I installed my Maxspeeds this weekend...
#1
I installed my Maxspeeds this weekend...
...and I am very happy with myself if I do say so
I hope to create a full write-up on this as I know that alot of questions I had were only full answered once I got to tinkering. An example is that the entire trunk and nearly all of the backseat needs to be removed to get at the rear spring upper mounts (perhaps someone with more skill than I could manipulate a tool into the hole that Nissan gave for access, but not I !)
haha! My Max can now be shown!!!
Gallery of pics covering install
I hope to create a full write-up on this as I know that alot of questions I had were only full answered once I got to tinkering. An example is that the entire trunk and nearly all of the backseat needs to be removed to get at the rear spring upper mounts (perhaps someone with more skill than I could manipulate a tool into the hole that Nissan gave for access, but not I !)
haha! My Max can now be shown!!!
Gallery of pics covering install
#3
Originally posted by soundmike
It's about time you did it! Drop looks good man.
It's about time you did it! Drop looks good man.
Dixit
#4
Whoah!
I think someones a little scared of the car falling on them.....are you sure you don't want to use the floorjack also?
You own 6-jackstands!?!?!!? I don't even have 1-pair!
J/K....thanks...I'll save myself about $50 by removing the interior FIRST, so my mechanic doesn't have too.
You own 6-jackstands!?!?!!? I don't even have 1-pair!
J/K....thanks...I'll save myself about $50 by removing the interior FIRST, so my mechanic doesn't have too.
#9
cool. i got 46k and want the springs but it's the struts keeping me from getting them.....if i gotta replace the struts loses it's luster. feel me? know how many miles any of the se guys w/ maxspeeds got on their stock struts?
#10
Well Dixit has well over 20k with his Maxspeeds and stock struts (IIRC) and Dario has several thousand miles under the belt as well. I know of a number of other people with similar experiences but have also read of problems for some people.
Just my opinion, you're probably better off getting new struts while you're at it.
Just my opinion, you're probably better off getting new struts while you're at it.
#11
soundmike pegged it right on. I am right at 30 k on the stockers. I wanted to get the KYB AGX (didn't want to have to fool with the Cattman modifieds)and the springs installed that the same time. However, seeing as how the good folks at KYB still don't have a definate realease date, I went ahead right now and put the springs on. Hopefully, if they do fail, it will be just about the same time the AGXs come to market.
You can NEVER have enough jackstands (I just might add that to my sig pic). That said, the install was done at a friend of mines house (I live in an apartment complex that frowns on installing air-fresheners in the parking lot - ). Yes, I did have a sudden fear of dropping a 2 ton car on my head. That proved to be groundless as the majority of the work stays out at the sides of the car.
You are 100% right on the open ended wrench - I could have used one. The socket did not want to fit and I made the command decision to remove the backseat. It really isn't hard and there are very few places for error in that process (i.e. no real wiring concerns, strange or hard to reach bolts, etc.). The reason I went through this was I was a little concerned about the amount of torque that could be needed to loosen those upper bolts and then applying enough force to tighten them back down. As it was, the upper bolt came off easily enough. It is ultimately your call, but I decided that it would be better to have the shocks back on right then doubt it. Bottom line, yes, this could be done without removing the seats and trunk-lining.
I will speed-up the write-up timetable but it will be at least a 1 or 2 weeks. I was hoping the build my own website in the process but instead I will just focus on the write-up. I used the Haynes repair manual that you should be able to find at any AutoZone. The folks at Haynes grouped the 3rd, 4th and 5th gens together for some strange reason, so not everything jibes...but it is a big help. Also, you can get the spring compressors at your local AutoZone for 72 hours for free (as long as you put the price of the item down as a deposit.) More later and again thanks to all the friendly voices...I will be glad when I can give back some of this info to the community that has been so welcoming over the past 6 months.
Later
You can NEVER have enough jackstands (I just might add that to my sig pic). That said, the install was done at a friend of mines house (I live in an apartment complex that frowns on installing air-fresheners in the parking lot - ). Yes, I did have a sudden fear of dropping a 2 ton car on my head. That proved to be groundless as the majority of the work stays out at the sides of the car.
You are 100% right on the open ended wrench - I could have used one. The socket did not want to fit and I made the command decision to remove the backseat. It really isn't hard and there are very few places for error in that process (i.e. no real wiring concerns, strange or hard to reach bolts, etc.). The reason I went through this was I was a little concerned about the amount of torque that could be needed to loosen those upper bolts and then applying enough force to tighten them back down. As it was, the upper bolt came off easily enough. It is ultimately your call, but I decided that it would be better to have the shocks back on right then doubt it. Bottom line, yes, this could be done without removing the seats and trunk-lining.
I will speed-up the write-up timetable but it will be at least a 1 or 2 weeks. I was hoping the build my own website in the process but instead I will just focus on the write-up. I used the Haynes repair manual that you should be able to find at any AutoZone. The folks at Haynes grouped the 3rd, 4th and 5th gens together for some strange reason, so not everything jibes...but it is a big help. Also, you can get the spring compressors at your local AutoZone for 72 hours for free (as long as you put the price of the item down as a deposit.) More later and again thanks to all the friendly voices...I will be glad when I can give back some of this info to the community that has been so welcoming over the past 6 months.
Later
#13
Boy I thought I was hung up on jacks...
I tried to left the car with the big hydrulic job (get one - its SO worth it) by placing it under what looked like the frame. As soon as it had the cars weight under it, I heard the metal start to buckle - obviously not the frame rail. It seemed rather odd to me as well, but those little indentations must be the recommended jack-points for the little screw-jack in the trunk. I had no problem, save for a little bent metal on the lip of the metal seam. The car did'nt budge once on the stands from either end using this method. I would be happy to hear any insight into this subject as I am sure this won't be the last time I lift my car.
I had a big grin going when I lower the last side after install as the jack barely cleared the sides
I tried to left the car with the big hydrulic job (get one - its SO worth it) by placing it under what looked like the frame. As soon as it had the cars weight under it, I heard the metal start to buckle - obviously not the frame rail. It seemed rather odd to me as well, but those little indentations must be the recommended jack-points for the little screw-jack in the trunk. I had no problem, save for a little bent metal on the lip of the metal seam. The car did'nt budge once on the stands from either end using this method. I would be happy to hear any insight into this subject as I am sure this won't be the last time I lift my car.
I had a big grin going when I lower the last side after install as the jack barely cleared the sides
#14
Boy I thought I was hung up on jacks...
I tried to left the car with the big hydrulic job (get one - its SO worth it) by placing it under what looked like the frame. As soon as it had the cars weight under it, I heard the metal start to buckle - obviously not the frame rail. It seemed rather odd to me as well, but those little indentations must be the recommended jack-points for the little screw-jack in the trunk. I had no problem, save for a little bent metal on the lip of the metal seam. The car did'nt budge once on the stands from either end using this method. I would be happy to hear any insight into this subject as I am sure this won't be the last time I lift my car.
I had a big grin going when I lower the last side after install as the jack barely cleared the sides
I tried to left the car with the big hydrulic job (get one - its SO worth it) by placing it under what looked like the frame. As soon as it had the cars weight under it, I heard the metal start to buckle - obviously not the frame rail. It seemed rather odd to me as well, but those little indentations must be the recommended jack-points for the little screw-jack in the trunk. I had no problem, save for a little bent metal on the lip of the metal seam. The car did'nt budge once on the stands from either end using this method. I would be happy to hear any insight into this subject as I am sure this won't be the last time I lift my car.
I had a big grin going when I lower the last side after install as the jack barely cleared the sides
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MaxLife17
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06-27-2019 01:37 PM