How Do You Remove A Stripped Wheel Lug/Rod?
How Do You Remove A Stripped Wheel Lug/Rod?
This guy at a speedshop used one of those power drills to put the lugs on one of my wheels he must have double threaded the lock nut or something because when I went to get it off it was only getting tighter as I was loosening it. And from trying to loosen it i striped the actual lock lug. My question is how do i remove this stripped/double threaded lock lug from the rod AND if i do get it off how hard is it to put a new rod in to replace the stripped one? Could nissan do this for me. I don't want to ruin my rims in the process. Thanks so much.
you actually only need 4 rods, so not having one is ok. But if you do want to remove it, i believe there are instrustions in the sticky how to thread or just take it to a local shop and they can take it off, i think average price is $35.
First of all I would recommend you take it back to the shop that messed with your lugnuts last. They should be the ones doing the repair work, or at least recommending someone at their cost of course. There is no reason you should be cleaning up after their sloppy work. I have had 3 strips lugnuts from 3 different places and each time I had them replace the stud.
Now if for some reason you can't, or won't get them to fix it for you then to remove the lugnut put the wrench on it and rock it back and forth to see if you can snap it. If not then you have to figure out a way to remove it. Maybe have to use an impact wrench.
Once it's removed and you want to replace the broken stud you have to remove the wheel, the caliper, the caliper holder, and the brake rotor. You should see the wheel hub and notice the stud that is considerably shorter. Behind the wheel hub there is a black dust protector. Rotate the hub so the broken stud lines up with the gap in the black dust protector. Once it's lined up, hammer out the stud from the front to the back. It should fly off with a couple knocks of a hammer. Be careful..you might want to wear eye protection just in case. Once the broken stud is out push in the new one by hand. You should be able to get it in enough so it stays and then you can hit it in with a hammer from the back. This takes a little delicacy because you don't have much spare room hammering from the back. After you get it on then you can put everything back together.
I recommend tightening all the nuts by hand without the wrench. Then tighten the new lugnut and stud as tight as you can get it. This will pull the stud fully in place. After that back it off and then tighten all the lugnuts to about 75 lbs. Big discussion on here has been lugnut torque and most research has shown that proper torqued lugnuts help to prevent warped rotors down the line. Not always the case, but it helps.
Hope this helps and good luck.
BTW...I think there is something in the FAQ thread about this.
Now if for some reason you can't, or won't get them to fix it for you then to remove the lugnut put the wrench on it and rock it back and forth to see if you can snap it. If not then you have to figure out a way to remove it. Maybe have to use an impact wrench.
Once it's removed and you want to replace the broken stud you have to remove the wheel, the caliper, the caliper holder, and the brake rotor. You should see the wheel hub and notice the stud that is considerably shorter. Behind the wheel hub there is a black dust protector. Rotate the hub so the broken stud lines up with the gap in the black dust protector. Once it's lined up, hammer out the stud from the front to the back. It should fly off with a couple knocks of a hammer. Be careful..you might want to wear eye protection just in case. Once the broken stud is out push in the new one by hand. You should be able to get it in enough so it stays and then you can hit it in with a hammer from the back. This takes a little delicacy because you don't have much spare room hammering from the back. After you get it on then you can put everything back together.
I recommend tightening all the nuts by hand without the wrench. Then tighten the new lugnut and stud as tight as you can get it. This will pull the stud fully in place. After that back it off and then tighten all the lugnuts to about 75 lbs. Big discussion on here has been lugnut torque and most research has shown that proper torqued lugnuts help to prevent warped rotors down the line. Not always the case, but it helps.
Hope this helps and good luck.
BTW...I think there is something in the FAQ thread about this.
Re: How Do You Remove A Stripped Wheel Lug/Rod?
Originally posted by pmas76
This guy at a speedshop used one of those power drills to put the lugs on one of my wheels he must have double threaded the lock nut or something because when I went to get it off it was only getting tighter as I was loosening it. And from trying to loosen it i striped the actual lock lug. My question is how do i remove this stripped/double threaded lock lug from the rod AND if i do get it off how hard is it to put a new rod in to replace the stripped one? Could nissan do this for me. I don't want to ruin my rims in the process. Thanks so much.
This guy at a speedshop used one of those power drills to put the lugs on one of my wheels he must have double threaded the lock nut or something because when I went to get it off it was only getting tighter as I was loosening it. And from trying to loosen it i striped the actual lock lug. My question is how do i remove this stripped/double threaded lock lug from the rod AND if i do get it off how hard is it to put a new rod in to replace the stripped one? Could nissan do this for me. I don't want to ruin my rims in the process. Thanks so much.
I would not F%^k with. That is just my opinion.
good luck.
I just recently had to break a stud b/c of a damn double threaded lug ****damn sears
****. I would say if you have to break the stud the dealer will charge you around $40 to replace it and give you a new lug.
Matt
****. I would say if you have to break the stud the dealer will charge you around $40 to replace it and give you a new lug.Matt
Go back to the speedshop, and make them replace the lug bolt for you, free.
Then, have them remove all the lug nuts and wheels and inspect.
After that (and replacing any other problems) tell them to install all the lug nuts by hand and torque them manually with a torque wrench.
Tell them that if they touch your lugnuts with an air wrench (after they have them repaired) that you will strangle the mechanic with the air hose, and beat the owner/manager with the air wrench.
(I've been through this, with my wife's minivan. I think the lug bolts are made of bronze ;-) )
It's possible that the lug bolts can be removed without removing the rotor (this was the case on our Toyota) After removing the calipers, there was a place on the wheel spindle that had clearance for a lug bolt to be hammered out, and a new one pulled through. It's a 'press fit' usually. The mech took a lug nut and put it on backwards (so that the flat side was against the hub) and tightened, which pulled the lug bolt into the rotor. When the bolt was all the way in, you just remove the nut, and reinstall the wheel properly. I do not know if this can be done on a Max. From the FSM, it doesn't look too difficult to remove the rotor.
Finally, if you have a brake shop you trust, they can do it as well.
Then, have them remove all the lug nuts and wheels and inspect.
After that (and replacing any other problems) tell them to install all the lug nuts by hand and torque them manually with a torque wrench.
Tell them that if they touch your lugnuts with an air wrench (after they have them repaired) that you will strangle the mechanic with the air hose, and beat the owner/manager with the air wrench.
(I've been through this, with my wife's minivan. I think the lug bolts are made of bronze ;-) )
It's possible that the lug bolts can be removed without removing the rotor (this was the case on our Toyota) After removing the calipers, there was a place on the wheel spindle that had clearance for a lug bolt to be hammered out, and a new one pulled through. It's a 'press fit' usually. The mech took a lug nut and put it on backwards (so that the flat side was against the hub) and tightened, which pulled the lug bolt into the rotor. When the bolt was all the way in, you just remove the nut, and reinstall the wheel properly. I do not know if this can be done on a Max. From the FSM, it doesn't look too difficult to remove the rotor.
Finally, if you have a brake shop you trust, they can do it as well.
Originally posted by teddibear703
you actually only need 4 rods, so not having one is ok. But if you do want to remove it, i believe there are instrustions in the sticky how to thread or just take it to a local shop and they can take it off, i think average price is $35.
you actually only need 4 rods, so not having one is ok. But if you do want to remove it, i believe there are instrustions in the sticky how to thread or just take it to a local shop and they can take it off, i think average price is $35.

