IIRC they only come with automatics, though for some reason they're there on the 6speeds as well. I know a local guy who has a 6sp and the switch isn't hooked up on his either.

 

no, no problems. Just slow down.

 

what is the best intake to go with for the 5.5gen maxima's with the vq35

 

hey fifth-ers, just thought id tip toe in here and ask a question. my parents have a 2k Max (with regular headlights) but they find driving at night hard because of the dim bulbs. now, weve already tried few different bulbs, but nothing really works that well. my dad wanted me to ask if we could swap over to the 5.5 HID headlights. is it basically a direct swap? or are there different parts involved? also, any idea where i may find them besides the fools at nissan?

thanks!


bump plz

 

Hi,
Got an '03 GLE, oil changed every 3500 or so. Everything was hunky-dory until I changed it myself for the first time (not new to oil changes, just my first time with this car). I used Mobil Synth Blend 5W-30 (could be wrong on the weight, to be honest, but I'm at work) and a Purolater filter. Then over the last 1000 miles, it started getting stinkier and stinkier. The oil level seems fine, but every time I'm at a stop, just parked, or backing up, the cabin gets that burned oil stench. I tried sniffing the engine stopped and running (both in park and Drive (with the e-brake)).

Any ideas what this might be?

 

to do it you need to buy a 02-03 wiring harness from the dealer and splice it into their stock wiring harness.

I will say, having done this swap, though that the 02-03 HIDs are not a drastic improvement over the 00-01 halogens in terms of visibility. They are a reflector-type HID with poor cutoff and marginal light range...you won't get the cutoff and visibility you'd get with a projector-style HID as seen in BMWs or Acuras...

If this is your parents' car and they don't care about looks, I suggest you don't bother. Just buy some Sylvania Silverstar bulbs for the stock lights and and leave it at that....

 

1. you dripped oil on the exhaust pipe when doing the change and it's burning off.

2. the filter does not have a good seal and oil is dripping onto the exhaust pipe and burning off.

either way, get under the car, make sure the filter is tight and has a good seal, and wipe off any residual oil that might be on the engine block or exhaust.....

 

Help!

I own a 2k Max 5spd, I am experiencing Clutch or Tranny Difficulties. Let me explain.

I am a very aggressive driver. The other day maybe over the course of the last couple months, I needed to put more power in my car to take off from 1st gear. Not noticable to me, I mean like 1.5k - 2k rpms to get going. and then everything would be fine from there.

A few weeks ago, the shifting started to become weird. I could still shift smoothly with the stick in between gears, but then the tach would act weird.

For example, Usually 60 Mph, 3rd gear, you would be at 4k rpms.
40mph 2nd gear, 4k rpms.

When You shift from 2nd to third etc etc, The Tach is supposed to immediately fall. but now The Tach would "float" for a second or two before falling to the proper speed.

I give it gas, the tach rises, but the power response is lowered.
No burning no smells at all.

Last night I am on the highway, speeding up to merge, going from fourth to fifth, and all i get is a powerful nasty smell, and Very little power.

Next thing I know I am coasting along the highway and when I finally stop at the tolls, I limp on only getting minimal power from 1st gear. like max speed being 20mph, if im lucky.

Does this sound like the Tranny is fried too?


I got it towed to my Mechanic, He said that the clutch is totally fried, and doesnt know if the tranny is gone too.

I had swapped to Redline Mt 90 when I first got the car 45k miles ago, and havent changed it since. What do you guys think?

Thanks so much

-J

 

I have the 6 speed and the auto seat works, only with the key in the on position and the e brake on. Ie, you can't do it while driving, although you can move it with the manual switches while driving and save the new postion

 

I cannot save any position, the switch is not working it is not connected at all, I was wondering if it was possible to have the switch (maybe coming standard) but not the option. Mine is a 6 speed manual, TE , leather and everything except the navi. If not then i suppose the dealer will have to look into that I'll ask him anyway

 

That nasty smell is probably your clutch that you destroyed by driving so aggressively as you said. It takes alot to ruin a tranny in a standard transmission.

 

I feel alot better now. I am not really looking forward to ever replacing a transmission :P.

 

About my memory seat, after playing a little bit inside the hole on the door where the memory seat control is( I have small hands but could not put my whole hand in it) and pulling on some wires I succeded to pull out the plug of the memory unit (so i guess they indeed did some work inside the door) I reattached it and at least seems to be partially working, I succeded to put my seat position at #2 but #1 seems to not work maybe the switch is toast (the led is blinking if i push the set button) , bah not a big deal, I will be doing the most driving so if my wife takes the car she'll have to adjust the seat at her driving position. I will keep the memory for my position. I suppose this little unit should not cost a lot at a dealer dunno if I can find it online or at a salvage place, it is only a stupid 3 switch 3 led unit so we'll see if I need to replace it or live with just 1 seat memory. thanks for your answers

 

Can anyone tell me where the amp relay is located on a 2000 Max?
Thanks, Gary

 

That is strange because all SE's in Canada in 2003 had the titanium package which basically meant fully loaded except Navi (which was not available at all)

 

thanks knight I found my answer check three message up

 

Is there anyone who has purchased the projectors from custommaxima.com and if you have is there a difference in quality of the their projectors Vs. the ones on ebay because if thats the case ill spend the extra money and get them from custom maxima if they have better quality projectors on them if theyre selling them for $300 dollars i would think they have for that amount.

