HomeDepot: PCV Blowby Oil Catch Reservoir
12-22-2005, 05:50 PM
#81
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
Check out my updated post on the ebay catch can:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=174
If you buy one, pay the money and get a good one. Lesson learned.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=174
If you buy one, pay the money and get a good one. Lesson learned.
ATTENTION
I'm withdrawing my support for this ebay catch can. I installed mine this past summer, took it off today to see how much oil was collected and found it bone dry. There was a thin layer of oil on the inside walls, but none collected. The tubes got darker and darker so I assume it was still getting through. If you do this mod, stick to the oil/water separator or some catch can with a baffle. This one just has two holes in the top. The input is sucked right back out of the output.
I'm withdrawing my support for this ebay catch can. I installed mine this past summer, took it off today to see how much oil was collected and found it bone dry. There was a thin layer of oil on the inside walls, but none collected. The tubes got darker and darker so I assume it was still getting through. If you do this mod, stick to the oil/water separator or some catch can with a baffle. This one just has two holes in the top. The input is sucked right back out of the output.
12-22-2005, 09:10 PM
#82
thanks 2002 maxima se for the update, my friend just want to buy of this and me are using the home depot one. for those people especially Irish use synthethic oil, don't worry, read the instruction paper come with package, you can buy some metal can, replacement filter, holding bracket etc etc by calling 800-543-6400,
but one thing that bordering me is the filter inside of it, what about it get clog, had read another thread about this subject that some people remove the filter and said it would catch more oil and it won't suck it back to intake manifold, it that confirm work????? I just don't want the oil get back in there, period.
but one thing that bordering me is the filter inside of it, what about it get clog, had read another thread about this subject that some people remove the filter and said it would catch more oil and it won't suck it back to intake manifold, it that confirm work????? I just don't want the oil get back in there, period.
12-23-2005, 06:37 AM
#83
Yes, at first I had the filter in and it was collecting oil but not at any breath taking rate. Then I removed it, noted it was soaked, and put the canister back without the filter and for same period of time now I collect 2-3 times more oil than previously with the filter in... And I just dump it thought it is $10/qt Mobil1...
12-23-2005, 06:38 AM
#84
Originally Posted by spirilis
Probably because it's soaked in gasoline and is probably nasty. I'd rather dump it and put fresh oil back in to compensate.
... it has a strong smell of gasoline/oil. Makes you fingers stink bad too....
12-25-2005, 10:34 AM
#85
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
Check out my updated post on the ebay catch can:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=174
If you buy one, pay the money and get a good one. Lesson learned.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=174
If you buy one, pay the money and get a good one. Lesson learned.
That's what I was saying about the weapon R universal catch tank. Buy from someone who has already put development into their product. Weapon R's number is 1-650-877-8280 it already comes with fittings and such. it is made of 6061 billet aluminum. they also have aluminum catch tanks with fittings already welded in. It might be possible they would custom-make you one. If you show off your mods at shows and meets it just makes sense to use parts that were made for the job. why make it 2nd rate? yeah it'll cost a little more, but it's worth it!!!! that's for sure.
http://www.weapon-r.com
You might be able to custom fit one of these they say they are car specific. Just might work though. Call'em if you got questions.
http://www.weapon-r.com/store/agora....&ppinc=search2
12-25-2005, 11:06 AM
#87
Originally Posted by igzy
Sounds like you are their promoter 
Besides, I (and I'm sure most guys here) take pride in making my own mods and improvements 
Besides, I (and I'm sure most guys here) take pride in making my own mods and improvements
12-25-2005, 04:04 PM
#88
Originally Posted by igzy
Sounds like you are their promoter Besides, I (and I'm sure most guys here) take pride in making my own mods and improvements
Besides, I (and I'm sure most guys here) take pride in making my own mods and improvements but isn't this forum about giving information that might be helpful in making your car better? That's all. If you don't like the info i give; you don't have to use it. I can live with that.
12-25-2005, 08:07 PM
#89
Doc2278, no prob, we all know that you can buy one of these canisters and all the necessary hardware as a kit that many companies offer just like HID lights, and many other parts we all try to home-make; however, as the thread title says, this is how you make your own using HomeDepot parts or any other means to make the same thing but yourself which gives me and many others a feeling of creativity and ingenuity
12-25-2005, 08:31 PM
#90
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Originally Posted by doc2278
That's what I was saying about the weapon R universal catch tank. Buy from someone who has already put development into their product.
That said, the "purpose-made" catch cans obviously offer an advantage when it comes to capacity and materials - but many of us balk at paying $50-100 for something that truthfully costs about $2 for these companies to make. Hence the "Home Depot" catch can idea, which works just as well, but simply requires that it be emptied a bit more often.
