damn coils P1320
02-14-2013, 08:24 PM
#1
damn coils P1320
SO I got a bunch of codes
P0325
P1320
P0135
and I want to focus on P1320 but since theres no code that shows which cylinder is misfiring, is it safe to buy 6 coils off ebay?
any experience with these, seems awfully cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-99-Nissan...3827b9&vxp=mtr
also plan to swap out the knock sensor with ebay one
P0325
P1320
P0135
and I want to focus on P1320 but since theres no code that shows which cylinder is misfiring, is it safe to buy 6 coils off ebay?
any experience with these, seems awfully cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-99-Nissan...3827b9&vxp=mtr
also plan to swap out the knock sensor with ebay one
02-15-2013, 09:45 AM
#8
02-15-2013, 11:09 AM
#11
02-16-2013, 05:05 AM
#12
02-17-2013, 02:07 AM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: los angeles, ca
Posts: 25
This may sound crazy, and I can't verify it b/c of the amount off stuff that i did, but the small rubber hose that is supposed to connect the bottom of the BPT valve to the thin metal tube from the EGR valve had ruptured some time ago. I cleaned it all out, replaced the hose and I believe that may have been contributing to my problem. I always had 1320, but never had an accompanying cylinder code.
Here's another thought. The one time that 1320 came back- and since clearing the ECU after that it has stayed away - I started the car with the A/C switch on auto (i have the digital control) This is just a theory, but maybe the ECU is sensing a misfire due to the added stress of including the A/c in the starting process and triggering 1320. I don't know, but I'm being superstitious and making sure that it is shut down before i crank the starter. So far, so good. same ebay coil packs I've had on the car the last 6 years...
I guess maybe it still could've been in the wiring harness, i did move it around quite a bit - maybe i pinched something back together by accident. Like I said, I don't know, too many possibilities... that 1320 is a ***** and you can end up throwing hundreds of dollars worth of parts at it and still have it haunt you. So good luck, i hope some of this may help. and check that hose under your bpt valve - if it's blown, your egr wont function you'll lose some exhaust backpressure and the combustion temperature will be elevated. Your car may also run a bit lean b/c of it. I would think some of these thing could cause a sensed misfire...
02-17-2013, 09:13 AM
#14
02-19-2013, 12:58 PM
#15
I'm probably going to get crucified for saying this, but the 1320 might not be your coils. I don't know, it very well could be, but I've had a constant 1320 for over 10 years that I haven't been able to shake even by replacing coils twice, (once with dealer coils - $700+!, and once with ebay coils - about $150 for the set) spark plugs, every sensor associated with it, etc. I was convinced it was in the wiring harness somewhere. About 3 weeks ago, I failed smog check due to high NOx, suspected the EGR system - i do have 217,000 miles on the max (96) Anyway, took off the TB, IACV, UIM, EGR tube, valve, BPT and upper valve covers and cleaned it all out. Replaced the PVC valve, two blowby hoses and all the gaskets. When i put it all back together, 1320 was gone. well, it did come back once...
This may sound crazy, and I can't verify it b/c of the amount off stuff that i did, but the small rubber hose that is supposed to connect the bottom of the BPT valve to the thin metal tube from the EGR valve had ruptured some time ago. I cleaned it all out, replaced the hose and I believe that may have been contributing to my problem. I always had 1320, but never had an accompanying cylinder code.
Here's another thought. The one time that 1320 came back- and since clearing the ECU after that it has stayed away - I started the car with the A/C switch on auto (i have the digital control) This is just a theory, but maybe the ECU is sensing a misfire due to the added stress of including the A/c in the starting process and triggering 1320. I don't know, but I'm being superstitious and making sure that it is shut down before i crank the starter. So far, so good. same ebay coil packs I've had on the car the last 6 years...
I guess maybe it still could've been in the wiring harness, i did move it around quite a bit - maybe i pinched something back together by accident. Like I said, I don't know, too many possibilities... that 1320 is a ***** and you can end up throwing hundreds of dollars worth of parts at it and still have it haunt you. So good luck, i hope some of this may help. and check that hose under your bpt valve - if it's blown, your egr wont function you'll lose some exhaust backpressure and the combustion temperature will be elevated. Your car may also run a bit lean b/c of it. I would think some of these thing could cause a sensed misfire...
This may sound crazy, and I can't verify it b/c of the amount off stuff that i did, but the small rubber hose that is supposed to connect the bottom of the BPT valve to the thin metal tube from the EGR valve had ruptured some time ago. I cleaned it all out, replaced the hose and I believe that may have been contributing to my problem. I always had 1320, but never had an accompanying cylinder code.
