Should I buy this The Whole Shebang Gasket Set (on eBay)?
02-23-2021, 08:42 PM
#1
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Should I buy this The Whole Shebang Gasket Set (on eBay)?
I'm thinking of cleaning my IACV, TB and MAF in effort to solve my Max's myriad maladies. From what I can tell getting the individual gaskets on eBay is not economical at this point in time (compared to what people were saying in posts from years past). This is the set on eBay I'm considering, $90CAD for The Whole Shebang.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Fits-95-99-N...E/301091995487
I also might need to refresh my UIM (plenum?) gasket, and rear valve cover gasket. So getting a full set for $90 seems like not a bad idea. The question is, are these gaskets of good enough quality?
Now for the problems:
1) Hard start when warm and intermittent no-crank. Key slop needs to be looked into. The ECTS seems to be the one that gets mentioned with hard warm starts. My eBay cheapie ECTS is on it's way from China, but I may have to spring for something quicker. Fuel injectors and fuel pump are also under suspicion (both original AFAIK). The injectors were cleaned in 2010 and my Max is a '96.
2) She's just not as powerful as I'd like, especially at low RPMs. Takeoff is underwhelming.
3) There is a burning rubber smell entering the vents (might be solved by not doing re-circ??). My dad's mechanic told him it was a bad steering pump but I have seen leaks on the rear valve cover and wonder if that is causing the smell. Also the timing chain leaks. We had a mechanic fashion a little roof made out of milk carton to protect the alternator. At least two defenseless alternators were kiboshed before someone figured it out (in 2015 - engine now shows 130k mi on it).
4) I've done the last 3 oil changes myself. The last one - 2 months ago - I noticed a strong smell of gasoline. I'm hoping the fuel dilution has ended (it could have just been a period of bad driving conditions, no?) but I realize that the injectors need looking into sooner rather than later. The dipstick can be difficult to read... I'm just crossing my fingers this isn't a ton of fuel being dumped into the case. I tried to drive hot the other day on my major drive.
I also wonder who runs The Org and how to donate. I'm pretty broke but this is a great place for info and I'd like to encourage others to help keep it running
Much thanks!
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Fits-95-99-N...E/301091995487
I also might need to refresh my UIM (plenum?) gasket, and rear valve cover gasket. So getting a full set for $90 seems like not a bad idea. The question is, are these gaskets of good enough quality?
Now for the problems:
1) Hard start when warm and intermittent no-crank. Key slop needs to be looked into. The ECTS seems to be the one that gets mentioned with hard warm starts. My eBay cheapie ECTS is on it's way from China, but I may have to spring for something quicker. Fuel injectors and fuel pump are also under suspicion (both original AFAIK). The injectors were cleaned in 2010 and my Max is a '96.
2) She's just not as powerful as I'd like, especially at low RPMs. Takeoff is underwhelming.
3) There is a burning rubber smell entering the vents (might be solved by not doing re-circ??). My dad's mechanic told him it was a bad steering pump but I have seen leaks on the rear valve cover and wonder if that is causing the smell. Also the timing chain leaks. We had a mechanic fashion a little roof made out of milk carton to protect the alternator. At least two defenseless alternators were kiboshed before someone figured it out (in 2015 - engine now shows 130k mi on it).
4) I've done the last 3 oil changes myself. The last one - 2 months ago - I noticed a strong smell of gasoline. I'm hoping the fuel dilution has ended (it could have just been a period of bad driving conditions, no?) but I realize that the injectors need looking into sooner rather than later. The dipstick can be difficult to read... I'm just crossing my fingers this isn't a ton of fuel being dumped into the case. I tried to drive hot the other day on my major drive.
I also wonder who runs The Org and how to donate. I'm pretty broke but this is a great place for info and I'd like to encourage others to help keep it running
Much thanks!
Last edited by 90sWheels; 02-23-2021 at 08:46 PM.
02-23-2021, 10:33 PM
#2
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I am suspect of cheap gasket sets. And unless you have major engine issues, half will sit on a shelf.
RockAuto.com has many top and reliable brands of quality gaskets and parts, many on closeout, so you'll get the best of both worlds. Quality and at the right price.
When you're driving, leaky Timing covers get oil all over everything from the moving air, including the exhaust system. Miserable job, but get that done before blaming any other gasket..
