5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
01-03-2007, 10:01 AM
#801
Originally Posted by wawacito
question 1: I got the 2003 SE with 6 speed. the seller was telling me there was something special/rare about this car because it had some kind of helical limited slip diff tranny. is there a huge difference between my tranny and others?
See here for more info:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=37
01-03-2007, 10:02 AM
#802
Originally Posted by kwk1
Well, basically you have a limited slip/posi-trac type diff. Which means that both wheels will get power.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=33
01-03-2007, 03:07 PM
#803
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 4
rear side markers
i tried to search for this topic but im not allowed to search yet. My rear side markers don't come on. what might the problem be? could the fuse be the problem? if so which one is it? i tried looking for it under the hood but none of the fuses seem bad. any suggestions?
01-03-2007, 03:31 PM
#804
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 19
Originally Posted by secSEblue2k2
Hello all,
Thanks for creating this thread - nice to have a place to post questions.
I've got a 2k2 SE which has run great for the 1 1/2 years i've owned it. Just recently i went out to start it and it turned over like normal, but whereas it normally starts after about 1 or 2 secs of cranking, i held the key turned for about 3 or 4 seconds and it didn't start - everything sounded normal, it just didn't start. I let off the key, paused for a second or 2, then tried again. This time it wouldn't even turn over, it just made a constant, fairly high pitched, whirring/whining type noise - but not even so much as a sputter from the engine. I had full battery power and this wasn't the clicking type noise usually encountered when a battery is dead.
I tried a few more times, with no luck and went back in the house to get Dad (gotta love car problems when home for Christmas). When we came back outside he tried it about 5 or 6 times with the same results. Turning the key just produced a constant whirring/whining noise as long as the key was held. Then about 10 mins after my first unsuccessful attempt, Dad tried it again and just held the key for what seemed like 10 seconds, this time the whining noise slowly turned into a weak sputter, at which point dad floored the gas and it finally started. After letting it run for a minute or so, we turned it off, and restarted it about 5 times and it started up perfectly every time. This was now almost 2 weeks ago and it hasn't happened again since although it has seemed to sputter a bit more a couple times immediately after starting before getting to the nice stable idle.
3 days after it happened it took it in to the local Nissan dealer and explained what happened. I got a call an hour later saying they had hooked it up and tested everything they could test, but that everything came back 100% a-ok. (The check engine light did not come on during this and no error code was thrown.)
So, i'm a bit concerned something is on it's way out but the shop says it was just a "fluke" and "probably" won't happen again. Any ideas?
Thanks much in advance.
Thanks for creating this thread - nice to have a place to post questions.
I've got a 2k2 SE which has run great for the 1 1/2 years i've owned it. Just recently i went out to start it and it turned over like normal, but whereas it normally starts after about 1 or 2 secs of cranking, i held the key turned for about 3 or 4 seconds and it didn't start - everything sounded normal, it just didn't start. I let off the key, paused for a second or 2, then tried again. This time it wouldn't even turn over, it just made a constant, fairly high pitched, whirring/whining type noise - but not even so much as a sputter from the engine. I had full battery power and this wasn't the clicking type noise usually encountered when a battery is dead.
I tried a few more times, with no luck and went back in the house to get Dad (gotta love car problems when home for Christmas). When we came back outside he tried it about 5 or 6 times with the same results. Turning the key just produced a constant whirring/whining noise as long as the key was held. Then about 10 mins after my first unsuccessful attempt, Dad tried it again and just held the key for what seemed like 10 seconds, this time the whining noise slowly turned into a weak sputter, at which point dad floored the gas and it finally started. After letting it run for a minute or so, we turned it off, and restarted it about 5 times and it started up perfectly every time. This was now almost 2 weeks ago and it hasn't happened again since although it has seemed to sputter a bit more a couple times immediately after starting before getting to the nice stable idle.
3 days after it happened it took it in to the local Nissan dealer and explained what happened. I got a call an hour later saying they had hooked it up and tested everything they could test, but that everything came back 100% a-ok. (The check engine light did not come on during this and no error code was thrown.)
So, i'm a bit concerned something is on it's way out but the shop says it was just a "fluke" and "probably" won't happen again. Any ideas?
Thanks much in advance.
