CCx

iTrader: (2)

i swear i'll pay so i can use search next time....anyway, i get a noise that's audible from 0-45 mph, squeek squeek squeeeeeek you can hear it every wheel revolution, the slower i go, the more prounounced it is....however, the second i even tap the brakes, it goes away -- i had my front rotors and pads replaced and it still makes the noise, is it my rears? i suppose the sound could be coming from the rears, too hard to tell while driving because it's so damn annoying and sounds like it's coming from all over the place....either i have to go fast everywhere or ride the brakes if i dont want to hear the squeeeeeek ....and what would it be, pads, rotors or both? i was eventually going to replace both pads and rotors in the back to match the front ones but if it's something cheap and easy, i'll go out and spend the money tomorrow to get it done....someone clue me in please, thanks

sloppymax

iTrader: (8)

sounds like the low pad indicator to me. how long ago did you have the pads replaced in the front? rears should last longer than front since more braking is put on the front than the rears and the car is much heavier in the front obviously.

jmd102

Sounds like your rotors may be slightly out of true. Bonehead techs (some) don't hand torque wheels and distort rotors. Also make sure the pads have the factory shim plates in place. These fit between the pad(s) and the caliper. They are there to dampen vibration (squealing). Did they dis-assemble the sliders and lube with the proper grease?? If they are tight or sticky, it all can add up to a drive you nuts squealing problem. They may have also used sub-standard pads as well. Take it back for warranty and have them drive it 1st. goodluck.
Mark

CCx

iTrader: (2)

both the pads and rotors were replaced on the front, i had an .org member do the brakes because i wanted them done right, so i watched him and he took the time to do everything just right - the noise was occurring before i got the pads and rotors repaced in the front which is why i thought maybe it might be the rears, 44k on the car, purchased with 35k on it so i'm not sure how hard the previous owner might have beat on the brakes but, the fronts were in TERRIBLE shape when we replaced them....

Mick Max

A very recent thread, most peeps posted that the rears went first. And often needed the most rotor replacement.

NYC2SD

Could be a caliper hanging up.

CCx

iTrader: (2)

Noise has disappeared, been replaced by heavy, almost obnoxious metal on metal grinding coming from the rear. Assuming it's brakes since it happens while brakes are pressed, my question is two-fold:

1. Pads AND rotors need replacement? (Before I spent the money on both, just want to make sure)

1a. The grinding has been occuring for roughly a week. If I have to order new rotors online they will take almost a week to get delivered, can I afford to wait that long or does it not matter since I would be replacing them anyway?

2. The noise also occurs while accelerating slowly from a stop, with no brake being pressed, can I assume this is some sort of after-affect of the heavy grinding?

Thanks in advance, looking to buy whatever I have to today so quick replies are very appreciated, happy holidays!

Zero Deuce SE

Have you inspected the rears to verify the metal on metal? If they are worn that far, you will need both pads and rotors. The longer you drive it like that, the more you wear out the brakes and the your braking efficiency is dangerously reduced. I would not drive the car until the rear brakes were fixed.

CCx

iTrader: (2)

No, have not inspected them but the noise cannot be mistaken, just a real real ill grinding noise, very slow and long lasting, no squeek anymore, just grinding. I do have to continue driving as it's my daily driver and I have no other car, but if both the pads and rotors need to be replaced, I'll go ahead and order them right away from nopi.com who seems to have a great price on brembo blank rotors and hope that they get here sometime next week.

Zero Deuce SE

Disc brakes are designed so the discs are always in slight contact with the pads. There is enough runout to help the caliper piston release the presssure once you stop braking. The runout helps the square piston seal do it's job better. Unlike drum brakes, disc brakes hold residual pressure in the brake lines so they are always ready to work as soon as you apply braking force with the brake pedal. They don't require the extra effort that drum brakes do. What you are hearing is something that always occurs but you don't notice it with good brake pads and rotors.

Zero Deuce SE

Well, if you must drive it, be extremely careful. If you have to make an emergency stop, you might have a real hard time with only half of your normal capacity. I would also recommend paying for faster shipping to get the new brakes quicker.

CCx

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much for the information, they are being ordered with 2-day shipping as we speak. Thanks again!

Zero Deuce SE

You're very welcome. Glad that I could help. Have a happy, prosperous and safe New Year.