The BEST solution would be to have a larger reservoir that could screw onto the HD oil seperator top....basically a larger can with a threaded top. But that's a project for another day
12-26-2005, 06:51 AM
#92
Originally Posted by irish44j
I hardly think Weapon R has put any "development" into the product. Oil catch cans (with and without baffles) have been around LONG before "Weapon R" ever existed...it's a VERY simple concept. Their cans are just like 100 other ones on the market, in truth. Maybe they look nicer, or have a shiny finish, but they all work on the same principles of seperating the liquid from the air....
That said, the "purpose-made" catch cans obviously offer an advantage when it comes to capacity and materials - but many of us balk at paying $50-100 for something that truthfully costs about $2 for these companies to make. Hence the "Home Depot" catch can idea, which works just as well, but simply requires that it be emptied a bit more often.
The BEST solution would be to have a larger reservoir that could screw onto the HD oil seperator top....basically a larger can with a threaded top. But that's a project for another day
That said, the "purpose-made" catch cans obviously offer an advantage when it comes to capacity and materials - but many of us balk at paying $50-100 for something that truthfully costs about $2 for these companies to make. Hence the "Home Depot" catch can idea, which works just as well, but simply requires that it be emptied a bit more often.
The BEST solution would be to have a larger reservoir that could screw onto the HD oil seperator top....basically a larger can with a threaded top. But that's a project for another day
Thank you Irish I definitely can appreciate your knowledge base. It is obvious you know more about this than I do.
I know husky makes a larger canister with a half turn bleeder valve on the bottom for 19.95 at the depot. It accepts a 3/8'' fitting. I only know this because I use these at the office for my air lines.the bottom part of the canister screws on. They are black canisters if that helps you guys find them.
12-26-2005, 06:56 AM
#93
Originally Posted by igzy
Doc2278, no prob, we all know that you can buy one of these canisters and all the necessary hardware as a kit that many companies offer just like HID lights, and many other parts we all try to home-make; however, as the thread title says, this is how you make your own using HomeDepot parts or any other means to make the same thing but yourself which gives me and many others a feeling of creativity and ingenuity
LOL
12-26-2005, 03:37 PM
#94
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Originally Posted by doc2278
Thank you Irish I definitely can appreciate your knowledge base. It is obvious you know more about this than I do.
I know husky makes a larger canister with a half turn bleeder valve on the bottom for 19.95 at the depot. It accepts a 3/8'' fitting. I only know this because I use these at the office for my air lines.the bottom part of the canister screws on. They are black canisters if that helps you guys find them.
I know husky makes a larger canister with a half turn bleeder valve on the bottom for 19.95 at the depot. It accepts a 3/8'' fitting. I only know this because I use these at the office for my air lines.the bottom part of the canister screws on. They are black canisters if that helps you guys find them.
that, and I'm working on other projects and too lazy to mess with this one anymore
12-26-2005, 04:58 PM
#95
Originally Posted by irish44j
I've been meaning to get the bigger canister, but HD and Lowes always seem to be out of stock of the 3/8" fittings and the 1/4" reducer's I'd need!
that, and I'm working on other projects and too lazy to mess with this one anymore
that, and I'm working on other projects and too lazy to mess with this one anymore
well just in case you mightchange your mind on the lazy part, LOL you might find the reducers thru a company called Mcmaster Carr they are located in NJ . I can get you the info tomorrow.Or for whoever else is interested.
12-27-2005, 02:35 PM
#97
Research done....... http://www.mcmaster.com
Part # 9171K216
* this is what they told me would work*
retails for $3.49
Description: Hex center nipples 3/8 to 1/4
Max pressure: 4000 psi
phone # 732-329-3200
Check this out see if it will work for you guys
Good luck
Part # 9171K216
* this is what they told me would work*
retails for $3.49
Description: Hex center nipples 3/8 to 1/4
Max pressure: 4000 psi
phone # 732-329-3200
Check this out see if it will work for you guys
Good luck
Originally Posted by irish44j
I'll have to look into that, thanks! I'm sure Sears has stuff like that too, if I bothered to look.
12-27-2005, 07:13 PM
#98
2000 Maxima SE Oil Catch Reservior
Alright, I followerd the pack and did the oil catch reservior. Just wanted to post a few pics so orgers can see the install and reservior location.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/584060/6
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/584060/6
01-01-2006, 10:38 AM
#100
Keep looking and if you have a 2000 like me, I think that you should be looking for 3/8" not 7/16 as the thread says. I tried both and the 3/8 fit much better. There is no need to use hose clamps with 3/8" hose.
