She heard you and is acting up. You hurt her feelings.....

 

Update. Just for laughs ran a compression test. All cylinders 175psi but one. 130 psi. Not knowing these engines that well I would say head gasket or a possible burnt valve. Ideas?

 

Her feelings have not yet begun to hurt. Spraypaint a quick target on her hood and dump a couple clips of.300 Blackout

 

Nah, M855/SS109. Those things will zip right through an aluminum block.

 

Oh, and here ya go, from my 2003 manual:

 

I was getting the same p1320 code, did the idle test by unplugging each coil one at a time. Rears had a change in idle for each one, the front, all 3 no change. I replaced them with OEM used coils I got from Smelly Fart here on the Org ( thanks Leonard ) and problem solved. Get OEM coils, you may get anyway with aftermarket but its hit or miss.

Do the balance test I mentioned above and see if you get a change in idle like someone else mentioned above.. the code you're getting is related to coils and nothing else.

 

Sounds like I need to invest in OEM coils and MAF. Anyone know where I can get these without breaking the bank?

 

Coils I have bought before are:

HITACHI IGC0012 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
Right; Actual OE Part; Terminal Quantity: 3; Mount Type: One Bolt; Coil on Plug Ignition; Terminal Gender: Male; Terminal Type: Blade; Voltage: 12


From Rockauto. They are apparently the actual factory part.



Could you find out what brand of coils your son got from Rockauto?



I'm going to look over this thread again tonight to see if anything else comes to mind.

 

Nevermind I was just on a boring call so here's the summary if this thread as I understand it, with three questions:

Issue: Sometimes when braking the idle goes below 500 rpm and it stalls.

Possible solution: clogged Idle Air Control Valve

You cleaned throttle body and iacv. Ran great when you test drove it, wife says it’s acting up again.

Question 1: are you finding then that the issue is intermittent if it ran great for you but not for your wife? Or does it happen all or most of the time?

Codes at this point:
PO320 ignition signal primary
PO110 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit 3.
PO120 Throttle/pedal position switch A.

You replaced MAF with aftermarket
You replaced Ignition condenser

"Still getting PO320 ignition signal primary"

But then you mention "not showing misfire codes but still p1320 code."

Question 2: Can you confirm if the code is P0320 or P1320?

Then you mention: "Just for laughs ran a compression test. All cylinders 175psi but one. 130 psi."

The minimum compression allowed is 142 psi.

Question 3: I'm curious about your intention to buy new coils when it appears you have a cylinder that is physically damaged in some manner?

 

tru dat

 

Havent messed with this car in a while but decided to try again.Pulled intake plenum, fitting on back had no bolts in it. Cleaned out fuel tank,new fuel pump and filter. Blew out fuel lines with compressed air. New Hitachi coils and matched NGK injectors. Issue now is vacuum hoses. Some disconnected from me, some never connected. Where can I get a routing diagram for this car? 1999 Nissan Maxima 3.0 dohc

 

Download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from my signature. It's completely free and should have the vacuum hose diagrams you're looking for.

 

Since your going to do the iacv TB cleaning. It would be better to take off the whole intake plenium the manifold and also the egr this part also gets so dirty jammed up and clogged up with oil dirt that it gums up and it tars up the egr when this happeneds your car will run hotter than normal intake gas flow is clogged air cant get out as it's supposed to and depending on how badly it's clogged up it will throw and SES lights on making your car work harder and your gas mpg will suffer badly as much the air will go in it will need to also go back out to minimize engine heat and engine wear and tear and that heat build up cause valve covers rockers to get hot and start oil leaks faster than normal wear and tear time.

 

The valve cover gaskets on the valve cover rocker will melt and go bad asap due to heat and wear and tear and also the coil packs can short due to heat and heat is your cars #1 enemy.

 

ok. New update. New NGK coils and plugs. New fuel injectors and upper plenum gaskets. Still has a weird miss and when I unplug scan tool it shuts off. Will not start unless scan tool plugged in. It is a cheap one. Starting to think ecm might be bad. Car sat through a hurricane and a couple tropical storms but didn't get wet inside. Ideas?

 

Ngk coils its still not oem but however its still an japan or chinese parts but it's not oem hanshin or Mitsubishi coils which what Nissan and the oem dealerships recommend. I advice you to try to get some codes scan and check the ses codes or if you don't have an visible ses light in you might have an stores ghost codes such as knock sensor or other like that code that are stored and not showing up as ses light on the dashboard.
check the mad intake box air filter than try it again.

 

Did find something very interesting. MAP sensor is not connected. Its plugged in but no hoses going to it. Going to pull ECM tonight and check for moisture and corrosion

 

The Map sensor and the intake box and the elbow has to have breather hose connected for the car to actually start the map sensor is not sensing the airflow in the box where the sensor is when it starts it needs the air to flow in the intake box and into the iat sensor and the map sensor the vaccum hose and lines will not let the car run or start or even run if its running it will cut of when its running or if it's running the the air needs to flow into the throttle body from the elbow intake box .

 

I hope this doesnt post twice but I really need an answer. I found the MAP sensor, not hooked to anything, and I found the MAP/Baro switch, also not hooked to anything. I have a vac diagram but I don't understand what vacuum gallery A is. In other words where does it hook to vacuum? Any help or better yet pics would be appreciated.

 

You should be able to download the Factory Service Manual from several individuals on this forum that provide links to it. From that, you should be able to find out the details of what goes where.