01-03-2007, 03:33 PM
#805
Originally Posted by MaxBurg03
i tried to search for this topic but im not allowed to search yet. My rear side markers don't come on. what might the problem be? could the fuse be the problem? if so which one is it? i tried looking for it under the hood but none of the fuses seem bad. any suggestions?
01-03-2007, 03:39 PM
#807
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by irish44j
have you tried replacing the bulbs? they burn out pretty easily.
i sure did lol...i just put my clear side markers on ..with the red led bulbs. but they didnt come on...i put the bulbs in the front to test if they work, and they did. im thinking they went out before i changed them becuase i would always wonder how to turn them on lol.
01-03-2007, 03:39 PM
#808
Originally Posted by wawacito
hello all,
im new to these forums and also a new maxima owner. first maxima and nissan for me. had a few questions and hope you guys wont get mad for me asking noob questions. thing is - how do you not be a noob without asking questions and learning.
im new to these forums and also a new maxima owner. first maxima and nissan for me. had a few questions and hope you guys wont get mad for me asking noob questions. thing is - how do you not be a noob without asking questions and learning.
Originally Posted by wawacito
search ... sucks. cuz you have to pay ... or you have to spend HOURS even DAYS maybe reading over PAGES and PAGES and dont find exactly what you want. yes ... i tried.
Originally Posted by wawacito
question 1: I got the 2003 SE with 6 speed. the seller was telling me there was something special/rare about this car because it had some kind of helical limited slip diff tranny. is there a huge difference between my tranny and others?
Originally Posted by wawacito
question 2: skip this question - i have a "vague" idea of what a titanium edision is and i *think* i have it - but not completely sure.
Originally Posted by wawacito
question 3: i was planning on putting some magnets on the oil filter, and also on the manual tranny to help keep the metal shavings out of circulation - thing is - this is my first manual tranny and i dont know where would be a good place to put them. Im also worried that putting strong magnets down there might interfere with / hinder or mess up something. (as you can see im not that technical - i can change my own oil, various filters, audio head units and brakes - i planning on doing my own tranny fluid changes - but thats about the xtent of my knowledge - thats why i need forum help). i mean theres lots of "yellow" metals in the manual tranny (so i've read) so those wont be affectd by magnets - but anything else down there that would be sensitive to strong magnets?
01-03-2007, 03:59 PM
#810
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by irish44j
have you tried replacing the bulbs? they burn out pretty easily.
I just put my clear side markers on ..with the red led bulbs. but they didnt come on...i put the bulbs in the front to test if they work, and they did. im thinking they went out before i changed them becuase i would always wonder how to turn them on. But I know they have worked in the past when I first bought the car.
01-03-2007, 11:40 PM
#811
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 11
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Actually, it means that the wheel with the most traction gets power, not that both wheels will always get power.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=33
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=33
If enough throttle is applied, both wheels will ultimately spin.
That's all I was getting at.
I have a Torsen Ltd. Slip in my car.
With the addition of a 2500 stall convertor, my car leaves 2 nice black marks.
Granted, it's a 350-LT-1, not a VQ.
01-04-2007, 08:03 AM
#812
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1
Helpppp
So I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE and my car stalled on me today. This is the second time, It first happened last week. the first time it stalled out on me at a stop sign and then when i tried to start it agian the service engine light came on and the battery light, it started up a few more times but kept stalling, finally it started up again but kept jumping when i was breaking. So now the second time im on the highway and im just driving and again it stalled out on me my wheel locked up again. I started it a few times it would stall out again, it started again and it kepy jumping as i was driving. I took it to a mechanic and he doesnt know what it is he said its either the airflow sensor or the idle sensor, The things is does anyone know what it is? i dont want to pay 400-500 for the airflow sensor if its just the idel sensor, and he told me the idle sensor is about 150? can any help and tell me what it is and are these the right prices??
so i found out that the code is p0505 which is either my idle control sensor or air flow sensor? its just which 1 is it can any tell me by the problem i just discussed?
so i found out that the code is p0505 which is either my idle control sensor or air flow sensor? its just which 1 is it can any tell me by the problem i just discussed?
01-04-2007, 09:11 AM
#813
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 39
Originally Posted by Little John
Hi, I'm doing all four brakes (disks and pads) and wondering a couple things:
1) any tricks to keep an eye out for? I've done brakes before on my last vehicle and several motorcycles, I'm just wondering if there's anything specific to an '03.
