Fog Light rewire instructions
Originally Posted by jkmay01
sooner I see what u r saying here. I am not one to make waves! if the thread is year or however old and u want no more additions to threads can u close them? my intention is not to reopen threads

If the thread is year or however old and u want no more additions to thread can u stop searching for them and replying to them?
JUST WONDERING I'm installing 8500K HID fogs and will be rewiring them soon. Will i run into any problems with such a strong HID (8500K) ????????
Does the rewire provide enough power for the 8500k HID'S???
any input i would really appreciate bein a NEW-B haha
Does the rewire provide enough power for the 8500k HID'S???
any input i would really appreciate bein a NEW-B haha
HID fog-light rewire provide enough power??????
JUST WONDERING I'm installing 8500K HID fogs and will be rewiring them soon. Will i run into any problems with such a strong HID (8500K) ????????
Does the rewire provide enough power for the 8500k HID'S???
any input i would really appreciate bein a NEW-B haha
Does the rewire provide enough power for the 8500k HID'S???
any input i would really appreciate bein a NEW-B haha
Originally Posted by slvrmax7
JUST WONDERING I'm installing 8500K HID fogs and will be rewiring them soon. Will i run into any problems with such a strong HID (8500K) ????????
Does the rewire provide enough power for the 8500k HID'S???
any input i would really appreciate bein a NEW-B haha
Does the rewire provide enough power for the 8500k HID'S???
any input i would really appreciate bein a NEW-B haha
The temperature of the HIDs has nothing to do with the power output. The wattage is what you need to look at. Most HIDs are 35W which is less than the stock foglights. You will be safe installing 35W HIDs.
Why the hell is this thread brought back from the dead? And he has been on the org since 02. Would have thought he would have some common sense to see when this thread had ended before posting.
Originally Posted by The Law
Why the hell is this thread brought back from the dead? And he has been on the org since 02. Would have thought he would have some common sense to see when this thread had ended before posting.
Playing devil's advocate here...
I think most newcomers have come up with a dilemma:
a) If they post a new thread, most old-timers will tell them to use the search function, giving them a hard time about it
b) If they do use the search function, find an old thread that answers part of their question but need more info, they're also being hit on for responding to that thread instead of starting a new one
It's a fine line, really, but honestly i think it should be okay either way. Everyone's post is what keeps traffic up on the site. More traffice = more advertising revenue for the powers-that-be.
I think most newcomers have come up with a dilemma:
a) If they post a new thread, most old-timers will tell them to use the search function, giving them a hard time about it
b) If they do use the search function, find an old thread that answers part of their question but need more info, they're also being hit on for responding to that thread instead of starting a new one
It's a fine line, really, but honestly i think it should be okay either way. Everyone's post is what keeps traffic up on the site. More traffice = more advertising revenue for the powers-that-be.
Originally Posted by soundmike
If they do use the search function, find an old thread that answers part of their question but need more info, they're also being hit on for responding to that thread instead of starting a new one
there is no reason to bump a 3 year old thread by answering a question that was also answered 3 years ago.
this is the post that bumped this 3 year old thread...not needed
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=29
Originally Posted by MacAlert
I can't believe this thread is still going on.
Originally Posted by soonerfan
i understand that and have no problem with a old thread being bumped if it contains new info or if it contains a new question.
there is no reason to bump a 3 year old thread by answering a question that was also answered 3 years ago.
this is the post that bumped this 3 year old thread...not needed
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=29
there is no reason to bump a 3 year old thread by answering a question that was also answered 3 years ago.
this is the post that bumped this 3 year old thread...not needed
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=29
macalert does his own work?
Originally Posted by 95bluse
I can't believe you're driving that car with one side of the suspension broken like that...It's dangerous, I suggest you grab some Monroe Sensa-trac, they're on 2-for-1 special this month at Midas.


Originally Posted by 95bluse
I can't believe you're driving that car with one side of the suspension broken like that...It's dangerous, I suggest you grab some Monroe Sensa-trac, they're on 2-for-1 special this month at Midas.
Ok, Ok.....I used Housecor's write-up on the fog rewire how-to yesterday for my 02SE. Before trying, I went to Radio Shack and asked for a Quick Tap, and the salesperson had no idea what I was talking about. So, they showed me all kind of connectors, but none looked like a y-type and I left empty-handed.
I tried to strip off the wire sheath for the taillight wire (red/grn) and stipped the end of the blue wire from the fog circuit. I wrapped the bare blue wire around the bare red/grn wire and taped them together. Here's the weird part--the lights work exactly same as stock. It was so cold and windy here yesterday that I was in a hurry to put it all back together without checking.
2 questions:
1) How is the circuit functioning exactly the same? This doesn't make sense to me.
2) Is there another name for a Quick Tap that a Radio Shack rep would recognize?
I tried to strip off the wire sheath for the taillight wire (red/grn) and stipped the end of the blue wire from the fog circuit. I wrapped the bare blue wire around the bare red/grn wire and taped them together. Here's the weird part--the lights work exactly same as stock. It was so cold and windy here yesterday that I was in a hurry to put it all back together without checking.
2 questions:
1) How is the circuit functioning exactly the same? This doesn't make sense to me.
2) Is there another name for a Quick Tap that a Radio Shack rep would recognize?
Thanks, Sooner. It looks like you have to strip the second wire (wire you're tapping into) to get them to connect. Does it use like an electrolyte gel to connect the two, or is there a physical connection inside the tap?
Originally Posted by Merlot02SE
Thanks, Sooner. It looks like you have to strip the second wire (wire you're tapping into) to get them to connect. Does it use like an electrolyte gel to connect the two, or is there a physical connection inside the tap?
the wires go inside and then you use pliers to press in that metal tab. the tab cuts into the wires and makes the connection and holds the wires in.
Ok, nevermind, guys. I'm really better at carpentry and plumbing. I think I took the wrong blue wire. I took the blue wire with the black stripe and silver dots from the Mirror relay instead of the blue wire with silver dots from the fog relay. That's why the fogs still worked. I'll re-attempt and let you know how it goes.....
Ok, that worked. Took me 15 minutes to clean up and put tools away. Sheesh, if I had just followed his directions exactly, I wouldn't have been in that mess. Still the fuse/relay box is much too difficult to get under when your hands are cold, and then it's just better if you remove the coolant overflow reservoir first. That way, you have more leeway with the wires cuz they only flip out on that end, and with the jug out of the way, you can flip it over much further.
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