Here's another thought. The one time that 1320 came back- and since clearing the ECU after that it has stayed away - I started the car with the A/C switch on auto (i have the digital control) This is just a theory, but maybe the ECU is sensing a misfire due to the added stress of including the A/c in the starting process and triggering 1320. I don't know, but I'm being superstitious and making sure that it is shut down before i crank the starter. So far, so good. same ebay coil packs I've had on the car the last 6 years...
I guess maybe it still could've been in the wiring harness, i did move it around quite a bit - maybe i pinched something back together by accident. Like I said, I don't know, too many possibilities... that 1320 is a ***** and you can end up throwing hundreds of dollars worth of parts at it and still have it haunt you. So good luck, i hope some of this may help. and check that hose under your bpt valve - if it's blown, your egr wont function you'll lose some exhaust backpressure and the combustion temperature will be elevated. Your car may also run a bit lean b/c of it. I would think some of these thing could cause a sensed misfire...
My first inclination is to clean the MAF, sometimes the car runs really high RPMs for a while. Like 2500 and stuck there when idle.
02-20-2013, 12:24 AM
#16
Really appreciate your input, I received the set of used coils from Fakie J Farkerton and will run some tests this weekend if weather permits.
My first inclination is to clean the MAF, sometimes the car runs really high RPMs for a while. Like 2500 and stuck there when idle.
If you replace your MAF, go OEM on that too.
02-20-2013, 05:53 AM
#17
02-23-2013, 02:27 PM
#18
houston we've got a code!
P0305 I have never been so happy to see a code LOL! http://www.obd-codes.com/p0305 cylinder 5
P0305 I have never been so happy to see a code LOL! http://www.obd-codes.com/p0305 cylinder 5
02-23-2013, 04:02 PM
#19
so before I go ahead and take stuff apart, I've been testing the used coils I got from the used for sale section here:
Connecting positive on 1 and negative on 2 indicates nothing (not infinite resistance).
Same for all six coils, (one of them is non-OEM). Did I get a dud by purchasing used? I don't want to waste time putting them in if they're no good, but also can't afford OEM new.
Thanks
Code:
In order to test the coil, take it out. Measure the resistance in the following manner: POS to 1 and NEG to 2 -- should show infinite resistance POS to 2 and NEG to 1 -- should show continuity but not zero ohms POS to spark plug and NEG to 1 -- should show infinite resistance POS to 1 and NEG to spark plug -- should show infinite resistance Connector number 3 is a trigger and is not measurable. Connector: ___|--|___ | 3 | 2| 1 | ----------- If any coil shows otherwise than it should be replaced.
Same for all six coils, (one of them is non-OEM). Did I get a dud by purchasing used? I don't want to waste time putting them in if they're no good, but also can't afford OEM new.
Thanks
02-23-2013, 11:21 PM
#20
Somethings off on your testing, but I'm sure I'm biased because I sold them to you.
The coils were not even what solved my problem, as I stated; it was my MAF.
I did have a code for one coil in the past and goofed by buying an aftermarket coil for the specific plug.
I didn't know about the aftermarkets always throwing a code and just replaced all of them with other used OEM to get rid of the p1320 when I found out.
That code went away, but my car didn't act any better.
About a week or so later I got a code for my MAF and swapped it out.
Fixed everything.
I'm pretty sure that p1320 was just from my aftermarket coil, and the rest are fine, just high mileage.
I'm subscribed either way.
The coils were not even what solved my problem, as I stated; it was my MAF.
I did have a code for one coil in the past and goofed by buying an aftermarket coil for the specific plug.
I didn't know about the aftermarkets always throwing a code and just replaced all of them with other used OEM to get rid of the p1320 when I found out.
That code went away, but my car didn't act any better.
About a week or so later I got a code for my MAF and swapped it out.
Fixed everything.
I'm pretty sure that p1320 was just from my aftermarket coil, and the rest are fine, just high mileage.
I'm subscribed either way.
02-24-2013, 04:47 AM
#21
not a problem 
definitely not trying to place blame and want to do as much research before digging in, since cylinder 5 is the hardest to change.
I think something is wrong with the ohm meter and is not showing infinite resistance. Will keep everyone updated
definitely not trying to place blame and want to do as much research before digging in, since cylinder 5 is the hardest to change.