2) Anything else I should consider doing while I'm at it?
3) DOT 3/4 brake fluid OK for replacing, or does it need DOT 5?
Danke!
1) any tricks to keep an eye out for? I've done brakes before on my last vehicle and several motorcycles, I'm just wondering if there's anything specific to an '03.
2) Anything else I should consider doing while I'm at it?
3) DOT 3/4 brake fluid OK for replacing, or does it need DOT 5?
Danke!
01-04-2007, 07:40 PM
#814
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 46
Considering Buying a 02/03 Maxima
Hey All,
I'm in the market for a new car and have just started reading about the Maxima. I'm currently driving a 2000 Ford SVT Contour. For those unfamiliar, it's a great sports sedan. There were only about 10,000 SVT Contours made from 98-2000. It is a great car for the money! Check out www.contour.org for more info.
Unfortunately I think I've got a nasty valve problem, and I'm not sure it makes sense to dump more money into it. I'm going to look into it more tomorrow, so we'll see.
Anyway I'm in the market for another manual sedan with a sporty side to it that won't cause me to break the bank. It seems like I can pick up one for about 12K.
After scanning through all 28 pages of this Newbie Thread, it looks like some of the common complaints about the 02/03 is that it's got a cable shift that isn't too smooth. I'm used to that now, so no worries.
Next it seems like the 3.5L consumes/leaks oil. Can anyone give me some more information about this? I'm curious to know how rampant of a problem this is, and what can be done to resolve it. Is it as simple as replacing the oil pan gasket?
What are some common problems with this car that I should look for? I think I saw someone mention the coils. What's the problem here, and what do the grey dots mean? Is this a problem with the 3.5L?
Finally, and I realize this is an enthusiast website, but would you recommend this car? What kind of maintainence is required to keep this car running trouble free?
Hopefully I haven't worn out my welcome with such a long first post.
Thanks in advance everyone!
- Zack
I'm in the market for a new car and have just started reading about the Maxima. I'm currently driving a 2000 Ford SVT Contour. For those unfamiliar, it's a great sports sedan. There were only about 10,000 SVT Contours made from 98-2000. It is a great car for the money! Check out www.contour.org for more info.
Unfortunately I think I've got a nasty valve problem, and I'm not sure it makes sense to dump more money into it. I'm going to look into it more tomorrow, so we'll see.
Anyway I'm in the market for another manual sedan with a sporty side to it that won't cause me to break the bank. It seems like I can pick up one for about 12K.
After scanning through all 28 pages of this Newbie Thread, it looks like some of the common complaints about the 02/03 is that it's got a cable shift that isn't too smooth. I'm used to that now, so no worries.
Next it seems like the 3.5L consumes/leaks oil. Can anyone give me some more information about this? I'm curious to know how rampant of a problem this is, and what can be done to resolve it. Is it as simple as replacing the oil pan gasket?
What are some common problems with this car that I should look for? I think I saw someone mention the coils. What's the problem here, and what do the grey dots mean? Is this a problem with the 3.5L?
Finally, and I realize this is an enthusiast website, but would you recommend this car? What kind of maintainence is required to keep this car running trouble free?
Hopefully I haven't worn out my welcome with such a long first post.
Thanks in advance everyone!
- Zack
01-04-2007, 08:13 PM
#815
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,042
I seem to recall someone running a poll, and by far the majority of owners aren't leaking oil. IIRC, if one does, it's usually the back of the valve cover, and/or oil consumption in the PCV valve (I may be wrong on the PCV, LOL)
Don't think the coils are a problem on the 3.5s, more of a 5th gen 3.0 thing.
Mine has run really well, in 53k miles I've replaced tires, brakes only, but the dealer did the tranny VB TSB when I was having some minor slip problems at WOT with a cold tranny. Have a motor mount breaking down (that's pretty common depending on how you drive it).
Mine's for sale for $12.6k... j/k, looks like you want a 6MT
Don't think the coils are a problem on the 3.5s, more of a 5th gen 3.0 thing.
Mine has run really well, in 53k miles I've replaced tires, brakes only, but the dealer did the tranny VB TSB when I was having some minor slip problems at WOT with a cold tranny. Have a motor mount breaking down (that's pretty common depending on how you drive it).
