98 i30, 128k. this is the best daily I have.

I used to order from "orderinfinitiparts.com" out of South (North?) Carolina...but they are not selling online anymore. Where's the favorite place these days for Infiniti OEM?

Per the shop: the drivers side tie rod end is loose, and I can see that the inner rod boot is broken. I figure I'll buy replacement Inside and Outside tie rod ends for both sides since I also need...brake pads & rotors.

Do you think I should order some/all of these parts from somewhere like "infinitipartsonline.com" - or from Rock Auto?

Rock Auto:

Moog EV352 inner tie rod ends x2
Moog ES3438 outer tie rod ends x2
Moog K9860 "rack and pinion bellow" x2

Brakes - there are several different rotor and pad kits @ RockAuto by names like Centric, PowerStop, and Durago. Anyone have recent experience with any these?

Or...is it still better to buy these types of parts OEM ? The price difference is compelling (especially on the brake parts...$90 for a single OEM front rotor, compared with $150 for a complete replacement kit front and rear...

Sorry to act like a n00b but I've had some work issues (like "unemployment") to deal with recently that are making my brain hurt / limiting my ability to concentrate on 20 year old NisMoCo product problems. These "issues" are also putting a squeeze on my wallet so...you know.

Any useful help is appreciated as always.

BrianA in Houston

 

there was a post here not so long ago (with pictures) from a guy who bought all-new OEM rotors and brake pads...i can't remember his name or find the post, anybody got it ?

looking again re: brakes - maybe I need Akebono pads and...OEM rotors ?

 

All the aftermarket rack bellows suck. Go with OEM.I was beyond disappointed with the Beck/Arnleys.

Moog Inner and Outer TRs are as good as it gets. Make sure you have the inner removal/install tool and if you can't bend the locker ring on, use thread locker.

I use the Powerstop pad and rotor kit. Better stopping by a decent margin than anything before. But not as quiet as I'd like. I guess that's the trade off. And you can't turn these rotors, so if you score them. you should replace them when doing pads. Rock Auto has good prices on these and sell individual rotors if they get damaged.

Make sure all your calipers are free moving (including the emergency brake mechanism) and replace in pairs if any aren't. I'd also upgrade all 4 brake hoses to:
And flush out every last drop of brake fluid with fresh and bed and bleed well. Get 4 new brake hose horse shoe clips too.

Have fun and don't forget the alignment after the tie rods.

 

Your Infiniti is basically a glorified Maxima.
So you will find much more stuff if you search for Maxima parts.

I've found that Centric rotors are ok.

Akibono makes good pads. They are an oem supplier for many cars built in the USA and Japan.

 

Is that a precise part number for my 1998 A32 or was that just an example?

 

https://www.infinitipartsonline.com/...MtMGwtdjYtZ2Fz

$38.37 a boot is Proud for sure...can you confirm that they are really the same L & R as shown in the link above ?

 

Clips for the hoses like this?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...05098&jsn=2931

 

I don't know what this last part "if you can't bend the locker ring on" means. "Use thread locker" - you mean like red Loc-Tite?

re: the tool: which tool?


or this one


or this one (a deluxe version of the one above):


or...?

 

Harbor Freight has a decent inner TR tool kit for $40 IIRC, minus the usual 20% off coupons. Worked GREAT on mine. You need a torque wrench too(1/2" drive). https://www.harborfreight.com/inner-...set-63705.html

You can use blue or red thread locker. There is a ring that comes with each Inner TR. It locks the TR from loosening, but access to the area that needs to be bent in isn't always convenient. Thread locker will cover you if you can't get in there. You'll see when you get them. There are some videos on YT. Look for Maxima vids if there are no Infinity versions. The parts and install are exactly the same. IDENTICAL!

Those are the brake hose clips and those are the hoses (22133) for our cars. The Infinity/Nissan bellows are the ones that will last the longest before cracking open. They are worth it because of that. My nice looking Beck/Arnley bellows didn't last a year! Glad you found a place that can still get them as they are at the end of their stock. Tasca might have them at a lower price. Do a Google search on the correct bellow part number and see where the lowest price delivered is. I wish I did.

As far as the correct bellow part number... They are the same both sides. Some Infinity and Nissan places let you use your VIN number to see if the part numbers are correct. I'd use that for the bellows.

 

The FSM (ST-21, Step 17) specifies "Apply locking sealant to inner socket threads".

Blue, or Red ?

I'm thinking "Blue".

 

I used Red, as a breaker bar on the removal tool will release either. So whatever you're comfortable with. There isn't much to cause twisting of the locking part of the nut when driving.

 

It was THIS GUY:

https://maxima.org/forums/infiniti-i...-t-5spd-2.html

 

These are the part numbers for rotors, pads, and hardware kit.
Front rotors: 40206-2L903
Fronts pads: DA06M-2Y991
Front hardware kit: 41080-6M026
Rear rotors: 43206-4U001
Rear pads: 44060-7E690
Rear hardware kit: 44080-54C29

 

thanks everyone - I am about to begin the job

"Where in the FSM is removal/installation of front and rear ROTORS detailed"? the BRakes section doesn't mention the details of replacing the ROTORS - only "inspecting" them

i haven't done this before on this particular car and I'm not seeing it in my mind's eye (before actually looking at it)

thanks in advance
i am literally heading back outside now to continue jacking the car up

 

Never mind - they just kind of fall off the hub once the caliper’s off huh?

