I had the code checked and it came back P0505, Idle control malfunction. It did not want to idle that great, so i bought a brand new idle control valve and put it in, disconnected the battery, no ses and idling was good. 30 minutes of driving and the light is back on, same code...P0505.. (i cleaned the throttle body too while i was there)... it idles fine now around 800rpm but the damn ses light is driving me crazy..

The car also has a loss of power. It drives ok if you shift at under 3k rpms, but it you go over it feels like it gets fuel cut, and when you floor the accelerator, it is damn slow, it revs sooo slowly, it actually faster if you are light on the pedal..

Also, when you clutch in to shift the rpms wont drop. for example.. rev up to 3k in 1st gear, step on clutch, (my foot is off the accelerator) but the rpms stay at 3k for a second or two then drop. they dont drop when i clutch in right away...

This is all on a 2000 Max SE, 5sp. always 93oct. fuel, clean 5w30 oil...

The search does not work, so i would really appreciate the help.. What else could be causing this?

 

No body knows? i am sure i am not the only one... In fact, i found out nissan has a TSB for this #041.. but i have no access to it.. can anyone link me to the tsb?

thanks

 

I don't have a copy of the TSB, but the TSB summary (below) says you have to do the Idle Air Volume Learning prodedure. The procedure do to that is buried in THIS THREAD

If one of the Applied Vehicles above has a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0505 AAC/V stored, with no customer driveability incident, it may be caused by an elevated or incorrect engine idle speed setting. In some of these cases, the Idle Air Volume Learning (IAVL) procedure should be performed to resolve the incident. Use the Service Procedure outlined in this Bulletin to identify and address this incident. NOTE: The Idle Air Volume Learning (IAVL) procedure referenced here is a new procedure for the Applied Vehicles. Idle speed is now completely controlled by the Applied Vehicle's ECM.

 

I had the same problem with my idle control valve. My car was over the 4yr/60k warranty. A few weeks ago I brought it to Infiniti dealership and had to change the idle control valve and the ECM for $$$. They said the malfunction idle control valve shorted out the ECM so both have to be replaced. how did you get to the idle control valve?

 

A bad ICV shouldn't short out the ECU/ECM. But even if it does, remind them that the ECU is covered as part of the 8/80 federal emissions warranty. Maybe they "forgot".

 

good info thanks. I tried going through the procedure but i cant get the tps (brown connector) off. Its got this weird green clip that you have to depress.. no matter how hard i depress it the plug will not come out...

Is there a trick to unplugging this?

To replace the iacv, got a new one from the stealer, and had to take off the throttle body as its screwed to the bottom of the TB...

I hope this will clear it up. any info on the plug would be appreciated..

thanks again

 

That's the same kind of electrical connector used on other components such as the ignition coils, O2 sensor harness, etc. What you need to do is depress the green cliip with a screwdriver, press down on the connector slightly, and then pull it off. Practice on one of the O2 sensor connectors located at the front of the engine just behind the radiator since they're far easier to get to. Once you get the hang of it, they're pretty easy to remove (and yes, I know that particular brown connector is rather difficult to get to )