Clear 2k2 headlight and body kit experts....step inside pls~~~
#1
Clear 2k2 headlight and body kit experts....step inside pls~~~
For Clear Headlight Experts:
Which sealicon do u guys use to seal back the headlight for best result?? How long does that last??
For body kit experts:
Since i have a 2k2, should i trade my 2k2 front bumper to a 2k1 in order to make the Stillen aero front lip to fit?? or....i wonder if they will make the aero front lip for 2k2......
thanks!
Which sealicon do u guys use to seal back the headlight for best result?? How long does that last??
For body kit experts:
Since i have a 2k2, should i trade my 2k2 front bumper to a 2k1 in order to make the Stillen aero front lip to fit?? or....i wonder if they will make the aero front lip for 2k2......
thanks!
#2
You can always bust out with a dremel and G-rig the front lip to fit. Emax02 did this. It looks fine but when your upclose from what he states its obvious its been rigged up. I think the 2k1 front bumper would fit but price, ect... I have no clue about. I personally like the bumper of the 2k-2k1 better then the 2k2-2k3 version of the 5th gen but Im just gonna go 4 a 2k3 the power more then makes up for the way the bumper looks. For the headlights, Emax/Ethan did a nice write up on it on www.vqpower.com
#3
Originally posted by HitManSE
You can always bust out with a dremel and G-rig the front lip to fit. Emax02 did this. It looks fine but when your upclose from what he states its obvious its been rigged up. I think the 2k1 front bumper would fit but price, ect... I have no clue about. I personally like the bumper of the 2k-2k1 better then the 2k2-2k3 version of the 5th gen but Im just gonna go 4 a 2k3 the power more then makes up for the way the bumper looks. For the headlights, Emax/Ethan did a nice write up on it on www.vqpower.com
You can always bust out with a dremel and G-rig the front lip to fit. Emax02 did this. It looks fine but when your upclose from what he states its obvious its been rigged up. I think the 2k1 front bumper would fit but price, ect... I have no clue about. I personally like the bumper of the 2k-2k1 better then the 2k2-2k3 version of the 5th gen but Im just gonna go 4 a 2k3 the power more then makes up for the way the bumper looks. For the headlights, Emax/Ethan did a nice write up on it on www.vqpower.com
other than that, you should be set....oh yeah, also will not be able to take off that grill ever again, since you will be switching over to that front bumper style.
#4
On the headlights I actually didnt use anything and still fine so far. Its all about heating up the goop nice and gooey and then seal it back up. Some can use that black headlight sealant, I forget where you can get it from.
Dixit
Dixit
#5
i got my sealant from pep boys.. i think it cost like $8... i used about 1.5 tubes.. wanted to be safe .. been about 4 months... no precipitation inside wutsoever... just gets kinda messy.. be sure to let it dry completely... and if there's any on the glass of ur headlights... jus heat it up with the heatgun or hairdryer and wipe it off...
#6
Originally posted by PoLo
2k2-2k3 front bumper is 4 inches wider. so you would have to stretch to "fit" the ae lip onto it. now, if you swap to the 2k1 bumper, the major difference is the headlights. because 2k2's had hid's, the bumper is about 1/4" to 1/2" shorter right under the headlight. this is because the mounting for the ballast. you'd have to squeeze the hid's back on or shave that bit off. you'd understand it more if you saw it. just look at your 2k2 and you'll see that the part under the headlight seems lower than the rest.
other than that, you should be set....oh yeah, also will not be able to take off that grill ever again, since you will be switching over to that front bumper style.
2k2-2k3 front bumper is 4 inches wider. so you would have to stretch to "fit" the ae lip onto it. now, if you swap to the 2k1 bumper, the major difference is the headlights. because 2k2's had hid's, the bumper is about 1/4" to 1/2" shorter right under the headlight. this is because the mounting for the ballast. you'd have to squeeze the hid's back on or shave that bit off. you'd understand it more if you saw it. just look at your 2k2 and you'll see that the part under the headlight seems lower than the rest.
other than that, you should be set....oh yeah, also will not be able to take off that grill ever again, since you will be switching over to that front bumper style.
stretch???? what do u use to stretch it?? sounds really impossible but i heard emax done it....
#9
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I'm glad someone started this thread because I have my frosted lenses just sitting on my desk, waiting for me to get the cajones to open my HIDs and put them in. For those that used new silicone sealant to close them up...did you scrape off all the old silicone first and start fresh or did you put it right on top of the old silicone?
#10
I'm working with PJ at Maxxtuning to get the Stillen Aero lip made for us 2k2/3 guys. I posted a thread about 2-3 weeks ago that if you are interested in the kit to e-mail him at info@maxxtuningusa.com. He has to see interest to warrant the upfront costs. How can you have the lip custom molded in and how much does it run?
#11
Originally posted by BiggD23
I'm glad someone started this thread because I have my frosted lenses just sitting on my desk, waiting for me to get the cajones to open my HIDs and put them in. For those that used new silicone sealant to close them up...did you scrape off all the old silicone first and start fresh or did you put it right on top of the old silicone?
I'm glad someone started this thread because I have my frosted lenses just sitting on my desk, waiting for me to get the cajones to open my HIDs and put them in. For those that used new silicone sealant to close them up...did you scrape off all the old silicone first and start fresh or did you put it right on top of the old silicone?
#12
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Originally posted by skandalouz
i removed a lot of the original silicone to make it easier to open... probably about 1/3 or so was gone... .. but i left the other 2/3 and added new silicone on top of that...
i removed a lot of the original silicone to make it easier to open... probably about 1/3 or so was gone... .. but i left the other 2/3 and added new silicone on top of that...
Thanks skandalouz. One more question for you...what exactly is the deal with how the frosted lenses go in? I assume the orange lens just pops out from behind right? Does the frosted lens fit in snug enough that you can just push it in by hand and it holds it? Or do you need to silicone that in place as well?
#13
I used a clear glue to hold the plexi in place. I didn’t want it popping out at some point. Depending on the thickness you might need to dremel off the little tabs on the plastic to make a snug fit.
I didn't use anything when I first put my lights back in but they fogged up. Then I re-opened them and used a silicon for boats. Sealed them back and they still fogged up.
I had to remove the top little running light for about 2 weeks then the air in there was fine. Haven't seen mist since and it has been about 9-10 months.
I didn't use anything when I first put my lights back in but they fogged up. Then I re-opened them and used a silicon for boats. Sealed them back and they still fogged up.
I had to remove the top little running light for about 2 weeks then the air in there was fine. Haven't seen mist since and it has been about 9-10 months.
#14
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Originally posted by dblrr900
Depending on the thickness you might need to dremel off the little tabs on the plastic to make a snug fit.
Depending on the thickness you might need to dremel off the little tabs on the plastic to make a snug fit.
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