preludexl

I didnt pass smog. Have P0325 and P0440 codes diagnosed by Autozone. They wouldnt reset my code. I can buy a OBDII tool from the store and reset the code myself, is that the same as doing it by turning the screw on the ECU?

I asked this guy who is supposed to know some things about cars and he told me that he resets his 96 civic by unplugging the battery, driving 25 miles so the computer resets and then smogging.

You guys think this is a short term fix?

I want to get a knock sensor from Meyer's but it's $65 versus a cheapy one from ebay. I am not sure if that is the problem or not.

Then I was going to follow the directions below to clean out the evap cannister.

Is the vent valve the piece that connects to the cannister that's held by 2 screws?

TIA. My temporary registration (10 day) ends tomorrow and no more after that.


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P0440 and/or P1448

The P0440 is a generic EVAP system leak. The P1448 is a manufacturer specific code for the charcoal canister vent valve stuck open. The charcoal canister is located behind the left rear tire. It's a largish black box with a few hoses running to it.

First, check all of these hoses to make sure none or torn or otherwise damaged. If they check out, disconnect these hoses and the electrical connection with a pair of pliers. Then, remove the three screws that hold the box to the car, then push the rear bracket out of the way to remove it. With the box out, take off the two screws that hold the purge valve to the box. It takes a bit of force to remove the valve even with the screws out. Be firm, but don't break it.

Next, take some brake cleaner and spray through one of the holes so it flows out the other. Hose it for a good 10 seconds or so, then spray some silicone spray through it to lubricate it. Install the valve back on the box, put the box back in the car and reconnect the hoses and wire connector.

With the car back together, clear the codes on the ECU and you should be good. If this doesn't work, double check all the lines in that area and if all else fails, you might need a new canister vent valve. You should be able to test the valve by applying 12 volts to the two terminals. A replacement valve runs about $120 from a dealer, so do your best to fix your old one first.
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98MaximaDriver

iTrader: (8)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHbZwil1lMo

Might help..

Oh and knock sensor wont trigger the cel

I grabbed a 20$ knock sensor of ebay and fixed mine..

You can reset the cel on the ecu with the screw but you cant smog it right away because you need to drive it for a period of time at certain miles per hour ..

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

You will have to fix the codes to pass emissions. Even if you cleared it, the knock sensor code will not go away and if you have a 96 and up, you will fail..

ken85

iTrader: (1)

Knock sensor won't trigger the cel? That is why my cel is on.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

You read his post correct. Never will you get a CEL light for a bad knock sensor. You will get a code known as a "ghost" code for a knock sensor but no CEL.

preludexl

You are right. I drove it 106 miles for 1.5 hours last night, light didnt come on. But it still didnt pass smog. They said the "readiness codes" are still there. I will have to drive it some more under different conditions until the light comes back on.

They told me it was probably due to my friend taking apart the fuel injectors, air intake, while looking for fuel leaks. The codes were for :OBD Catalyst, OBD Evap, and OBD Exhst gas.

Friend of mine who is familair with Nissans told me that I will need to figure out how to clear the readiness codes before I can pass smog. It wasn't due to my other friend taking apart the fuel injector cover or the air intake box while trying to get to it. He said the catalyst code might be due to a O2 sensor or the temperature wasn't warmed enough when I took it in.

So, I don't know if I should even bother to try to replace the knock sensor or not just to count that out as a possibility.

blazer23

$8 fix, go to a hardware store and get a quart of denatured alcohol, and mix with 1/2 tank of gas--- passes with flying colors by leaning out the gas and making it burn off all the hydrocarbons and co2 emmissions

98MaximaDriver

iTrader: (8)

ITS NOT THE KNOCK SENSOR!!

On a previous maxima i had the evap code and a knock sensor code... The evap canister control valve was stuck and i had to do the WD40 thing.. It works!! Valve got unstuck and code cleared.. in my case the knock sensor was bad too but the knock sensor will not trigger the cel!!!!

Its a ghost code when other stuff is bad.. fix all the other stuff and then check your knock sensor..

Even if your knock sensor is BAD it WONT trigger the CEL.. so knock sensor is low priority in your case!



At one point i was in a position like you and i actually cleared the cel light and the drove around until the readiness monitor cleared and then i got it smogged .. but like 15 minutes after i passed smog the cel light came back on! LOL (close call)

I drove it for about 45-60 minutes to clear the readiness monitors!! A mixture of city and freeway driving!!! ( check the pic!!)

It was before i knew the problem i had was fixable with a can on WD40~
haha

I thought the knock sensor was a big deal too!! Some turd quoted me $1200 cause he said you had to take off the UIM!!

I got the knock sensor off ebay for $20 and put it on in like 20-30min!!



Dam i miss that maxima! I got another one now .. but oh the memories!! lolz