1995 GLE random stalls, random rough startup?
02-26-2020, 09:09 PM
#41
A bad FPR would definitely cause a hard start issue (when warm). I once had a bad FPR that caused my Max to shut off while driving. I pulled off to the side of road and the car would not restart. It would only start after the car completely cooled down.
I've also had a bad ECTS do the exact same thing to me.
I've also had a bad ECTS do the exact same thing to me.
03-01-2020, 10:27 PM
#42
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Zerodrag,
Yes, I was thinking that a ruptured diaphragm in the fpr would cause loss of pressure, or flooding conditions. The presence of gas or fumes in the vacuum line would be an indication.
I want to eliminate fuel leakage as the cause of his problems . So I'm thinking fpr and injector leakage could be a cause. But possibly not after the tests.
Feel free to disagree. Thanks.
Yes, I was thinking that a ruptured diaphragm in the fpr would cause loss of pressure, or flooding conditions. The presence of gas or fumes in the vacuum line would be an indication.
I want to eliminate fuel leakage as the cause of his problems . So I'm thinking fpr and injector leakage could be a cause. But possibly not after the tests.
Feel free to disagree. Thanks.
A bad FPR would definitely cause a hard start issue (when warm). I once had a bad FPR that caused my Max to shut off while driving. I pulled off to the side of road and the car would not restart. It would only start after the car completely cooled down.
I've also had a bad ECTS do the exact same thing to me.
I've also had a bad ECTS do the exact same thing to me.
03-01-2020, 10:37 PM
#43
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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You were asked to test it. Not remove it
I asked if there is gasoline or gas fumes in the vacuum line. If there is gas there, it's being sucked past a broken diaphragm inside the fpr.
If there is NOT gas or gas fumes in the vacuum line we can probably assume that the diaphragm and the fpr is OK and does not need to be replaced.
The real test is does the system retain fuel pressure. There is a test for that. Instructions would be in the factory service manual.
I asked if there is gasoline or gas fumes in the vacuum line. If there is gas there, it's being sucked past a broken diaphragm inside the fpr.
If there is NOT gas or gas fumes in the vacuum line we can probably assume that the diaphragm and the fpr is OK and does not need to be replaced.
The real test is does the system retain fuel pressure. There is a test for that. Instructions would be in the factory service manual.
03-02-2020, 06:46 PM
#44
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You were asked to test it. Not remove it
I asked if there is gasoline or gas fumes in the vacuum line. If there is gas there, it's being sucked past a broken diaphragm inside the fpr.
If there is NOT gas or gas fumes in the vacuum line we can probably assume that the diaphragm and the fpr is OK and does not need to be replaced.
The real test is does the system retain fuel pressure. There is a test for that. Instructions would be in the factory service manual.
I asked if there is gasoline or gas fumes in the vacuum line. If there is gas there, it's being sucked past a broken diaphragm inside the fpr.
If there is NOT gas or gas fumes in the vacuum line we can probably assume that the diaphragm and the fpr is OK and does not need to be replaced.
The real test is does the system retain fuel pressure. There is a test for that. Instructions would be in the factory service manual.
03-02-2020, 06:58 PM
#45
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the fpr is bad if there is gasoline or gasoline smell in the vacuum line.
As I have said at least twice before, slide the vacuum line from the fpr and sniff the hole in it.
03-02-2020, 07:13 PM
#46
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Update: I took off the correct hose (I assume)
I gave it a good whiff, and it smelled faintly like gas fumes, nothing overwhelming, but it was there. Shortly after though, the smell dissipated, and now it doesn’t smell too differently than the rest of the engine.
03-02-2020, 09:16 PM
#47
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Yes, that's the hose I meant.
When was the last time the car ran?
We all learn things by research and trying new things. It's difficult and overwhelming at first, then gets easier after a while.
it helps up if we know how experienced a member might be.
When was the last time the car ran?
We all learn things by research and trying new things. It's difficult and overwhelming at first, then gets easier after a while.
it helps up if we know how experienced a member might be.
03-02-2020, 10:50 PM
#48
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Car last ran 2 days ago (sunday)
03-06-2020, 05:59 PM
#51
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Hey, I did the sniff test again today and definitely smelled gas fumes! I guess that’s good? :/ haha, what’s the next step?
