I posted this in the Audio Forum, but no replys....

Before I start, let me say that I did search:


Help! Plug Adapter For 2K2 Bose Amp
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=bose+wiring

No need to run wires to doors in 2k-2k3 models
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=bose+wiring

HELP! 2K2 Bose Issue/Question
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=bose+wiring

Began install...comments/questions
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....5&pagenumber=1

Hole for speaker wire......
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ighlight=gauge


..but didn't find the answers I was looking for. So here goes:

1) When installing components on a 5th Gen with Bose and using the factory wiring, do you have 2 different sets of wires coming out of the amp for both the front tweeters and the woofers? Or does the wire for the tweeter connect inside the door?

2) Does the factory wiring for the Bose system run down the driver side in the plastic conduit under the trim? If so, is there a concern of noise because everyone (including me) runs their amp wire in that location?

3) In a worst case scenario, I will run new speaker wires. Most people say that it is impossible to run to the front doors without drilling because of the molex connector. Others say they have been able to do it through the grommet? What's the deal?

I'm looking to upgrade all the speakers in the car and amp them this weekend (I've already got a new head unit, sub & amp but I don't want to go through the nightmare of running new wires to all the speakers (components front and back).

Any help would be appreciated!

 

I replaced the Bose system in my 2K1 Max last fall, so I guess I could be of some help. Here goes:

1) The wiring for the front Bose component speakers is one wire (+ and -) from the amp that splits before the door (i.e. inside the car and not inside the door) and then runs into the door for the woofer and to the A-pillar for the tweeter. You can use the factory wiring for an aftermarket component set by finding where the factory wiring splits and hooking each wire up to the terminals on the new crossover.

2) Yes. I was concerned about the same thing because I ran my 4 guage power wire right next to that plastic conduit. I don't have any noise though. I guess I can attribute that to having a good solid ground for my amp, good quality RCAs, and a 4 volt output from my headunit.

3) My personal strategy when doing an install is to never do anything to my car that I can't undo (or hide) in case I decide to get rid of the car. You never know what may detract from the overall resale value. With that in mind, I would first recommend trying to use the factory wiring into the doors, even if it means splicing into it inside the kick panel. After that, I would drill a new hole and use a new rubber grommet for the wire. I wouldnt try to use the Molex connector because I don't think you want to take the chance of wrecking it by trying to get a new (most likely larger guage) wire through it. Plus, like you had read, it sounds really hard to do anyway.

In case you care, here's how i have my system set up:
Headunit spliced into the factory wiring harness using a Metra kit from Crutchfield. RCAs run from the head down the passenger side to the amp in the trunk. Spliced into the factory turn on lead from the Bose amp's wiring harness for turn on for the amp. Spliced into the 4 sets of speaker wires from the Bose amp's wiring harness for the speakers. Swapped the rear speakers directly. New tweeters and woofers in the front and spliced the crossover into the factory speaker wiring near the kick panel.

If you search the forum, you can find the wiring diagrams which will help you figure out the Bose harnesses.

Good luck!