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PS Belt, "start bump it on", why?

Old Apr 6, 2014 | 03:40 PM
  #1  
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PS Belt, "start bump it on", why?

I've been reading threads about replacing the PS Belt... and I've seen the suggestions about using the starter to bump it on.

Is the starter bump option used to avoid trying to deal with the horrendously impossible to reach bolt on the rear? Or, after you get the bolt loosened is there still a problem getting the new belt on?

[Also: has anyone tracked down the engineer who designed that back of the starter bolt and beat him senseless yet? Because I'm up to be the guy who does it if a volunteer is needed ]
Old Apr 6, 2014 | 03:55 PM
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Yes, it is because people are too inept or lazy to do it properly.
Old Apr 6, 2014 | 04:09 PM
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^ what he said.
Old Apr 6, 2014 | 04:41 PM
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Cut the old one off, bump the new one on.
Save time, your sanity and your knuckles.
Old Apr 6, 2014 | 06:18 PM
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And have the tension just as wrong as before you cut it off.
Old Apr 6, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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OK, thanks. I did get in there and get the bolt loose, but what a PITA.

I did the adjustment for now, I just wanted to be prepped for when I go back in to replace the belt in a couple months (long story).
Old Apr 17, 2014 | 06:26 PM
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I just replaced both my belts on Tuesday. Loosening the bolt on the backside was easy with a long extension, swivel, and 14mm shallow socket. Go in between the cross member and the transmission with the extension and then place the swivel socket on the extension with your other hand. In my case a deep socket was too long and put a bind on the swivel. I loosened the 12mm tensioner bolt with a 1/4" socket on a little 1/4 breaker bar. The tensioner could then be adjusted wit a 1/4" 12mm socket with a swivel and extension.

It was very easy and the belts don't squeak any more.
Old Apr 17, 2014 | 07:50 PM
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Belt is easy compared to replacing the pump. I had to use long wrenches to get the 12mm clamp bolt on the side. If you can find a 12mm, long ratcheting wrench, pay whatever they are asking for it.
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