Hey guys, I was going to be putting some H&R/GR2s on my 2000 Max, but I was quoted $200 for the installation. That's a grip of cash and I was hoping to do it myself. I got all the stuff from the installations page (Koni Install, Spring/Strut Swap (add-on Punkdork), & fish's spring install how-to), but is there any other advice or write-ups you know of that you could show me before I start? I've done oil changes before, but nothing this big. Since I can't search, anything would help. Also, a list of tools I would need would be helpful. I don't really want to run back and forth to the tool shop. Thanks! This site rocks.

 

Be patient. Good Luck!!
Try and check your strut dust boots now. I needed one and ordered it from the dealership. It took them a week to get it in. If you can see what kind of shape they are in, then you'll know if you need them.
I've had pretty bad luck so far. I first stripped a rear bolt connecting the strut to the axle. Had to chop it off with a sawzall and replace bolt. Then I needed 1 front strut boot. Installed springs and struts while waiting for boot to come in. After my boot came in, I went to install it and noticed that my CV joint was busted and crapping all over. So now I swapped front spring/strut back to stock. Actually I was only able to install the sping/strut on that 1 side. Because I lost one of my lug lock keys. I'm bringing it to the dealership with stock strut/spring on one side and Maxspeed on the other. The CV joint is still under warranty. After this is done I'll swap the one side out again then finally align. Ask any question's I've encountered everything.

 

Yikes. Maybe I should just pay for the install. I don't even know what half the parts you're talking about look like (dust boot, CV joint). I'm pretty good with taking things apart (though not necessarily putting them back together), but I'm hoping that I'll manage since $200 is a small fortune.

 

Have someone to help you... thats a big plus. If you know anyone with any previous spring install it should be cake (but time consuming). It is very rewarding IMO.

 

You can do it on your own. It someone helps you, you can get it done lot quicker.

While you have taken your spring/strut, you can check for any abnormal sign; tares on rubber boot for example. You will see it for yourself when you have taken spring/strut out.

Just make sure you get a wheel alignment after the installation.

 

head down to RPM motorworks in anaheim, its only $90 bucks if you don't have the time.

its a pain doing it by yourself for the first time, especially without air compressed tools and the cheap autozone spring compressors

 

It can be done easily. This is my first time doing this. Save the $200 and put it towards a UDP. That's what I did. If everything goes smoothly the install isn't too bad. I installed my UDP with the strut assembly out. It made it much easier.

 

I intend to price out local shops for a strut replacement, as I do not have the tools or workspace (driveway covered in ice/snow, can't get up, and I have to basically park on ice...). Hopefully $200 is the UPPER limit of what I'll be quoted... I am not going to be taken for a ride for something like this. There's a new shop that opened up this summer which advertising "racing solution" type stuff along with typical autocare... gonna check these guys out and see how they are (hopefully they're cheap underdogs trying to build up their business... I rarely see many cars on their lot)

Last time I tried to do a strut replacement on a car, I had a hell of a time... I could buy a cheap electric impact wrench to make it easier to remove some of the bolts, but I remember the kind of frustration I went through... no workbench w/ vise, no impact wrench for tightening the spring compressor, etc. I ended up accidentally snapping one of the strut tower studs, which blew the whole job for me. This was an old car though (1988 Nissan Pulsar NX SE)

 

That price sounds good, but Anahiem is far. Might end up costing the same with gas...$2.11/gal, ugh.

Anyone know of any good install shops around the Downtown Los Angeles area (closer than Anahiem). My springs and struts have been sitting in my closet for about 4 months now and it would be nice to get them installed. If I could get it installed for $90 or less, I'd be estatic.

 

just make sure the top hat goes in correctly in the front or you'll be sure to do the suspension again hunting clunking.. Make sure "Out" on the tophat is faced toward you, aligned with the bracket on the bottom of the shock. Make sure the sleeve is on the bottom and the spring doesn't directly contact the perch.
Ive done mine so many times, im down to about an hour for the whole car.

