CS_AR

On a big part like a CV axle that can be a pain to return for replacement, I like to buy from a local parts store where I can get a lifetime replacement warranty. Then if something goes wrong, I just walk it into the store for replacement.

KP did a bunch of research on axles that I am echoing back in this part from another thread.

I like Cardone's product description that is the unique thing I've found about the axles from Trackmotive.

-> 100% Neoprene boots are designed with additional bellows to resist bellow stress and ozone cracking, the leading cause of boot failure.
-> A new axle nut is supplied with every unit for hassle-free installation, as the old nut on the vehicle is typically worn or stripped.
-> Axle is measured 100% after assembly to ensure proper fit.
-> Boot clamps are pneumatically crimped creating a perfect seal between the boot and housing.
CARDONE Select Engineered (CSE) Technology ensures that all CV axles meet or exceed O.E. form, fit and function.
-> High quality grease withstands high-temperature and high-torque demands to ensure long-lasting, reliable performance.
-> Splines are precision rolled to ensure proper fit of axle into the mating hub and transmission, which eliminates installation hassles.
-> Threads are precision rolled to ensure proper fit when axle nut is installed.
-> Transmission seal diameter is precision-machined after heat treatment to ensure correct surface finish, promoting long seal life.

KP11520

Another Masterpiece ^^^^^^^ From our friend CS_AR!

Thank you!

maxiiiboy

Subscribing to this thread.
Wish I knew about it sooner.

I am the original owner of my 2000SE/AT, and just replaced my axles the 2nd time. My axle story is described here: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post9146091 .

BTW, I tried to get OEM Nissan axles and/or Raxles. Failed on both counts, there is neither OEM nor Raxle support for the 2000 Maxima.

CS_AR

Here's what I can find about FEQ parts.

http://www.feqparts.com/

http://www.trademarkia.com/feq-first...-78856403.html

On Friday, April 7, 2006, a U.S. federal trademark registration was filed for FEQ (FIRST EQUIPMENT QUALITY) by WORLDPAC, INC., NEWARK, CA 945605522. The USPTO has given the FEQ (FIRST EQUIPMENT QUALITY) trademark serial number of 78856403. The current federal status of this trademark filing is CONTINUED USE AND INCONTESTIBILITY ACCEPTED. The correspondent listed for FEQ (FIRST EQUIPMENT QUALITY)

KP11520

So I did a query on Google for FEQ CV Axles and there were a lot of posts on different forums and way too many were negative. Seems they have a reputation for completely breaking a joint.

And very little complaints about Import Direct/SurTracks in comparison. So many said the Cardone Selects were the best aftermarket.

Ding Ding Ding.... Cardone Selects are the same as Import Direct and SurTrack.

One thing I take away from all that I've read is that all of these China Aftermarkets have enough bad ones getting past QC to feed forum posts that put doubt. But some have less and the rest have more. Proceed with caution, only after a lot of research.

I'm not second guessing what I chose at all! The research supports my decision and something from left field doesn't warrant me doubting my decision. Sorry for all of you with the bad experiences that are part of the statistics.

I'm going through that with my front struts right now. Time for new NISSAN struts in 2 1/2 years after installing new Moog assemblies, redoing the strut mounts that quickly puked in a year, and now completely again!

When it comes to Struts... OEM Only! Except if you lower your car and then maybe different springs and struts, but OEM everything else.

Unfortunately, OEM CV axles really aren't an option.

maximaxi

The Moog struts are Chinese.

Monroe and Gabriel quick struts are good quality and will work fine for at least 50k (and Monroe's lifetime warranty even covers wear, so when they're worn, you get another set for free).

You just missed a $100 rebate promo from Monroe, but they will run it again in September. Gabriel's promos, run during the same times Monroe does theirs, is buy-3-get-1-free after rebate.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

So I have a 5sp 1999, for the passenger right, do I need cardone 66-6147 or 66-6156? I thought it was 66-6147?

Edit: the 66-6156 appears to be for locking diff so I suppose the 66-6147 will work on a 5sp?

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

So if I'm reading all this correctly Cardone=Import Direct=SurTrack. So basically find whichever is cheapest locally and cross your fingers? Sounds like a plan to me! Maybe rub some Sil-Glyde over the boots every couple months to keep them happy...

CS_AR

Yes. The part number ending in 6 is for LOCKING/VLSD differentials.

Just looking at Cardone's site in the link below. I see

Front Right
w/o Locking Differential; Locking differential is identified by a tag on the transmission.
66-6147

Front Right
w/Locking Differential and w/A.T.
66-6147

For non locking/VLSD differentials, both Auto and Manual use the same axle and seals for the passenger (right) side that end with a 7.