03-06-2020, 06:37 PM
#52
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I'd say the next experiment would be to start the car after its good and cold. Shut it off. Wait a minute, then repete the sniff test. I would replace the fpr if the vacuum hose still smells gassy.
03-07-2020, 01:04 PM
#53
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Now open the oil filler cap and sniff it. It might also smell gassy. That mean's that excess gas has entered the oil pan. If it smells, change the oil.
I'd say the next experiment would be to start the car after its good and cold. Shut it off. Wait a minute, then repete the sniff test. I would replace the fpr if the vacuum hose still smells gassy.
I'd say the next experiment would be to start the car after its good and cold. Shut it off. Wait a minute, then repete the sniff test. I would replace the fpr if the vacuum hose still smells gassy.
03-08-2020, 01:06 PM
#54
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Now open the oil filler cap and sniff it. It might also smell gassy. That mean's that excess gas has entered the oil pan. If it smells, change the oil.
I'd say the next experiment would be to start the car after its good and cold. Shut it off. Wait a minute, then repete the sniff test. I would replace the fpr if the vacuum hose still smells gassy.
I'd say the next experiment would be to start the car after its good and cold. Shut it off. Wait a minute, then repete the sniff test. I would replace the fpr if the vacuum hose still smells gassy.
03-08-2020, 01:22 PM
#55
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Thus far we have been diagnosing possible fuel pressure drop by symptoms.
The next step is by measurement.
I've diagnosed by measurement on completely different mechanical injection cars. It involved hooking up a meter in a certain way.
Please do some research regarding how this is done on our cars. I understand that auto parts stores rent the meter.
Please give us instructions and photos when you do this.
There should be a desired fuel pressure. You can look that up. Compare that number to what the car does.
The most important thing to do is to look for fuel pressure drop over time. Pressure should hold fairly steady for a certain amount of time. If it does, your fpr and injectors are good. If not, you need to find what to fix.
The next step is by measurement.
I've diagnosed by measurement on completely different mechanical injection cars. It involved hooking up a meter in a certain way.
Please do some research regarding how this is done on our cars. I understand that auto parts stores rent the meter.
Please give us instructions and photos when you do this.
There should be a desired fuel pressure. You can look that up. Compare that number to what the car does.
The most important thing to do is to look for fuel pressure drop over time. Pressure should hold fairly steady for a certain amount of time. If it does, your fpr and injectors are good. If not, you need to find what to fix.
Last edited by JvG; 03-08-2020 at 02:43 PM.
03-08-2020, 05:04 PM
#56
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Thus far we have been diagnosing possible fuel pressure drop by symptoms.
The next step is by measurement.
I've diagnosed by measurement on completely different mechanical injection cars. It involved hooking up a meter in a certain way.
Please do some research regarding how this is done on our cars. I understand that auto parts stores rent the meter.
Please give us instructions and photos when you do this.
There should be a desired fuel pressure. You can look that up. Compare that number to what the car does.
The most important thing to do is to look for fuel pressure drop over time. Pressure should hold fairly steady for a certain amount of time. If it does, your fpr and injectors are good. If not, you need to find what to fix.
The next step is by measurement.
I've diagnosed by measurement on completely different mechanical injection cars. It involved hooking up a meter in a certain way.
Please do some research regarding how this is done on our cars. I understand that auto parts stores rent the meter.
Please give us instructions and photos when you do this.
There should be a desired fuel pressure. You can look that up. Compare that number to what the car does.
The most important thing to do is to look for fuel pressure drop over time. Pressure should hold fairly steady for a certain amount of time. If it does, your fpr and injectors are good. If not, you need to find what to fix.
03-08-2020, 06:09 PM
#57
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You tested the fpr. Does not leak it seems.
Next step is to remove the spark plugs. Sniff each one for gas. The stinky one would have a bad injector is the cylinder it came from.
Keep the plugs in order and post a clear photo of the electrodes. The spark plug which comes from the cylinder with a leaking injector might look different than the others and also smell of gasoline more than the others.
Last edited by JvG; 03-08-2020 at 09:14 PM.
03-09-2020, 07:18 PM
#58
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That tells us that an injector is leaking.
You tested the fpr. Does not leak it seems.