Mine's for sale for $12.6k... j/k, looks like you want a 6MT
01-04-2007, 10:55 PM
#816
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 16
thanks puppetmaster and irish44j for your informative replies. i still dont know what an HLSD is - but now I know what a VLSD is.
So if you dont recommend bothering with magnets for the manual tranny - is there anything you *would* recommend to keep the manual tranny running problem free for a looooong time (kept my last car 187000 miles and plan to keep my maxima AT LEAST 200,000+) I plan do a one time dose of 2 ounces of auto-rx for the manual tranny (per the suggestion for manual trannies on the auto-rx website) and after that to use AMSOIL GL-4 and change every 30000 miles. even if you wouldnt bother - i'd be willing to bother if magnets might be an extra insurance policy to get me more problem free miles. Just don't know where to put them and worried magnets might mess up something sensitive down there.
So if you dont recommend bothering with magnets for the manual tranny - is there anything you *would* recommend to keep the manual tranny running problem free for a looooong time (kept my last car 187000 miles and plan to keep my maxima AT LEAST 200,000+) I plan do a one time dose of 2 ounces of auto-rx for the manual tranny (per the suggestion for manual trannies on the auto-rx website) and after that to use AMSOIL GL-4 and change every 30000 miles. even if you wouldnt bother - i'd be willing to bother if magnets might be an extra insurance policy to get me more problem free miles. Just don't know where to put them and worried magnets might mess up something sensitive down there.
01-05-2007, 08:15 AM
#817
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 46
Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated!
A few more questions: How does the 6MT handle the 3.5L engine?
Also, do the rear seats fold down? Is this an option? Looking to fit my mountain bike and skis in the back sometimes. I've had this on my last 2 cars and don't think I could live without it.
Thanks All.
A few more questions: How does the 6MT handle the 3.5L engine?
Also, do the rear seats fold down? Is this an option? Looking to fit my mountain bike and skis in the back sometimes. I've had this on my last 2 cars and don't think I could live without it.
Thanks All.
01-05-2007, 10:17 AM
#818
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
MORE MAF Problems...
I installed my new maf and everything seemed to be doing great. The next day im driving my car begins to sputter and jerk very heavily as if it wants to shut off but it wont.
My car doesnt stall anymore but that jerking or whatever it is, is even worse than that. I didnt do the dealer ECU reprogram. + I know i installed the correctly and a new air filter even tho i didnt need one. It didnt do this with the old MAF.
Could someone tell me what the problem is so that i can fix this please. Thanks to everyone
My car doesnt stall anymore but that jerking or whatever it is, is even worse than that. I didnt do the dealer ECU reprogram. + I know i installed the correctly and a new air filter even tho i didnt need one. It didnt do this with the old MAF.
Could someone tell me what the problem is so that i can fix this please. Thanks to everyone
01-05-2007, 10:20 AM
#819
Originally Posted by YungmaxiOwna21
I installed my new maf and everything seemed to be doing great. The next day im driving my car begins to sputter and jerk very heavily as if it wants to shut off but it wont.
My car doesnt stall anymore but that jerking or whatever it is, is even worse than that. I didnt do the dealer ECU reprogram. + I know i installed the correctly and a new air filter even tho i didnt need one. It didnt do this with the old MAF.
Could someone tell me what the problem is so that i can fix this please. Thanks to everyone
My car doesnt stall anymore but that jerking or whatever it is, is even worse than that. I didnt do the dealer ECU reprogram. + I know i installed the correctly and a new air filter even tho i didnt need one. It didnt do this with the old MAF.
Could someone tell me what the problem is so that i can fix this please. Thanks to everyone
01-05-2007, 01:10 PM
#820
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Somerville, MA
Posts: 46
Considering Buying a 02/03 Maxima
Hey All,
So I looked a little closer at my SVT Contour that I mentioned a few posts earlier, and I think my connecting rod bearing may be on it's way out. It's certainly an engine internal, and I don't think it's worth fixing.
Now that I know I'm in the market, what else can you guys tell me about the 5.5 Gen Maximas? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Since I can't really search in a specific forum, it's difficult to get any info. I've been reading up quite alot and so far like what I'm hearing.
If you guys could answer some of the questions I have in the above posts as well as a couple of these questions, I'd certainly appreciate it.
