BlehmCo BBK...review and some pics...
05-11-2004, 06:27 PM
#41
Oh yeah, I didn't notice any appreciable loss in performance either. Maybe this is due to the fact that it's now 75F outside instead of ~80-90F earlier, but the car seems to pull a little better when I took it out for a test drive. At the very least, the performance difference isn't noticeable in comparison to a 10-20F increase in outside air temperature.
05-11-2004, 06:32 PM
#42
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by spirilis
...The left wheel seems to have a periodic (i.e. repetitive, you hear it once with every revolution of the wheel) scraping sound, which you can hear initially while rolling out of the driveway, and I could hear when I was rolling the wheels with the car jacked up. Not sure what it is, almost sounds like the rotor periodically touching the pad and moving away, as if the rotor (or something else) was slightly out of round. Not sure.
I'm gonna have to monitor how the car sounds from here on to see if that periodic "scraping" noise subsides... it does worry me, but at least I can drive it to work for the rest of the week, god forbid it somehow escalates into an issue.
I do recall that the top bracket-to-caliper bolt was difficult to install, in that I had the bottom one already installed and the top one seemed to go in with an occasional "scraping" noise. After backing out the bolts, I noticed the threads look somewhat flattened, but the bottom bolt looks like that too and I didn't have any trouble with it. I haven't removed the right side's bolts for comparison. Worst comes to worst, if this is the result of a slight crossthreading, I'll have to buy new mounting bolts from Matt, and a new caliper mount from DAVEB, hopefully that wouldn't be too much... but I pulled it out and re-tightened it as squarely as possible (could still hear the periodic noise), we'll see how it goes.
I'm gonna have to monitor how the car sounds from here on to see if that periodic "scraping" noise subsides... it does worry me, but at least I can drive it to work for the rest of the week, god forbid it somehow escalates into an issue.
I do recall that the top bracket-to-caliper bolt was difficult to install, in that I had the bottom one already installed and the top one seemed to go in with an occasional "scraping" noise. After backing out the bolts, I noticed the threads look somewhat flattened, but the bottom bolt looks like that too and I didn't have any trouble with it. I haven't removed the right side's bolts for comparison. Worst comes to worst, if this is the result of a slight crossthreading, I'll have to buy new mounting bolts from Matt, and a new caliper mount from DAVEB, hopefully that wouldn't be too much... but I pulled it out and re-tightened it as squarely as possible (could still hear the periodic noise), we'll see how it goes.
1) Your dust sheild has gotten "out of alignment". I had the same problem and when I was fitting/pushing and so on, I bent it a bit. Not sure how...but I did. Fix is basic. Twist and pull it with the rotor snugged to the hub (tire off, lugs fully seated on rotor face) as mine did not make the noise w/o the rotor being seated. The scraping on mine was very close to the ID of the rotor hat.
2) Getting the bolt to "line up" with the "hole" in the caliper is an exacting science and sometimes an effort in patience. The threads are sharp, but after a few ins and outs...it became ok. All of my bolts were "stiff". So I took a socket and a open ended wrench and worked them all down to the head and back up with the bolts by themselves. With the 19MM...I used the caliper and threaded each one as far as it would go and then back out.
Glad you like em...I do too!
05-11-2004, 06:36 PM
#43
spirilis - the sound you hear is the aluminum plate that is behind the rotor touching the rotor...the 2k4 rotor is slightly wider than the OEM one (very slight) but I found that same sound after my install. Just reach back there and bend the thing back a little and problem solved.
05-11-2004, 06:39 PM
#44
also, I also had trouble putting the new front pads in....with the piston completely compressed they still would not fit. I ended up taking out one of the two shims on the outside pad....then i could just barely get them in. No problems so far with squeaking or anything...
05-12-2004, 01:43 AM
#45
Cool, I'm gonna try bending the dust shield soon. I think Chinkzilla on the IRC chat mentioned that as well.
I don't use shims at all, so my caliper did fit over the pads nicely. But boy is that close! I did have a little trouble fitting the PBR Metal Master pads into the inner guides, not sure what that was about... maybe I have too much caked anti-squeal brake grease tightening it up
I did eventually get them on though.
I don't use shims at all, so my caliper did fit over the pads nicely. But boy is that close! I did have a little trouble fitting the PBR Metal Master pads into the inner guides, not sure what that was about... maybe I have too much caked anti-squeal brake grease tightening it up
I did eventually get them on though.
05-12-2004, 02:14 PM
#46
I was afraid that would happen.
You still running Pilot Sport A/S tires?
What were the distances if you just stomped the brakes and ABS kicked in like what would happen in an emergency situations?
You still running Pilot Sport A/S tires?
What were the distances if you just stomped the brakes and ABS kicked in like what would happen in an emergency situations?