 

anyone know where to get them put on cheap in the Baltimore area? PM me please

 

I'll be finding that out soon myself... (Westminster/Carroll Co. area for me)

 

just dont do like i did when i had my car on jack stands and lean on it, the car fell on the axels and rotors!!! but all was ok

 

That's nasty.


~limsandy

 

damn how did that happend when i had my car on all four jackstands i could lean on it get in the trunk woithout a problem......

-J

 

Are you saying you are suppose to put something between spring and the perch?

 

So like I was saying, anyone know of any good shops around the Los Angeles area that does the spring/strut installation for about $90 or less?

 

Hmm, I might hold off and do it myself, who knows. One question-- What tools do you typically use to remove the strut's top nut? (locking pliers & impact wrench, a special socket for the half-flat top threads, or what?)

And I understand it's best to remove the ABS wheel sensor in the rear before removing the bottom mounting bolt for the rear struts... is this easy?

 

Ammi, there is a sleeve that comes with your setup already, use that. There is also some rubber stuff i cant think of the name right now that you wrap around the spring to prevent the coils from touching each other. they are already cut, you just wrap around it.

Spirilis, the top nut should be loosened while the car is still on the ground or at least while the suspension is still on the car. or else you'll never be able to take it off. DONT TAKE IT OFF. just loosen it. take the outer 3 nuts off. once the spring is compressed and off the car... you can undo the top hat bolt. everything will then come apart. make sure you study how everything is put.

and one more thing that i always forgot...
DONT FORGET THE GASKETS!!!!!!
or else.........

 

Oh that rubber thing. Mine is towards the top of the spring.

I did not see any gaskets though

 

i think the sleeve should be on the bottom, although i could be wrong, i dont remember. 99% sure its the bottom though.

the gasket should be betgween the top hat and the body of the car....orange gasket, unless its just stuck to the body from under, you shouldn't miss it...

 

I hope it's not much of a problem having the sleeves on top. Whoever changed the springs before did that. I'll move that down next week.

 

here is a basic rundown on how to do it...

For rear:
1. Jack up rear end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift). Note: Don't jack it up by the axle or you'll have "fun" getting it back together.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Remove the trunk liner.
4. There are 3 bolts on top of each strut. They can be found where the trunk meets the back seat. There is a metal guard over the bolts...don't bother trying to remove the guard...it will require removing a lot of crap you don't want to remove.
5. Figure out some way to remove them (I used 2 socket extensions together. They are 14mm. Remove the outter 2 bolts, leaving the one in the center. This process is a huge pain-in-the-***, but not nearly as hard as tightening the bolts later.
6. Remove the large bolt connecting the strut to the axle (will need a breaker bar or equivalent). At this point, the strut will fall, so hold on to it.
7. At this point, you should loosen the top hat bolt (DO NOT REMOVE). Once the spring has been compressed, the top hat will rotate the entire strut rod, and if you haven't loosened the bolt it will be a PIA to get off later.
8. Compress the spring.
9. Remove the top hat mechanism.
10. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
11. Do steps above steps in reverse. After attaching the top hat mechanism, spin down the bolt a bit (the strut rod will begin spinning with the bolt), once you decompress the spring you will be able fully tighten the bolt much easier.


For front:
1. Jack up front end of car and put it on jackstands (or use a lift).
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Slightly loosen the center bolt on top of each strut.
4. Undo the 3 bolts around top of each strut. They are 14mm
5. Undo the two big bolts at the bottom of the strut (will need a breaker bar or equivalent). The bolts are 19mm and the nuts are 17mm. It will be easier to do this with a break bar and wratchet combination.
6. Remove all the brake line clips from the bottom of the strut (there is a total of 3).
7. Remove the strut assembly from the car.
8. Compress the spring.
9. Remove the top hat (thats the middle bolt). Watch yourself as you remove the center bolt as the top coil on the spring will likely "pop" up as soon as the bolt comes off...it can catch you off guard and be dangerous if you're not ready for it.
10. If you are replacing springs, compress the new spring and then put it back on the strut.
11. Do above steps in reverse. I was unable to reattach one of the brake lines, however the lines seem adequately held by the two clips.


