Hey what's up guys.

i'm experiencing a weird problem on my maxima. Sometimes, it won't start when i turn the key. It does not happen all the time. actually it's somewhat rare.
at first i thought it was the ignition relay. i replaced it and it worked like a charm for two or three weeks.

Yesterday it failed again. After that i noticed a common patern, it only happens after driving long distances, about 20+ miles.
The firrst time happened after driving 17 miles. second time a few weeks after it happened after driving 15 miles. third time it happened yesterday after driving 128 miles. i also noticed that after i let it "cool down" it will start normaly.
i've never experienced the problem when turning the key after hours of not driving the car.

I can hear the three relays (blue ones next to the fuses) clicking all everytime i turn the key on. when it works i hear it clicking and it turns on just fine. when it doesn't work, all three click as well, but the car won't turn on.

Any ideas, opinions or solutions?

thanks in advance for the help

 

I'm not sure about the clicking, but it sounds like the same problem I had. Sometimes when I turned the key, the dash lights would all go on but the starter wouldn't turn. Took me months to figure out. See my posts 13 and 18: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post7075437

 

If you tried turning the key to Acc, and shifting it all the way up into Park and then start it, does it work? If not try it in Neutral and see if it starts right away. If neither method does not work, then it is definitely your ignition switch.

 

When you say it does not start, is the starter turning the engine over with no startup or is nothing but a few clicks of the relays is all that happens?
If your only getting a few clicks of the relays I would start by checking the signal to the starter. If you have a signal but the starter doesn't turn, then you need a new starter.
Another thing to check is the ignition switch as they are known to go bad on our cars. Sometimes even being temperature related.
IF the engine is turning over but will not fire, then you need to trouble shoot the ignition and fuel system. A Haynes shop manual will help you dig further into a no start condition. Some key items to check would be both crank position sensors and fuel pressure.

 

thanks a lot for the responses, i've had starter problems with other cars, and i don't think it's the starter itself, the clicks i hear come from the blue solenoids, not from the starter.
it has a new battery.
when it does start, it does it right away with no weird noises and no hesitation.

i'm having problems figuring this out because i have experience on the mechanical part of the car, but i have no clue what i'm doing when it comes to electronics lol.

i'm going to replace the ignition switch next and see if that helps. thank god is only 30 bucks lol

i'm going to try to started on a neutral position next time it happens.

 

small update...
it seems that is not always after driving for a long time, or distances.
today i drove to LA, and it turned on right afer i got there, i checked again when i got back home, and same thing...turned right away...

 

I've had similar issues with mine. First I need to make sure tha the transmission gear shifter is up against the PARK stop. If it doesn't start I push up on the gear lever to insure its against the PARK (sensor I presume). The other issue was slight corrosion on the battery terminals prevented restarts when engine was hot, no issues with a cold engine. Once the battery terminals were cleaned and the car fully in Park, no starting issues for me.

Good luck, it's sometimes hard to diagnose car problems that are electrical in nature.

 

the battery terminals are clean, and when i have the problem and i try several times, it starts without me moving the shifter...i'll try that next time though.

and i agree on the electrical problems being harder to figure out.
when something goes wrong on the engine bay, i can grab a compression tester, replace broken or worn parts, but i have no clue what to do when everything it's normal one moment and the next is not...

 

My 96 also had problems starting ...untill I replaced the ignition switch.

All the accessories would turn on but I got NOTHING it would take multiple times
to start it. if the starter doesnt turn and the engine doesn't even try crank then change the ignition switch. Especially if you have to wiggle the key to start it on hot days.

 

Electrically, the current to start the engine comes from the battery, goes through a 30 amp fuse to the ignition switch, to the inhibitor relay E61 and then to the starter solenoid.

The inhibitor relay is controlled by the theft warning relay E71, which sends 12 volts to the inhibitor relay. The neutral safety switch on the transmission shift lever grounds the inhibitor relay when in park or neutral positions.

