Most suggest using the Brembo blank rotors....is that the "solid" type for the rears and use the "vented" for the fronts? This link makes me think so...if you were to put the thinner solid ones as replacement for the wider vented stock ones it wouldn't fit the caliper, would it? Am I right or missing something???

Sorry about the dumb question.


http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pe...8&brandid=2165


Duhhhh!!! I assumed they were all 4 the same style...went and looked and saw there were two types...anyway, the link above would be what I would want to buy, right?

For almost a year, my 2000 has been throwing an occasional output speed sensor code. Sorry, I don't recall the P code #. I replaced the VSS, but that didn't help. If it was only an occasion CEL, that would be OK.

However, sometimes the car will barely move. Usually happens after travelling over 300 miles on an Interstate and then exiting to city roads. Happened only once without the CEL already having been on. Happens most often at a traffic light or stop sign. I'll give it gas, it'll rev up almost to red-line and move at less than 5-10 miles an hour. Hmmm, at first I thought it wasn't shifting out of first, but after typing this out, that doesn't sound right.

I took it to the dealer. They suspected a wiring harness problem. Sounds bogus to me. I'm guessing some sort of problem with my automatic tranny? Something aggravated by heat? I have 105K miles.

Any suggestions or thoughts?

I use Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube...you can get it at Pep Boys, it comes in a white bottle with a red label and silver cap...

What's the best kind of anti-freeze to use in Gen5.5 Maximas? I ask b/c on my previous car, BMW 540, the world would come to an end if you used anything BUT the BMW blue coolant that cost $$$ at the stealer. Likewise, it's fairly widely known that you MUST use only Honda power steering fluid in Honda cars. What are our options? My anti-freeze is still green, but tending to a darker green, so I'd like to change it....

There is/was a good bunch of discussion on coolant...in general I found that Toyota red or Honda blue was recommended and most tended to desire Toyota red for better success in the longterm use of our cars. Hope this helps you...it sure did me. By the way, it cost me $20/gal but lots cheaper than a new water pump or radiator from using cheap junk.

Toyota red, FTW. I got it for $14/gallon at a local dealer.

What do you think is the best wax for under 20 bucks?

Go to this link. It has some good info there. IMO I would go with MaGuires.

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=30&f=69

which one the tech MaGuries classic, tech,.....

Is it a good idea to run Mobil 1 Synthetic oil? i just need some honest opinion here..because there is alot of really great advice around the board..please let me know..thanks a mill!


Mr Rooks

I have one more question for now at least for now.

I did some research and decided to buy a Courtesy Front Strut Tower Brace, but I can't find anywhere to buy one. Where can i find one?

Mobil1 is good stuff. I've used it, Redline oil, Amsoil, Penzoil, etc.

really, IMO it doesnt really matter what oil you use if you change it regularly. I use Mobil1 or other synthetics usually, but occasionally cheap out and use "normal" oil.

You buy it from www.courtesyparts.com I would imagine. What "research" did you do exactly, since all strut tower braces are the same in "performance"...the only difference is how they look.

^^^ well that one was cheap and suppose to be a little better than a random ebay ones. I went to there site and only could find one for 95-99 not for 2000, I think they might have disscountiuned it and was wonder if there might be sites still selling there stock

Just bought my front strut tower brace from Custom Enterprise. Good people. Was on special for only $49 for the red one. They also have blue for that price. The polished one is not on special, but that's OK since they're out of those....

thanks I think I'll go for the blue. No point paying more for shiny metal

I went with red to match the battery positive terminal cover; otherwise my choice would've been blue. Check out their web site - they have some photos of 5th gens with different bars - it helped me to decide.

Ok I'm new here and can't post new threads only reply's for some reason. I have a 2003 infiniti i35 which as near as I can tell its the same as the maxima it has the VQ engine and its an auto since it has the same engine as the maxima the g35 and the 350z shouldnt all the maxima bolt-ons work and all the internals from the 350z and g35 work as well. I'm thinking of swapping 350z,g35 cams into it but im not sure if it will work. Can some one tell me if my theory for all the performance upgrades for the maxima will work for the i35. and also why i can post new threads.

If you don't find the answer from one of these guys, try the I30/I35 forum:

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=67

At what thickness should pads be replaced? I've seen some info stating 5/8" total thickness remaining and another that says when 1/8" of the usable pad area left is time to replace. What is the rule?

