97_GXE

So, I have a tie rod on driver's side that is very loose and causing a ton of vibration on the road going high speeds. I've confirmed with 2 shops it's the tie rod.

My mech suggested just replacing the one. Now, I'm not one to fix a part that's not broken...but when it comes to stuff like tires, headlights and other things best changed in 4's or 2's...I feel better to just change them both. But, he said it'd be like changing a good part...which I also don't like to do.

Should I just go with 1 or both? If it makes any difference, even though I'm tight on budget (I already replaced struts and done a paint job in the past year and a half)...I want to go with Moog or most likely the Beck Arnley.

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

Both

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

+1 ...

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I did all 4, inner and outer at 202,000 miles when I discovered 1 slightly lose and a torn boot on the rack.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

do both inners and both outer since you will need to do an alignment anyways. its cheap insurance.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

I have bad inner and outer on driver side.. passenger side is fine, Why replace it if it isn't broken? especially on a tight budget. Im only replacing whats broken.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

97_GXE

Well I don't know, I owned a car that had just as much mileage and never had anything done to them before. I just don't want to give my mechanic TOO much work to do He's already usually bogged down as it is. But, he lives less than a mile away so I get to just walk home while he fixes it.

I can consider just doing both inners at the most. But, I might just stick with doing 1. I'm going to need new tires soon and those def all 4. Driving in the snow with less than a certain amount of tread can be gutwrenching.

I did have a look at the passenger side and it seems tight. But, it's just good to know if there will be an extra incentive to do both, other than doing it just to do it.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

I did have a look at the passenger side and it seems tight. But, it's just good to know if there will be an extra incentive to do both, other than doing it just to do it.[/QUOTE]

If there isn't anything wrong with the other side leave it alone, when it fails you can deal with it at that time. Nothing further to discuss

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Think of it this way - the tierods that are still good have been exposed to identical conditions as the one that has failed. Its only a short matter of time before the good ones fail as well.

Do it once and do it right. Unless youre ok with paying for two alignments and having to have your car down for two seperate days.

97_GXE

so if I did all 4 of the tierods, would the labor be 'about' the same since it's basically all running along the same axle?

97_GXE

What if it was already replaced before? We can't just assume something will fail.

When I was changing my radiator, one of my neighbors was suggesting I change the large lower radiator hose. I didn't think it did, but did it anyway. Well turns out, it was a good condition and was a Napa part that was already changed before. I returned the hose I bought.

Not trying to argue...but I just need a concrete reason to change it, other than it might fail.

cashoit

if u got the cash then replace em. If not then dont.

FWIW, i replaced both of mine when the passenger side went.

97_GXE

Oh okay. So when you say you replaced both sides, did you mean both inner sides? or both outer sides? Or both inner and outer sides? lol

I'm just asking because I'm okay with doing both inners since the inner one is what is loose. But, should I just leave the outer ones alone for now?

theWalkinator

When it comes to suspensions and brakes, the convention wisdom is to fix/replace both side, especially when the part has ball joint. I replace both inner and outer tie rods on both side so I can be sure that both side are at the same condition.

I just replaced front calipers on both sides even though only the passenger side was bad. Tie rods are cheap and the job is not difficult to do, but you need to rent inner tie rod tool to take it off and to put it back on.

L_U_D_I_AMaxima

iTrader: (3)

Even if you spend some more $$$ and actually get MOOG outer tie rods it will still be cheaper to replace both driver and passenger, get an alignment and call it a day... if you just replace one then 6 months from now you replace the other then you would still have to do an alignment...

97_GXE

Yeah that is true. Except I'd probably get the alignment again in 6 months anyway with how I drive lol. However, my car seems to hold up well on alignments, even with a loose tie rod. I think I've only had to do 1 done last year.

I'll do both the inner ones since there's a joint there. Maybe by the time the other ones are ready to go, I'll be ready to make that upgrade to the early 2000 Infiniti m45 or Q45





So sexy! Ugh I get turned on! I like those even better than the current M series. Only reason I didn't upgrade last year when I had the money was the drop in gas mileage (despite a bigger tank) and on my many trips to the salvage yards, they never have more than 1 or 2. Seems it'd be hard to find replacement parts...like tie rods

Patm-a32

both inner and outer, saving money in the long run cause u will only need 1 allingment

cashoit

dang it was like 2 yrs ago. I think inner and outer.

6cyl-97maxima

Last year I replaced the passenger side outer tie-rod but opted not to Replace the driver side or any other ones, as they were all pretty tight. This year however, had to replace a driver side outer, even though it seemed fine last year. The moral of the stories is, I opted not to replace the other side and got another year out of the part. So really its up to you and what your budget is like. Keep in mind that I never had an alignment done after either job as my mechanic seems to do a great job without the alignment machine. I don't know what he does, (count the threads measure, whatever), but it always drives straight right out of his garage. of course if I had more $$$ I would of gotten a laser alignment done anyway.

97_GXE

Hmmm, interesting. The only time a mechanic every recommends me to go to a tire shop for repair is to get an alignment done. Sometimes what 'appears' straight though may be off to a degree. But, I don't know much about the specifics of alignments. I just know I need one after changing struts and now this.

97_GXE

OK, I'm wondering if I did this right: I bought 2 inner tie rods with the boot kit.

Should I have instead bought just inner and outer tie rod for the driver's side...since that's the side the inner is falling apart?

...Just goes to show, I don't know crap about suspension parts. I'm new to this. I'm sure this can't be harder than changing a radiator, thermostat and alternator

6cyl-97maxima

Don't get me wrong...My mechanic always recommends that I go to a tire shop and have it laser aligned. His exact words are "I got the alignment as close as I can, but if you want it perfect you have to get a laser alignment." Now because of MY budget I opted to not get the laser alignment done. It may not be perfect, but its nothing I can notice when driving and a year later my tires still show even wear. Tires will wear unevenly, usually on the outer or inner edges, when alignment is way off.

6cyl-97maxima

IMHO, just replacing the two inners is perfectly fine, assuming the outers are all still good and tight.
Are you actually paying mechanics to check your tie-rods? If so stop, and check them yourself. Jack the car up at the front just until the wheels are off the ground. Now wiggle the tire side-to-side, it should not budge it it does wiggle then you have a bad inner or outer tie-rod. Changing tie-rods is fairly easy, but you may need a special tool to pop the tie-rods out. I have also used a hammer before, but you want to becareful not to mushroom the top of the threads if you intend on using the tie-rods again.

Max_Gator

You can just replace the one that is broken if you are on a tight budget.

However, if it was me I would replace both inner and outer on both sides (well, I would do it myself). Once one fails, the others are going to be not far behind. Plus, new suspension parts mixed with old makes the old fail faster and will affect handling.

Be advised, though. Doing the tie rods is one heck of a pain in the *** if doing them yourself. It is a dirty, greasy job. The outers can be brutal to get off of the inners. The inners can be ok if you get the right tool kit. But the boots are a royal pain in the ***.

Just my experience on both my cars.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

and, btw MOOG for the tie rods ftw