New MAF new Crank Sensor, but CEL comes back on after being cleared
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 17
New MAF new Crank Sensor, but CEL comes back on after being cleared
So I this car will not rev pas 3500rpm, and when it gets close that range, it sounds like there’s gravel in the engine lol. I had been getting codes for a bad MAF and crankshaft sensor (p0100 and p1335 respectively), so I bought both sensors, replaced them, and still the same issue. Used the scanner to clear the codes, but the light came back on about 5 secs after starting the engine. I’ve cleaned the egr tube and iacv recently in case anyone thought that might be the problem. I scanned the car again today and still the same MAF and Crank codes. I’m not sure at this point what the next step is.
Clean the MAF harness connector with electrical connector cleaner.
Plug the MAF connector in till it clicks. Do this at least 3 times consecutively ... make sure it clicks.
Did you replace both crank sensors? Your scanner says that the REF circuit is the fault. Did you replace the REF or the POS sensor?
Plug the MAF connector in till it clicks. Do this at least 3 times consecutively ... make sure it clicks.
Did you replace both crank sensors? Your scanner says that the REF circuit is the fault. Did you replace the REF or the POS sensor?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 17
Clean the MAF harness connector with electrical connector cleaner.
Plug the MAF connector in till it clicks. Do this at least 3 times consecutively ... make sure it clicks.
Did you replace both crank sensors? Your scanner says that the REF circuit is the fault. Did you replace the REF or the POS sensor?
Plug the MAF connector in till it clicks. Do this at least 3 times consecutively ... make sure it clicks.
Did you replace both crank sensors? Your scanner says that the REF circuit is the fault. Did you replace the REF or the POS sensor?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,974
From: Portland, Oregon
i cleaned the harness as best I could but my connector doesn’t click the way it should (unless the release is pressed in and then its inserted) and can be pulled loose easily. Could this be the issue? It seems like it’s reading the MAF though as when I unplug the maf harness the car sputters and almost dies.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 17
I’ll try to order a replacement. The only doubt I have is that when I did have the codes cleared, the car still didn’t rev properly. Also, the crank sensor clipped in fine with no hesitation, but that code will not clear as well. Are the two somehow related? It seems strange that both are having the same problem.
Did you replace these items with OE Nissan units?
If not, and if you've still got the original crank sensor, clean it up (including the connector plug-in) and reinstall it ... see if that makes any difference as far as the P1335 code goes.
Do the same for the MAF.
If not, and if you've still got the original crank sensor, clean it up (including the connector plug-in) and reinstall it ... see if that makes any difference as far as the P1335 code goes.
Do the same for the MAF.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 17
will do this weekend thank you!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 17
yup, I work full time and go to school, and school isn’t cheap so I’m ballin on a budget. Can’t afford OEM, and the aftermarket is a decent alternative. I know some folks don’t like the aftermarket stuff but I usually have success. If not then I’ll return it. Not sure the brand, from China no doubt. If these don’t work I’ll head to the salvage yard in Burlington one weekend. I live only a couple of miles from school and work so I only put about 20 miles on the car a week as of now. Hopefully I’ll get it figured out soon. Thanks for the help!
yup, I work full time and go to school, and school isn’t cheap so I’m ballin on a budget. Can’t afford OEM, and the aftermarket is a decent alternative. I know some folks don’t like the aftermarket stuff but I usually have success. If not then I’ll return it. Not sure the brand, from China no doubt. If these don’t work I’ll head to the salvage yard in Burlington one weekend. I live only a couple of miles from school and work so I only put about 20 miles on the car a week as of now. Hopefully I’ll get it figured out soon. Thanks for the help!
My point was more that some aftermarket sensors, depending on the brand, can be problematic right outta the box.
Many, including me, have had good luck with sensors from SMP (Standard Motor Products) in their Intermotor line, if you'd like to try those out.
I running Intermotor crank and cam sensors right now with no issues.
They're readily available at most local parts retailers.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 17
I wasn't meaning to sound judgy ... apologies if I did.
My point was more that some aftermarket sensors, depending on the brand, can be problematic right outta the box.
Many, including me, have had good luck with sensors from SMP (Standard Motor Products) in their Intermotor line, if you'd like to try those out.
I running Intermotor crank and cam sensors right now with no issues.
They're readily available at most local parts retailers.
My point was more that some aftermarket sensors, depending on the brand, can be problematic right outta the box.
Many, including me, have had good luck with sensors from SMP (Standard Motor Products) in their Intermotor line, if you'd like to try those out.
I running Intermotor crank and cam sensors right now with no issues.
They're readily available at most local parts retailers.
But the car keeps runnin! It keeps runnin! Work and back baby!
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,974
From: Portland, Oregon
Thanks for reporting. I hope your success will last.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 17
I’m about ready to give up and punt this thing. I changed the air box to a CAI and now the car surges at idle, and when driving it dies anytime you hit the brakes. I tried putting the old box and maf on and it does the same thing. I even changed the wiring harness connector. When the maf is unplugged it idles fine but as soon as you hit the gas it dies. It ran like crap before but at least it got me to school and work. I tested the maf connector as well and it was showing 11.7v. I am bummed out badly right now, as I really need my car and it would be a major financial hit to have to buy another. Any help would be appreciated, but I must say I have little hope at this point.
I’m about ready to give up and punt this thing. I changed the air box to a CAI and now the car surges at idle, and when driving it dies anytime you hit the brakes. I tried putting the old box and maf on and it does the same thing. I even changed the wiring harness connector. When the maf is unplugged it idles fine but as soon as you hit the gas it dies. It ran like crap before but at least it got me to school and work. I tested the maf connector as well and it was showing 11.7v. I am bummed out badly right now, as I really need my car and it would be a major financial hit to have to buy another. Any help would be appreciated, but I must say I have little hope at this point.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 3,037
From: Central AR
Just go to a salvage yard and pick up a used OEM MAF. You can tell by the Nissan label on the MAF if it is OEM. If I can find two good looking (kept in the dry) used OEM MAFS at a salvage yard, I buy both. Usually one is bad and I return it. Since the MAF is easy to change, just replace it on the salvage yard parking lot and return it on the spot if it doesn't fix the problem. When I clean a MAF I usually let it sit for a few hours before using it.
It is interesting the see the number of 4th gens in Salvage yards with aftermarket MAFs and evap lines that are full of charcoal. I think those two items are responsible for sending many 4th gens to the crusher.
It is interesting the see the number of 4th gens in Salvage yards with aftermarket MAFs and evap lines that are full of charcoal. I think those two items are responsible for sending many 4th gens to the crusher.
Just go to a salvage yard and pick up a used OEM MAF. You can tell by the Nissan label on the MAF if it is OEM. If I can find two good looking (kept in the dry) used OEM MAFS at a salvage yard, I buy both. Usually one is bad and I return it. Since the MAF is easy to change, just replace it on the salvage yard parking lot and return it on the spot if it doesn't fix the problem. When I clean a MAF I usually let it sit for a few hours before using it.
It is interesting the see the number of 4th gens in Salvage yards with aftermarket MAFs and evap lines that are full of charcoal. I think those two items are responsible for sending many 4th gens to the crusher.
It is interesting the see the number of 4th gens in Salvage yards with aftermarket MAFs and evap lines that are full of charcoal. I think those two items are responsible for sending many 4th gens to the crusher.
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