If you smell gas in the oil, most likely a fuel injector has lost its pintle cap and dumping gas. with the top intake off, replace all 6 and grommets, if so. Also do the PCV Valve and Knock sensor. Fuel Pressure regulator and rail hoses too.
RockAuto.com has many top and reliable brands of quality gaskets and parts, many on closeout, so you'll get the best of both worlds. Quality and at the right price.
When you're driving, leaky Timing covers get oil all over everything from the moving air, including the exhaust system. Miserable job, but get that done before blaming any other gasket..
If you smell gas in the oil, most likely a fuel injector has lost its pintle cap and dumping gas. with the top intake off, replace all 6 and grommets, if so. Also do the PCV Valve and Knock sensor. Fuel Pressure regulator and rail hoses too.
02-24-2021, 01:32 AM
#3
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Thanks, @KP11520 
Yeah, there's more on the list, unfortunately. Ignition coils for one. I will run the balance test and DMM test on them as soon as I get the energy to stand out there in the cold.
Okay, I finally took a look at the oft-mentioned RockAuto and I was duly impressed. Once I figured out how to clear previous searches, its databases answered many of my questions. So that's where I can go if I want a Koyorad eh. The heater core hoses will be cheaper than what I could find on eBay and the rad hoses are dirt cheap (I already ordered those colorful silicon ones for $60, thinking it was a good deal). If you make a meal out of it I'm sure the shipping charge would be worth it. One nitpick though: they don't seem to have the IACV gasket, just a new IACV for over $100. I guess I could email them and ask.
Are fuel lines bought in bulk or are they specific?
Why do fuel injectors have to be so damn expensive? I'm confronted with the decision of rebuilding the OE ones or taking a chance with the Chinese Cheapies. Or, find my junkyard and maybe get lucky
John
Yeah, there's more on the list, unfortunately. Ignition coils for one. I will run the balance test and DMM test on them as soon as I get the energy to stand out there in the cold.
Okay, I finally took a look at the oft-mentioned RockAuto and I was duly impressed. Once I figured out how to clear previous searches, its databases answered many of my questions. So that's where I can go if I want a Koyorad eh. The heater core hoses will be cheaper than what I could find on eBay and the rad hoses are dirt cheap (I already ordered those colorful silicon ones for $60, thinking it was a good deal). If you make a meal out of it I'm sure the shipping charge would be worth it. One nitpick though: they don't seem to have the IACV gasket, just a new IACV for over $100. I guess I could email them and ask.
Are fuel lines bought in bulk or are they specific?
Why do fuel injectors have to be so damn expensive? I'm confronted with the decision of rebuilding the OE ones or taking a chance with the Chinese Cheapies. Or, find my junkyard and maybe get lucky
John
Last edited by 90sWheels; 02-24-2021 at 01:36 AM.
02-24-2021, 09:59 PM
#5
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Location: Long Island
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Fuel Hose from Auto Parts store in bulk. Just match what's there. Clamps too if they are fatigued.
OEM IACV gasket: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...48_A001,23785N
Rebuilt OEM Maxima Fuel Injectors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Flow-Ma...CMake%3ANissan
New Grommets for Injectors at RockAuto: FEL-PRO ES71045 {#1663672P00}
Fuel Pressure Regulator at RockAuto: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PR59
OEM IACV gasket: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/part...48_A001,23785N
Rebuilt OEM Maxima Fuel Injectors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Flow-Ma...CMake%3ANissan
New Grommets for Injectors at RockAuto: FEL-PRO ES71045 {#1663672P00}
Fuel Pressure Regulator at RockAuto: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PR59
02-24-2021, 10:02 PM
#6
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I found the IACV gasket on courtesyparts.com, and I messaged the eBay set seller to ask the brand.
https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...ket-23785ad100
Also, spark plug #3 had oil on it above the tip. So I guess my valve cover gasket really is on the way out. Why do people buy whole new valve covers? Do they warp or crack or something?
https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...ket-23785ad100
Also, spark plug #3 had oil on it above the tip. So I guess my valve cover gasket really is on the way out. Why do people buy whole new valve covers? Do they warp or crack or something?
02-24-2021, 10:39 PM
#7
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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I had my injectors rebuilt by Injector RX in Houston.
check their website. I was very satisfied with their service.
I like to buy the highest quality gaskets for projects which require lots of work to take things apart.
Sure, you could save a few bucks and buy a cheap gasket.
Should it fail, you will have to do the project all over again. With the high quality gasket you should have used in the first place.
