95 bleeding the radiator ?
#1
95 bleeding the radiator ?
ok heres the deal. I had a major crack on my radiator today coolant every where. I went an bought a brand new radiator and thermostat and 50/50 coolant and new rad cap did the swap and attempted to bleed the system. I.E. cap off heat on full blast engine at idle.
now the car just over heats bottom hose is cool top hose hotter then fire cooling fans start off slow then go full blast as the temp rises as they should and both are running i know there is air in the system my question is how do i get it out??
I cant leave the cap off for more than 5 mins before it starts shootin out the top of the radiator and i mean shootin out i know some cars have a air bleed screw to let the air out the system but im pretty sure these dont
any help would be greatly appreciated
now the car just over heats bottom hose is cool top hose hotter then fire cooling fans start off slow then go full blast as the temp rises as they should and both are running i know there is air in the system my question is how do i get it out??
I cant leave the cap off for more than 5 mins before it starts shootin out the top of the radiator and i mean shootin out i know some cars have a air bleed screw to let the air out the system but im pretty sure these dont
any help would be greatly appreciated
#2
Are you saying the car is overheating or just the hose is really hot? Reason I ask is if the car is actually overheating you could have a broken/stuck thermostat (IIRC, coolant shouldn't shoot out of the radiator with the cap off from cold unless it's getting far too hot, improper flow through the engine would cause this since it's not circulating in enough fresh coolant from the radiator).
It just sounds too much like a stuck/broken thermostat to me, especially if it's showing high temps on the dash since that's on the side where the coolant leaves the engine IIRC... if your thermostat is good you'll see the temps go no further than the half-way mark on the dash when idling since it'll open up fully around that point to allow coolant to freely enter the engine.
For the record I use the same method as you.
It just sounds too much like a stuck/broken thermostat to me, especially if it's showing high temps on the dash since that's on the side where the coolant leaves the engine IIRC... if your thermostat is good you'll see the temps go no further than the half-way mark on the dash when idling since it'll open up fully around that point to allow coolant to freely enter the engine.
For the record I use the same method as you.
Last edited by BenL; 12-24-2011 at 06:23 PM.
#3
Are you saying the car is overheating or just the hose is really hot? Reason I ask is if the car is actually overheating you could have a broken/stuck thermostat (IIRC, coolant shouldn't shoot out of the radiator with the cap off from cold unless it's getting far too hot, improper flow through the engine would cause this since it's not circulating in enough fresh coolant from the radiator).
It just sounds too much like a stuck/broken thermostat to me, especially if it's showing high temps on the dash since that's on the side where the coolant leaves the engine IIRC... if your thermostat is good you'll see the temps go no further than the half-way mark on the dash when idling since it'll open up fully around that point to allow coolant to freely enter the engine.
For the record I use the same method as you.
It just sounds too much like a stuck/broken thermostat to me, especially if it's showing high temps on the dash since that's on the side where the coolant leaves the engine IIRC... if your thermostat is good you'll see the temps go no further than the half-way mark on the dash when idling since it'll open up fully around that point to allow coolant to freely enter the engine.
For the record I use the same method as you.
#5
You could try getting the front end of the cat up higher, like parking up hill or driving it up on some car ramps. Don't fill the radiator up to the top, leave the upper tank half empty. If there is air coming out of the engine, a full radiator will bubble over.
#9
Can't stress this enough... I've always tested thermostats in hot water (200F or so) before removal of the old... if they don't open up fully you just saved yourself some money and hassle.
#10
The max needs to have the front wheels off the ground and pretty high in the air to get all the air out and are you sure you didn't install the t-stat backwards
Last edited by maxed_out_99; 02-05-2012 at 01:10 PM.
#13
I am in the middle of replacing my thermostat and quite possibly my water pump too. Can I ask how you bled the coolant to get the air out? Lots of people say to just run the car without the cap on, but I was wondering if there was a bleed screw somewhere or something?
#14
I just ran the car with the cap off until the thermostat opened up and the upper radiator hose was hot. There is no bleed valve.
#16
Your upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch, and if you look into the radiator filler neck you will see the coolant circulating. After that just put your cap on and you're good to go.
Last edited by boneebone; 02-03-2012 at 06:10 AM.
#17
blast the heat on high, pop the cap and watch your temp rise. you can get one of those things that you put in place of the cap so it won't be a messy job, and you can add coolant thru it as well. forgot what it was called though.
don't mix coolant with tap water, btw - only distilled.
don't mix coolant with tap water, btw - only distilled.
#18
#19
Get a 2 liter plastic bottle and cut the bottom off and removed the radiator cap and stick the bottle in the radiator and fill about halfway up the bottle to make it the highest point of the system and it'll bleed aal your the bubbles out!
#20
yo cash i got it bled the radiator just cracked i also did the thermo while i was at it
#22
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