And rotors?

Thanks for the help.

I own a 2000 Max, in the morning or evening after work (cold start), the vehicle will fire up and then I hear a whirrr noise which lasts about a second. Any ideas what the heck this is? A couple of techs at my shop have suggested the starter, but then again they don't work on Nissans.

I Love this "CEL" Light-

1st it was telling me that it was My o2 sensor (bank 1)-
So I replaced it after driving (1) Month with the CEL on-
The Light went Off the day I replaced the o2-
CEL stayed off for (2) days-

Now I'm Getting a "P0171" (Fuel Injection System Too Lean (Bank 1))-
The "Search" Uncovered All Kinds Of Great Post w/ a lot of Very Useful Info-
But Not anything Pointing Me In the Right Direction-
On What To Do-

The Car runs Great Until about 3500 rpm-
Then it feels like I'm pulling a Mack Truck Around-

Any Advice would be GREAT-

2000 (5) Speed-
137,000 miles-
No My MAF has Not been Replaced-

Replace your MAF...

Yeah replace the mass air flow, replace the air filter if it hasn't been done in a while and you may have to have someone reprogram the ECU. Same thing happened to mine.

I just want to add that some may say that the ECU shouldn't have to be reprogrammed, but a tech in my shop has the same car with the same problem, he replaced the MAF and an two of the four O2 sensors. He refused to go get the ECU reprogrammed and his car is still throwin check engine lights no matter how many times he clears them.

its the starter not retracting because the grease is dry. there's a how-to on how to re-grease it easily on motorvate.com, or you can just ignore it like I do. It won't hurt anything.

pretty much all mechanical and suspension parts for the 02-03 Maxima are interchangeable with the I35. 350z and G35 parts are NOT necessarily interchangeable, though some of them work. They do not have the VQ35 engine that you do, though many components are shared.

You can't post new threads untilyou have 15 posts. It's an anti-spamming countermeasure.

Maxima manual shifters are ugly because they look like long ******... are there any aftermarket shifters that will shorten the lenght?

Ok when you say mechanical parts that every thing that moves is there any factory parts that I can use off the 350z like cams that will gain any performance on my infiniti, and im assuming that I can use the bolt on parts from a mixima right.

Anyone have info on this to help?? Thanks.

It depends on which cams you use. The cams in the rev up engine (298 hp & 300hp) are different, and the cams in all the other 'normal' G/Z's are the same as what you can find under your hood & valve covers.

No one has ever swapped these out just yet. Personally, I would do bolt ons(Intake/Headers/air fuel manipulation) before I went cams. For more infomration venture into the All Motor Forum and read like you have never read before.

Yeah but if you're gonna go through the trouble to get cams, ya might as well get the JWT knockoffs, Nismo, or Tomei cams because you'd probably get more out of em than the RevUp cams right?

Cool thanks man, I just was worried that it may eat up the flywheel. Actually a friend of mine works at nissan and he said he can get one for me for employee price...........now I've got to find someone to put it on......shouldn't be a problem though, I'll just get one of my Honda or Hyundai techs to do it!! Hey I appreciate the advice.

Yes, they are called, STS (short throw shifters). Look them up.

Do you have a short throw? Which one? I asked because one of the members here has a b&m short throw, and it still looks awfully long . Thanks

Oh man, I just KNEW I wasn't using my 6-speed to its fullest potential!!

I figured the rev up cams would be different, but should'nt they still fit in the i35 I was under the impression that the only difference was the cam profile i.e more aggressive and thats where the additional power came from on the rev up motors.

Rocking-
A New MAF w/ Getting my ECU Re-Programed is the Way I Will Go-

Thank You All!!!!

Is it possible to fit a 18x9 +15 with 225/35/18 on rear? Planning on pairing the wheels with JIC VIP coilovers. Does anybody have pictures of stretched out tires on a maxima? Whats the lowest offset possible on a 5th gen maxima?

9" wide coupled with 225's? The tire will most likely not fit, ND IF THEY DO THEY WILL LOOK :SPIT:.

That offset is quite low, so rubbing may be an issue.

My rear wheels look nice and even with my fronts as well as flush with my fenders.

Stats = 8" wide, 40mm offset, 15mm spacers in rear, 5mm spacers in front. (effectively 25 offset in back, and 35 in front, doing the math with the spacers installed),