Next step is to remove the spark plugs. Sniff each one for gas. The stinky one would have a bad injector is the cylinder it came from.
Keep the plugs in order and post a clear photo of the electrodes. The spark plug which comes from the cylinder with a leaking injector might look different than the others and also smell of gasoline more than the others.
You tested the fpr. Does not leak it seems.
Next step is to remove the spark plugs. Sniff each one for gas. The stinky one would have a bad injector is the cylinder it came from.
Keep the plugs in order and post a clear photo of the electrodes. The spark plug which comes from the cylinder with a leaking injector might look different than the others and also smell of gasoline more than the others.
The two “gassiest” smelling plugs actually came from the back (closest to the firewall) set.
I pulled the coil packs out to show which ones stunk the most
This is the first one (closest to the passenger side). I’m not sure how well the picture shows, but this one (along with the next) has a visible “wetness” to it, that doesn’t look like grease.
Again, you can see, the spark plug itself is fine (no cracks in the ceramic, gap isn’t too bad (I didn’t check the specs but it seemed to look okay), but that visible wetness is still there, especially at the base of the hexagon.
Not mentioned in the photos, there’s also a funky burned smell mostly coming from the coil packs on these plugs, but also is noticeable on the plug itself. All of the other plugs didn’t smell nearly this gassy, and also didn’t have the “liquid” residue on them. They did all look about this dirty though. It’s sort of a black crumbly grease that wipes off, not sure if that’s important to note or not. But yeah! That’s pretty much it. Any thoughts?
03-09-2020, 09:53 PM
#59
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I think we have found the problem.
You have two leaking fuel injectors in the cylinders with the stinky plugs which look or feel different than the others.
Leaking fuel injectors are an epidemic now since our cars are 20-25 years old. The plastic retainer clips on the injector's crack, then they will leak extra gas. That lowers fuel pressure, causing stalling and hard starting.
You will need to replace them or have them rebuilt.
they can be rebuilt by Injector RX in Houston or other places. Send them priority express through the post office. 7 dollars or so postage. They charge about 18 bucks each, and do a great job. I had them do mine. Have all 3 rears ones done now. The other injectors will fail soon.
You will need to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the injectors. You should replace the rear valve cover gasket, and remove and clean out the egr tube which looks like a door handle and the egr housing while you are at it. Check the knock sensor for cracks.
This is admittantly a cluster cluck. One we all will experience sooner or later.
instructions can be found on our forum by searching.
The whole fluster cluck might cost 200-250 for all 6 injectors, and gaskets. . Provided that you do your own labor.
The good news is that we know what the problem is.
Don't continue to drive like this or you will ruin your cat.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
You have two leaking fuel injectors in the cylinders with the stinky plugs which look or feel different than the others.
Leaking fuel injectors are an epidemic now since our cars are 20-25 years old. The plastic retainer clips on the injector's crack, then they will leak extra gas. That lowers fuel pressure, causing stalling and hard starting.
You will need to replace them or have them rebuilt.
they can be rebuilt by Injector RX in Houston or other places. Send them priority express through the post office. 7 dollars or so postage. They charge about 18 bucks each, and do a great job. I had them do mine. Have all 3 rears ones done now. The other injectors will fail soon.
You will need to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the injectors. You should replace the rear valve cover gasket, and remove and clean out the egr tube which looks like a door handle and the egr housing while you are at it. Check the knock sensor for cracks.
This is admittantly a cluster cluck. One we all will experience sooner or later.
instructions can be found on our forum by searching.
The whole fluster cluck might cost 200-250 for all 6 injectors, and gaskets. . Provided that you do your own labor.
The good news is that we know what the problem is.
Don't continue to drive like this or you will ruin your cat.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Last edited by JvG; 03-09-2020 at 09:56 PM.
03-09-2020, 11:57 PM
#60
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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I want you to do one more experiment to confirm bad injectors on those two cylinders.
1. Start the car, notice the rpm on the tach. Write it down.
2 Please remove the connecter to one of the injectors if you can reach it. Otherwise remove the coil connector.
3. Start the car. Record the rpm. I don't expect it to change much.
4. Reinstall the connector.
5. Remove connection for the other suspect one.
record rpm. I don't expect much change.
