FLO_BOY

OK, for some who may have followed...my car has been seriously ****ing
me off with the hesitation and shutting off...so, I did the following:

*changed my knock sensor
*changed my engine coolant temperature sensor
*changed my fuel filter
*changed my PCV valve
*used fuel injector cleaner

none of these moves worked...so, I then tightened some ground wires,
and my problem went away!!! BUT, it (much like the cat) came back
about a week later

this time around, it is REALLY bad when the car is first
started...after it warms up, this becomes less of an issue...BUT, it
is really frustrating! whenever I hit the gas, the car will LAUNCH forward for a half-second, and then almost die, and then bounce between 800-1500 rpms, WITHOUT MY FOOT EVEN ON THE GAS!!!

does anyone have any ideas?

I'm thinking it might be a vaccuum leak, or a bad EGR?
thoughts?

ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!
FLO_BOY

1FSTMAX

iTrader: (29)

This seems to me like you have a vaccum leak. You might want to check your brake booster, and your intake manifold. Also check your MAF.

Hope this helps.

ladeesman

I've never experienced this in my Max but in being in a family that has owned 5 I have seen it in my moms. I looked at it for awhile and noticed that when the dealship had fixed something they had cut a hose too long nd it was crimped, well that fix it for a little while but then it started back, after some further diagnostic work it turned out to be the EGR port/vale. I would take my attention to that 1st.

Nismo98

iTrader: (7)

Check your MAF, I had a similar problem, car used to die on me and **** like that.

Andrei

FLO_BOY

OK, I forgot to mention that I replaced my MAF...

So, my guess of Vaccuum and EGR are both ideas from other folks -- sounds good!!

I'll check those this weekend...
Anyone have tips for checking vaccuum lines? never done it before

thanks!
FLO_BOY

blizz20oma

iTrader: (1)

I believe you can use a piece of vaccuum tube hose to check hoses for leaks. The old Daniel B Martin-approved stethoscope method. Just hold one end up to your ear and run the other wherever you need to. This can be used to listen to a number of things, and I think can be applied to searching for leaks in hoses as per the haynes manual, but someone correct me if I'm wrong.

FLO_BOY

I have a Hayne's manual, and when it comes to checking hoses, it sucks.

All it ever says is "check hoses for cracks or leaks"...THANKS, but, what f'ing hoses?

anyhow, thanks for the advice!
FLO_BOY

sinewave

If you have a vacuum leak, the low vacuum will show up on all vacuum lines. Go buy a vacuum guage ($10-$15) and attach it to any line then if you have a low reading you can start searching for a bad hose.

Why search for a leak if you don't have one?

Linkage23

iTrader: (2)

100% a vacuum leak...

TooMAX

iTrader: (1)

I was going to say MAF....
If it turns out to not be a vacuum leak, how about your TPS?

FLO_BOY

When I checked my TPS, it fell into the "general area" of resistance.
Thanks for the advice! much appreciated!
FLO_BOY

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

If your car idles, throttles and stalls on you quite noticeably, it would have to be a pretty serious vacuum leak. One you could hear at close range. I had a massive manifold leak and the car was all you describe and much worse. It also felt like it was misfiring. Using a stethescope on a running engine is a good idea. Just point the end of the steth all along all the manifold vacuum lines. A decent leak can be reduced with a warm engine due to the expansion of parts by heat...so it may very well be the trouble. It is not unheard of that your IAC valve may be bad as well.