Cam, Crank and Crank Ref Resistnce Measuring, Help.
06-12-2011, 07:48 PM
#1
Cam, Crank and Crank Ref Resistnce Measuring, Help.
Hey all,
I've searching high and low without much success. I'd like to test out my cam,crank and crank ref sensors by measuring there resistance values.
Cam:
- 1440 to 1760 at 68 degree F for a Hitachi model, or
- 2090 to 2550 at 68 degree F for a Mitsubishi model.
Crank:???
Crank Ref:???
I've searching high and low without much success. I'd like to test out my cam,crank and crank ref sensors by measuring there resistance values.
Cam:
- 1440 to 1760 at 68 degree F for a Hitachi model, or
- 2090 to 2550 at 68 degree F for a Mitsubishi model.
Crank:???
Crank Ref:???
06-12-2011, 08:12 PM
#2
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2000.5_Maxima/ec.pdf : I use the 00-01 pdf's cuz they are interactive; same info for most things.
EC397 is how you test the Crank POS
Crank ref is at 470 - 570 ohms at 68 degrees. (EC 600)
EC397 is how you test the Crank POS
Crank ref is at 470 - 570 ohms at 68 degrees. (EC 600)
06-13-2011, 09:05 AM
#4
Well my Crank POS sensor is measuring 1.77v at idle and 1.78 at 2000rpm. Should be 2.4v at idle and 2.3v at 2000rpm. Kinda seems like a short but I checked for continuity at the EU plug in with reference to ground.
Can anyone confirm the voltage on Pin#33 GY/W on the Emanage Harness?
Can anyone confirm the voltage on Pin#33 GY/W on the Emanage Harness?
Last edited by OC_Nooby; 06-13-2011 at 09:17 AM.
06-14-2011, 08:59 AM
#7
If you can wait until this afternoon, I can check for you. How will I be receiving my reward?
[EDIT] I get 2.4 volts at idle and 2.3 volts at 2000 rpm between pin 33 of my EU and ground. Now where's my kiss?
[EDIT] I get 2.4 volts at idle and 2.3 volts at 2000 rpm between pin 33 of my EU and ground. Now where's my kiss?
Last edited by ajm8127; 06-14-2011 at 02:09 PM.
06-14-2011, 02:16 PM
#8
OC_Nooby Sends a Kiss to his new BFF ajm8127
Homo intended
06-14-2011, 02:18 PM
#9
But honestly, if you really measured and this is what you got I appreciate it very much. That means I have an issue with my wires as I tried 4 different Cam POS sensors with all the same voltage readings. 
06-14-2011, 03:11 PM
#10
I'm totally going to add you to my maxima.org friends list. 
What did that waveform look like on the scope? Was it clean with just the amplitude reduced? Have you tried taking the EU out of the equation? Also if there is resistance between the sensor's ground terminal and the ECU (or whatever you used for ground the read the signal), that will cause problems. Make sure the sensor's ground has no resistance to a known good ground, like the negative battery terminal. Looks like the sensor actually receives power too. Make sure that's battery voltage. It should have no resistance to ECU pins 67 and 72.
Talk to you tomorrow
What did that waveform look like on the scope? Was it clean with just the amplitude reduced? Have you tried taking the EU out of the equation? Also if there is resistance between the sensor's ground terminal and the ECU (or whatever you used for ground the read the signal), that will cause problems. Make sure the sensor's ground has no resistance to a known good ground, like the negative battery terminal. Looks like the sensor actually receives power too. Make sure that's battery voltage. It should have no resistance to ECU pins 67 and 72.
Talk to you tomorrow
06-14-2011, 03:44 PM
#11
I'm totally going to add you to my maxima.org friends list.