6. Repeat the procedure for the last one on that side. This time I DO expect a bigger difference.
7. Do the same for the other side of the engine.
disconnect injector for those. Again, I DO expect a noticeable drop in RPM.
The cylinders which don't drop rpm much aren't running right. Most likely because they are flooded.
The excess unburned gas is squeezed past the piston rings, then into the oil pan. That is why the oil smells like gas.
1. Start the car, notice the rpm on the tach. Write it down.
2 Please remove the connecter to one of the injectors if you can reach it. Otherwise remove the coil connector.
3. Start the car. Record the rpm. I don't expect it to change much.
4. Reinstall the connector.
5. Remove connection for the other suspect one.
record rpm. I don't expect much change.
6. Repeat the procedure for the last one on that side. This time I DO expect a bigger difference.
7. Do the same for the other side of the engine.
disconnect injector for those. Again, I DO expect a noticeable drop in RPM.
The cylinders which don't drop rpm much aren't running right. Most likely because they are flooded.
The excess unburned gas is squeezed past the piston rings, then into the oil pan. That is why the oil smells like gas.
03-10-2020, 12:43 AM
#61
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 32
I want you to do one more experiment to confirm bad injectors on those two cylinders.
1. Start the car, notice the rpm on the tach. Write it down.
2 Please remove the connecter to one of the injectors if you can reach it. Otherwise remove the coil connector.
3. Start the car. Record the rpm. I don't expect it to change much.
4. Reinstall the connector.
5. Remove connection for the other suspect one.
record rpm. I don't expect much change.
6. Repeat the procedure for the last one on that side. This time I DO expect a bigger difference.
7. Do the same for the other side of the engine.
disconnect injector for those. Again, I DO expect a noticeable drop in RPM.
The cylinders which don't drop rpm much aren't running right. Most likely because they are flooded.
The excess unburned gas is squeezed past the piston rings, then into the oil pan. That is why the oil smells like gas.
1. Start the car, notice the rpm on the tach. Write it down.
2 Please remove the connecter to one of the injectors if you can reach it. Otherwise remove the coil connector.
3. Start the car. Record the rpm. I don't expect it to change much.
4. Reinstall the connector.
5. Remove connection for the other suspect one.
record rpm. I don't expect much change.
6. Repeat the procedure for the last one on that side. This time I DO expect a bigger difference.
7. Do the same for the other side of the engine.
disconnect injector for those. Again, I DO expect a noticeable drop in RPM.
The cylinders which don't drop rpm much aren't running right. Most likely because they are flooded.
The excess unburned gas is squeezed past the piston rings, then into the oil pan. That is why the oil smells like gas.
I think we have found the problem.
You have two leaking fuel injectors in the cylinders with the stinky plugs which look or feel different than the others.
Leaking fuel injectors are an epidemic now since our cars are 20-25 years old. The plastic retainer clips on the injector's crack, then they will leak extra gas. That lowers fuel pressure, causing stalling and hard starting.
You will need to replace them or have them rebuilt.
they can be rebuilt by Injector RX in Houston or other places. Send them priority express through the post office. 7 dollars or so postage. They charge about 18 bucks each, and do a great job. I had them do mine. Have all 3 rears ones done now. The other injectors will fail soon.
You will need to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the injectors. You should replace the rear valve cover gasket, and remove and clean out the egr tube which looks like a door handle and the egr housing while you are at it. Check the knock sensor for cracks.
This is admittantly a cluster cluck. One we all will experience sooner or later.
instructions can be found on our forum by searching.
The whole fluster cluck might cost 200-250 for all 6 injectors, and gaskets. . Provided that you do your own labor.
The good news is that we know what the problem is.
Don't continue to drive like this or you will ruin your cat.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
You have two leaking fuel injectors in the cylinders with the stinky plugs which look or feel different than the others.
Leaking fuel injectors are an epidemic now since our cars are 20-25 years old. The plastic retainer clips on the injector's crack, then they will leak extra gas. That lowers fuel pressure, causing stalling and hard starting.
You will need to replace them or have them rebuilt.
they can be rebuilt by Injector RX in Houston or other places. Send them priority express through the post office. 7 dollars or so postage. They charge about 18 bucks each, and do a great job. I had them do mine. Have all 3 rears ones done now. The other injectors will fail soon.
