I made it from scratch. I was going to order one but they were 45$ and up.

I went to homedepot and got some 7 feet of 8 gauge wire and some gold terminals from autozone, used some sandpaper on the rust spots and followed the guide on vq power http://www.vqpower.comut /v2/news.php?readmore=136 for the install and this guide http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/groundwire/ on how to make the wires.

I haven't started the car up yet but when I opened the door my courtesy lights were hurting my eyes. They are so much brighter.

All parts cost around 10-15$ I believe. 1 day ago I didn't know what grounding a car was today I installed 4 new ones on top of the factory ones. Defiatly reccomend for those with hard starts, dim lights and slow moving power windows.

What inspired me to do this was my thread http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-progress.html about my car not starting back up and looking for causes. Grounding was one of the issues I read about.

 

I am going to do this also. Have any pics of it car?

 

Well I it's night time here in Colorado so I put it in the car in the dark with my light that I wear on my head and another handheld flashlight. I will try and get some pics or possibly a video if I have time. I can't believe how great this works. I'm going to go for a drive in a bit and will report on that also.

 

Awesome. I have heard that the car windows will work better as well as the distance of the home link improves.

 

I think it made a difference when i did mine. Glad you made it yourself. Rather then spending 50$ plus for a kit

 

Gonna have to try this out in my car

 

I agree with things seems to work alittle better after installing more/better grounds. I went to walmart and bought a 19 inch and a 29 inch long ground cable from the auto section and a new lead negative battery terminal connector. Went home, cut the stock connector off, striped insulation back about half of an inch and installed the new connector. The connector is the one with 2 bolts and nuts that clamp the bare copper wire, so i just attached one end of the 19 inch cable under one of the clamp bolts of the connector. I ran it to the bolt that mounts the auto transmission resister on the inner fender well. From there I also attached the 29 inch cable (all sandwiched under the bolt) and ran the final grounding point to a bolt on top of the upper intake manifold that holds a bracket. I forgot which bracket, but everything seems to work better.

Here's the hookup in a nutshell: battery to original grounding points untouched. Battery to inner fender well using transmission resister mounting bolt, then finally to an upper intake bracket bolt. simple.

Cost: less than $12.00

 

walmart 24 inch battery cable 4.50 each! molded terminals less than $20 and your good did mine today took 30 min n bam all lights are way brighter esp headlights n fogs! all systems seem to work better!

 

just throwing this out there, here is the corrected link from the OP. That one up there doesnt work. Will be trying this out this weekend. my lights dim when the AC engages.

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/news.php?readmore=136

 

Does it have to be 8 gauge or any?

 

nice ill do my own ground kit

 

I think using star washers would help, as well as thoroughly cleaning the existing grounding points of any corrosion or aged metal, then once thru spray each area with paint to protect your new grounding points from weather, the elements and father time!

 

i did 0-gauge for my own kit......i even did 0-gauge wires for my battery terminals i gotta tell you its great

 

I bought all the things to do this last night at THD. I got 4 AWG copper wiring as well as some heavy duty copper crimp terminals. The continuity between my CPS and ground wasn't steady and fluctuating when grounded to the engine so I will be finishing this project this afternoon and hopefully my damn car will start up.

PRAISE BE TO YEVON!

 

hmmm very interesting, not having a problem with starting, but it wouldnt hurt to do it..i will look into doing the same also..

 

Did mine the other day, all I did was waste the money. Had ZERO change in anything. Headlights still dim when pressing the brake, windows still go up the same as they did before. I was hoping to at least fix the headlight dimming issue when braking. Did...exactly as shown in this link http://www.vqpower.com/v2/news.php?readmore=136 plus battery to throttle body. No change in anything = me not happy.

 

yea i did 2 gauge and 0 gauge

 

Side note...I ran the car today without the blower running and heard this strange ticking that i've never heard before, almost like lifters ticking (plenty of oil too). Did some (major) searching and seems some people have also heard this ticking after installing their grounding kit: specifically the ground from the intake manifold to the firewall and that by removing this ground, the ticking was eliminated. Since i had no gains from the kit anyway, I am going to remove the whole thing today and see if that was my problem. Will edit my post with results.

EDIT: Ok, I just took that one ground off, Intake Manifold to Firewall, and the ticking i heard inside the car is gone. Sounds just like it did before i put the kit on. So, I guess if you are hearing a NEW ticking after installing a grounding kit, check/remove this ground first. Can anyone explain why this would happen? All i can think of is that the large ground wire is amplifying the normal sounds from the engine and transfering it to the firewall, AKA closer to the driver, making you hear it inside the car.

EDIT AGAIN GRRRR : Drove the car tonight to work and still heard the ticking, although it was not as noticable. I will be removing the whole damn thing here shortly.

EDIT FOR THE FINAL TIME: Took the whole damn grounding kit off and BINGO, NO more ticking. No ticking when I pop the hood and listen, no ticking inside the car. Don't know why the grounding kit was causing the ticking, but it was i guess.

 

i have done my grounding kit today. also homemade. havent started it yet. but i hope that im not hears that ticking. cause then it have to be ripped off.

 

the path of least resistance will be taken and using thin gauge wire is a bad idea. Ground to the frame

 

whens the last time your altenator was changed? that could very well be a factor, cuz i have been inside Jonblz^^^^ 5.5 max with the ground kit and im telling you, his windows close up so fast and his sunroof too! also check for bad grounds in the engine bay.

 

No idea when the alternator was last done...I've only owned it for about 6 months. I sanded all the grounds when I installed the kit. Also, if you haven't already, see my post #18 for the other problem I was having. I have removed the whole kit due to the reason in post 18 and the fact that it did nothing. I am mot having any charging issues so I dont think the alternator can be bad...but its possible I guess.

 

does anyone have pics of where these grounding points are?

 

my lights are dimming also i need to do this

 

Wth?! ticking lol that is F'in weird bro! idk my lights were like regular, when oil spilled on my altenator and fried it we installed the new one, the lights in the car were so bright, the courtesy door lights were blinding my eyes!

 

Yup, ticking...I kid you not! As soon as I took the kit off, all was well. Heard some people in the 5th gen world having the same problem with their grounding kit and they took it off, no ticking.

 

great wright up, ill have to invest in some copper wire

 

well its quite possible for it to be the alt, being that your lights dim when you hit the brakes, and when my buddies went out it was ticking, what might be a thing is with the grounding kit you alt has to work more because stuff is grounded better, and that might be why your hearing it with the grounding kit, but your lights shouldnt dim when you kit the brakes so there is an exsiting issuse that the grounding kit is amplifying..

hope you understand what im trying to get at it. im having a hard time trying to explain what i am trying to mean

 

my buddies noise form his alt almost reminds you of valves or timing chain types of noise

 

Nope, I certainly did not take that the wrong way. I figured the grounding kit had to be amplifying SOMETHING cause I could only hear it inside the car and while under load. I popped the hood with the kit on the see if i could isolate the noise inside the engine bay, but could not hear it anywhere. It makes sense that it may be the alternator since i was ONLY hearing it under load, but not when I pop the hood and rev the engine?? On a side note, battery tests good and no starting issues at all so IMO, if the alternator ain't broke yet, don't fix it until it leaves me stranded Thanks for your advice too!! Maybe i'll get the alternator tested just to see if thats whats up.

 

update?

 

now ive also installed a grounding kit and i cant feel any difrence. so it is gonna come off here.

 

i need to do this. i have a 1200w fosgate amp and alpine 10 plus a radar detector, sirious radio and gps and quad retro. things get slow and dim.

 

get a capaciter and it wont happen anymore, thats what i did

 

Any pics?