Been there, done that.
check their website. I was very satisfied with their service.
I like to buy the highest quality gaskets for projects which require lots of work to take things apart.
Sure, you could save a few bucks and buy a cheap gasket.
Should it fail, you will have to do the project all over again. With the high quality gasket you should have used in the first place.
Been there, done that.
02-25-2021, 08:44 PM
#8
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^ Yes, definitely considering IRXH. I appreciate all the the input, as well as the information that people have put out on here over the years.
It really seems like there is a split over injectors, with some people saying that rebuilding is the way to go and others claiming that the failure of the solenoids is not that predictable, so go new. I am aware of the "test them out in the front bank first" method (I'm less clear on how you test them other than, "did the car run?"). Of course, that would be the method I would use if Chinese cheapies were obtained. Buying someone else's rebuilt OEM injectors appeals because then the install can proceed immediately, when the memory of taking everything apart is fresh in the mind.
Having said all this, the only way I could possibly do this myself is if the weather warms up a few degrees. What kind of money are we talking about to get a mechanic to do:
injectors, FPR, KS, RVC gasket (plug holes too)
?
edit: is this the right size for the injector screws?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vessel-220-B...p/274295313568
It really seems like there is a split over injectors, with some people saying that rebuilding is the way to go and others claiming that the failure of the solenoids is not that predictable, so go new. I am aware of the "test them out in the front bank first" method (I'm less clear on how you test them other than, "did the car run?"). Of course, that would be the method I would use if Chinese cheapies were obtained. Buying someone else's rebuilt OEM injectors appeals because then the install can proceed immediately, when the memory of taking everything apart is fresh in the mind.
Having said all this, the only way I could possibly do this myself is if the weather warms up a few degrees. What kind of money are we talking about to get a mechanic to do:
injectors, FPR, KS, RVC gasket (plug holes too)
?
edit: is this the right size for the injector screws?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Vessel-220-B...p/274295313568
Last edited by 90sWheels; 02-25-2021 at 08:48 PM.
02-25-2021, 08:53 PM
#9
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we get signal:
The gaskets set was made from Evergreen brand (Taiwan) with 100% reliable materials to meet the OE spec premium quality and are just what you need to keep your car in good running order. The parts that you will receive in this kit are high quality parts made that the dealers and rebuilding-auto shops use every day. So do not settle for lesser quality parts when it comes to the engine repair.DOMESTIC GASKETS INC
domesticgaskets@hotmail.com
eBay store link: www.ebaystores.com/domesticgaskets
626-582-1801 (Mon-Fri 9AM-5PM PST)
THANG
domesticgaskets@hotmail.com
eBay store link: www.ebaystores.com/domesticgaskets
626-582-1801 (Mon-Fri 9AM-5PM PST)
THANG
02-25-2021, 10:55 PM
#10
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
90s wheels,
if those gaskets were that good, everyone would use them.
you might consider using those for gaskets which are easy to replace. Perhaps a,valve cover.
now a timing cover, a head gasket, even an intake manifold gasket, ask your self if you would like to do all that works twice. Not to mention the expense of buying a higher quality gasket for the second repair.
like I said. Been there, Done that.
Do you feel lucky?
if those gaskets were that good, everyone would use them.
you might consider using those for gaskets which are easy to replace. Perhaps a,valve cover.
now a timing cover, a head gasket, even an intake manifold gasket, ask your self if you would like to do all that works twice. Not to mention the expense of buying a higher quality gasket for the second repair.
like I said. Been there, Done that.
Do you feel lucky?
02-26-2021, 04:54 PM
#11
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Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 105
Okay, I've ordered from RockAuto gaskets for EGR, TB, UIM, along with some other items. Upon checking out my IACV gasket source I find that CourtesyParts wants $50 after shipping (not-so-courteous imho) and NissanPartsDeal does not ship to Canada. Anyone have an extra!? Can I fashion my own gasket out of blank material? 
A new IACV was $100 before shipping...
A new IACV was $100 before shipping...
Last edited by 90sWheels; 02-26-2021 at 04:57 PM.
02-26-2021, 06:20 PM
#12
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Okay, I've ordered from RockAuto gaskets for EGR, TB, UIM, along with some other items. Upon checking out my IACV gasket source I find that CourtesyParts wants $50 after shipping (not-so-courteous imho) and NissanPartsDeal does not ship to Canada. Anyone have an extra!? Can I fashion my own gasket out of blank material? A new IACV was $100 before shipping...
