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New MAF new Crank Sensor, but CEL comes back on after being cleared

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New MAF new Crank Sensor, but CEL comes back on after being cleared

Old 02-10-2019, 12:52 PM
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New MAF new Crank Sensor, but CEL comes back on after being cleared




So I this car will not rev pas 3500rpm, and when it gets close that range, it sounds like thereís gravel in the engine lol. I had been getting codes for a bad MAF and crankshaft sensor (p0100 and p1335 respectively), so I bought both sensors, replaced them, and still the same issue. Used the scanner to clear the codes, but the light came back on about 5 secs after starting the engine. Iíve cleaned the egr tube and iacv recently in case anyone thought that might be the problem. I scanned the car again today and still the same MAF and Crank codes. Iím not sure at this point what the next step is.
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Old 02-10-2019, 01:34 PM
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Clean the MAF harness connector with electrical connector cleaner.

Plug the MAF connector in till it clicks. Do this at least 3 times consecutively ... make sure it clicks.

Did you replace both crank sensors? Your scanner says that the REF circuit is the fault. Did you replace the REF or the POS sensor?
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Old 02-10-2019, 01:40 PM
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I replaced the sensor on the front on the engine under the pulley. Thanks for the advice Iíll give that a try!
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Old 02-10-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink View Post
Clean the MAF harness connector with electrical connector cleaner.

Plug the MAF connector in till it clicks. Do this at least 3 times consecutively ... make sure it clicks.

Did you replace both crank sensors? Your scanner says that the REF circuit is the fault. Did you replace the REF or the POS sensor?
i cleaned the harness as best I could but my connector doesnít click the way it should (unless the release is pressed in and then its inserted) and can be pulled loose easily. Could this be the issue? It seems like itís reading the MAF though as when I unplug the maf harness the car sputters and almost dies.
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Old 02-10-2019, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyStert View Post


i cleaned the harness as best I could but my connector doesnít click the way it should (unless the release is pressed in and then its inserted) and can be pulled loose easily. Could this be the issue? It seems like itís reading the MAF though as when I unplug the maf harness the car sputters and almost dies.
Of course. The connector will have intermittent contact. If you hit a bump, or corner quickly, the electrical connection will come and go.
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Old 02-10-2019, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JvG View Post
Of course. The connector will have intermittent contact. If you hit a bump, or corner quickly, the electrical connection will come and go.
Iíll try to order a replacement. The only doubt I have is that when I did have the codes cleared, the car still didnít rev properly. Also, the crank sensor clipped in fine with no hesitation, but that code will not clear as well. Are the two somehow related? It seems strange that both are having the same problem.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:30 AM
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Did you replace these items with OE Nissan units?

If not, and if you've still got the original crank sensor, clean it up (including the connector plug-in) and reinstall it ... see if that makes any difference as far as the P1335 code goes.

Do the same for the MAF.
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink View Post
Did you replace these items with OE Nissan units?

If not, and if you've still got the original crank sensor, clean it up (including the connector plug-in) and reinstall it ... see if that makes any difference as far as the P1335 code goes.

Do the same for the MAF.
will do this weekend thank you!
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyStert View Post
will do this weekend thank you!
Based on this response, I'm going to assume that the crank sensors and the MAF were replaced with aftermarket parts.

That being the case, what brand(s) are the replacements and/or where did purchase them from?

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Old 02-14-2019, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink View Post
Based on this response, I'm going to assume that the crank sensors and the MAF were replaced with aftermarket parts.

That being the case, what brand(s) are the replacements and/or where did purchase them from?
yup, I work full time and go to school, and school isnít cheap so Iím ballin on a budget. Canít afford OEM, and the aftermarket is a decent alternative. I know some folks donít like the aftermarket stuff but I usually have success. If not then Iíll return it. Not sure the brand, from China no doubt. If these donít work Iíll head to the salvage yard in Burlington one weekend. I live only a couple of miles from school and work so I only put about 20 miles on the car a week as of now. Hopefully Iíll get it figured out soon. Thanks for the help!
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Old 02-15-2019, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyStert View Post
yup, I work full time and go to school, and school isnít cheap so Iím ballin on a budget. Canít afford OEM, and the aftermarket is a decent alternative. I know some folks donít like the aftermarket stuff but I usually have success. If not then Iíll return it. Not sure the brand, from China no doubt. If these donít work Iíll head to the salvage yard in Burlington one weekend. I live only a couple of miles from school and work so I only put about 20 miles on the car a week as of now. Hopefully Iíll get it figured out soon. Thanks for the help!
I wasn't meaning to sound judgy ... apologies if I did.