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Prod...fA.T.%3a%3a%3a

For the passenger right seal, I only use National Part No. 710124. The same 710124 seal works for ALL passenger (right) side 4th Gens whether it is AT/MT, non-VLSD or with-VLSD. I have both MT (non-VLSD) and AT (with-VLSD) and I like the idea that I only need to keep one type of seal around that works for any 4th gen passenger side.

1999 Nissan MaximaIf you are located near Cardone's headquarters in Philadelphia PA, there should be plenty of places to buy Cardone Select axles.

CS_AR

I went with Import Direct for the following reasons:

1) Two Local Stores in my suburb + 10 other within 35 miles and central distribution warehouse.

2) Lifetime Warranty - If anything goes wrong, just take it back to the store and get a replacement.

3) I'm in the O'Rewards Program. The purchases result in rewards bonuses.

4) O'Reilly has my purchases stored in their customer system by my email address and/or phone number that is tied to the O'Rewards program. Because O" keeps my purchase history stored in their system forever it seems, I've returned other items purchased at O'Reilly years later for replacement WITHOUT A RECEIPT.

Because "Ain't Nobody Got Time To Keep Up With Receipts"


I thought I was the only person that did stuff like that.

Actually I keep a gallon jug of Ru-Glyde (from NAPA) around to lubricate rubber parts. I remember seeing a full service station use Ru-Glyde to lubricate a customer's 1961 Thunderbird rubber bushings a part an oil change and lubrication service. Those days belong to the past.

I'm sure Sil-Glyde is a newer and better product.

The only thing to watch is to make sure you don't leave a sticky reside that can attract road dirt or grit. I'm sure you wouldn't anyway.

I actually use a silicone grease product from Japan named Shin Etsu for lubricating door seals. It sure makes them last.

Here's a thread on how to keep your door seals young and your car quiet.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...hiznit-745587/

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Makes sense about going with Import Direct. I guess I'll just go to Advance Auto and see which of those brands they have. RockAuto is cheaper, but shipping ain't free, and returns are going to be more of a hassle.

Regarding lubing the axle seals....nah....I'm pretty nutty about stuff too, you're not the only one! But I don't think there's a way to apply a meaningful amount to the boots without it then attracting dirt. Sil-Glyde ( ) doesn't evaporate, so whatever you put on is going to stay there until it slings off.

That Shin Etsu stuff sounds like high quality stuff ( ) but it sounds like it's pretty similar to the silicone paste that I have ( ). I wonder how they compare to the Sil-Glyde....

CS_AR

Advance sells GSP axles. Unless they changed since December, my experience has been the boots rupture between 3 to 5 years. I think I have pictures of the ruptured boots at the beginning of this thread.

Check out this video about weatherstrip restoration.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Thank you for the great info!

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Well I did some more looking around today and I think I'm stuck buying from RockAuto. NAPA doesn't carry any of the good brands, Carquest=Advance Auto and they don't carry any of the good brands, Autozone doesn't carry any good brands, and the nearest O'Reilly is nowhere near me.

My car is a MT 96 with ABS and a non-VLSD case (although there is a Quaife inside it ). Looking at the Cardone website, it looks like I need 66-6150 for the DS and 66-6147 for the PS.

Front Left w/Locking Differential and w/A.T. 66-6159
Front Right w/Locking Differential and w/A.T. 66-6147
Front Left w/Locking Differential and w/M.T. 66-6157
Front Right w/Locking Differential and w/M.T. 66-6156
Front Left w/o Locking Differential; Locking differential is identified by a tag on the transmission. 66-6150
Front Right w/o Locking Differential; Locking differential is identified by a tag on the transmission. 66-6147

Am I missing anything, or should I go ahead and place my order? Does this mean that the non-VLSD auto/manual transmissions share the same axles on both sides? Because Cardone isn't specifying which transmission type the 66-6150 and 66-6147 go with, and they're the only option for non-VLSD cars.

CS_AR

Hey Nick - The numbers look like what I would choose from the Rock site. Since the Quaife transmission is non-VLSD, you won't have the dual splines like a VLSD on the driver(Left) side that you can see on part number 66-6157. Right?

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

I can only assume so without looking. But what has me confused is that I could have sworn that I use the same PS axle whether I'm using my non-VLSD trans or the VLSD trans. And Cardone makes it sound like VLSD MT needs a different PS axle than a non-VLSD MT. I'm pretty sure they're wrong, which makes me question which of the PS axles I should get.