A new IACV was $100 before shipping...I used spray carb cleaner for that.
02-26-2021, 09:37 PM
#13
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) but it might be good enough for now I'm thinking of using the carb-cleaner soaked rags to start a bonfire to burn fruit tree trimmings, along with oxidized oil and old gasoline.
02-26-2021, 11:42 PM
#14
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That gasket is paper. You might be surprised.
You could use it as a pattern to trace on to gasket material.
Regarding burning your rags and paper towels.
That's what I do. The chemicals and rags are highly flammable. So I put them on my bbq and watch them burn.
You could use it as a pattern to trace on to gasket material.
Regarding burning your rags and paper towels.
That's what I do. The chemicals and rags are highly flammable. So I put them on my bbq and watch them burn.
02-28-2021, 10:27 PM
#15
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Posts: 303
My experience recently:
was having warm start issues on both Maxima and Q45. On both, I changed all injectors. Brought new injectors in ebay for maxima for $40. Remans on eBay for Q45 for $110 maybe. Both looked exactly the same, so it annoyed me when cross referencing showed that they didn’t fit. I woulda rather put the new $40 ones in the Q, and brought 2 extra.
I also replaced fuel pressure regulator in maxima and q45 (the q45 has like 2 or 3 fuel pressure regulators/dampers...and to my dismay...I had to do the job TWICE because reusing the intake manifold gasket was a bad idea, but did help solve a 3 year long vacuum leak/dancing idle mystery.)
Personally: I don’t think the injectors were the cause of the warm start . But it’s hard to tell because I did them all at once: injectors, pressure regulator, intake gasket. But changing the injectors did cure a fuel smell in the engine bay or both vehicles. I also did the fuel pump in the maxima: somewhat tricky, but easy...however it didn’t fix my misfire and hard start issue.
I changed #3 coil, boot and plug the other week. Previous mechanic diagnostic pointed to “dead cylinder” in #3. I’m like...that doesn’t sound right, so sudden. Yes, the coil was firing, but it wasn’t firing enough to prevent misfiring. Brought That for $24 on rock auto. Problem solved.
For cars this old, I just go with the cheapest, reputable things that’ll work (except starters and alternators...whole other story lol) I can pay top dollar for a particular part, but then have 5 other parts to fix later. I’m not going to be able to go top shelf each time.
was having warm start issues on both Maxima and Q45. On both, I changed all injectors. Brought new injectors in ebay for maxima for $40. Remans on eBay for Q45 for $110 maybe. Both looked exactly the same, so it annoyed me when cross referencing showed that they didn’t fit. I woulda rather put the new $40 ones in the Q, and brought 2 extra.
I also replaced fuel pressure regulator in maxima and q45 (the q45 has like 2 or 3 fuel pressure regulators/dampers...and to my dismay...I had to do the job TWICE because reusing the intake manifold gasket was a bad idea, but did help solve a 3 year long vacuum leak/dancing idle mystery.)
Personally: I don’t think the injectors were the cause of the warm start . But it’s hard to tell because I did them all at once: injectors, pressure regulator, intake gasket. But changing the injectors did cure a fuel smell in the engine bay or both vehicles. I also did the fuel pump in the maxima: somewhat tricky, but easy...however it didn’t fix my misfire and hard start issue.
I changed #3 coil, boot and plug the other week. Previous mechanic diagnostic pointed to “dead cylinder” in #3. I’m like...that doesn’t sound right, so sudden. Yes, the coil was firing, but it wasn’t firing enough to prevent misfiring. Brought That for $24 on rock auto. Problem solved.
For cars this old, I just go with the cheapest, reputable things that’ll work (except starters and alternators...whole other story lol) I can pay top dollar for a particular part, but then have 5 other parts to fix later. I’m not going to be able to go top shelf each time.
Last edited by 97_GXE; 02-28-2021 at 10:30 PM.
03-04-2021, 07:57 PM
#16
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@97_GXE Thanks for the input 
Definitely, if you want to drive a car this old on a budget you need to do some research. Balance is important in all things
For me it's been a bit of a crash course. At the start I didn't know what a timing chain or an ignition coil was 
I'm wondering if anyone can enlighten me on the difference between these two spark plug gaskets over at Courtesy Nissan.
https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...bC12Ni1nYXM%3D
https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...bC12Ni1nYXM%3D
My spark plug change was finally completed, without serious mishap. As promised to myself, I am now proceeding with the necessary repairs. Plug #5 was on hold for a few weeks for various reasons . (Here are some tips to noobs. Make sure you take the old plug out before trying to put the new one in! When engaging in drinking & wrenching stick to the 2-drink buzz
The 8mm bolts holding the coils in seem delicate - proceed with caution.)
