would you re-surface these rotors?
#1
would you re-surface these rotors?
I'll be doing my front brakes soon and the rotors have some light scoring like this. You can feel it for sure but it doesn't catch your fingernail. Other side is the same.
Just curious if you would resurface/replace or just put in pads.
Just curious if you would resurface/replace or just put in pads.
#2
Depends on how much money you want to spend.
I've installed new pads on rotors which look like that. The braking action was fine after they had a chance to conform to the slight ridges. The pads lasted a long time.
Other people would have the disks resurfaced.
Yet the cost of new acceptable rotors is not all that much more money these days. The car won't be waiting for the rotors to be resurfaced. So you will be able to install the new brake parts quickly.
I've installed new pads on rotors which look like that. The braking action was fine after they had a chance to conform to the slight ridges. The pads lasted a long time.
Other people would have the disks resurfaced.
Yet the cost of new acceptable rotors is not all that much more money these days. The car won't be waiting for the rotors to be resurfaced. So you will be able to install the new brake parts quickly.
Last edited by JvG; 08-15-2018 at 07:22 PM. Reason: Spell check
#4
Yeah I wasn't sure yet about resurfacing vs replacing. If I was going to do something with them I'd consider how much Napa would charge and how long it would take.
But sounds like you were fine just doing pads so I'll probably do that.
But sounds like you were fine just doing pads so I'll probably do that.
#6
My I30 has EBC Ultimax "Blackstruff" pads and Wagner E-coated rotors, and they are awesome
#7
This. If your rotor thickness is too thin as it is, resurfacing is not even an option. And if they're too thin, it's time to replace them IMO. I wouldn't put new pads on rotors that are too thin to take a re-surfacing.
If your rotors have enough meat on them, resurfacing should only cost you $20 at your local Pep Boys. Many people have had good luck simply slapping on new pads and calling it a day. Just bed the new pads in well.
If your rotors have enough meat on them, resurfacing should only cost you $20 at your local Pep Boys. Many people have had good luck simply slapping on new pads and calling it a day. Just bed the new pads in well.
#8
Wow i can go years without replacing rotors. Manual trans + let of gas before braking well ahead let car coast saves gas and brakes.I really don't see people do this. I put 2-3 sets of pads on a set of rotors.
#9
Good luck finding any place that still turns rotors! Many years ago, it was $15 each (here on LI). Can't imagine what they'd charge now.
Decent Rotors at NAPA start at just above $30 each.
And since you also need pads, you might look at rotor/pad kits.
I use this kit and it's a nice stopping power improvement over everything else I've used in 210K miles at a very reasonable total cost: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k660
Decent Rotors at NAPA start at just above $30 each.
And since you also need pads, you might look at rotor/pad kits.
I use this kit and it's a nice stopping power improvement over everything else I've used in 210K miles at a very reasonable total cost: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k660
Last edited by KP11520; 08-16-2018 at 12:48 PM.
#10
On closer inspection the rotors looked better than I thought. The old pads seemed perfectly smooth on the friction surface so I don't think the scoring had any effect.
I just put in new pads and all is good. New ones semi-metallic and are definitely more grabby than the old ones so maybe the old are ceramic?
Is it strange that it look like the inner side of the rotor is thicker than the outer?
Both rotors were the same thickness (21mm) according to my non-digital calipers:
I just put in new pads and all is good. New ones semi-metallic and are definitely more grabby than the old ones so maybe the old are ceramic?
Is it strange that it look like the inner side of the rotor is thicker than the outer?
Both rotors were the same thickness (21mm) according to my non-digital calipers:
#11
I do this too, just slow down in whatever gear I'm in to near idle and then go to neutral. I don't think it's worth the wear on clutch and trans to actually shift down though.
#14
#15
I do too. The reason is that the heat caused glaze and pad deposit's needs to be broken. So the new pads will be able to confirm to the brake disks. Otherwise the new pads will skid over the glazed disk. The brakes would not work well.
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