Note from ArcticMax: Keep in mind, when replacing the strut assembly that the trailer arms can be moved up and down to help align the bolt at the bottom of the assembly behind the rotor. Don't struggle with it too long...just push up or down on the rotor or trailer arm and the bolt hole will move for you.

It's always good to have someone help you during the process

Enjoy.

 

well make sure first..ask someone thats freshly done them. It wouldnt make sense for the spring to be touching the perch. im actually positive its on the bottom, but just get someone to second that. I may be wrong, i doubt it though......

 

Yes the sleeve is on the bottom.

 

Excellent write-up maximadave.

The only thing I would add is this: If you have plenty of time to do this project, take the extra 20 minutes to completely remove the back seat and the steel panel between the passenger compartment and the trunk. There are about 15 bolts total, but it saves TONS of headaches when removing and replacing the nuts at the top of the rear struts.

This was one of the first do-it-yourself things that I did to my car. I feel like I have a lot better knowledge of the suspension and how it works now that I've done it myself.

 

Would this job be much easier with the use of, say, an electric impact wrench (for loosening the top hat bolt, loosening that bottom bolt for the rear struts, and loosening the nut/bolt combo at the bottom of the front struts)?

At this point, I'm curious about the top nuts for the rear struts... maximadave implies it's a PITA to loosen and tighten them?

 

i dont know how an electric one will compare to an air tool impact wrench, but the air tools barely do the job.

 

try impex motorsports in san gabriel, they charge around 60 70 bucks. they installed my tien/illumina's in 40 minutes.

 

the ground was wet and i was in a hurry!

 

yeah you shoudl slap urself that was kinda dumb

-J

 

Damn, that's a great price. Now that's what I'm talking about. Where are they located exactly and how's the service there?

 

This can definately be done yourself. I swapped out my springs and struts all by myself. It is definately a PIA doing it alone but it can be done. I had to do mine about 3 times within the past week. Ask me any questions you might have concerning this or a UDP install. The install isn't too difficult. After you install you'll have a deeper since of pride for doing it yourself.

 

Why 3 times?

 

Why do it myself when it's $60 - $70 at the autoshop mentioned above? I'm figuring it'll take 6-7 hrs if I do it myself, so if I did it, my time would be worth $10/hr. I get paid more than that at work. I'd also have to buy more tools, the stress, and most importantly time used that I really should have put to studying. Autoshop is better deal. Maybe when I have lots of free time in future I'll give it a swing. Thanks.

 

I about to this in the spring. I hear people say to shave the bumpstop, Can anyone post pics of a bumpstop, and where do I shave it.

thanks

 

they pretty koo peeps, they are located right across the street from SPREWELL. go to there website http://impexusa.com/ for the address.

 

If you can get it done for $60-70 definately worth it. But make sure it's a reputable shop, not worth having somebody f#ck your car up. That's the main reason I did it myself.
The reason I had to do it 3 times is because, after first install I needed a dust boot and a spacer. It took them a week to get the part in. When parts arrived I went to swap out the dust boots, and noticed my CV joint was busted. So I went ahead and put the new strut and spring back on till I could bring it back in to dealership for CV joint. Joint is still under warranty. I ended up losing one of my lug keys and could only get the wheel off where the joint was busted. So I brought the car in to have the CV joint replaced with Maxspeed spring and Tokico strut on one side. And factory strut and spring on the busted CV joint side. They swapped it out without even noticing. Went home that day and swapped that strut and spring back out. I got an alignment the next day. Sucks cause I still need to get the 2 lock nuts off.

 

Its not really the price but more of the satisfaction of getting it done cause you know how to do it. But 60 - 70 isn't bad at all... I say jump on it.

 

Sleeves are only for the front or rear too?