Originally Posted by Colonel
BUT, tires are the limit of the connection to the road...I had to really learn how to modulate the pedal to get the stops down that far. Just cant romp them like I used to w/o the anti-locks getting all happy. I was drifting into higher stopping number becuase the ABS was kickin.
05-12-2004, 02:35 PM
#47
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I was afraid that would happen.
You still running Pilot Sport A/S tires?
What were the distances if you just stomped the brakes and ABS kicked in like what would happen in an emergency situations?
You still running Pilot Sport A/S tires?
What were the distances if you just stomped the brakes and ABS kicked in like what would happen in an emergency situations?
05-12-2004, 08:33 PM
#48
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I was afraid that would happen.
You still running Pilot Sport A/S tires?
What were the distances if you just stomped the brakes and ABS kicked in like what would happen in an emergency situations?
You still running Pilot Sport A/S tires?
What were the distances if you just stomped the brakes and ABS kicked in like what would happen in an emergency situations?
Now I could get CLOSE to that with old brakes system, but not really sure what it will do in inclement weather. I will be taking it to a spot I know when its raining real hard (should the weather co-operate) and when winter comes around I will really be testing it hard.
Yes I am driving the A/S's with about 380 more on the tires than original testin had on em. The car just sits now that weather is good and gas is at 2.19 a gallon. Bike is gettin TONS of use now...
05-12-2004, 08:36 PM
#49
Old Fuddy Duddy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by spirilis
Speaking of nice tires, I'm rollin' on Pilot Sport A/S tires myself. I have no idea what kind of braking distances I have (although the car slowed down in a real HURRY on the way home from work when the vehicle in front of me slammed its brakes while approaching a farm tractor on the road), but I've NEVER heard the ABS system operate except while braking on snow/ice. Not even in the rain.
But I believe thats ok. We ARE increasing the braking system and creating more "torque" on the front. I would be less than pleased if I didnt see something like this happen.
05-13-2004, 02:43 PM
#53
I like it....
I feel a slight increase in braking power and they definitely LOOK better than the OEM itty-bitty rotors.
Also, no signs of rotor warping after a couple thousand miles, which is the most important point.
I feel a slight increase in braking power and they definitely LOOK better than the OEM itty-bitty rotors.
Also, no signs of rotor warping after a couple thousand miles, which is the most important point.
05-14-2004, 02:54 AM
#56
Going from Raybestos QuietStop on Raybestos rotors which have been turned twice, to OEM 2k4 rotors + Axxis/PBR Metal Master pads, the change in braking power was more dramatic than not. Probably a testament to both the rotors and the pads, but most likely the pads are to thank for this.
The brakes feel just like my old 1990 Mazda 626 with new cheap rotors and cheapo semi-metallic pads (that car was also somewhat gutted, at least in the trunk). Pressing the pedal makes the car brake, pressing the pedal harder DEFINITELY makes the car brake harder
The brakes feel just like my old 1990 Mazda 626 with new cheap rotors and cheapo semi-metallic pads (that car was also somewhat gutted, at least in the trunk). Pressing the pedal makes the car brake, pressing the pedal harder DEFINITELY makes the car brake harder
05-14-2004, 05:28 AM
#57
Originally Posted by mjg
cool this looks promising.
How come he doesn't offer the SS break lines with the kit... Have you thought of adding those too?
I thought i read somewhere here those alone offer better breaking performance/feel ?
How come he doesn't offer the SS break lines with the kit... Have you thought of adding those too?
I thought i read somewhere here those alone offer better breaking performance/feel ?
the reason I don't sell them is because you can get them cheaper from other people. I might sell one or two sets, but it's not worth the hassle for me to keep them in stock. the ones for the 300ZX kit are custom made to adapt the Z caliper fitting to the Maxima hard lines, so I have to keep those around. You can pick up the lines for the OE application for $85 from iRotors right now through some special pricing I set up through them. not sure how long the group deal will last though.
07-28-2005, 12:32 PM
#58
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what pads are you using right now?
oh btw, colonel...in your stock brakes test...was that with everything stock? rotors, pads, lines, fluid?
I would like to see a comparison between a fully upgraded stock braking system (ie. aftermarket pads, SS lines, good fluid, and good rotors) against the blehmco kit with Z32 calipers...and A34 rotors...
also, were your ABS stops shorter than your ABS stops with stock brakes? same psi in all tires in both tests?
oh btw, colonel...in your stock brakes test...was that with everything stock? rotors, pads, lines, fluid?
I would like to see a comparison between a fully upgraded stock braking system (ie. aftermarket pads, SS lines, good fluid, and good rotors) against the blehmco kit with Z32 calipers...and A34 rotors...
also, were your ABS stops shorter than your ABS stops with stock brakes? same psi in all tires in both tests?
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