Another HID retro
06-11-2005, 04:55 AM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 129
Another HID retro
I finally managed to do the Bosch projector installation. Thanks to Dr. Roy writeup and HIDplanet the job was fairly easy.
The marks are for lining up the projector shield:
New holes must be drilled for the new projector:
Location for the ballast (blue ballasts are for the fog lights):
Location of the relay and main fuse:
I could not use the H4 plug to power the ballasts because the low beam (HID) would stay on with the DRL. If you use the low beam ground from the H4 plug the, the low beam would come off with the high beam. For this reason I used power from the parking light. This way the low beam does not come on with the DRL and stay on with the high beam.
The marks are for lining up the projector shield:
New holes must be drilled for the new projector:
Location for the ballast (blue ballasts are for the fog lights):
Location of the relay and main fuse:
I could not use the H4 plug to power the ballasts because the low beam (HID) would stay on with the DRL. If you use the low beam ground from the H4 plug the, the low beam would come off with the high beam. For this reason I used power from the parking light. This way the low beam does not come on with the DRL and stay on with the high beam.
06-11-2005, 08:45 PM
#2
take a look @ page 11 of my cardomaine site, on the bottom there is a schematic of a circuit i designed, the neg switched one on the left will allow you to trigger the relay off the low beam lead, even though you have DTRL, this way you can enjoy the halo's w/o the headlights on.
its good to see the w/u get use..from a 61yo man in czech repulic no less.
Any Pics - finished work, output?
its good to see the w/u get use..from a 61yo man in czech repulic no less.
Any Pics - finished work, output?
06-12-2005, 05:57 AM
#5
06-12-2005, 12:51 PM
#7
Looks good so far... cant wait to see the output
i have been having problems with my LEDs... like sometimes one led would go out and it would screw everything else up but oh well. I think i need a regulator of some sort to help prevent spikes in electricity. How is ur halos wired anways? is it Dr. Roys set up? Also did you try to keep ur high beams on?
i have been having problems with my LEDs... like sometimes one led would go out and it would screw everything else up but oh well. I think i need a regulator of some sort to help prevent spikes in electricity. How is ur halos wired anways? is it Dr. Roys set up? Also did you try to keep ur high beams on?
06-12-2005, 01:43 PM
#8
the way the LEDs get wired in my writeup basicaly has them running @ a notch below thier limit, they are very bright but any bad leds in the circuite that arent up to spec. make themselves known pretty quick also any Voltage spikes above 14v is absorbed by the first LED in the series, after it absorbes a few spikes it is shot, after that happens it still passes current that basicaly rips through the remaining 3 in no time. then they flicker for a bit run dim for a while and die.
I had to replace the LEDs in my passenger side twice b/c of this, I tried using a 12v voltage regulator i had but the output @ 12V just wasnt doing it for me. so i removed that, and ran them the way i have them in the w/u, they have been in for a couple of months now and no sign of trouble.
you can put a 40 ohm resistor in series w/ the LEDs they will run slightly dimmer than they would w/o it but it will buffer any spikes in voltage. I use a resistor in series w/ any retrofit i do that isnt local, to protect aginst a bad LED or voltage spike f*cking up the LEDs
I had to replace the LEDs in my passenger side twice b/c of this, I tried using a 12v voltage regulator i had but the output @ 12V just wasnt doing it for me. so i removed that, and ran them the way i have them in the w/u, they have been in for a couple of months now and no sign of trouble.
you can put a 40 ohm resistor in series w/ the LEDs they will run slightly dimmer than they would w/o it but it will buffer any spikes in voltage. I use a resistor in series w/ any retrofit i do that isnt local, to protect aginst a bad LED or voltage spike f*cking up the LEDs
06-12-2005, 07:54 PM
#9
what do you mean "w/u"? I also have that stupid symptom of flickering then dying... but i am now wondering if wiring through the parking lights (i dont know if you did that and had the same results would regulate the voltage. Currently mine is set up with a switch and relay and mine go out every two weeks.