How's the stock suspension on a 02/03 SE? Sporty? I'm looking for a stiffer ride, not confort. Something I can take into the corners.
One car I'm looking at is a 2002 with 45K miles and the 6MT transmission. They are offering it for 12.8K How's that pricewise? What would you pay for it?
Thanks Again everyone.
- Zack
So I looked a little closer at my SVT Contour that I mentioned a few posts earlier, and I think my connecting rod bearing may be on it's way out. It's certainly an engine internal, and I don't think it's worth fixing.
Now that I know I'm in the market, what else can you guys tell me about the 5.5 Gen Maximas? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Since I can't really search in a specific forum, it's difficult to get any info. I've been reading up quite alot and so far like what I'm hearing.
If you guys could answer some of the questions I have in the above posts as well as a couple of these questions, I'd certainly appreciate it.
How's the stock suspension on a 02/03 SE? Sporty? I'm looking for a stiffer ride, not confort. Something I can take into the corners.
One car I'm looking at is a 2002 with 45K miles and the 6MT transmission. They are offering it for 12.8K How's that pricewise? What would you pay for it?
Thanks Again everyone.
- Zack
01-05-2007, 03:30 PM
#821
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
Still haven't figured out how to post a question in the noobie section, so hoping I get a reply from...somewhere. Vehicle is 2001 SE. Thanks in advance.
1. I got quoted a price of 471.17 for Tokico Illuminas (front struts and rear shocks) and 211.37 for Eibach Pro-kit springs, plus shipping. Are these reasonable prices?
2. Ballpark range for strut/shock installation? I know alignment is mandatory and on top of installation.
3. Do I have to deal with camber issues - get camber kit or camber plates - with this setup?
1. I got quoted a price of 471.17 for Tokico Illuminas (front struts and rear shocks) and 211.37 for Eibach Pro-kit springs, plus shipping. Are these reasonable prices?
2. Ballpark range for strut/shock installation? I know alignment is mandatory and on top of installation.
3. Do I have to deal with camber issues - get camber kit or camber plates - with this setup?
01-05-2007, 06:25 PM
#822
Even though this is for irish to answer, I'll give it a shot 
I would say that's a good price. But always try checking on here in the classifieds for better prices.
There is a very nice and informative sticky (top of page) with step by step instrcurions. It's actually not that hard.
If you do choose not to do it on your own, it's typically about 50/wheel + 30-40 for alignment. (Pretty sure you knew the price for the alignment)
I don;t have one, nor think it's mandatory, but I'll let irish44j elaborate further.
Originally Posted by bluesky2702
1. I got quoted a price of 471.17 for Tokico Illuminas (front struts and rear shocks) and 211.37 for Eibach Pro-kit springs, plus shipping. Are these reasonable prices?
Originally Posted by bluesky2702
2. Ballpark range for strut/shock installation? I know alignment is mandatory and on top of installation.
If you do choose not to do it on your own, it's typically about 50/wheel + 30-40 for alignment. (Pretty sure you knew the price for the alignment)
Originally Posted by bluesky2702
3. Do I have to deal with camber issues - get camber kit or camber plates - with this setup?
01-05-2007, 07:01 PM
#823
Originally Posted by Little John
Asking again. I know the answer to #3, tho.
A few things:
1. make sure to torque all bolts/nuts to correct tightness.
2. re-lube caliper pins while you're at it
3. clean the spring clips and re-lube
4. use a good anti-squeal compount
5. MAKE SURE to big-time clean the rotors if you're getting new ones. They often come covered in a greasy anti-rust compound....nasty.
6. use ATE BLUE brake fluid....it's the best. Period.
buy it here for a good price:
http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/itemde...12&showbrake=1
01-05-2007, 07:06 PM
#824
Originally Posted by wawacito
thanks puppetmaster and irish44j for your informative replies. i still dont know what an HLSD is - but now I know what a VLSD is.
So if you dont recommend bothering with magnets for the manual tranny - is there anything you *would* recommend to keep the manual tranny running problem free for a looooong time (kept my last car 187000 miles and plan to keep my maxima AT LEAST 200,000+) I plan do a one time dose of 2 ounces of auto-rx for the manual tranny (per the suggestion for manual trannies on the auto-rx website) and after that to use AMSOIL GL-4 and change every 30000 miles. even if you wouldnt bother - i'd be willing to bother if magnets might be an extra insurance policy to get me more problem free miles. Just don't know where to put them and worried magnets might mess up something sensitive down there.
