Knockin and Pingin
#1
Knockin and Pingin
Ok guys, take it easy on the newcomer. The Max is driving me crazy. I always put at minimum 93 octane in it, before anyone asks. I've tried 4 different brands (BP, Sunoco, etc.). Under acceleration, I get bad pinging and knocking. About 2 months ago I got the check engine light and the code was for an oxygen sensor, about 2 or so trips to work, and the light went off. It was doing the knocking before the light came on...but could this be the cause? I'm at a complete loss.
Can my knock sensor possibly be starting to go bad? Any troubleshooting solutions would help. I've been told to disconnect the oxy sensor and drive the car to see if running it without any adjustments makes it go away. Can I do the same thing with the knock sensor?
Can my knock sensor possibly be starting to go bad? Any troubleshooting solutions would help. I've been told to disconnect the oxy sensor and drive the car to see if running it without any adjustments makes it go away. Can I do the same thing with the knock sensor?
#4
It's a 2000 SE and there are no other codes. I love the Max...and don't want to hurt the engine. I've also been told it could be carbon buildup and I should clean out everything I can and run some cleaner through the engine. But I figured you guys know my car exactly, so I will go with what you recommend.
Any way to test the coils with a multimeter?
Any way to test the coils with a multimeter?
#5
Originally Posted by shearer347
It's a 2000 SE and there are no other codes. I love the Max...and don't want to hurt the engine. I've also been told it could be carbon buildup and I should clean out everything I can and run some cleaner through the engine. But I figured you guys know my car exactly, so I will go with what you recommend.
#6
i've had the same problem too, atually i still have that problem. when my check engine light came on it was for the cod p0420 catalyst failure. i swapped out my coils once before but i guess it didn't help. i took it to the dealership and they did a flash update on the ecu.
#7
95% of my driving is highway 50MPH or higher. I don't have too much of a lead foot so I don't try to kill it. Car had 45k on it when I got it and the noise didn't start until around 65k (Currently milleage).
Everything else on the car was in immaculate condition. Is there anything that I can eliminate from being the problem?
Everything else on the car was in immaculate condition. Is there anything that I can eliminate from being the problem?
#8
I think you've eliminated the most obvious possibilities. I'd start with a good hard, high RPM romp to clean things out. It works for me usually. Have the dealer check for bad coils or other codes, some good fuel injector cleaner, clean your throttle body, and go from there. Good luck
#9
What service has been performed to date?
Change the plugs and VERIFY you've got the correct heat-range ones. If they're original with 65K, definitely time to change.
Change the plugs and VERIFY you've got the correct heat-range ones. If they're original with 65K, definitely time to change.
Originally Posted by shearer347
95% of my driving is highway 50MPH or higher. I don't have too much of a lead foot so I don't try to kill it. Car had 45k on it when I got it and the noise didn't start until around 65k (Currently milleage).
Everything else on the car was in immaculate condition. Is there anything that I can eliminate from being the problem?
Everything else on the car was in immaculate condition. Is there anything that I can eliminate from being the problem?
#10
WHAT?!?! Do NOT disconnect the O2-sensors and attempt to drive. At a minimum, you'll get a check-engine-light and go into limp mode.
It's not the knock sensor, it's something else.
It's not the knock sensor, it's something else.
Originally Posted by shearer347
Can my knock sensor possibly be starting to go bad? Any troubleshooting solutions would help. I've been told to disconnect the oxy sensor and drive the car to see if running it without any adjustments makes it go away. Can I do the same thing with the knock sensor?
#12
Ok, back to let you know how it is going. I put a tank of 94 Octane in the Max. The noise has gotten better, but still is there. Now, I know everyone is going to yell at me...but I disconnected the hardness for one of the O2 sensors on the front of the engine.
Oddly, no noise....
Any suggestions?
(I pluged it back in and reset about 5 minutes later and was back to knockin).
Oddly, no noise....
Any suggestions?
(I pluged it back in and reset about 5 minutes later and was back to knockin).
#13
If you disconnected one of the front sensors, it switched to open-loop, which dumps in excess fuel like you're at WOT.
That excess fuel will lower your air/fuel ratio, cool the combustion process, and reduce detonation.
If you do that for too long or at least a couple trips, you'll get a check engine light.
That excess fuel will lower your air/fuel ratio, cool the combustion process, and reduce detonation.
If you do that for too long or at least a couple trips, you'll get a check engine light.
#14
Changed the plugs today with OE plugs. I don't have any aftermarket items on the engine, yet. I'm going to try to look around some more. I did get the check engine light when the sensor was disconnected. I reset the ECU. Not sure what's up.
On another note, since I am going through one at a time cleaning everything up in the engine to eliminate problems, is it me, or is the original air intake equipment exceptionally unfit for the engine. I understand fuel economy, etc...but these engines from the factory have to be gasping for air...
On another note, since I am going through one at a time cleaning everything up in the engine to eliminate problems, is it me, or is the original air intake equipment exceptionally unfit for the engine. I understand fuel economy, etc...but these engines from the factory have to be gasping for air...
#15
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
If you disconnected one of the front sensors, it switched to open-loop, which dumps in excess fuel like you're at WOT.
That excess fuel will lower your air/fuel ratio, cool the combustion process, and reduce detonation.
If you do that for too long or at least a couple trips, you'll get a check engine light.
That excess fuel will lower your air/fuel ratio, cool the combustion process, and reduce detonation.
If you do that for too long or at least a couple trips, you'll get a check engine light.
#16
Not sure, probably check your plugs to make sure they're not close to fouling and also the other 02s could be covered in soot, so check them.
Running super rich shouldn't damage anything really, it just speeds up time to replace them.
Running super rich shouldn't damage anything really, it just speeds up time to replace them.
#17
Im Knocking as well, but I know that mine is a coil issue. I tried 3 different MAFs and replaced my plugs. I tried every brand of gas under the sun and it only got slightly better. Basically that is the last thing, and I hope i can get it warrantied.....
#18
Ok , I had the problem.... interestingly right around 60K -- now its about 63K on the car.... I had knocking noise everytime I accelerated -- I took it to the dealer last week and had the MAF replaced and suprisingly enough - the knocking stopped -- I also used everysingle brand of fuel and always used premium gas...The MAF is the problem , trust me , get that changed and youll be a happy camper. " I am " ! let me know if it helps.... ( most definelty will ).
#19
There is a Technical Service Bulletin related to this problem. It is the ignition coils. They will need to be replaced. If you have an extended warranty, it will be covered.
My 00 GXE had the problem. Naturally, the dealer blamed it on winter gas. BS! I found the TSB here, printed it out and took it to them. This time they hooked up a computer to it but no codes or errors were being reported, but they knew there was a problem. The replaced the coils per the TSB and everything worked bueatifully.
My 00 GXE had the problem. Naturally, the dealer blamed it on winter gas. BS! I found the TSB here, printed it out and took it to them. This time they hooked up a computer to it but no codes or errors were being reported, but they knew there was a problem. The replaced the coils per the TSB and everything worked bueatifully.
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