Also, I think there is a lot of banging and swearing involved with the removal of the lugs (Thank God I've never had that problem...yet).
Originally posted by Quicksilver
If you only need four, then why did it come from the factory with five?
Also, I think there is a lot of banging and swearing involved with the removal of the lugs (Thank God I've never had that problem...yet).
If you only need four, then why did it come from the factory with five?

Also, I think there is a lot of banging and swearing involved with the removal of the lugs (Thank God I've never had that problem...yet).
Just takes a precise aim with the hammer,
I broke a stud on my Cobra a couple of years ago. Replacing it was a piece of cake. I'm not sure how similar the spindle/hub setups are as I haven't had the tires off my max yet. My guess is if you take it back to the shop they'll tell you that you messed it up and that it's your problem.
Originally posted by Zak03SE
My guess is if you take it back to the shop they'll tell you that you messed it up and that it's your problem.
My guess is if you take it back to the shop they'll tell you that you messed it up and that it's your problem.
That is exactly why I don't want to bring it back to them. Even if they fessed up to it, do you really think I want them messing with my car anymore. I just simply won't give them my business anymore. Fukin Shysters!!
Originally posted by Quicksilver
If you only need four, then why did it come from the factory with five?
Also, I think there is a lot of banging and swearing involved with the removal of the lugs (Thank God I've never had that problem...yet).
If you only need four, then why did it come from the factory with five?

Also, I think there is a lot of banging and swearing involved with the removal of the lugs (Thank God I've never had that problem...yet).
Quicksilver:
I only said that you need 4 as a minimum. I spoke to a couple mechanics and asked them that question and they told me it won't affect anything and is perfectly fine. I'm just saying that from what i was told. i'm not a mechanic, but just passing on information from what i know of. Anyways, good luck pmas76
I only said that you need 4 as a minimum. I spoke to a couple mechanics and asked them that question and they told me it won't affect anything and is perfectly fine. I'm just saying that from what i was told. i'm not a mechanic, but just passing on information from what i know of. Anyways, good luck pmas76
Originally posted by SkyDaver
The point is that if you have 3 of 4, or 4 of 5, or even 3 of 5, you can drive to the shop to get it fixed. You would not want to take a long trip, or leave it unfixed for any appreciable amount of time, but you can still move the car. 3 of 5 studs is enough to keep the wheel on the car for a careful trip to the shop.
The point is that if you have 3 of 4, or 4 of 5, or even 3 of 5, you can drive to the shop to get it fixed. You would not want to take a long trip, or leave it unfixed for any appreciable amount of time, but you can still move the car. 3 of 5 studs is enough to keep the wheel on the car for a careful trip to the shop.
you actually only need 4 rods, so not having one is ok. But if you do want to remove it, i believe there are instrustions in the sticky how to thread or just take it to a local shop and they can take it off, i think average price is $35.
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