pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you tried searching?

I got 250 completely relevant results from an extremely simple and common-sense search query. You should do the same.

maxima415

I did try searching. what did you type in the search bar? i searched vq30de camshaft and didnt see any threads about my question

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you google 'vq30de camshaft'? Searching should not be limited to the org. http://tinyurl.com/l8u2xg

And I searched 'vq30 cams'. Start reading up.

maxima415

will do thanx

BuRoJo

So the versions are more about the manual than the vehicle itself. i.e. there is no 2000 1/2 model of the car.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It appears that way. I've never seen any significant 'half year' changes for the A33.

JoySoCute

Has anyone had any luck cleaning your wheel sensors? My ABS light is on. I don't want to pay dealership $90 to tell me which sensor is faulty....and I'm willing to take each wheel off one at a time and clean each sensor if there is a chance it will work. Also, what did you use to clean them?

Just spent $2000 on IACV and EMU...hoping to save a few bucks on this!

JoySoCute

By the way, was $2000 too much to pay for IACV and new ECU? I couldn't find a used ECU.

Sammy Z

If you ground pin 9 on your OBD, it will read the code for you. the light blinks long and short pulses. it starts with 12 (one long two short) then the error code. Mine was 31, R rear sensor. I tried to remove it and claen it with a wire brush but no luck. I put an Ohm meter on it and it was open. I had to get a new one, $140. there was a lot of info on this forum that helped.
Here is a link, start at page 48 but use pin 9 not pin 8.
http://www.boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/2001/br.pdf

Trantice

Hi guys,

I've had my SES light on for awhile now, and I knew it was the 02 sensors due to a reading from AutoZone.

Anyhow, I finally got it checked out. My car guy said the one of the rear 02 sensors is completely dead, and that the front two 02 sensors are 'lazy'. He recommended changing out the one rear one, but mentioned that the front two will eventually need to be changed out too. What exactly does 'lazy' mean?

I kinda knew about the 02 sensors, but what do you guys recommend? Should I just change out all 4 02 sensors to be safe? Should I buy the parts myself and have him install them for a cheaper price?

Also, are there any repair guys out there located on Long Island, or near NYC? And where to buy the parts, is DaveB still selling stuff? I can't seem to find a link to his web site.

JoySoCute

Thank You....I will try this.

th3shuck

iTrader: (5)

Quick question. I attempted to replace the third cylinder ignition coil on my 2002 maxima but right off the bat, one of the bolts broke that is on the back of the intake. I had my socket wrench on it, was pulling pretty hard and bam. It's on one of the first few steps of the write up. What are the alternative methods of taking the intake off to access coils 1,3,5? It just sucks, the first time I try to fix my car, something goes wrong. I appreciate it guys. -E

ghowar6

I have a 2002 maxima SE & my wife was driving it on the freeway, she tried to accelerate to change lanes & it started sputtering & died. It would start but would only run for a few seconds then die again. I had it towed to my family mechanic. He can keep it going but the compluter hooked up to it will not tell him a problem... I had him change the plugs & clean the MAF but he still says it's running "rich" causing it to flood & die.... any sugestions...?
****thanks in advance for any advise on this. ****
I'm trying not to spend $1000 for the dealership to tell me I need to fix everything on the car...

vq30help

someone please help im having a problem with my wifes 2000 nissan maxima SE 5sd on decelaration there is a sound coming from the engine bay...i just had the passenger hub, wheel bearing and axle replaced..car drives fine its just f^*kin annoyoning and i dont want it to turn into a problem...i have had ppl say its the clutch...but since im not a nissan dude i figured i would ask ppl who know what they are talking about...PM me if possible

VQP0WER

Oh come on man! Can you give us anymore info than that? What type of sound, where from, when does it happen, etc etc etc.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Look at the timing cover engine mount, it could very well be time to change it.

And as said, you have neglected to mention anything about what type of sound, where it's coming from, etc.

Why would you want people to PM you? You post in the thread, you get responses in the thread.

gunfunk

I recently bought a 2002 Maxima 6spd and got a very nice deal and love the car. Unfortounatley, it has 158000 km and requires a new clutch. I went to a dealer and he told me that I require a new flywheel when replacingthe clutch as the old flywheel cannot be machined. When you replace a clutch on a maxima, is replacing the flywheel necessary. The nissan dealer quoted me a price of $1823.40 Canadian for this part (12310-8J100). Do youo have any thoughts?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I've heard of some being able to have the stock dual-mass flywheel turned, but for the most part it seems many places just can't do it.