What did that waveform look like on the scope? Was it clean with just the amplitude reduced? Have you tried taking the EU out of the equation? Also if there is resistance between the sensor's ground terminal and the ECU (or whatever you used for ground the read the signal), that will cause problems. Make sure the sensor's ground has no resistance to a known good ground, like the negative battery terminal. Looks like the sensor actually receives power too. Make sure that's battery voltage. It should have no resistance to ECU pins 67 and 72.
Talk to you tomorrow
What did that waveform look like on the scope? Was it clean with just the amplitude reduced? Have you tried taking the EU out of the equation? Also if there is resistance between the sensor's ground terminal and the ECU (or whatever you used for ground the read the signal), that will cause problems. Make sure the sensor's ground has no resistance to a known good ground, like the negative battery terminal. Looks like the sensor actually receives power too. Make sure that's battery voltage. It should have no resistance to ECU pins 67 and 72.
Talk to you tomorrow
I also tried 4 different crank POS sensors...don't ask why I have so many hahaha. They all gave the same results. Before I rewire tomorrow to check if thats the issue I'm going to add a ground right on top of the sensor to see if it improves the signal strength.
Thanks for the additional info ajm8127.
06-15-2011, 07:57 AM
#12
CRAP, ****!
If I disconnect the damn EU the car fires up like a dream! Also the Crank POS wire gets the proper voltage. If I cut the wire it gets the proper voltage while the EU is attached. What the hell! Why is the EU pulling so much voltage?!
If I disconnect the damn EU the car fires up like a dream! Also the Crank POS wire gets the proper voltage. If I cut the wire it gets the proper voltage while the EU is attached. What the hell! Why is the EU pulling so much voltage?!
06-15-2011, 08:05 AM
#14
Hey ajm8127 by any chance do you have the resistors wired into your EU ignition coils?
Update: Installed resistors into the coil pack. Getting 1.84v on Pin#33 Grey/White stripe. Since I made a patch harness I cut pin33 and measure 2.5v from the ECU, when I put it back together I get 1.84v. The EU just taps into this so why the hell is it sinking so much voltage????
Also worth noting that while pin #33 was not connected to the EU I did read about 0.22v, while the ECU side reads 2.5v
Like I said before with the damn EU out of the equation the car fired up so nicely!!!
Update: Installed resistors into the coil pack. Getting 1.84v on Pin#33 Grey/White stripe. Since I made a patch harness I cut pin33 and measure 2.5v from the ECU, when I put it back together I get 1.84v. The EU just taps into this so why the hell is it sinking so much voltage????
Also worth noting that while pin #33 was not connected to the EU I did read about 0.22v, while the ECU side reads 2.5v
Like I said before with the damn EU out of the equation the car fired up so nicely!!!
Last edited by OC_Nooby; 06-15-2011 at 09:48 AM.
06-16-2011, 05:59 AM
#16
06-17-2011, 03:38 PM
#17
I don't have a fix yet. Basically the Emanage Ultimate wire Pin#33 Grey/White is supposed to be a tap to the crank POS sensor which is shared with the ECU. When you tap the Emanage to “said” wire the voltage is dropped from 2.4v to 1.8v (roughly). This is not good. So I disconnected the wire from the Emanage side which brought me to another problem. My tack reading with the Emanage died. So I used the brown wire from the Emanage (rpm wire) and tapped it into the White/green stripe wire on the ECU which is the tach signal. You have to go into the Emanage settings and change where the RPM signal is being read from. We have it set to Crank Angle as per DandyMax. I just changed it to RPM_Signal from the drop down menu and now I have RPM in the Emanage data logger. Though I don't see any timing (stuck at 121°). I also now have to retune due to the false reading of timing on the Emanage side.
What we tried to do:
To fix this issue we tried to put a buffer in between both circuits so that the Emanage did not leach of the voltage signal from the ECU. This worked to a certain extent as it stopped the voltage drop on the ECU side from the Crank POS sensor but on the Emanage side the problem still existed. This caused weird timing readings and no rpm signal.