 

I installed Brembo rotors and Axis pads on my car today. When I finished I checked the brakes and noticed a clicking sound under the the shifter. It is only when I am in P and press in the break. This noise was not there before!
Anyone know what this is and how to fix?

There was also some metal plates on the old pads and I did not put them on the new pads because they did not fit well.
Did I need them?
Any advice would help.

Thanks in advance.

 

sup guys i was wondering on a 5th gen, getting s techs with stock struts will the struts last me until spring until i get illuminas? I want a drop right now, but do not want to get good struts that I will mess up in winter time in snow, thanks

 

Well I went to dealer today and he told me the 2000 does not have an amp relay. I unplugged the amp and still have 3/4 of an amp drain on my battery. I don't know what to do unless I get a new head unit.

 

Let me try it this way. I have a drain on my battery. I found ouy that if you remove the audio fuse, the amps drop down to .03 amps. with the fuse in it pulls .75 amps. I unplugged the amp today and it still pulls .75 amps. I'm thinking now that head unit is sucking the power. Any ides what else to check for?
Thanks, Buffy

 

Can't answer for the sound, BUT, you DEFINETLY need the plate on the back of the new pads. The new pads should have come with these. Without protection on the back of the pad, the piston in the caliper will eat through your pads in no time.

 

both the CE and ebay projectors are garbage. Don't spend a cent on any of them. Light output is terrible (far worse than stock halogens on 00-01 and not even close to stock HIDs on 02-03). there are a million discussions on this topic and most people who bought them have either done retrofits with different projectors or have gotten rid of them....

 

Crossover, Head Unit, and EQ come to mind as the items to check next.

 

What the.... look guy, keep up the useless post whoring to get to 15 and it's a sure guarantee to B-Town*.




*(Bannage)

 

+1 on what Prinz said. I would also double check the grounds. As for the head unit sucking power, the yellow "battery-constant/aux" wire (or whatever it's called) comes to mind. I had the same problem with an old JVC unit, the car would be off and it was still drawing power. Try disconnecting that yellow wire and see if the problem still exist.

 

thanks.....

 

I unplugged the head unit yesterday and the battery drain went away (.03 amps)
I 'assume' that the cross over and equalizer are built into head unit and it time to start looking for a used head unit!?
Thanks guys.
buffy

 

illlojik You look familiar did you go to Uniondale highschool

 

i had a 96 max with the black cefiro headlights with 6000k hid kit I want to put an hid kit on this max but i dont like the headlights it doesnt cover much of an area i want the projectors but dont want to take the time to do the laboring retrofit i see the brought back the dual headlights without the projector how do you think these would look with an hid kit.

 

Vaporhead or anyone that has advice,
I looked it up and now understand they were thin metal shims on my old oem pads. The new Axxis pads did not have them in the box, so I did not know if I should place the old ones on the new pads. One web site said you should not use, used shims. Do I need to purchase some? Have not seen any online for the Axxis deluxe pads.

 

yeah I did. graduated class of 98. And you may be....(pm me if u don't want to shout it to the world)

 

Looking through some info, Axxis has an integral shim. Saying that, you do not need to get anything. Axxis has this shim made into the pad. You are good to go.

 

they would (and do) look like cheap ricer junk with cheap projectors and crappy output...

 

WHY did this thread get stickied???? You know nobody actually USES the stickies. It works much better "floating" in the non-sticky section IMHO..

 

These arent the projectors these are open without a projector and the lenses a clear. So the light output should be better especially with a hid kit. I really want something with seperate high and lows because the low covers more ground on the outside than directly in the middle and with these lights there wouldnt be any restriction and they can be adjusted unlike the projectors i dont really care about the halos i could take the halos out for all i care tell me what you think about those headlights.

Let the sentence run I put 2 more periods including the 1 that was there.

 

Holy run on sentence batman.

 

I just bought a 2000 SE 5-speed, 112k miles. The previous owner said he replaced the MAF but it still has an obvious stutter at 3500rpm, so I'd like to try cleaning it before dropping $120 on a new sensor.

I'm armed with a Dremel and some QD electronic cleaner. The 'torx' bolts have that post in the middle, so I'm guessing those have to be ground down first? Or can it be cleaned still installed in the tube...

 

i got a 03 GLE with 75k, my check engine light came on and i talked to my uncles and my dad but when i turn the engine on and rev it on 2k rpm, it makes a vibration noise on the motor. Now my uncle said it was my valve lipster that got weak and i got power still, i changed my oil and it makes the noise alot less but my check light is still on......

what should i do any suggestions would be great cuz its driving me nuts hearing that noise. i had this guy tell me to put one quart of slick 50 and change my weight to 10-40..... would i be doing the righ tthing with this suggestion???

 

a buddy of mine bought those black headkights and put a HID kit in them on his max. A few weeks later he bought a pair of 03 HID's from a TMEC member who totalled his car. He thought they were crap. I thought the fitment was horrible too.