CS_AR

Last winter I switched to Import Direct (a.k.a. SurTrack/Trackmotive) axles for the 98 model Automatic VLSD and the PS side for the 99 model 5-MT.

I bought two Part Number NI8147.

Both the Automatic VLSD and the 5-MT non-VLSD use Part Number NI8147. That part number in Cardone is 666147.

For a 5-MT with VLSD, I see SurTrack/Trackmotive with Part Number NI8036 and Cardone with 666156.

There is a length difference between non-VLSD for the 5-MT and the VLSD version. Here are a couple of SurTrack pictures below for part numbers ending with 6 and 7.

Every once in a while we will see someone show up on here complaining about leaking fluid around the transmission seal and find they have a PS side axle for a VLSD 5-MT (the shorter axle) that has been installed on a non-VLSD transmission. There is a length difference as the pictures show. So we can't say that all A32's use the same PS axle regardless of the transmission type. That is true for the PS seals. But not for the PS axles.

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

yep. For some reason when I did my vlsd tranny swap, my axel was short on the passenger side. Had to get a vlsd axle from i30 to fit correctly.

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Wow, this is all news to me! I wonder how I've gotten away with using the same axle on the PS when I've switched back and forth between open and VLSD transmissions. Maybe I've got the longer version in there and it's just extra compressed when used with the wrong trans?

Also, I'm not sure what to make of the difference in teeth count for the ABS ring. Can the ABS computer (if there is such a thing) compensate for the difference? Is each ABS ECU coded for a certain number of teeth?

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Hey guys, my buddy with a Subaru Forester asked my opinion about axles on RockAuto, and I was quite happy to relay everything I learned in this thread! Looking around on RockAuto, I noticed an option from Cardone that we unfortunately don't have- axles with HD thermoplastic boots! Looks like they're made for fleet vehicles.

https://www.cardone.com/products/dri...n-products-new

I wonder if they would make custom sets for us with those stronger boots....hmm....

CS_AR

I see Rockford Thermoplastic boots at the following link.

http://www.rockfordcv.com/Nissan_bootkits.htm

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

That link doesn't mention anything about the material, I assume the link you clicked on said those were the listings for thermoplastic?

Now the question is how do those thermoplastic boots compare to OEM boots from Nissan....? Or is it even worth the effort to replace the new boots on a Cardone axle with better boots?

CS_AR

Going back a page where I saw the following

Rockford's Duraboot is made of a Monsanto blend of special thermoplastic materials which resists temperatures from a frigid low of -65 F up to a scorching high of +475 F. The Duraboot is the ultimate joint protection against variable operating temperatures and destructive road abrasion.

http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm

I actually have a set of new OEM boots sitting on the shelf in my garage. Though I want to run with the new Neoprene boot material that I've found on the TrackMotive CV axles to see how it goes. I built new OEM boot + GSP combination axles and never used them. I have more CV axles laying around and axles with a lifetime warranty than I foresee using at this point.

hungtdao

I also used SurTrack (TrackMotive) CV Axles on both left & right ordered from RockAuto. I chose SurTrack over Cardone because a local O'Reilly Store also carries SurTrack axles. These are my 2nd axle replacement on my 1999 Maxima. I don't remember the brand of first replacement but the boot lasted only about 5 years. The Nissan OEM axles may be last longer but they are too costly for this old car. Installation SurTrack axles is considered not too difficult if you have right tools. I did the driver side first, it took almost a day as learning in progress while working even I had watched several online video. The passenger which was supposed to be more complicated but it took me about 3-4 hours to get the job done. On removing 3 nuts on passenger axle, I used extend long 12mm wrench that made the job easy. I did not need to replace the seal on passenger side. I found the seal in good shape as the old and new axle has a metal covered ring that covered the seal when the axle inserted into the transmission. I have been driving several hundred miles on both city and highway. The ride is smooth and stable so far.

Zerodrag

iTrader: (1)

Well, after not even 1k miles on the new GSP passenger axle, one of the boots have already torn. I'll try going with a SurTrack unit this next time (and hope they didn't mess up with the QC)...

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Wow, that's terrible, but a good warning to the rest of us. Good luck with the SurTrack and report back!

CS_AR

+1 and sorry to hear.

PH98I30

Lots of info in this thread. I just found out my CV boots are torn. Looks like some axle work is ahead for me.

