NEED HELP!!! Car wont rev past 2500rpms
#1
NEED HELP!!! Car wont rev past 2500rpms
Ok i am brain dead... My car has been running good with no problems until recently i took of the VAFC2 and now the car wont rev past 2500 rpms I tried reseting the ecu and it didnt help....any advice or help will be greatly appreciated.. This is my daily and i need it for tomorrow...Thanks in advance...
#5
The MAF sensor must of noticed some moisture and put the car into a safe mode. The exact same thing happened to me on new years. The MAF would probably need to be replaced to solve that problem.
But you should still try to get a code read out. I lost the acceleration but the car hasn't done it since I cleaned it with the MAF sensor cleaner. Service engine soon light is on so i'm waiting for the spring to come before I replace it. Good luck
But you should still try to get a code read out. I lost the acceleration but the car hasn't done it since I cleaned it with the MAF sensor cleaner. Service engine soon light is on so i'm waiting for the spring to come before I replace it. Good luck
#6
OP, first get the code. I'm pretty sure it's your MAF. Try cleaning it first with CRC MAF cleaner. If that doesn't solve it, you need a new MAF.
Use your scanner to reset the ECU. That code shouldn't come back.
Use your scanner to reset the ECU. That code shouldn't come back.
#7
Ok heres the deal.. i ve had the vafc2 on the car for about 6 months and it ran fine...have had no problems but as soon as i take off the vafc it wont rev past 2500RPMS...When the car was running i took the plug off the MAF sensor and it stayed the same.... Why would the MAF go out when it was good before i took of the VAFC??? The only reason i think its the MAF is because while the car was running i unplugged the MAF and there was no change????
Last edited by drkblumaxima; 01-15-2012 at 05:35 PM.
#8
I did clear the code 3 times but it came back as soon as I drove a little so I'm assuming the MAF sensor is defective and sending the moisture code. It haven't lost the acceleration since I cleaned it but when I clear the code it comes right back
#9
Ok heres the deal.. i ve had the vafc2 on the car for about 6 months and it ran fine...have had no problems but as soon as i take off the vafc it wont rev past 2500RPMS...When the car was running i took the plug off the MAF sensor and it stayed the same.... Why would the MAF go out when it was good before i took of the VAFC??? The only reason i think its the MAF is because while the car was running i unplugged the MAF and there was no change????
as stated its the MAF.
#11
Ok so the MAF isnt the problem...i changed it out with a good one and nothing... I am thinking maybe the ecu kept something from the vafc2 and it needs to be reinstalled to fix what ever is going on in the ecu....
#12
Did you use the code reader and cleared the code man? If yes then I suggest you get the code read out and then go from there.
#13
#16
Ok so i reset the ecu and it didnt get rid of the problem...I dont believe its the wiring although i can remove the wiring completly form the ecu to make sure... I installed the vafc back on and still nothing...it still revs to 2500rpms....
Ok so what about this...A couple of months ago i got a CEL light on and it said that the EGR valve was clogged.... Would the EGR valve being clogged cause the car to go into limp mode???
Ok so what about this...A couple of months ago i got a CEL light on and it said that the EGR valve was clogged.... Would the EGR valve being clogged cause the car to go into limp mode???
#17
#18
I had my Max go into limp mode when I was about 70 miles from home back in 06. That was a long ride home but I cleaned the MAF and never had the problem again. The day it went into limp mode, it was raining like mad and I was getting a lot of spray from other cars in front of me.
#19
Ok so lets get this narrowed down why its in limp mode
*The MAF sensor is bad- Swapped it out with my other maxima and NO difference
*Wiring problem with unmounted vafc-Never had any problems with it before so why now when its unmounted??
* The ecu needs to be reset after taking of vafc- Reset the ECU and have no codes now....
What else causes limp mode???
Well i know alot are going to agree with this but i guess i am going to have to drive my turbo maxima as my daily for now....lol BUT besides that point i do need to fix my daily
*The MAF sensor is bad- Swapped it out with my other maxima and NO difference
*Wiring problem with unmounted vafc-Never had any problems with it before so why now when its unmounted??
* The ecu needs to be reset after taking of vafc- Reset the ECU and have no codes now....
What else causes limp mode???
