clive

I have a strange problem. The weather has been very rainy and a few days ago my car seemed to be a bit sluggish at first, it felt as if it was running on 5 cyl. When it warmed up the problem went away.

Then a day later I drove it from cold start, it was still raining, and after 2 miles when it warmed up, the car just wouldn't go at more than about 10mph. Try to accelerate and it splutters and dies.

I took it to the garage and the mechanic told me it was all the rain. It has never given trouble before in the rain but it was running fine so I said OK and drove home.

Now two days later I set off this evening, it has been dry for two days. I get 2 miles and the car, which was running great and terrific power a moment ago, dies and all I can manage is about 10 mph. I finally got it home with much embarassment.

The check engine light doesn't work on this car so I'm unable to pull codes. I have replaced the knock sensor about 6 months ago, and had all the injectors ultrasonic cleaned; the car has been running like a train until now.

maxima.713

iTrader: (7)

Why do you say you cant get the codes because your cel doesnt work?

Just because it doesnt turn on doesnt mean you cant plug up the obd2 reader and get the codes.

Unless the plug is broken or something.

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it might be your MAF sensor. With it in neutral, and while it's acting up, can you rev it past 2500rpm?


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njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

That wasn't a mechanic, that was an idiot. Find yourself a real mechanic.
Check for any stored error codes.
Check the MAF and the connections to it.

clive

For the first couple of miles it will rev to the maximum, has 100% power. Then it suddenly changes to crap. I am wondering if it is something to do with the automatic choke.
The place where I go to get the codes read is too far to reach with the car in this condition! That's why I haven't got the codes. I would read them myself but the lamp is burnt out from way back.

clive

When it acts up it won't rev at all, let alone to 2500. Just tick over.

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

Well, the MAF getting cold solders is a common problem for this car. If you have a multi-meter, you could check its connections to make sure they are good. If that checks out ok, then I would go from there. Maybe replace the check engine light bulb, too. It could tell you whats wrong, most likely.


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njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

There is no choke on a FI car.

clive

Yeah. I would have thought if the MAF was bad it would also affect it when cold; but it hits 5500 rpm easily enough. I do have a multimeter so I'll check that. Trying to think what sensors are temperature related... there are two temp sensors... I'm having the codes pulled this afternoon so hopefully I'll get some real info.

clive

Bad wording on my part. What happens I believe is that when the car is cold, the temp sensor causes the computer to inject extra fuel? Then as it comes up to operating temp that extra fuel is turned off... I was thinking that this is some kind of fuel-related problem, and that it only works OK when cold because of the extra fuel.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

There is the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) that the the ECU uses to determine how much fuel to inject into the cylinders. Most of the times when the sensor goes bad, it indicates a warmer than it is temperature which makes for hard-to-no starting. I suppose the reverse could be true.

A good OBD code reader can also display the output from the ECTS. If you check it when the engine is cold, the temperature reading should be the outside temperature. If the car is running and up to temperature, it should read about 200 degrees.

DBear

So the mechanic's recommended fix is "don't drive it in the rain"??

I'd look at the coilpacks and connecting wires. It the Max had spark plug wires they'd be the prime suspect. I don't know if coilpacks will show the same symptoms, though.

This might not help you right now, but you should pick up something like this: I bought something similar for about $30 a few years ago, and it works fine. It's a lot easier on my back than trying to contort myself under the dash to turn the screw, and you can use it on other cars too.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I've personally had a bad ECTS turn off my car while I was driving. Try to start the car and it won't turn over. Wait 10 minutes for things to cool down and the car will start and drive just fine; but after the car get's hot again, the ECTS shut off the car once again.

But you have to start with checking for codes, whether you check at the ECU with the screwdriver method, or connect a scanner to the OBDII port.

maxfever1987

iTrader: (93)

Do you have an autozone near you? Or an honest mechanic you can simply just write down the codes without charging you? If so give us the codes, and fix the light bulb as well,

clive

Finally. It turned out to be a MAF wire that had the insulation rubbed off it at one point. It was shorting the MAF sensor. Thanks everyone.