However, I wouldn't rule out the starter itself. If you take one apart, you'll understand. The planetary gearset inside the starter needs to be kept well lubricated or it binds up.

 

If you have play between the key cylinder flange and the ignition switch, a new switch won't fix it. Take the ignition switch out of the column (takes about 10 minutes), and try starting the car with a key or screwdriver in the slot of the ignition switch. If it starts every time, you just need to shim up the slot with a piece of tape.

Just don't leave the ignition switch accessible like that. No point in helping out car thieves...

 

so i thought the ignition was startin to go out but i tapped on the starter solenoid and it fired up but the next morning no dice so i bought a starter anyway and put it on and nothing lol but then messed with the solenoid again and the wire that clips in and then it fired so i thought maybe i just didnt have it csnapped all the way in but then tried to crank again and nothing so then i banged on starter and still no so then i changed out the ignition switch even though i heard the "click" noise coming from the relays on the interior for panel so i figured there was current to them and sure enuf that wasnt the problem so then after checking the relays (clutch inhib/and start and the 3 blue ones inside the car i finally saw what it was....... the damn plug on the clutch pedal arm that depresses the switch and sends the signal to let it start all that time and money for a damn plug that i just replaced with a bolt and nut cant believe it ! but least i kno now and hope this helps some

 

Are you getting spark?

 

Remember it needs, Air, Fuel and Spark...so let's try to narrow it down!

 

had same prob. ignition switch replaced, problem solved.

 

Ok I tried starting a new thread but i wasn't allowed lol.

Please help me. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, all I get is 2 interior clicks. I already put in a new ignition switch but haven't tried shimming it with tape or anything.

HERES THE THING. When it's not starting, I can hold the key on the start position and smack the kick panel under the dash like below the steering wheel and it will start. Is there some kind of starter or ignition relay in there that I can replace??????? I already tried swapping the inhibitor and ignition relays under the hood and got nothing. thanks!!!!!!


Btw my car is a 96 5 speed

 

Describe what the car is doing in more detail.

As a general fix, u can try cleaning the TB, MAF, and grounds and see if that helps

 

The onlt hing that I can think of that is in the area that you are hitting is the ignition switch. Check the connector for the ignition switch. Is it securely plugged together? are any of the wires in either side of the connector backing out? Also remove the ignition switch and turn it with a screwdriver. That will tell you if you need to shim it or not.

 

Does it crank and not start, or no crank at all? Check your clutch inhibitor switch, it is in the general area underneath the steering comumn. There should also be a plastic button inserted into the pedal that the switch makes physical contact with.

 

I think that's right. You're probably making the guts of the ignition switch move just enough to make contact. When I had the problem, I discovered I could always get it to start by trying enough times, even if it took 15 or 20 tries. That's how close it was to being right. Get the switch exposed and use a screwdriver to start it. If it works consistently, your problem is the slop. Use tape, or cut a little piece of coke can to fit in the slot and crazy glue it in.

 

So you guys are telling me that none of the 3 blue relays next to the interior fuse panel have anything to do with ignition.... Do any of you actually know what you're doing lol

 

The FSM has full electrical diagrams showing the exact layout of those systems. I think the above posters explaining the chain of current are correct. My after market maintenance manual has those too.

 

Hey I have a similar problem with my Maxima, the only difference is that its the exact opposite from DR rabias. The car starts but none of the "electrical stuff" turns on (instrument panel, gauges, AC, power windows, blinkers, reverse lights).

this issue comes and goes during start up. if i were to drive the car when the "electrical stuff" is down it sometimes kicks back on after a few minutes of driving. also it has done the opposite, where it starts up just fine and im driving around then all of a sudden the "electrical stuff" cuts out. this problem has triggered the check engine light to come on as well. when i hooked up a reader to the car, it could not find any errors.

does anyone have an idea on how i can fix this ghost car?

 

What you describe is almost like when the main fusable link is blown. But fuses rarely become intermittent. What is more likely is that the buss bar in the underhood fuse panel is developing loose connections.