06-12-2005, 10:01 PM
#10
w/u = write up
i hook mine directly up to the parking lights, i replaced mine twice since last summer,......but everey two weeks is crazy
the leds i currently use, wired in the series as per my my w/u, have a max foward voltage of 3.6V (3.3v normal):
3.6V max X 4 LEDs = 14.4V max through the circute, since our cars electrical sytem is regulated at 14V that gives me a .4V buffer to protect against spikes, i believe it was just a bad LED that caused them to blowout. But i have a data sheets from another batch w/ a 3.5V (3.3 normal)max foward voltage, when i used those i hooked them up in a parallel circuite - the 2 LEDs in each halo where in a parallel circuite and shared a 440 ohm resistor.
If you are using LEDs w/ a 3.5V max foward V, and have them wired in series that pretty much means they are being used @ their uppermost limit:
3.5 max foward V X 4 LEDs = 14.0 V max voltage through circuit there is no buffer and a couple of tiny spikes will rip through and destroy the LEDs....about every 2 weeks, A 40 ohm resistor in series w/ the LEDs will provide 13.2V to the LEDS and give you .8v to buffer any spikes, If you want them to be a bit brighter, use a 20ohm resistor, you will still have .4v margin of saftey
i hook mine directly up to the parking lights, i replaced mine twice since last summer,......but everey two weeks is crazy
the leds i currently use, wired in the series as per my my w/u, have a max foward voltage of 3.6V (3.3v normal):
3.6V max X 4 LEDs = 14.4V max through the circute, since our cars electrical sytem is regulated at 14V that gives me a .4V buffer to protect against spikes, i believe it was just a bad LED that caused them to blowout. But i have a data sheets from another batch w/ a 3.5V (3.3 normal)max foward voltage, when i used those i hooked them up in a parallel circuite - the 2 LEDs in each halo where in a parallel circuite and shared a 440 ohm resistor.
If you are using LEDs w/ a 3.5V max foward V, and have them wired in series that pretty much means they are being used @ their uppermost limit:
3.5 max foward V X 4 LEDs = 14.0 V max voltage through circuit there is no buffer and a couple of tiny spikes will rip through and destroy the LEDs....about every 2 weeks, A 40 ohm resistor in series w/ the LEDs will provide 13.2V to the LEDS and give you .8v to buffer any spikes, If you want them to be a bit brighter, use a 20ohm resistor, you will still have .4v margin of saftey
06-13-2005, 02:06 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 129
I ordered the LED’s from e-bay as Dr. Roy suggested. They are $7.99 for 50 peaces, so I will have plenty of spares. As for my wiring diagram, I don’t run the high beam all the time. I had to wire it this way because if you use + and - from the H4 plug, the low beam will go off with the high beam. If you use only + from the H4, the low beam won’t come off with the high beam but will stay on with the DTRLs. My halos are powered from the insight fuse box. This way the halos come on with the ignition. DTRLs are on with the halos while the car is running and the headlights work correctly with the HL switch.
06-16-2005, 09:35 PM
#18
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
Originally Posted by philzaga
nice job, wheres the best place to find projectors at a good price? ebay? thanks
06-16-2005, 09:48 PM
#20
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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from what i understand (i'm definitely no expert) any projector you buy (basically) you will be able to do the retrofit with...i've heard a lot of good things about the valeo's shown here:http://www.hidplanet.com/package.html
06-17-2005, 12:05 AM
#21
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1
I'm updating/upgrading my 2001 Nissan Maxima to 2002 Maxima Xenon HID's. Her car has dual beam 9003 bulbs, but the 02 assemblies has D2R HID bulbs w/Philips ballasts and 9005 High beam composites. Can you tell me how to convert the wiring of the 01 to the 02 assembly?
06-17-2005, 08:45 AM
#22
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 129
The 01 Max has plugs for H4 bulbs with dual element. The connector on the right is + for low and high beam. Connector on the left is – for high beam and connector on top is – for low beam. The problem with this is that when you switch to high beam the low beam goes off. This is why I used H4 plug only for high beam and + for the ballast from parking light. This way the HID will come on when the lights are switched on (not with the DTRL) and will stay on with the high beam.
06-17-2005, 03:32 PM
#23
actually, hidplanet's forsale forum is an even better place if you know what you want. I got my whole package for $240 with projectors, bulbs, and ballast. But if you don't want to mess with picking stuff out then go for hidplanet's bulk packages. If you can afford it, get s2k projectors or TL projectors (all stanely projectors). The mdx projectors are fine if you know how to mod them correctly via DREMEL or any other rotary tool.
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