Post a pic when you finish.
Post a pic when you finish.
01-01-2006, 02:14 PM
#101
Originally Posted by Edward Lee
Keep looking and if you have a 2000 like me, I think that you should be looking for 3/8" not 7/16 as the thread says. I tried both and the 3/8 fit much better. There is no need to use hose clamps with 3/8" hose.
Post a pic when you finish.
Post a pic when you finish.
01-10-2006, 10:49 AM
#102
I used 3/8" hose on my 2K too...
Just a word of caution: make sure your set up is tight and there are no air leaks in it. Verify everything including the fitings (use some teflon tape on threads), canister drain, the base of canister, clamps and connections...
I had a small leak between the canister cup and the metal base at the round rubber gasket that as a result was throwing an oxygen sensor code P0140...
Just a word of caution: make sure your set up is tight and there are no air leaks in it. Verify everything including the fitings (use some teflon tape on threads), canister drain, the base of canister, clamps and connections...
I had a small leak between the canister cup and the metal base at the round rubber gasket that as a result was throwing an oxygen sensor code P0140...
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01-15-2006, 07:39 AM
#108
On the pedobear bandwagon
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 480
I would kinda like to see step by step also... I'm kinda special when it comes to this stuff.... like where exactly are the two places that we'd be connecting the hoses to in the engine... with some pics. I have a 2000... I am only to assume that when you are saying 3/8, you mean inside diameter of the hose. And will anything be hurt by using nylon fittings instead of brass?
01-15-2006, 09:23 AM
#109
INSTRUCTIONS FOR OIL CATCH CAN:
Alright, first go get all the parts either at Home Depot or Sears. By the way, Sears sells a larger reservoir so it's probably your better bet. Don't use plastic for the connections. They sell brass connectors where they sell the reservior so you shouldn't have any problems in getting some 1/4 to 3/8 fittings. Don't get the quick connects like everyone else gets. They're not the right connections. Get the ones for hoses. They look like a shell or an animals horn (cone shaped).
I/D of the hose is 3/8". Get enough in case you make a mistake and make sure that it is good for fuel. No need for fuel injection line, just get the regular fuel line, it's much cheaper.
The rest is pretty straight forward. Look and see where my reservior connects at the top of the manifold. All you do is disconnect that part of the hose and follow it to its other end. Don't disconnect the the other end, instead use the attached hose to help you pull off the PCV valve. Just give it a nice tug and it should pop off. A slight twisting action may help.
Installation is the reverse of removal. I got that line from Haynes Manuals.
Good Luck! Post if you need anymore help.
Alright, first go get all the parts either at Home Depot or Sears. By the way, Sears sells a larger reservoir so it's probably your better bet. Don't use plastic for the connections. They sell brass connectors where they sell the reservior so you shouldn't have any problems in getting some 1/4 to 3/8 fittings. Don't get the quick connects like everyone else gets. They're not the right connections. Get the ones for hoses. They look like a shell or an animals horn (cone shaped).
I/D of the hose is 3/8". Get enough in case you make a mistake and make sure that it is good for fuel. No need for fuel injection line, just get the regular fuel line, it's much cheaper.
The rest is pretty straight forward. Look and see where my reservior connects at the top of the manifold. All you do is disconnect that part of the hose and follow it to its other end. Don't disconnect the the other end, instead use the attached hose to help you pull off the PCV valve. Just give it a nice tug and it should pop off. A slight twisting action may help.
Installation is the reverse of removal. I got that line from Haynes Manuals.
Good Luck! Post if you need anymore help.
01-15-2006, 10:03 AM
#110
On the pedobear bandwagon
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 480
Having problems finding that reservoir on the sears website. Do you have a part number or link so I can see it... I'm 30 miles from the nearest Sears or Home Depot... so I like to go in knowing exactly what I need. Thank you.
02-03-2006, 07:28 PM
#114
I don't think that the inlet and outlet size will matter at all. As long as you get those hose fittings that are cone shaped you should be alright. Take pics when you are finished. If you want I can get one for you at sears.
02-09-2006, 10:20 AM
#118
Originally Posted by irish44j
I've been meaning to get the bigger canister, but HD and Lowes always seem to be out of stock of the 3/8" fittings and the 1/4" reducer's I'd need!
02-09-2006, 10:25 AM
#119
Sinister - Great write up!! Did mod and is it bad that it is like a quarter full every few days? I drive like 60miles a day if that helps answer the question?
02-09-2006, 08:08 PM
#120
Will This work ?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/JDM-OIL-CATCH-RES...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.ca/JDM-OIL-CATCH-RES...QQcmdZViewItem