You will need to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the injectors. You should replace the rear valve cover gasket, and remove and clean out the egr tube which looks like a door handle and the egr housing while you are at it. Check the knock sensor for cracks.
This is admittantly a cluster cluck. One we all will experience sooner or later.
instructions can be found on our forum by searching.
The whole fluster cluck might cost 200-250 for all 6 injectors, and gaskets. . Provided that you do your own labor.
The good news is that we know what the problem is.
Don't continue to drive like this or you will ruin your cat.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
03-10-2020, 12:56 AM
#62
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 32
I want you to do one more experiment to confirm bad injectors on those two cylinders.
1. Start the car, notice the rpm on the tach. Write it down.
2 Please remove the connecter to one of the injectors if you can reach it. Otherwise remove the coil connector.
3. Start the car. Record the rpm. I don't expect it to change much.
4. Reinstall the connector.
5. Remove connection for the other suspect one.
record rpm. I don't expect much change.
6. Repeat the procedure for the last one on that side. This time I DO expect a bigger difference.
7. Do the same for the other side of the engine.
disconnect injector for those. Again, I DO expect a noticeable drop in RPM.
The cylinders which don't drop rpm much aren't running right. Most likely because they are flooded.
The excess unburned gas is squeezed past the piston rings, then into the oil pan. That is why the oil smells like gas.
1. Start the car, notice the rpm on the tach. Write it down.
2 Please remove the connecter to one of the injectors if you can reach it. Otherwise remove the coil connector.
3. Start the car. Record the rpm. I don't expect it to change much.
4. Reinstall the connector.
5. Remove connection for the other suspect one.
record rpm. I don't expect much change.
6. Repeat the procedure for the last one on that side. This time I DO expect a bigger difference.
7. Do the same for the other side of the engine.
disconnect injector for those. Again, I DO expect a noticeable drop in RPM.
The cylinders which don't drop rpm much aren't running right. Most likely because they are flooded.
The excess unburned gas is squeezed past the piston rings, then into the oil pan. That is why the oil smells like gas.
1: How do i know what injector to remove?
2: Should i just remove the coil packs instead?
This is the fuel injecor i should remove?
03-10-2020, 12:59 AM
#63
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 32
I want you to do one more experiment to confirm bad injectors on those two cylinders.
1. Start the car, notice the rpm on the tach. Write it down.
2 Please remove the connecter to one of the injectors if you can reach it. Otherwise remove the coil connector.
3. Start the car. Record the rpm. I don't expect it to change much.
4. Reinstall the connector.
5. Remove connection for the other suspect one.
record rpm. I don't expect much change.
6. Repeat the procedure for the last one on that side. This time I DO expect a bigger difference.
7. Do the same for the other side of the engine.
disconnect injector for those. Again, I DO expect a noticeable drop in RPM.
The cylinders which don't drop rpm much aren't running right. Most likely because they are flooded.
The excess unburned gas is squeezed past the piston rings, then into the oil pan. That is why the oil smells like gas.
1. Start the car, notice the rpm on the tach. Write it down.
2 Please remove the connecter to one of the injectors if you can reach it. Otherwise remove the coil connector.
3. Start the car. Record the rpm. I don't expect it to change much.
4. Reinstall the connector.
5. Remove connection for the other suspect one.
record rpm. I don't expect much change.
6. Repeat the procedure for the last one on that side. This time I DO expect a bigger difference.
7. Do the same for the other side of the engine.
disconnect injector for those. Again, I DO expect a noticeable drop in RPM.
The cylinders which don't drop rpm much aren't running right. Most likely because they are flooded.
The excess unburned gas is squeezed past the piston rings, then into the oil pan. That is why the oil smells like gas.
03-10-2020, 01:27 AM
#64
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
The second post I sent you today or yesterday depending on time zone might have contradicted the first one.
the concept is to leave the injector in place. Reinstall the metal cap. Leave the connector off.
then start the car, note the amount of rpm drop.
The injector failure will not set a code, or at least an injector code. But it might set other codes.
The tip of the injectors start leaking. But the electrical portion is just fine. So the ecu thinks that all is well. So no injector code.
