I just bought a set of cattman headers and was wondering what I am looking at for an install. I've done most of my own auto work including axles, rotors, alternators, wheels bearings...ect. I was wondering what kind of trouble I am getting myself into with a header install w/o air tools and most likely w/o a real lift. Is it worth having a muffler shop do it...if so how much, generally?
Thanks in advance-

 

The cross member is the b!tch, a lift is almost mandatory ... I did it w/o air tools, it just takes much longer.

 

we talkin 6 hours...8?

 

Hope you are a patient person. I have done all my installs including: supercharger, injectors, emanage, coilovers, and big brake kit. The headers made all of these other installs seem like a cake walk. Its just brutal getting the rear manifold off.

 

From the bottom the rear isn't tht hard,


Total I'd say about 8-10 hrs. Some people can do it in less some more. That's average

 

I think Mike(blackbirdvq) said something about make the engine swing like have it lean back on the engine mounts, or you can make lean back sort of like rotate. im not sure try talking with him

 

I had mine done in 4 hours by a mechanic I knew at a service station. I think it only cost $240. Of course he had a lift and all the necessary tools.

 

240's still a lot. so it was just a tech at a dealer? and i forgot if cattman needed any movement of o2 sensors..

 

I think that's great time and a great deal....

 

Its the same for most headers.... either ya get an O2 simulator, or ya relocate the O2 sensors to behind the main cat... check out Hnda Etr's webpage, there's pictures of his old 5th Gen with that done...

 

if i can get the same deal out of my local guy im gonna go that way

 

Actually that's a great price. Although I do all my own installs, for this particular one, I'm seriously considering having it done...

 

Alright here is the deal, remove the radiator fans off the radiator- should be just secured with 2 10mm bolts on top and 2 on the bottom of the car. Remove the lower splash shields. Remove the motor mount bolts- that go through the motor mounts and engine mount bracket. Then remove the cross member. After that remove your 02 sensors using a 22mm wrench or a special O2 sensor socket, then remove the whole ypipe off the car. Proceed to remove the front exhaust manifold, you will need to slightly move the AC line in order to get at the left exhaust manifold stud/bolt thats all the way to the left top corner of the manifold. If you have the stock precat on the front manifold (fed spec 3.0Ls do not have it) then you might wanna remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the shield onto the precat, and then get a 12mm THINWALL 3/8" drive socket and 14" long 3/8" drive extension to break the bolts loose from the manifold- you are removing the front precat off the exhaust manifold. After that you will be able to remove the manifold with easse. I found that if you remove the motor mount bracket off the block you do NOT have to remove the precat, it all depends on how you wanna do the job. As far as the rear manifold- jack up the motor so that instead of it sitting in the engine bay like this IIIII it will be sitting in the engine bay like this ///// - this will basically pivot the engine so that the rear cylinder head exhaust manifold bolts are more accessible. Remove the REAR engine mount bracket off the block, the 2 top 14mm bolts are impossible to get at cause there is a metal support brace inside the motor mount bracket that is in the way of the bolts. What I did was use a long pry bar and bend that support brace so that I can get my socket and 14mm rachet on those bolts, then remove the lower bolts off the bracket and you are free to do the manifold bolts. There are only 4 bolts holding the engine mount bracket to the block. After that you can go ahead and use a swivel 14mm socket to remove exhaust manifold bolts and remove the rear precat. I reused my factory exhaust manifold gaskets on the headers- they are metal and will not leak. Install the new headers on the heads HAND tight, so that you can move them around on the exhaust manifold studs, then you need to bolt the Ypipe to the manifolds. After that tighten the exhaust manifold studs tight as ***** and tighten the Ypipe. If you tighten the manifolds tight as he11 1st and then try to install the Ypipe you will not be able to install the Ypipe cause the holes for the exhaust manifold studs are big enough so that when U install the headers your flanges for the Ypipe will be way off. After you install the headers basically install your 02 sensors, install 02 simulator for the rear O2 sensors ( don't bother extending the wires most people get check engine lights from added resistance of the lenghtened 02 sensor wires that throw off the 02 readings).

NOTE- any factory bolt you will try to remove- SPRAY down with *PB BLASTER* it works alot better than WD40 as a penetrating fluid.

It took me 2 hours to do my headers, with a oil change and evacutating the AC system plus removing the high side line off the compressor- as the primary 02 sensor hits the AC compressor and line on the 3.0L with HS headers.

I could do a 3.0L header install in bout a hour now... 8 hours is highway robbery. Take it from someone who rebuilds his own trannies and engines. I don't let ANYONE touch my ride.

 

[QUOTE=BlackBIRDVQ]

NOTE- any factory bolt you will try to remove- SPRAY down with *PB BLASTER* it works alot better than WD40 as a penetrating fluid.[QUOTE=BlackBIRDVQ]

I second this , thanks a million mike. I'll hit you up tommorow and give you the low down on what happened to my car

 

cool, cause I was going to PM ya few min ago- as I noticed you on the .org active.

 

yeah i haven't been on that much. But she is back in action and feels fast as hell. Driving it feels like a night and day difference compared to before when i had my old setup

 

Glad that the Max is back in action, gotta represent the 5th gens ! It would be a sad day if you got rid of the Max.. Hope to join the boosted/500WHP Maxima club soon myself

 

ha its funny you say that because i was actually toying with the idea of stripping it down and selling the parts to fund a 240sx or 350z project.

 

thanks blackbird

 

I would keep it and get a 2nd project car But having had so many project cars myself its like all the $$ I make goes towards the cars. My weak spot is cars, my GF hates me for that, I see a G20 thats cheap and needs a good home I'm over that thing like a fly over a piece of **** !

 

I actually didnt have to remove anything major except the heatshield that was on the firewall. Didn't use any impacts. It took me and two other org members 11 hours, but we also just took it easy and not stress to much about it. If you got the headers with the egr valve on it then you will need to cut it off and weld it closed (what i did) or find a plug which no one in a 100 mile radius had where i lived. Also I bought stock exhaust manifold gaskets instead of using the ones that came with the headers. I dont know if was true or not but heard if u ever put nitrous on it those gaskets go up in flames. Can't go wrong with OEM. Also had to remove the crossmember and support the engine and tranny by jack and wood. Be sure to have plenty of wire for the O2 sensors and be sure to have the bungs welded into your b-pipe after the cat before you start. I had to extend all my O2 sensors which wasnt fun. Had to remove intake manifold, which isnt hard. Be sure to plug up the hoses that have coolant in it too. Have to remove a motor mount cant remembe which one, and shave away at one bolt, but that was in the instructions. Sorry this is a ramble, but i'm exhausted and just typing what i could remember even though it was in order. Last thing be sure to try to use the same guage wire and good solder. Changing the guage of wire can change readings coming from the O2 sensor. I mean dont put a 24awg wire with a 12 guage.