Okay guys so I think I could call this the worst day yet. My drive belt has been squealing like a **** and I dont have enough money to go buy a new one at NIssan, the non oem one from adv.auto just isnt cutting it. anyhoo

I'm driving today and my gas light was on, i got out and got back in 15 min later. THe car was jittering like crazy, the only way i can describe it is like right before you stall because your not adding enough gas, it does this until about 60mph in all gears. So I was driving on the highway ~50 (problem started as soon as car turned on) and well the Service Engine light started to blink rapidly. Got some gas, same problem, gave it about an hour rest and now the engine light is on non stop and the car is contantly jittery, even when it's idle on a red light you can feel the choking.

I did just change my oil, but when i recall ~ 1 month ago i was leaving walmart and the same thing happened and i thought i had a flat!?!?!?!?got out and nothing, turned back on in 5 min and like new.

hey guys im really stressing here, just got my ae kit and about to go get installed but this seems like it might be bigger problem, id appreciate any help!!! thanks

just for the ref, im stock with 55k 5-speed

 

We seeing your pic...do you treat your car good...or beat the **** outa it like that pic haha...
i would take it to the dealer and have him check out what the problem is before it gets worse

 

But you got the money for an AE kit?

I saw a TSB about something similar like that (below 1800 rpm), Nissan has to reprogram the ECM. I had the problem, but they did mine and it's much better now.

 

the cars been loved for the last few months, i recall the tsb too, but it's constant, even above 1800 rpms, plus its choking in idle too...u guys think resetting ecu might help? problem didnt show up until at least 50k a month ago, grrrr

 

is your car under warrenty... IF so just take it to the dealer... If not resetting the OEM might help....

 

my bad ecu

 

MORE INFO!!!

Ok so I was driving home, and in fact past 2k rpms the choking stops. I was drivign home and after 2miles/5 min the problem stopped but the service engine light was still on, no warenty 50k

 

Did you over torque the idler when you installed the belt or something? This sounds bad...

 

the belts been on since the summer time and just started to squeal a month or 2 ago because of the cold weather im guessing so i dont think it could be something i did a while ago i dunno though?!?!?


One thing though, the TSB someone posted about re: 1800rpm's does this cause the engine light to turn on as well as do the choking while idle?

 

My case was the car was rough when cold under 2k for the first minute of driving. My check engine light did come on new years eve (was driving perfectly at the time) and went away 4-5 days later. I took it to the dealer (used car warranty ) and they reprogrammed the ecm. If the car runs smooth, see if the light goes out. Otherwise, i think the only option is take it to the dealer.

 

ABSOLUTELY GET SOME INJECTOR-CLEANER FLUID!!!

Buy the expensive $12 stuff. Buy 2-if you got the dough. The duralube cleaner works wonders, but it's hard to find. STP is ok too.

Drop it in and fill up your tank. Or drop it in with half a tank for better results.

But it may actually be a fuel-pressure problem (due to a clogged-fuel-filter, perhaps?...)

Also, check your air filter... with all that offroading, the filter has probably turned to mud - which is why your new sig should be SUVMAX

G

 

Hmmm....sounds alot like coils to me. I had the exact thing happen to me about 4 weeks ago (even the rapid blinking of the service engine light). Funny thing is that it went away for a day then returned while I was on the expressway. The next day I went to the dealer and had the engine light diagnosed with the CONSULT II. It indicated 2 failed coils and major misfiring in cylinders 1 & 2. They replaced all coils under my extended warranty. I would go have it checked out STAT.

 

Pull the codes to find out the exact problem! It is hard to diagnose on here and much easier if we know what codes your car is throwing.

Try Autozone, they pull them for free and from the codes you can tell exactly what your enginer and other components are doing. Even if Autozone doesn't have the code book, people on here can tell what component is failing from the code number.

Good luck! And I would be quick about this, doesn't sound like this is going to fix itself.

 

A blinking CEL light indicates a misfire due to ignition problems, coils most of the time or an electrical failure with a fuel injector.

It will not indicate a clogged injector misfire, there's no way for it for see that electriaclly. You'll get a lean cylinder bank code for that. Up to you to figure out which injector it is.

 

No flame, but Duralube is in court over false advertising charges for the products they sale. Products have shown no change in performance or engine characteristics and in some cases has shown loss of performance and increased engine wear.

 

I like how people just love to "diss" products that they've never used... I said that it worked WONDERS for ME. All of their products did! If you want the scoop, search for "Dura" under my name & you can read through my posts.

If you followed the lawsuit at all... the reason they're being sued is because they state "will extend engine life" but there's no real way to prove that it does... so the FTC decided to crack down on them, instead of catching the thousands of E-Bay crooks...

Getting back to Adam's problem: If it's still under warranty - get it checked at the dealer. If not, then $12 towards some injector cleaner fluid is a small investment.

G

PS> You don't believe everything you read in the paper, do you?...

 

Thanks for all the posts guys, here is an update:

Went to Nissan Dealer talked to the guy and like you guys said he said it's 1 of 2 things:

1) Since I'm poor I usually buy expensive gas in small amounts, during the winter time moisture might have built up and well it stinks. He reccomended I get half a tank of gas and 2 bottles of gas line antifreeze, and he said if problem clears up within 100 miles all should be good.

2) Coil problems, like 2k2demax said, the guy at nissan said itll cost me ~ $650.00 <----This is what he said the more likely problem is...

ANYHOW, I did the gas thingy and well restarted car on 4 occasions, drove about 20 miles and everything seems good, reset my ecu and the light dissapeared and just knocking on wood that all will be good. Also tightened the belt and it stopped squealing I'm so happy guys as long as this all just goes away and I can spend my money on getting my AE put on! Plus its gonan snow tomorrow and it might mean no school for me and a day of TLC for maxine