Conclusion:
This issue is within the Emanage and I bet who ever reads 1.7v to 1.84v on Pin#33 Crank POS has an issue with the Emanage. This is why some people claim that there timing is not correct at idle. Also worth noting that the same people will have random bucking whether it be slight or extreme as the Emanage could further degrade the signal strength of the crank POS sensor and if the sensor goes below a certain level the ignition coils will lose there spark.
That’s a mouth full. All IMO. That’s what I’m getting from all this experimenting. Cause really... think about it, we are just tapping into the main signal. Why on gods green earth would we want to degrade the signal specially when the ECU is reading it! At this point id like to say this. Everything I bought used on my car has F uck ed up. I don’t understand how people live with themselves when they sell junk to others… I’ll prolly live with the damn Emanage and not have any timing controls until I get this issue fixed, IE debug. I’ll send a signal through the Emanage and trace it…Ohh well.
What we tried to do:
To fix this issue we tried to put a buffer in between both circuits so that the Emanage did not leach of the voltage signal from the ECU. This worked to a certain extent as it stopped the voltage drop on the ECU side from the Crank POS sensor but on the Emanage side the problem still existed. This caused weird timing readings and no rpm signal.
Conclusion:
This issue is within the Emanage and I bet who ever reads 1.7v to 1.84v on Pin#33 Crank POS has an issue with the Emanage. This is why some people claim that there timing is not correct at idle. Also worth noting that the same people will have random bucking whether it be slight or extreme as the Emanage could further degrade the signal strength of the crank POS sensor and if the sensor goes below a certain level the ignition coils will lose there spark.
That’s a mouth full. All IMO. That’s what I’m getting from all this experimenting. Cause really... think about it, we are just tapping into the main signal. Why on gods green earth would we want to degrade the signal specially when the ECU is reading it! At this point id like to say this. Everything I bought used on my car has F uck ed up. I don’t understand how people live with themselves when they sell junk to others… I’ll prolly live with the damn Emanage and not have any timing controls until I get this issue fixed, IE debug. I’ll send a signal through the Emanage and trace it…Ohh well.
Last edited by OC_Nooby; 06-17-2011 at 04:07 PM.
06-17-2011, 04:25 PM
#21
^^ ottaawaaaa!!....did you try a different ground while poking the grey/white guy. I get between 2-2.1 grounding off the door latch (I'll try another point later), and 1.8ish using the EU ground - no resistors. I'm going to reground my WB (currently on the EU) to see if it solves that intermittent 'dimming' issue I get on the guage now that its confirmed that that ground bites.
Also, FWIW I've had a minor stumbling issue in every combination of Fidanza/OEM/EU/no EU - but afai can tell it's all been post-00VI sans power rod - the fidanza just seemed to amplify it - which seems obvious now that I've got the OEM fly back in.
Also, FWIW I've had a minor stumbling issue in every combination of Fidanza/OEM/EU/no EU - but afai can tell it's all been post-00VI sans power rod - the fidanza just seemed to amplify it - which seems obvious now that I've got the OEM fly back in.
06-17-2011, 06:32 PM
#22
I believe the issue has been fixed. We used a tri-state buffer. So basically the input of the buffer gets the Crank POS sensor and the output goes to the Emanage. This stops the ECU from getting loaded and is now reading 2.2v at the ECU and 2.3v at the Emanage side. I don't lose my RPM signal so its definitely working (rpm signal is acquired via crank angle). I just have to give it a little test drive and i'll will report back with some good news hopefully!!! Going to the track tomorrow aswell!!!!!!
Last edited by OC_Nooby; 06-17-2011 at 06:35 PM.
06-19-2011, 08:09 AM
#25
Timing at idle is still showing 5 degrees, the car starts better and hasn't stumbled at me while trying to fire up the car. I still have bucking issue at the 1/4 mile. Thats related to fuel though. I can't lean out my injectors. I'm going to start a new thread regarding this.
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