Okay, I was drilling a hole in the firewall to put my amplifier power wire and two things happened.

#1: The drill rubbed on the purple connector on the IACV and stripped out the wires. I only saw two wires, so I just did the best I could to fix it with electrical tape. I then unplugged all the connectors and continued drilling.

#2: I drilled into the translucent white box behind the radio. I'm not sure of the function of this box, but I thought it was just the AC, so I didn't worry much about it.

When I finished I forgot I unplugged the connectors and just drove off. I made it about 700-800 ft before my car died. Every time I tried to start it, it would either barely catch, misfire, then die, or either it wouldn't start at all. I plugged all the connectors back in, and nothing changed. Now it will start more often, but it won't stay crunk. It idles terribly, and eventually seems to get "choked out."

Has anyone ever driven off with all those connectors unplugged? What do you think my plan of attack should be tomorrow when I get some light? Obviously I'm going to start with the wires on the IACV, but where after that? I have so many codes, I can't sort through them.

0407
0801
0807
0903
1302
0102
0104
0205
0607

I looked at these codes for a second, but I didn't have much time to work on it tonight. Some of those codes where there previously, specifically the speed sensor code, and the cylinder 2 misfire.

 

Fix the wires, connect everything, clear the codes and go from there. Not sure what the translucent box is. Is crunk a word??


Guess so.

 

Here's an interesting development. The car starts almost every time now, it just runs terribly and only stays on for about 30 seconds before dying, **BUT** if I hit the gas at all, it dies immediately.

Don't know if crunk is a word Lol

 

Maf.

 

I reset all the codes and let it die a few more times. These are the ones that came back:

0903 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Control Valve
1302 - MAP sensor connector
0801 - Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
0807 - EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve

Those are weird codes that seemingly have nothing to do with the area I botched...

 

I just went out there and played with the wires a little more, and I am certain they were connected, and I am certain they were not touching. I also fiddled with the MAP sensor connector.

Then I tried to start the car, and it wouldn't start at all. Only crank and crank and crank... So either something got damaged from driving with those connectors unplugged, that white box is something important (I'm like 90% sure it's AC), or either bad luck struck at a very coincidental time.




I don't think any of those codes would cause the engine to not start... In the thread about the MAP sensor everyone seems to be driving their cars back and forth to autozone... Maybe I messed up a vacuum hose or something...




_

 

You're right about those 4 codes. They should not keep the engine from running.

The 1302 code is the MAP/BARO switch. It could be a vacuum line is disconnected (it has 3) or switch itself. I think one of the vacuum lines for this switch connects somewhere near the IACV. This photo may help you find the valve. This photo is from a 97, but I don't think all years are the same.



For the 0903 code, this is bolted on the charcoal canister behind the driver's side rear wheel. These valves have a tendency to corrode that keeps the plunger inside it fom moving. Sometimes you can free the plunger by soaking it with WD40 and pushing it with a screwdriver. But not always.

The 0801 code is another solenoid valve in back near the charcoal canister. I have a photo of my 2000 which is pretty similiar to my 97.



The 0807 Code is another solenoid type valve that bolted on to the engine intake manifold. I am posting a photo of my 97 Cali emissions valve, but this emission stuff changed almost every year.

 

Is the white box you drilled into a big sucker that goes from the floor to the top of the dash? If so, it is strictly air duct stuff, having all the diverter doors for channeling air flow to the various vents. You're lucky you didn't drill into the heater core that is also in there.

 

Omg! It was fuse #17: ENG CONT

I am back up and running folks! Kinda weird that that caused all those codes AND kept the car from running...

Now I'm just ashamed I spent $125 on a tow truck for a fuse... I checked a lot of them too... Just not that one...