So if you dont recommend bothering with magnets for the manual tranny - is there anything you *would* recommend to keep the manual tranny running problem free for a looooong time (kept my last car 187000 miles and plan to keep my maxima AT LEAST 200,000+) I plan do a one time dose of 2 ounces of auto-rx for the manual tranny (per the suggestion for manual trannies on the auto-rx website) and after that to use AMSOIL GL-4 and change every 30000 miles. even if you wouldnt bother - i'd be willing to bother if magnets might be an extra insurance policy to get me more problem free miles. Just don't know where to put them and worried magnets might mess up something sensitive down there.
01-05-2007, 07:07 PM
#825
Originally Posted by zgendron
Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated!
A few more questions: How does the 6MT handle the 3.5L engine?
Also, do the rear seats fold down? Is this an option? Looking to fit my mountain bike and skis in the back sometimes. I've had this on my last 2 cars and don't think I could live without it.
Thanks All.
A few more questions: How does the 6MT handle the 3.5L engine?
Also, do the rear seats fold down? Is this an option? Looking to fit my mountain bike and skis in the back sometimes. I've had this on my last 2 cars and don't think I could live without it.
Thanks All.
Yes, both rear seats fold down. The opening is about 3 feet wide.
01-05-2007, 07:11 PM
#826
Originally Posted by zgendron
Hey All,
So I looked a little closer at my SVT Contour that I mentioned a few posts earlier, and I think my connecting rod bearing may be on it's way out. It's certainly an engine internal, and I don't think it's worth fixing.
Now that I know I'm in the market, what else can you guys tell me about the 5.5 Gen Maximas? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Since I can't really search in a specific forum, it's difficult to get any info. I've been reading up quite alot and so far like what I'm hearing.
If you guys could answer some of the questions I have in the above posts as well as a couple of these questions, I'd certainly appreciate it.
How's the stock suspension on a 02/03 SE? Sporty? I'm looking for a stiffer ride, not confort. Something I can take into the corners.
One car I'm looking at is a 2002 with 45K miles and the 6MT transmission. They are offering it for 12.8K How's that pricewise? What would you pay for it?
Thanks Again everyone.
- Zack
So I looked a little closer at my SVT Contour that I mentioned a few posts earlier, and I think my connecting rod bearing may be on it's way out. It's certainly an engine internal, and I don't think it's worth fixing.
Now that I know I'm in the market, what else can you guys tell me about the 5.5 Gen Maximas? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Since I can't really search in a specific forum, it's difficult to get any info. I've been reading up quite alot and so far like what I'm hearing.
If you guys could answer some of the questions I have in the above posts as well as a couple of these questions, I'd certainly appreciate it.
How's the stock suspension on a 02/03 SE? Sporty? I'm looking for a stiffer ride, not confort. Something I can take into the corners.
One car I'm looking at is a 2002 with 45K miles and the 6MT transmission. They are offering it for 12.8K How's that pricewise? What would you pay for it?
Thanks Again everyone.
- Zack
1. Springs: Having tried about 1/2 the springs out there for this car, I highly suggest Eibach Pro-Kit (assuming you don't go with coilovers). The Eibachs have a reasonable ride quality, but excellent handling. Make sure to upgrade struts at the same time (suggest Tokico Illuminas)
2. Rear sway bar: gets rid of the Maxima's propensity to heavily understeer.
3. stage 2 lower tie bar: tightens up the steering response
Of course, wheels and tires have a big effect too. the stock tires on the Maxima suck. Also changing to a wheel with a 30mm offset (stock is 45mm) gives a better stance for handling.....
In any case, there's a whole forum here (and a sticky in the 5G forum) discussing handling upgrades so that's it for now
01-05-2007, 07:14 PM
#827
Originally Posted by bluesky2702
Still haven't figured out how to post a question in the noobie section, so hoping I get a reply from...somewhere. Vehicle is 2001 SE. Thanks in advance.
1. I got quoted a price of 471.17 for Tokico Illuminas (front struts and rear shocks) and 211.37 for Eibach Pro-kit springs, plus shipping. Are these reasonable prices?