FWIW you can get the flywheel off of Courtesy's site, even with shipping to Canada (if they do) it's much much cheaper:
12310-8J100, $429.94 each at Courtesy

$430 USD ~= $465 CAD.

If your flywheel is in good shape, then no, replacement isn't necessary. However if you do need to replace the flywheel (and you want a brand new one) it would be cheapest to go with an aftermarket lightweight flywheel, instead of the stock dual-mass POS.

gunfunk

Thank you very much for answering. I live pretty close to buffalo/niagra falls. I think I will just come down to the states and pick up these parts. Just for all your information I am going to post the prices I found online in the states compared to the prices in canada quoted by a nissan dealer.

The dealer quoted me the following parts and prices (all prices in canadian dollars):

12310-8J100 - Flywheel $1823.40
30100-VW305 - Clutch Disk (x2) $130.99 x 2 = $261.98 (why 2: I don't know)
30210-8J101 - Cover $185.59 (pressure plate I believe)
30502-41U20 - Bearing $73.17


Most Nissan dealers in the states offer the following prices per part (all prices in US dollars):

12310-8J100 - Flywheel $429.94
30100-VW305 - Clutch Disk (x1) $83.74
30210-8J101 - Cover $157.86
30502-41U20 - Bearing $34.93

MUCH CHEAPER.

So I have a couple more questions:

1. Why has the dealer quoted me for 2 clutch disks?
2. When I go to a place like "Courtesy's site" am I receiving GENUINE nissan parts or some sort of a replica?
3. WHY is it necessary to change the flywheel when replacing a clutch. The dealer told me that if I don't I will fry my new clutch?

Thanks a lot. Soon enough I will have 15 posts and be able to post normally!!!

jarcarroll

Hi, i'm new, longtime viewer first time poster.
(2002 GLE)

My problem is my dash lights. But not the warning lights, the lights that illuminate the speedometer, gas gauge, etc. They will not illuminate at night, and this causes me problems between the "authorities" and my lead foot.

What fuse would die to cause this to break, and please keep in mind that all other lights, and features of the car (it has 137k) work flawlessly (the cabin lights, ac, bose, etc). I just took it in for a major service, (belts, trans, coolant, etc.) and the new belts caused the alternator to die, so I got that replaced in the past week.

Thanks for giving this noob some help.

James Carroll

RBW

Hi everyone.

So I picked up a cheap 2002 Maxima SE on Craigslist that had been in a relatively minor front end crash. The car checks out as mechanically sound, but the impact was enough to deploy both airbags and mess up the seltbelt tensioners.

I have some questions about getting this car safe again.

Are the 2000, 2001 or 2003 driver's side airbags with the radio controls interchangeable with the 2002 SE model?

Are the 2000, 2001 or 2003 air bag modules interchangeable with a 2002?

Are the 2000, 2001, 2003 seltbelts and selt belt tensioners interchangeable with a 2002?

Thank you in advance for any help!

R.B.

Teddie18

iTrader: (3)

I don't remember which fuse you need to check but they're labeled. Open the box in the drivers foot well and see the diagram on the lid.

Also, how in the world did a new belt cause the alternator to go bad? Any belt that's on there, whether it's good or bad, will put tension on the alternator and make it turn. I might be wrong but this doesn't sound right.

Teddie18

iTrader: (3)

The seat belts are interchangeable for 2000-2003. Check this site http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1956_1957.html and search around to see if the part numbers are the same.

RBW

Thank you!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Courtesy uses proprietary part codes, generally speaking nothing will have the same 'part number' there, regardless of compatibility.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

1. They're idiots, who knows.
2. Courtesy is a Nissan dealer, same as any regular dealer parts department you'd go to. Personally I'd order through Dave B though, see if he can't ship to Canada or just ship them to the Niagara Falls area. He'll be even cheaper than Courtesy, most times.
3. If the flywheel is scored or otherwise damaged, it can eat up a new clutch disc. Also, if you don't resurface it you may experience a bit of clutch chatter.

Have you not checked any yet? First step in electrical diagnosis, check ALL of the fuses.

ghowar6

What does a new MAF usually run???

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Impossible to say, prices vary drastically. If you do the stupid thing and buy a brand new AM600, quite a bit.

However if you do the smart thing and get an A33 MAF and swap over the thermistor, then ~$80 shipped from Dave B.