Since the leaking tip is the problem , while the electrical portion I'd ok, it's possible to have it rebuilt for 18 dollars.
All the injectors will fail sooner or later. So I tell everyone who needs to replace injectors under the intake manifold to replace all three at once. Which gets expensive if buying brand new ones, but 3 rebuilt ones are 54 buck's or so.
Our forum is searchable. You will find other posts by other members who have done the repair. I believe that CS-AR had a very good post about this.
Someday someone will see this exchange between you and i. The concept is pay it foreward. I've learned a lot by reading posts of those who had issues ten or 15 years ago.
the concept is to leave the injector in place. Reinstall the metal cap. Leave the connector off.
then start the car, note the amount of rpm drop.
The injector failure will not set a code, or at least an injector code. But it might set other codes.
The tip of the injectors start leaking. But the electrical portion is just fine. So the ecu thinks that all is well. So no injector code.
Since the leaking tip is the problem , while the electrical portion I'd ok, it's possible to have it rebuilt for 18 dollars.
All the injectors will fail sooner or later. So I tell everyone who needs to replace injectors under the intake manifold to replace all three at once. Which gets expensive if buying brand new ones, but 3 rebuilt ones are 54 buck's or so.
Our forum is searchable. You will find other posts by other members who have done the repair. I believe that CS-AR had a very good post about this.
Someday someone will see this exchange between you and i. The concept is pay it foreward. I've learned a lot by reading posts of those who had issues ten or 15 years ago.
03-10-2020, 01:32 AM
#65
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
As you probably know, Priority Express packages get shipped by airmail. So should you decide to have Injector RX in Houston Texas rebuild the injectors, the turn around time shouldn't be much longer from Hawaii than from the mainland states.
I sent mine in from Portland on a Monday, and received them by Friday.
I sent mine in from Portland on a Monday, and received them by Friday.
03-10-2020, 01:52 AM
#67
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Thus far, I've asked you to test parts rather than remove them .
like the vaccum hose from the fpr, or only the connector from the injectors you can reach.
You went ahead and tried to remove the fpr and the injector. Please don't do that until the tests are completed.
My method of testing stuff in place saves a lot of unneeded work, and only known defective parts get replaced. That saves you $$$.
again, we want to compare rpm drop of suspected bad injectors to rpm drop of still good injectors.
the suspected bad ones won't drop rpm as much as the good ones. The suspect bad ones most likely come from the same cyl as the stinky plugs.
So if we really do confirm that a stinky plug and an injector which causes less rpm drop come from the same cyl, we get a double confirmation of a bad injector.
like the vaccum hose from the fpr, or only the connector from the injectors you can reach.
You went ahead and tried to remove the fpr and the injector. Please don't do that until the tests are completed.
My method of testing stuff in place saves a lot of unneeded work, and only known defective parts get replaced. That saves you $$$.
again, we want to compare rpm drop of suspected bad injectors to rpm drop of still good injectors.
the suspected bad ones won't drop rpm as much as the good ones. The suspect bad ones most likely come from the same cyl as the stinky plugs.
So if we really do confirm that a stinky plug and an injector which causes less rpm drop come from the same cyl, we get a double confirmation of a bad injector.
03-10-2020, 01:17 PM
#68
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
You asked why one would rebuild vs buy new injectors.
1. Go to the Injector RX website. Look at how much they change per injector. Then multiply by three.
also the per injector rebuild price. Multiply by six.
You will need to remove the intake manifold to get at the injector's by the fire wall. Doing that is a pita.
Injectors will continue to fail . You don't want to remove the intake manifold more than you absolutely have to. So you should replace the back three injectors. Roughly 54 bucks plus shipping.
Now,look up the price of a new injector. Multiply by three. It's all about money.
It's best to replace all six injectors. So that the car will be dependable and rUn very well. Six rebuilt injectors cost way less than six new ones. It's all about the money.
Keep in mind that you should replace the rear valve cover gasket while the manifold is off. It's possible that the "wetness at the hexagon" might be engine oil? The valve cover gasket will leak sooner or later. Which would mean removing the manifold yet again. Which you don't want to do.
Replace the front valve cover gasket as well while you are at it.
1. Go to the Injector RX website. Look at how much they change per injector. Then multiply by three.
also the per injector rebuild price. Multiply by six.