Definitely, if you want to drive a car this old on a budget you need to do some research. Balance is important in all things
For me it's been a bit of a crash course. At the start I didn't know what a timing chain or an ignition coil was I'm wondering if anyone can enlighten me on the difference between these two spark plug gaskets over at Courtesy Nissan.
https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...bC12Ni1nYXM%3D
https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...bC12Ni1nYXM%3D
My spark plug change was finally completed, without serious mishap. As promised to myself, I am now proceeding with the necessary repairs. Plug #5 was on hold for a few weeks for various reasons . (Here are some tips to noobs. Make sure you take the old plug out before trying to put the new one in! When engaging in drinking & wrenching stick to the 2-drink buzz
The 8mm bolts holding the coils in seem delicate - proceed with caution.)
03-04-2021, 08:51 PM
#17
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Long Island
Posts: 1,586
Just buy the Fel-Pro front and rear Valve Cover Gasket kit at RockAuto. Comes complete with everything needed and very reliable quality. And get a tube of Oil Resistant RTV.
FEL-PRO VS50494R Wholesale Closeout $22.79.
FEL-PRO VS50494R Wholesale Closeout $22.79.
03-05-2021, 04:17 PM
#18
nothing beats OE.. But I will say I have used domestics gaskets kits on few cars In real life. They seem to be the more cost effective solution for a complete gasket set for older cars and without searching for each piece individually, I have never had an issue. The kits seem to cover most variations of interchange if a car happens to be a mid year, Ive never used there headgaskets, its OEM or bust at my shop.
03-06-2021, 04:36 AM
#19
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Nice find, @KP11520 Thanks, I'll probably go with those.
Not sure if I get away with asking unrelated questions in the thread I started but...
Does buying these pre-molded heater hoses help or is it just for looks? If they work better and are easier to install I don't mind paying a little more over generic hose. (I'm thinking the un-molded hoses could make unwanted contact with hot metal).
GATES 19756 Molded Heater Hose; 3/4" x 36 13/32" Heater To Pipe-1
GATES 19755 Molded Heater Hose; 3/4" x 34 19/32" Heater To Pipe-2
And I'm guessing installing the heater hoses with some parts removed will be easier.
On the PCV valve, will I need to get a new grommet also? Someone mentioned something like this ($30). I got the Fram valve - FRAMFV373. Ordering this part from Courtesy Parts ($5) might make the egregious shipping cost for the IACV gasket more palatable. Rock Auto seems to not carry them anymore.
For finding out which hoses I need will the FSM make it obvious or will just figuring out when I get there be the best way? I recently acquired a Vernier caliper - 12CAD on eBay
My blue-silicone eBay rad hoses arrived - that's not a bad shipping time from China, 3 weeks. One complaint I have though is they came just in a shipping bag, with no box to protect them from damage (haven't inspected them carefully yet).
Not sure if I get away with asking unrelated questions in the thread I started but...
Does buying these pre-molded heater hoses help or is it just for looks? If they work better and are easier to install I don't mind paying a little more over generic hose. (I'm thinking the un-molded hoses could make unwanted contact with hot metal).
GATES 19756 Molded Heater Hose; 3/4" x 36 13/32" Heater To Pipe-1
GATES 19755 Molded Heater Hose; 3/4" x 34 19/32" Heater To Pipe-2
And I'm guessing installing the heater hoses with some parts removed will be easier.
On the PCV valve, will I need to get a new grommet also? Someone mentioned something like this ($30). I got the Fram valve - FRAMFV373. Ordering this part from Courtesy Parts ($5) might make the egregious shipping cost for the IACV gasket more palatable. Rock Auto seems to not carry them anymore.
For finding out which hoses I need will the FSM make it obvious or will just figuring out when I get there be the best way? I recently acquired a Vernier caliper - 12CAD on eBay
My blue-silicone eBay rad hoses arrived - that's not a bad shipping time from China, 3 weeks. One complaint I have though is they came just in a shipping bag, with no box to protect them from damage (haven't inspected them carefully yet).
Last edited by 90sWheels; 03-06-2021 at 04:43 AM.
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