My point was more that some aftermarket sensors, depending on the brand, can be problematic right outta the box.

Many, including me, have had good luck with sensors from SMP (Standard Motor Products) in their Intermotor line, if you'd like to try those out.

I running Intermotor crank and cam sensors right now with no issues.

They're readily available at most local parts retailers.

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Old 02-15-2019, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbobink View Post
I wasn't meaning to sound judgy ... apologies if I did.

My point was more that some aftermarket sensors, depending on the brand, can be problematic right outta the box.

Many, including me, have had good luck with sensors from SMP (Standard Motor Products) in their Intermotor line, if you'd like to try those out.

I running Intermotor crank and cam sensors right now with no issues.

They're readily available at most local parts retailers.
No offense taken, I was just preparing for the ďyou bought aftermarket thatís your probĒ nonsense I see on here from time to time. Def not the kind of crap you want to hear when frustrated, so apologies for sounding defensive. Iím going to get the multimeter out and check the old n new sensors along with their respective plugs tomorrow, and Iíll post an update.
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Old 02-15-2019, 11:28 AM
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Yeah I buy autozone coils and I think that might make me an outcast But the car keeps runnin! It keeps runnin! Work and back baby!
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Old 02-15-2019, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Shrout1 View Post
Yeah I buy autozone coils and I think that might make me an outcast But the car keeps runnin! It keeps runnin! Work and back baby!
So, essentially you are taking the risk and doing field research for us. It's good to know which aftermarket products hold up in the long term.

Thanks for reporting. I hope your success will last.
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Old 02-16-2019, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JvG View Post
Thanks for reporting. I hope your success will last.
Me too man, me too!!
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Old 03-09-2019, 03:11 PM
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Iím about ready to give up and punt this thing. I changed the air box to a CAI and now the car surges at idle, and when driving it dies anytime you hit the brakes. I tried putting the old box and maf on and it does the same thing. I even changed the wiring harness connector. When the maf is unplugged it idles fine but as soon as you hit the gas it dies. It ran like crap before but at least it got me to school and work. I tested the maf connector as well and it was showing 11.7v. I am bummed out badly right now, as I really need my car and it would be a major financial hit to have to buy another. Any help would be appreciated, but I must say I have little hope at this point.
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Old 03-10-2019, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyStert View Post
Iím about ready to give up and punt this thing. I changed the air box to a CAI and now the car surges at idle, and when driving it dies anytime you hit the brakes. I tried putting the old box and maf on and it does the same thing. I even changed the wiring harness connector. When the maf is unplugged it idles fine but as soon as you hit the gas it dies. It ran like crap before but at least it got me to school and work. I tested the maf connector as well and it was showing 11.7v. I am bummed out badly right now, as I really need my car and it would be a major financial hit to have to buy another. Any help would be appreciated, but I must say I have little hope at this point.
post a couple of videos so we can see what's happening. my 95 had been messed up for months, as much as i like my max, it sure can be a pita at times.
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:11 AM
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Just go to a salvage yard and pick up a used OEM MAF. You can tell by the Nissan label on the MAF if it is OEM. If I can find two good looking (kept in the dry) used OEM MAFS at a salvage yard, I buy both. Usually one is bad and I return it. Since the MAF is easy to change, just replace it on the salvage yard parking lot and return it on the spot if it doesn't fix the problem. When I clean a MAF I usually let it sit for a few hours before using it.

It is interesting the see the number of 4th gens in Salvage yards with aftermarket MAFs and evap lines that are full of charcoal. I think those two items are responsible for sending many 4th gens to the crusher.
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by CS_AR View Post
Just go to a salvage yard and pick up a used OEM MAF. You can tell by the Nissan label on the MAF if it is OEM. If I can find two good looking (kept in the dry) used OEM MAFS at a salvage yard, I buy both. Usually one is bad and I return it. Since the MAF is easy to change, just replace it on the salvage yard parking lot and return it on the spot if it doesn't fix the problem. When I clean a MAF I usually let it sit for a few hours before using it.

It is interesting the see the number of 4th gens in Salvage yards with aftermarket MAFs and evap lines that are full of charcoal. I think those two items are responsible for sending many 4th gens to the crusher.
haven't given up yet, although i've considered it.
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