You will need to remove the intake manifold to get at the injector's by the fire wall. Doing that is a pita.
Injectors will continue to fail . You don't want to remove the intake manifold more than you absolutely have to. So you should replace the back three injectors. Roughly 54 bucks plus shipping.
Now,look up the price of a new injector. Multiply by three. It's all about money.
It's best to replace all six injectors. So that the car will be dependable and rUn very well. Six rebuilt injectors cost way less than six new ones. It's all about the money.
Keep in mind that you should replace the rear valve cover gasket while the manifold is off. It's possible that the "wetness at the hexagon" might be engine oil? The valve cover gasket will leak sooner or later. Which would mean removing the manifold yet again. Which you don't want to do.
Replace the front valve cover gasket as well while you are at it.
03-10-2020, 03:25 PM
#69
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 32
You asked why one would rebuild vs buy new injectors.
1. Go to the Injector RX website. Look at how much they change per injector. Then multiply by three.
also the per injector rebuild price. Multiply by six.
You will need to remove the intake manifold to get at the injector's by the fire wall. Doing that is a pita.
Injectors will continue to fail . You don't want to remove the intake manifold more than you absolutely have to. So you should replace the back three injectors. Roughly 54 bucks plus shipping.
Now,look up the price of a new injector. Multiply by three. It's all about money.
It's best to replace all six injectors. So that the car will be dependable and rUn very well. Six rebuilt injectors cost way less than six new ones. It's all about the money.
Keep in mind that you should replace the rear valve cover gasket while the manifold is off. It's possible that the "wetness at the hexagon" might be engine oil? The valve cover gasket will leak sooner or later. Which would mean removing the manifold yet again. Which you don't want to do.
Replace the front valve cover gasket as well while you are at it.
1. Go to the Injector RX website. Look at how much they change per injector. Then multiply by three.
also the per injector rebuild price. Multiply by six.
You will need to remove the intake manifold to get at the injector's by the fire wall. Doing that is a pita.
Injectors will continue to fail . You don't want to remove the intake manifold more than you absolutely have to. So you should replace the back three injectors. Roughly 54 bucks plus shipping.
Now,look up the price of a new injector. Multiply by three. It's all about money.
It's best to replace all six injectors. So that the car will be dependable and rUn very well. Six rebuilt injectors cost way less than six new ones. It's all about the money.
Keep in mind that you should replace the rear valve cover gasket while the manifold is off. It's possible that the "wetness at the hexagon" might be engine oil? The valve cover gasket will leak sooner or later. Which would mean removing the manifold yet again. Which you don't want to do.
Replace the front valve cover gasket as well while you are at it.
From left to right (top, closest to the firewall)
1: 700 (this one was the one that smelled a little more)
2: 700 (as was this one)
3: 700
Bottom (farthest from the firewall, still left to right)
4: 700
5: 700
6: 700
There may have been very slight fluctuations, but they all stayed very close to 700 rpms.
03-10-2020, 03:47 PM
#70
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
I'm still going to guess that the two stinky plugs also have leaking injectors.
We can assume that the fpr is not leaking.
We know gas is going into the oil.
So the most likely cause is the injectors in those cylinders.
Save your self work and rebuild all three rear injectors. Also strongly recommend the other items on and under the uim.
Question. Do you plan on doing all this work your self, or know someone who does not charge much per hour?
This project is time intensive .
This issue appears to have started about the time you over filled the gas tank. There is no cause and effect relationship . But it did send us all on a wild goose chase.
It's possible but unlikely that these repairs will not solve your issue. But doing the maintanince will at least prevent future problems.
We can assume that the fpr is not leaking.
We know gas is going into the oil.
So the most likely cause is the injectors in those cylinders.
Save your self work and rebuild all three rear injectors. Also strongly recommend the other items on and under the uim.
Question. Do you plan on doing all this work your self, or know someone who does not charge much per hour?
This project is time intensive .
This issue appears to have started about the time you over filled the gas tank. There is no cause and effect relationship . But it did send us all on a wild goose chase.
It's possible but unlikely that these repairs will not solve your issue. But doing the maintanince will at least prevent future problems.
Last edited by JvG; 03-10-2020 at 03:51 PM.
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