I didn't introduce myself properly earlier - I'm Brian A, I have a '98 i30 and I'm in Houston, TX. I'm married with two kids. I also have a '77 Olds Delta 88 Pace Car - it's waiting for its 462 transplant.

The 98 i30 has 110k miles (I misquoted 112k earlier). Since I added a Bosch MAF, and cleaned the IACV, EGR pilot tube, and TB (and especially since I re-installed the EGR pilot tube upper gasket properly) the car is running pretty well.

This engine leaks oil - a lot of oil. I had a shop put it on their lift and the diagnosis was "upper oil pan, timing cover, lower oil pan, valve covers, and rear main seal". I am formulating a plan to take the engine entirely out of the car and re-do all of these deficient oil seals.

This work will be happening on a lift, one way or another. It seems like it would be easier to do a great job on all these oil seals the first time if the motor was taken completely out of the car (rather than keeping it hanging there on a chain between the strut towers). Anyone have any strong opinions re: taking it all the way out, or not?

My primary question is re: what "mightaswells" I should perform at the same time the motor is out of the car. For example - I don't think I need a new timing chain, and didn't plan to remove it while re-sealing the timing cover - however, after reading the forum I see you have to remove the chain to get at "the two little o-rings in the back". Since removing and replacing the engine is so involved, I surely want to replace those o-rings now. So the next question is:

Assuming the chain is removed to service those o-rings - should I install a new timing chain, or should I re-install the old one? At only 110k I'm thinking the old chain might just be getting worn-in, and that putting a new (tight) chain on the balance of the 18 year-old valvetrain might not be the way to go.

Same thing with the chain tensioners - examine for excessive wear and re-use, or replace with new as a matter of course?

What about:

have fuel injectors rebuilt at InjectorRX while UIM is off - definitely going to do this
replace water pump? - no pump-related symptoms, but pump is 18 years old
replace oil pump? - again, no oil pressure related symptoms, but pump is aged
replace those "small o-rings in the back" after all?
replace screw head fasteners on coil packs/injectors with hex head stainless

The power steering pump is relatively new - so is the idler pulley/tensioner. It only leaks engine oil - not trans or power steering fluid.

What other mightaswells should I think about while the motor is out of the car?

Thanks -

BrianA in Houston

 

A new knock sensor will be inexpensive, and a lot easier with the rngine out of the car.

How about all of the belts ?

Sounds like you have your head screwed on straight, and are doing things the right way - before they break.

Good luck, and report back the degree of difficulty !

 

I would wait for replys from other members before removing the engine to fix those leaks. The mechanic might have mis diagnosed some of that.

If you do remove the engine, then I would replace every coolant hose you see. The water pump for sure. It could fail at any time. Replacing it on out of the car would be easier. Real main seal for sure. The injectors and their gas lines. Certainly. The knock sensor.

 

Yeah maybe you should replace the evap system hoses as they could eliminate future diagnostic steps for when a component fails.

also.. since you're doing that and all, maybe you could erm, umm, jot down the measurements/size/types of hoses you replaced, and maybe put it on the forum so that I, I mean we can all enjoy. I hate having to drive back and forth to vatozone for a $1 part.

 

Oh yes, clean out the egr system and it's tubes. They would be easier to service with the uim removed.

 

Yes, a knock sensor, all the gaskets, PCV valve and grommet, water pump, spark plugs, maybe an alternator, too.

For the knock sensor, I recommend the Hitachi KNS001, which is the actual OE part and around $40. Replacing the fuel injector screws wouldn;t hurt at all.

Aisin water pump; Victor Reinz, Beck/Arnley, or Fel-Pro gaskets; I'd buy new injectors, Bosch, B/A, or Hitachi fuel injectors (only necessary to replace the back three now, as the front three are easy to access); Denso (pn 3395 or 5303) or NGK (pn 7994) iridium spark plugs that last longer, so you won't have to do them again (DO NOT use antiseize!); and all the belts and hoses involved.

 

I must be missing something re: what's required to take the long block out of the engine compartment.

By the time you've unbolted the bellhousing and swung the a**-end forward enough to replace the RMS, what else lay in your way before just pulling the engine all the way out?

I've heard others who know Nissan more than I also recommend not pulling motor all the way out - but I've never understood the reason.

Do you have to remove the hood in order to pick the long block with an engine hoist?

 

OK, water pump and coolant hoses for sure. Aisin is the OEM pump vendor? Maybe get it even cheaper from a retailer than from discount online Infiniti dealer?

Re: gaskets - I was looking at this:
http://www.nissaninfinitiparts.com/i...aul-gasket-set

NEW injectors? - not just rebuild the old ones? I ask re: quality of the end product - not necessarily re: expense. Is a properly rebuilt OEM injector ($18/injector while you wait at InjectorRX) inferior to a new brand-name injector? Which one of those injector manufacturers is the OEM vendor? Thanks.

gas lines - you're talking about the rubber fuel lines that traverse the UIM from injector rail to rail, yes? Those definitely don't disassemble well at all.

Knock Sensor is new OEM (60 days). I paid...more than $40 @ orderinfinitiparts.com. PCV is new. Spark plugs are new NGK - probably put brand new plugs in anyway re: possible fouling from valve cover leaks.

Aftermarket alternator failed 9/2015 and was replaced with $195 O'Reilly alternator ...seems like any alternator is always bound to fail when you bathe it in engine oil though. The OEM alternator is _expensive_ yo. I'd like to buy the OEM alternator from someone other than an Infiniti dealer...

oil pump?

 

The 4th gen is arguably the most reliable of maximas out there, going from, say, 2nd gen to 7th gen. Numerous stories of 4th and some 5th gen 3.0s with 400K+ miles just from regular maintenance. So, replace the oil pump? Heck no.

 

The gas lines fit between the two fuel rails, and from the pressure regulator and from the fuel filter. The one between the two fuel rails is only accessible if the uim is off.

Injector rx , and other companies like it. Often do a good job on the rebuild. The injectors work as well as new, and for a long time.

I used an Aisen pump. Got it from Amazon. Aisen also builds automatics transmissions for toyota. Fifty bucks or so. I got my gates coolant hoses from them as well. I saved so much on the hoses vs buying at o Reilly that the savings paid for the pump.

Spark plugs don't foul from oil on the outside. Just clean them while they are in the car.

The hood is not difficult to remove and replace. You will need an assistant.

 

At 110K the car really doesn't need to much rebuilding. These engines are almost bullet proof. Definitely look closely at all the seals, they dry up with age. The two o-rings are a must if you have the timing covers off. Valve covers, front and rear main, timing cover gaskets, o-rings, clean it up and run it for another 100K or so.

 

Excellent, thank you.

After replacing the O-rings behind the timing chain - Re-use, or Re-Place:

timing chain ?
chain tensioners ?

Thanks

 

The chain and tensioner should be ok in your 98. Earlier 95-96's had weak tensioners.

 

The OEM gaskets are clearly deficient in either design or material; perhaps the design of the timing chain seal/other covers is what leaves a little bit to be desired.

Do Victor Reinz, Beck/Arnley, or Fel-Pro produce a superior problem-solving product for any of the gaskets involved?

 

I haven't read of a single person who has needed to replace the timing chain. I'd just re install .

Your car is quite young, mileage wise. Most of us have 2 or 3 times that mileage.

 

so... the question... does the tensioner from a 97-98 work on a 95-96...


Same engine code... slight upgrade?