 

Yup.

It looks like they were originalky attatched with screws. My screws were missing. No need to replace them.
​​​

 

thanks. Am I supposed to lube or otherwise grease the hub before re-installing the new rotors? i realize the rotor is locked to the hub by the lug nuts, I'm just asking...

I wish I could see a better blown-up picture of what a fully-loaded caliper is supposed to look like (the pads are keyed inboard/outboard, including with the two pieces of hardware and the "leaf" spring, AS WELL AS ALL THE LUBE POINTS...there's a small Power Stop drawing on the included package of lube but its small and I'm not 100% sure what I'm supposed to be doing...

I am installing new Brembo rotors (09525410 front / 08806511 rear) with Power Stop pads ( Z23540 front/ Z23450 rear) on new Power Stop calipers (S1218 front / S2000 rear) as well as Goodridge 22133 stainless brake lines. I think I will have extra parts left over a) because the calipers and the pads both included the same pad hardware and b) because the calipers included a single crush washer, whereas the brake lines included eight washers - four of which will not be used (only one crush washer at each end of the brake line, right?)

I guess I will start by FLUSHING the old fluid out of the OLD assembled calipers (using a hand-held vacuum pump/bleeder tool) - Drivers Front, Passenger's Front, Driver's Rear, Passenger's Rear.

Then I think I'll disassemble one of the calipers to see how it was put together - and then mock up a fully-loaded caliper, including hardware, pads, and line...once I figure out how to put that together 100% with the appropriate lube points I'll "simply disconnect the old brake line at the top of the wheel well and "reconnect the new fully loaded caliper in its place". Right?

 

Just do a search on you tube.

(your year) Nissan Maxima brakes.

watch the videos. Do what they do.

I've done lots of work by watching you tube.

I'll even put my phone or tablet next to the part I'm working on.

 

I am having trouble installing the front pads into their calipers ALONG WITH THEIR RETURN SPRINGS. The return springs are v-shaped pieces that slip into holes in the pads, they ride above the circumference of the pad (at the top of, and inside, the caliper).

Is it necessary to DISASSEMBLE the two parts of the caliper in order to correctly install these springs ?

Or is it possible to install the pads with springs WITHOUT disassembling the calipers?

I surely got the old pads with springs out of the old caliper - but they have no meat on them, so there was a lot more space between the pads (where the rotor goes) than with this new hardware.


this is how the springs are supposed to ride - INSIDE the caliper of course

these are the springs installed on the pads

this is a half-*** attempt to install both pads with springs into the assembled caliper. the springs fall out of the pad holes (because it's upside down, right)

 

I think that those clips are there to keep the pads from falling out of the loaded caliper during shipment.

I've done brake pad replacements on many cars over the years. I have never installed loaded calipers. So I have never seen those clips.

I have rebuilt calipers before. The kits replace the rubber parts. The piston needs to be replaced occasionally. The rebuild kits never include those clips.

Please put the clips into the nearest trash can.

Be sure to watch the you tube videos I mentioned.

 

I made two calls to Powerstop. Then one of their more senior guys called me back, kind of on his own.

He described needing to take the two sides of the caliper apart (even though they're marked with paint re: factory installation). Mount the inside part to the knuckle, then the inside pads, then the rotor and then finally the outside pad/outer caliper (re-lubing the main pin before installation).

So my words now: essentially building the brake assembly like a cake from the inside out / "building a cake sideways".

That wasn't what I was planning on (I thought I would install a 100% loaded caliper onto the knuckle) but doing but it the other way may be the only way to make it all happen.

JvG - I see you say to throw the return springs away, and I also see other posts advising that other pad brands like Hawk don't even have the holes for the pad return springs.

For this job: the springs came with both the pads and the calipers - they're also shown in the FSM. I plan to use them if possible.

This is turning out to be harder than I expected but I'm in it to win it.

BrianA in Houston

 

WATCH THE YOU TUBE VIDEOS LIKE I TOLD YOU TO.

You are making an easy task very difficult for your self.

 

The clips are NOT "brake return springs"

they are only there to keep the pads from falling out during shipping. They serve no other function. They are meant to be discarded before sliding the brake disk between the two brake pads.

that's why I told you to toss them in the trash can.
​​

 

JvG - the springs were already installed on the old calipers/pads that I removed from the car.

They are labeled #19, "Pad return spring", on Page BR-13 of the FSM

 

I got this done.

I realize reading my posts above that I appear colossally un-informed. “It’s not possible to load a caliper without disassembling it (one pin bolt for fronts, both pin bolts for backs)” was what I needed to hear.

Yes, watching the YouTube helped. It’s a trivial matter to install the front pad return springs when the caliper is Open.

Also in my bleeding procedure above I got it 100% wrong: it’s supposed to be Passenger Rear, Driver’s Front, then Driver’s Rear, Passenger Front.

 

 

It looks like you have some nice GG friction coefficient rated pads there. Care to share the brand and model?

 

Power Stop pads ( Z23540front/ Z23450 rear)

 

Nice.. How do you like them?

 

I like them fine.

Nothing un-usual to report re: brake performance = fine w me.