2. Ballpark range for strut/shock installation? I know alignment is mandatory and on top of installation.
3. Do I have to deal with camber issues - get camber kit or camber plates - with this setup?
1. I got quoted a price of 471.17 for Tokico Illuminas (front struts and rear shocks) and 211.37 for Eibach Pro-kit springs, plus shipping. Are these reasonable prices?
2. Ballpark range for strut/shock installation? I know alignment is mandatory and on top of installation.
3. Do I have to deal with camber issues - get camber kit or camber plates - with this setup?
1. Those sound like typical prices.
2. Most shops will charge 3-4 hours of labor (shysters!)= $200-300. My advice: if you don't know how to do it yourself, find a local Maxima.org'er who does...or ask for help in your local Org forum....offer lunch and beer for your helpers. It's really pretty easy to do springs/struts on the maxima.
3. No, as long as you don't "Slam" the car. With eibachs, you will not need any camber adjustments. My car is within factory camber spec even with my camber plates off (I sold them).
And yes, make sure to get an alignment when you install any new suspension parts....
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01-05-2007, 09:57 PM
#830
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 16
thankx for your replies. I have another question for manual tranny fluid change. I read the DIY for doing the fluid change and it seems almost identical to doing an engine oil change - except for one part - there are no instructions to change a filter. Is there a filter for manual tranny fluid that needs to be changed as part of regular maintenance like engine oil filters?
01-06-2007, 08:12 AM
#833
Hi all, I've been scanning the forums relentlessly for about 2 months and I never post, but here is a question, looks like its time for an intake. I know I dont want to drill a hole in my fender. I'm thinking the frankencar w/apexi, is there anyone who would advise to save more get something else or is this a good choice? Thanks
01-06-2007, 10:05 AM
#834
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
Thanks all for the input. I 'spect my brother in law the mechanic for UPS will be happy to assist (ie, do the job while I assist and ask dumb questions) in return for a case of Beck's. Another question - do Illuminas come with new dust boots, or are those a dealer item? This sounds like one of those jobs where I don't wanna have the car up on jack stands in a barn on Sunday afternoon and THEN find out I'm missing an essential part. And yup, in Indiana people really work on cars in barns....provided the barn doesn't have livestock.
01-06-2007, 02:16 PM
#836
Originally Posted by MetalBlueMaxx
one more question, having a hard time being sure there is a 2k2 y pipe available, seem all are 00-01 i.e. cattman
01-06-2007, 04:37 PM
#837
Originally Posted by MetalBlueMaxx
Hi all, I've been scanning the forums relentlessly for about 2 months and I never post, but here is a question, looks like its time for an intake. I know I dont want to drill a hole in my fender. I'm thinking the frankencar w/apexi, is there anyone who would advise to save more get something else or is this a good choice? Thanks
Frankencar has more or less stopped making maxima intakes as well (even though their site is still up).
Best bet would be to get in touch with Brian at Berk...they still make them, and they're pretty much the same as the Frankencar.
Do not waste your money on Injen, btw.
Apexi filter is an excellent choice (the best)
01-06-2007, 04:38 PM
#838
Originally Posted by dazeskater24
quick question is there by any chance a write up somewhere on the painted headlights mod for a 2000 maxima.
here's the howto
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=88
01-06-2007, 04:39 PM
#839
Originally Posted by bluesky2702
Thanks all for the input. I 'spect my brother in law the mechanic for UPS will be happy to assist (ie, do the job while I assist and ask dumb questions) in return for a case of Beck's. Another question - do Illuminas come with new dust boots, or are those a dealer item? This sounds like one of those jobs where I don't wanna have the car up on jack stands in a barn on Sunday afternoon and THEN find out I'm missing an essential part. And yup, in Indiana people really work on cars in barns....provided the barn doesn't have livestock.
01-06-2007, 05:03 PM
#840
So is frankencar not an option or something that would just be hard to get but is still around? as in being produced at a lot lower number.
Forgot to ask what about the weapon-r or aem? Also how do I find the berk websight? I've never heard of them before. Thanks a lot this forum is the ish nish!
Forgot to ask what about the weapon-r or aem? Also how do I find the berk websight? I've never heard of them before. Thanks a lot this forum is the ish nish!