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Well, a year after I realized I needed a new axle, I'm finally replacing both of them with some Cardones. This is for a MT non-VLSD case. My new DS axle matches up well with the old, completely destroyed one in terms of length and the version of the splines going into the trans (VLSD has two stepped levels of splines, non-VLSD only has one layer of splines). I wanted to confirm which PS axle I have been using for the last 6+ years, as it has been used with both VLSD and non-VLSD transmissions.

Going off your pictures, the non-LSD PS axle should be about 38-1/16" long with 46 teeth, and the shaft length of 17-1/2"
--Going off your pictures, the VLSD PS axle should be about 37-25/32" long with 44 teeth, and the shaft length of 16-5/32"

I measure my old PS axle to about 38-1/4" long, with 46 teeth, and a shaft length of 17-1/4"
-I measure my new PS axle to about 39" long, with 46 teeth, and a shaft length of 17-1/2"

I can only assume that the difference in length is due to the new one not having been compressed yet, since if they both have 46 teeth, I can only assume they're both non-VLSD axles. But still, the new one is measuring almost a full inch longer than specs suggest. Think I need to worry about anything, or should I just slap it back together? If this is indeed a non-VLSD axle, I wonder what was happening to it when I was running the VLSD trans in the car. How much can the joints be compressed and still be able to function properly? I don't notice anything wrong with the old PS axle I took out, so maybe you can use the longer non-VLSD PS axles with both transmissions?

CS_AR

Hey Nick -

I take it you are running the Cardone Part Number: 66-6147 on the PS? I had that one running (under the Import Direct label) on the PS for the 99 model 5-MT without issue. Though something punctured the inner boot not long after it was installed. So I eventually returned that one and I have a new one stored away in the attic. We are also running the Import Direct version on the 97 model 5-MT.

From what I've experienced, the passenger side axle on non-VLSD is the same between manual and automatics. Its when you get to VLSD on a MT is the point where things start to be different. The only problem that I recall seeing when the passenger side VLSD axle is mismatched with a non-VLSD transmission is the shaft between the carrier and transmission being too short. That allows some of the splines to stick out past the seal. It's easy to see that when it happens. Naturally, that situation introduces an oil leak.

I don't think you will have any issues with the Cardone axles because too many people on here are running them or their related product.

As a side note, the Super Axle experiment with a new GSP axle using an OEM outer boot and Green Grease is working well on the 99 model 5-MT. Though it will take at least 5+ years to really know that finally works out.

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Thanks! Yup, 66-6147 on the PS. So do you have any idea what would happen if you run the longer non-VLSD PS axle with a VLSD trans? Will it just compress that little bit and work fine?

Also, I just had an idea. Do you think install an extra boot on top of the existing boots could help prevent them from deteriorating, or getting punctured?

CS_AR

I dunno on that one. I suspect the dust shield would rub against the transmission seal or the shaft would bump up against something inside the transmission if the shaft length between the carrier and the transmission was too long.



The boots fit so tight that I don't see how one would cover the other boot.

The OEM boots are clearly thicker and stronger than any other boots that I've seen. Here's a picture of a comparison between a new OEM boot (left) and a new GSP boot.

CS_AR

Here's a picture of the Import Direct over 18 months later. No split outer boot at this point.

KP11520

What the HELL are you doing under that car?


What.... Do you have antz in yer pantz?


LOL

CS_AR

I felt great this afternoon.. I just had to do something with the 98.

Violator

I used an import direct from O'Reilly's on my passenger side a few months ago, no issues I'm happy with it came with a lifetime warranty I'm pretty sure as well

theoman3

Thank U CS_AR....I'm buying Import Direct from O'Reilly + Timken seals from Rock for 2000 SE 5MT +

CS_AR

Be sure to avoid overfilling the transmission lubricant. I made the mistake of having the car jacked up on the front end when I refilled the transmission case. When the front of the vehicle is elevated you get an artificially low lubricant reading compared to when the vehicle is completely level or aiming toward a slight decline. I found an overfilled transmission WILL leak lubricant from the axle seals on the passenger (right) side. This surfaced on the 97 model 5 MT. Problem solved by filling the transmission with the vehicle being level.

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Wow, that's really strange. I would have thought the excess fluid would have been pushed up/out through the vent tube instead of from around the axle seal. If the seals are normally below the fluid level, I don't see how overfilling the trans could cause the fluid to come out around the seals unless the vent tube is clogged and pressure builds up. Got any ideas how or why this happens?

CS_AR

Don't know how but.. Replaced three (3) passenger side seals in the process of figuring out we had been overfilling the transmission. Learned the lesson and moved on.