ECU switch
#1
ECU switch
Here's the deal. The adjustment/reset switch on my ECU broke off the other day. I now have no way to check codes or reset the ECU. I have taken it out, and looked into trying to repair it. However, the way it broke, you can't get any sort of decent solder connection. I am considering running some longer leads from the circuit board to a new switch. Problem is, I don't really know what the specs of that switch would be.
There are three wires that go into the switch. Even though the switch is a rotary one, there are really only two positions - run and diagnostic mode. Could I get away with just putting a two position switch in there?
I really don't want to shell out the money for a new ECU (not until I really screw this one up!!).
Thanks for any ideas...
There are three wires that go into the switch. Even though the switch is a rotary one, there are really only two positions - run and diagnostic mode. Could I get away with just putting a two position switch in there?
I really don't want to shell out the money for a new ECU (not until I really screw this one up!!).
Thanks for any ideas...
#3
Problem solved!!
Well, being the impatient one that I am, I went for it. Some 24 Guage Bus wire, shrinkwrap, and a two way toggle switch, and I am back in business.
Went in easy, and it worked. Now checking engine codes is as easy as flipping a switch.
I figure if my $6 dollar fix doesn't last forever, at least I had some fun with it!!
Went in easy, and it worked. Now checking engine codes is as easy as flipping a switch.
I figure if my $6 dollar fix doesn't last forever, at least I had some fun with it!!
#5
I may do a write up, but first I am going to drive it around for a while to make sure it continues to work.
I found that the screw was always pretty touchy, and from the looks of it, pretty easy to strip. I had only used mine a couple of times before it broke off, and it is pretty messed up.
I will try and get some pictures posted at some point as well.
I found that the screw was always pretty touchy, and from the looks of it, pretty easy to strip. I had only used mine a couple of times before it broke off, and it is pretty messed up.
I will try and get some pictures posted at some point as well.
#6
Originally posted by Eric99SE
I may do a write up, but first I am going to drive it around for a while to make sure it continues to work.
I found that the screw was always pretty touchy, and from the looks of it, pretty easy to strip. I had only used mine a couple of times before it broke off, and it is pretty messed up.
I will try and get some pictures posted at some point as well.
I may do a write up, but first I am going to drive it around for a while to make sure it continues to work.
I found that the screw was always pretty touchy, and from the looks of it, pretty easy to strip. I had only used mine a couple of times before it broke off, and it is pretty messed up.
I will try and get some pictures posted at some point as well.
#7
Originally posted by ejj5875
This could be really useful for those of us who trip the CEL often...where did you wire this switch to? Is there a connector exposed on the ECU that you can use, or did you have to take the RESET screw out?
This could be really useful for those of us who trip the CEL often...where did you wire this switch to? Is there a connector exposed on the ECU that you can use, or did you have to take the RESET screw out?
Anyway, I wedged a piece of 24 guage bus wire down next to each lead, soldered and shrink wrapped it. Then ran the three wires out the hole where you normally put the screwdriver in to adjust it. I then ran the wires to a small toggle switch, making sure that the middle wire from the board (ground I assume) went to the ground of the switch. I then just mounted the switch on the outside of the ECU. That way I just half to pull off the kick plate and flip the switch.
So far so good...
#8
Originally posted by Eric99SE
When the reset screw switch broke off, what remained was a plastic spacer that supports the three wires that go down to the circuit board. (A picture would really help here...)
Anyway, I wedged a piece of 24 guage bus wire down next to each lead, soldered and shrink wrapped it. Then ran the three wires out the hole where you normally put the screwdriver in to adjust it. I then ran the wires to a small toggle switch, making sure that the middle wire from the board (ground I assume) went to the ground of the switch. I then just mounted the switch on the outside of the ECU. That way I just half to pull off the kick plate and flip the switch.
So far so good...
When the reset screw switch broke off, what remained was a plastic spacer that supports the three wires that go down to the circuit board. (A picture would really help here...)
Anyway, I wedged a piece of 24 guage bus wire down next to each lead, soldered and shrink wrapped it. Then ran the three wires out the hole where you normally put the screwdriver in to adjust it. I then ran the wires to a small toggle switch, making sure that the middle wire from the board (ground I assume) went to the ground of the switch. I then just mounted the switch on the outside of the ECU. That way I just half to pull off the kick plate and flip the switch.
So far so good...
#9
Originally posted by ejj5875
Wonderful idea. Can you take the RESET screw out without breaking it?
Wonderful idea. Can you take the RESET screw out without breaking it?
Seriously though, I have no idea. Since mine broke pretty easily, I imagine you could do it. Just open it up and have a look..
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3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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09-29-2015 02:02 PM