Well i know alot are going to agree with this but i guess i am going to have to drive my turbo maxima as my daily for now....lol BUT besides that point i do need to fix my daily
#23
You sir just solved it for me!!!! I give you 5 fcking thumbs up!!!! what the problem has to be is when you hook a vafc up to your car you cut the MAF wire that runs to the ecu and tie in the VAFC so it can adjust the MAF readings....so i have to connect that wire back together when i get home tonight and hope that fixes the problem
#27
You sir just solved it for me!!!! I give you 5 fcking thumbs up!!!! what the problem has to be is when you hook a vafc up to your car you cut the MAF wire that runs to the ecu and tie in the VAFC so it can adjust the MAF readings....so i have to connect that wire back together when i get home tonight and hope that fixes the problem
#29
If both your fans are coming on when you first start your car your ECTS is telling the ecu the engine is overheating putting it in limp mode.
#30
when i bought my s/c 4th gen it done the same thing .it had a vafc also but some one had stole it but the harness was still there the car would crank and idle fine but wouldnt rev like yours it. the ecu was not getting a signal to the ecu. where the vafc wires into the ecu i had to put the signal wire back together. i think it was white or white with red tracer.
#31
#34
#36
Ok I also have a Safe Mode problem... I bought a 98 Max 7 months ago.
I took my car to Pep Boys yesterday for an OiL Change. When I picked it up the car stalled a couple times. My car never stalled. Then when I left the lot I could not go past 2500 rpms ( I have a stick.) I had this happen to me before with my old 96 Max. I was able to get it out of Safe Mode with my other car by resetting the ECU. The 2nd time it happened (2 years later) resetting the ECU didn't work so I unhooked both battery cables and by the next day I was Out of Safe Mode. I tried to reset the ECU today but she's still in Safe Mode So I unhooked both battery cables and hopefully I will be ok in the morning. What do you think happened? I don't know what Pep Boys did but they had to do something. Otherwise it's awful coincidental. I got an Oil Change and they replaced the Air Filter.
My 2nd problem is this... As I mentioned I bought the car 7 months ago. About 4 months ago I overheated. Ever since then my car hesitates and bogs down when I accelerate. It's rides fairly smooth once I'm in 4th or 5th gear and I'm not giving her a lot of gas. I had a leak in the radiator so I replaced it and I haven't had an overheating problem since then. I know I probably did something to the engine but what could it be causing the car to hesitate when accelerating.
Side Note... I failed inspection (6 months ago) immediately cause my CEl was on. When I reset the ECU today the CEL disappear but then it appeared again blinking then it disappeared. I did jot drive long enough to see if it went on and stayed on.
When I failed inspection they pulled 3 codes:
0134, 0303, & 0325
Auto Zone pulled 0303 & 0134
Any suggestions? Primarily on why she went into Safe a mode after an OIl Change? I know some will suggest a new MAFs but how can a MAFs go bad after an Oil Change? Sounds strange... Plus I replaced the MAFS on my old Max and that wasn't the cure ( I know this is a different car.)
Thanks in advance for your help!
I took my car to Pep Boys yesterday for an OiL Change. When I picked it up the car stalled a couple times. My car never stalled. Then when I left the lot I could not go past 2500 rpms ( I have a stick.) I had this happen to me before with my old 96 Max. I was able to get it out of Safe Mode with my other car by resetting the ECU. The 2nd time it happened (2 years later) resetting the ECU didn't work so I unhooked both battery cables and by the next day I was Out of Safe Mode. I tried to reset the ECU today but she's still in Safe Mode So I unhooked both battery cables and hopefully I will be ok in the morning. What do you think happened? I don't know what Pep Boys did but they had to do something. Otherwise it's awful coincidental. I got an Oil Change and they replaced the Air Filter.
My 2nd problem is this... As I mentioned I bought the car 7 months ago. About 4 months ago I overheated. Ever since then my car hesitates and bogs down when I accelerate. It's rides fairly smooth once I'm in 4th or 5th gear and I'm not giving her a lot of gas. I had a leak in the radiator so I replaced it and I haven't had an overheating problem since then. I know I probably did something to the engine but what could it be causing the car to hesitate when accelerating.
Side Note... I failed inspection (6 months ago) immediately cause my CEl was on. When I reset the ECU today the CEL disappear but then it appeared again blinking then it disappeared. I did jot drive long enough to see if it went on and stayed on.
When I failed inspection they pulled 3 codes:
0134, 0303, & 0325
Auto Zone pulled 0303 & 0134
Any suggestions? Primarily on why she went into Safe a mode after an OIl Change? I know some will suggest a new MAFs but how can a MAFs go bad after an Oil Change? Sounds strange... Plus I replaced the MAFS on my old Max and that wasn't the cure ( I know this is a different car.)
Thanks in advance for your help!
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