I have read some FAQ's and general messages. My son installed an amp he bought from a pawn shop, I helped him with the first test, and the thing started smoking. So I shut it down ASAP. Hooked up the original amp, and went to bed.

The next morning when I started the car it idled rough, then when I got out about a block away to an open road I hit the gas and it was noticeably down on power and it shifted hard. Is it possible smoking the amp messed something up? we of course had the battery disconected, so I figured the computer may just need to re-learn, or bad gas. But I have gone through a tank of gas and over 400 miles just this weekend, and it is still down on power and it idles rough every time it's first started, hot or cold.

So it sounds like the MAF symptoms. It looks as though it is speed density also as I can see what looks like a MAP sensor, is this true? If so I wanted to disconnect the MAF to see if it either runs better, or the same to prove it is the MAF.

Also I do get an intermittent SES light.

Main questions:
Could the AMP screwed something up?
Is a 2000 Maxima both MAF and MAP controlled?
What is a good scanner at a good price? I was thinking about the AutoXray pro pack so I can do multiple cars at $350.

Thank You

 

I'd try to see what the SES light is before I did anything. It might end up saving you some guess work.

How many miles are on it? I've got 87K on my 2K GXE and I just replaced the plugs this weekend. There was a noticable improvement in the performance. I'm still considering change the MAF, but I was planning on changing the plugs anyway so I figured I do that first and see how it responds.

MAP = ?

 

I would change it, my max had the same problems and when i changed the MAF and wooooo hooooooo fixed it good as new. it only costs like $120 from the dealership and if ur car has over 50,000 miles it probably needs one anyways. If thats a little too much for u to just throw at her u can also try seafoam it cleans out carbon deposits in ur intake and combustion chamber it only costs like $6 , but u better do it at night or away from prying eyes because this stuff will smoke out a whole neighborhood. good luck

 

Wait. Before you buy anything or start changing parts.

Go to Auto Zone and see if they will pull the code for you (most do it for free). Don't just start replacing parts before you know what the actual issue(s) is/are.

 

The car has 84,000 miles on it.
MAP=manifold absolute pressure, just another way for the computer to monitor air flow, it used to be either MAF or MAP for fuel injected cars, but now it seems to be the norm that they use both MAF and MAP. I tried disconnecting the MAF and could barley get out of the driveway.

I'll clear the computer and run it until I get another SES light, If I have it checked now after running it without the MAF connected it will definately give me a MAF code. I keep forgetting that parts stores check codes for you, I am used to borrowing a scanner. Would like to still get one.

Will pulling the fuse at the POS. terminal on tha battery clear my codes, or do I have to pull a terminal off?

Thanks Again