After reading over the last year multiple post about MAF failures I have my own theory that I would like to bounce off of the experts....

Many have said the failures are from a new intake, Apex filters, oil from K&N filters or vibration. However, a single cause for all the failures has yet to be found.

My understanding is that the MAF receives increasing amount of current as you accelerate.(to heat the wire which then measures air flow, correct?)

I have also noticed posts here that many MAFs suddenly stopped working during WOT. (a common story seems to be that "I was getting off the on ramp on to the highway and suddenly my car cut out")

Therefore, could the failures simply be from aggressive driving? Could subjecting the MAF to recurrent voltage spikes during repeated episodes of WOT be leading to an electrical failure of the unit???

This could explain why we have seen failures with all types of intakes. It could also explain why we seem to have more failures than the average Maxima drive...those on this board are more passionate about driving and are more likely to "floor it".

What do you think?

 

nah.

 

maybe what you said is true.....but there are still more failed MAF than other vehicles

 

Yes because the MAFs were poorly designed and can't handle the higher currents during repeated episodes of WOT. If the MAFs had better electronic guts we would not be seeing the problem.

 

It's a good theory but i don't think it holds. I'm sure there's also quite a number of people having the stock airboxes going WOT many a times - me being one of them.

28k miles and still holding. I also changed my filter several k miles ago with a dry-type from Microgard.

And to think i have one of the very first 2k2's made (July 2001 build date) - so i probably have the same problematic MAF's as everyone else.

 

I have a PRCAI and my new Injen which bought from soundmike and I have had no problems with mine. It's more like a lightbulb the filament burns out or breaks like said it heats up and since it's colder air coming from it it tries to get hot and burns out.

 

hrm.... maybe that's what's wrong with my other car.. dumb thing stalls when i get on an onramp, scares the bajeezes outa me

 

Usually when the MAF goes you'll get a check engine light and the RPMs won't go above 2000. However, some have reported performance problems as the MAF starts to go bad before it goes completely.

 

My MAF went bad at 40k with a bone stock airbox and filter.

 

I agree. I drive very hard on my Maxima. Accelerating to redline daily. I have had 1 bad MAF. My check engine light is back on again 6,000 miles later after accelerating hard onto the freeway right @ redline. I have a stock intake.

I haven't had time to take it in. I'm going to guess its going to be the MAF again. I will let you guys know.

In California 3 repairs of the same part will make my car eligible for LEMON LAW

 

Yes, let us know if it is the MAF again.

 

Wish I had some warning... WOT then dead stick.

BTW guys, I dont' buy the oiled filter theory. I had a K&N in the stock air box for about 20k miles w/ no problem... & I have a lead foot!

 

I installed my frankencar w/Apexi filter on the same day i picked up my 2k3 brand new!..

So my car has never been driven with the stock airbox.. I now have 15,000kms.. drive my car hard, and ran it at the track on friday.. still no check engine light or MAF failure.

We are not the only one plagued with MAF failures.. Subarues had this as well...

 

having a filter doesn't cause the maf to blow, it's when you over oil the filter.

 

G35S/C's are also eating MAFs.. some with intakes, some w/o. Not just you guys.

 

I'm very inclined to believe the theory of the wire (or electronics supporting it) burning out like a filament due to the intense current... ESPECIALLY with the higher airflow of our V6's.
The sad part is, I doubt that will get any better, unless they design a MAF sensor with a thicker wire that can handle the extra current...

 

Unfortunately you are probably right, With so many MAF failures there appears to be an inherent problem in design. Perhaps after market intakes and over-oiling the filter may exacerbate the problem
but with so many stock failures somethin just ain't right

If my second MAF goes someone at the nissan dealership is going to get a serious ***-kickin

 

you don't really think that a failed MAF is going to be justification for them buying back the car, do you? That's like trying to get a new car because rotors warp... they'll just replace them again.

good luck if that's what you're thinking.

 

My MAF failed the same day I installed my Frankencar with Apexi. They forgot to send me a mounting bracket but I installed it anyway. Now, I'm positive my failure was due to vibration. There may be many causes, but mine seems obvious. I made a mount out of a 2x4 fastener from Home Depot and used a couple washers with rubber on one side to give it some play. There is no longer any harsh vibration, just dampened movement. We'll see how long this setup lasts.

 

Ok,

For those of you whose MAFs died what was the weather like?

Here's the MAFs construction

1) Temperature Diode (measures hot film temperature)
2) Hot film with current (receives current based on diode reportings)

That's it. If it dies under WOT it's likely that the MAF is getting a lot of voltage into the hot film, and the diode is reporting a temperature. So either the hot film buys it, and the ECU realizes it's not getting any voltage back, or the diode buys it. Either way, you have a dead car.

Now, if this is happening in the winter time, then I would say, WAI or CAI might be at fault because it may subject the MAF to lower temperatures and freezes it. But in that case the car is in closed loop mode where NO sensors are being read, so when it finally warms up, the sensors are being scanned by the ECU and it then realizes "dead MAF".

It could be that somehow the hot film is not ready for some voltage spikes (and that it's getting more voltage than spec) and blowing, and if my hunch is right, usually in warm weather where it overheats and dies, especially if it's "on the line" for failure where a little extra voltage will blow it.

This may also be why Nissan specs a new MAF for the hesitation/lack of power TSBs because they have a better new part. The Altima guys are reporting the same problem over there. We should check which MAF we all have and see if it's the same part number. Someone started that thread a while back but a lot of people didn't know how to get the P/N.

It's a serious issue when you're in limp mode going home methinks. Nissan really should do something about this. I'll find out what the new MAF is like tomorrow on my Alty.

Regards, and luck,

10e

 

The responses bring up two questions:

Has anyone had a MAF go bad who doesn't WOT on a regular basis??

Why isn't there an aftermarket MAF that's better made?

 

My 2000 Max MAF failed at 37K, however I'm a frequent user of WOT and often encounter the rev limiter in gears 1 thru 3.

Nissan replaced it for free even though it was just out of warranty! (pretty cool, eh)

No problems since, and now have over 66K miles.

Jason French
2000 5sp Max

 

FYI, the TSB NTB01-036A states the part number for the new airflow meter assembly as "22680-2Y001". I'm not sure if this is any different from the stock one...

 

If this increased air flow theory were true, I would assume you would be seeing us force induction folks with superchargers and turbos blowing MAF's every few thousand miles... I still have my original MAF and I'm on 43,000 miles. My turbo is also running at 10psi, so I'm flowing lots of air.

Bryan

 

That's interesting. Maybe it's hit-or-miss regarding this issue?
Probably poor manufacturing (on whoever manufacturers the actual MAF)