I think something is wrong with the ohm meter and is not showing infinite resistance. Will keep everyone updated
02-24-2013, 08:59 AM
#22
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1998/EC.pdf
go to ec-334 to ec-335 read that that will tell you how to test the coil packs
doesnt matter the year the coils are the same so the test procedure will be the same
02-24-2013, 10:07 AM
#23
another update:
Gapped the spark a little closer and put the plug back in. pretty good for now but who knows and installed an OEM used coil from Farkie
also cleaned the throttle body.
https://i.imgur.com/nDXivQl.jpg
My plan is to change the plugs when I have more free time and warmer.
After lunch I'm going to pickup of Techron and throw it in there and call it a day.
============edit====
NGK coppers are okay right? looks like the plug inside cylinder 5 are in poor shape already
Gapped the spark a little closer and put the plug back in. pretty good for now but who knows and installed an OEM used coil from Farkie
also cleaned the throttle body.https://i.imgur.com/nDXivQl.jpg
My plan is to change the plugs when I have more free time and warmer.
After lunch I'm going to pickup of Techron and throw it in there and call it a day.
============edit====
NGK coppers are okay right? looks like the plug inside cylinder 5 are in poor shape already
Last edited by gladiator; 02-24-2013 at 01:11 PM. Reason: plugs
02-28-2013, 10:11 PM
#25
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5
Really appreciate your input, I received the set of used coils from Fakie J Farkerton and will run some tests this weekend if weather permits.
My first inclination is to clean the MAF, sometimes the car runs really high RPMs for a while. Like 2500 and stuck there when idle.
My first inclination is to clean the MAF, sometimes the car runs really high RPMs for a while. Like 2500 and stuck there when idle.
my 98 was spitting and sputtering and it would die sometimes right after you crank it up and also sometimes it'll just die when you stop at a light. i changed the fpr and the cam positioning sensor b/c thats the codes it was throwing. after i changed those it didnt help so i was thinking fuel injectors or coil packs. then i did some research on this forum and tried some advice on some things i could do for free b/c im on a limited budget. so i cleaned th maf sensor, tb, iacv, egr tube and just pretty much every thing right there in that little area and when i put it back together it was like a new car problem solved and i didnt even have to spend any money. i dont remember who told me to do it but i sure do appreciate it. thanks bro!!!!!!!!
03-01-2013, 07:59 AM
#27
my 98 was spitting and sputtering and it would die sometimes right after you crank it up and also sometimes it'll just die when you stop at a light. i changed the fpr and the cam positioning sensor b/c thats the codes it was throwing. after i changed those it didnt help so i was thinking fuel injectors or coil packs. then i did some research on this forum and tried some advice on some things i could do for free b/c im on a limited budget. so i cleaned th maf sensor, tb, iacv, egr tube and just pretty much every thing right there in that little area and when i put it back together it was like a new car problem solved and i didnt even have to spend any money. i dont remember who told me to do it but i sure do appreciate it. thanks bro!!!!!!!!
03-03-2013, 07:36 PM
#28
More update for the .org community.
So I finally got a chance to change the plugs today, they were pretty dirty with oil on it.
Afterwards there was a heavy misfire on cylinder 2 (CEL code) but I cleared it and everything was okay.
I also adjusted the FIC according to here http://forums.maxima.org/8646441-post20.html
here's the weird part: tested the car for any more coil / misfire code by driving to Ikea around 20 miles out. Everything was fine, but after an hour at Ikea, I had trouble starting.
Took a few tries before the car fired up, but no misfire or anything afterwards. And periodically, I still have trouble starting, but when it does everything feels smooth as ever.
So I finally got a chance to change the plugs today, they were pretty dirty with oil on it.
Afterwards there was a heavy misfire on cylinder 2 (CEL code) but I cleared it and everything was okay.
I also adjusted the FIC according to here http://forums.maxima.org/8646441-post20.html
here's the weird part: tested the car for any more coil / misfire code by driving to Ikea around 20 miles out. Everything was fine, but after an hour at Ikea, I had trouble starting.
Took a few tries before the car fired up, but no misfire or anything afterwards. And periodically, I still have trouble starting, but when it does everything feels smooth as ever.
03-04-2013, 06:31 PM
#29
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: maine
Posts: 10
im having a very close prob as every one in here but mine started after i upgraded my battery terminals and cabels the car would just crank and not start but iv managed to get to start now and it runs like it misfiring and studering but im not geting any code for it. i replaced my starter my crank sensors and cam sensor plugs and added so extra grounds and its staring better now but still tricky and still runs like its missing not sure were to go now with it be sides take the hole top end apart and puting it back togather lol i have my 00vi swap set and ready to do so might just do it then hope it fixes somthing any ideas
Last edited by drkjester; 03-04-2013 at 06:36 PM.
05-11-2014, 12:06 AM
#31
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