If your profile is correct in that you have an A34, you are aware that it will not just plug right in, correct?

max00mike

iTrader: (1)

hi...im new here and i can just say wow!!amazing forum...so i bought my maxima 2 weeks ago i love this car (114 000k)and now ive got the 02 139 code....(oxygen sensor)

what is the way to fix this issue,,,change the sensor or simply cleaning it

i saw that the canada version had a different hexsaust/catalytic system vs the us...theres the same number of sensor on both model or not??

also change my plug,oil motor for synthetic,air filter(mobil1),can i should change my iol transmission???


thanks

mike

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

02 139? Do what? That's not even close to being any sort of DTC.

You can test the oxygen sensor (if that is indeed what this supposed code is for) to see if it's even failing, or you could just outright replace it. If you have the tools you could try cleaning it, but I wouldn't be expecting it to come out perfect.

For MY00, Fed/Canada spec exhausts are identical. Only Cali is different.

That whole last bit, are you asking or telling? What does 'can i should change my iol transmission' mean?

camsauce

2001 Maxima SE - 5spd - 140k miles - stock

Car immediately stalls when starting unless gas peddle is depressed. Car will not idle unless it is running warm and is downshifted into 1st gear and the clutch is depressed at ~300-400 rpm. IF it idles, it sits at 300-400 rpms and is obviously quite rough. Car runs normally outside idle/stalling. No codes have been thrown other than a one-time occurrence of a P0505. There was a P0430 a couple months back which disappeared on it's own. Here's what I've checked/done so far:

- IACV just replaced with geniune OEM Nissan part (was also replaced by the dealer about ~60k miles back)
- MAF cleaned with CRC
- MAF disconnected while engine was idling (no difference)
- TPS sensor disconnected and reconnected while idling (no difference)
- Throttle Body cleaned
- Air filter replaced
- No discernable vacuum leaks, weird noises or smells
- No detected shorts with wiring harness

I have tried the Idle ReLearn process (w/o Consult II) a couple of times and can't seem to get it to work properly. It has started a few times, idled at ~1000 rpms then slowly has decreased to 300-400rpms (which I assume is the relearn process - but it seems to be getting it all wrong). I'm stumped -- any ideas?

max00mike

iTrader: (1)

sorry i was tired....my max is close to 115 000k and i dont really know when the oil transmission was changed the last time,,,i want to know if i should change it now or wait???

quiksilver20004

Tranny oil depends on whether it is a manual or automatic tranny. Manual transmissions i would change every 60k if it is daily driven moderatley easy. Now if you beat the hell out of your car i would change it more often. So you would be due at 120k so 115 is perfectly fine to change it at. Now if you have an automatic i wouldnt mess with it other than to add oil if needed. If you really want to do something then just change the oil. DO NOT have it flushed! I worked for valvoline and saw too many high millage cars have their trannys flushed and that was the end of them. For some reason automatics with the way they are built get used to running and shifting with the old oil. When you flush them you break free deposits that can lodge in valving and other things, so i do not recomend a flush! And if you have a 5spd make sure you get oil that meets or exceeds the recomendations. Not sure if older maximas took GL4 or higher but i know i put Mobil1 75w90 gear oil in my car then found out it was GL4 rated and my car needed GL5 cause the GL4 will eat syncros.
Go with royal purple or another type i think its called syncro mesh

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You mean transmission fluid? Or gear oil?

Since you've neglected to either fill out your profile or tell us what trans you have, we can't give any advise.

Have you looked at it? Does it look okay, or does it look like it needs to be changed?

And wait until...when?

impalaman

Hey Fellas...I am currently working on a 2003 Maxima with the 3.5 V6. The thermostat froze up and got the car a bit hot. I caught it in time, got it home, let it cool down and then changed out the thermostat. I removed the old one, put it in a pot of boiling water at 220 degrees and it didn't open. So after the install of the new one and flushing the system with new coolant, checked that both cooling fans come on and there are no leaks from the water pump, the temp gauge still reads warm-hot but ONLY when the AC is running. If the AC is off, the temp gauge reads normal. As I said, both fans are running correctly unless there is something I am missing here. Since I am new to Nissans, can you fellas please help me out on this one? I appreciate it

-ImpalaMan

Black_Magic

just got a P0420 on my 00 max...do i need a new converter?

quiksilver20004

What are you asking for here? if you changed the thermostat your fine. Most cars get a little warmer while using the air because the condenser for the ac is in front of your radiator and it works the same as the radiator by dissipating heat from your ac system. So when you have the ac on instead of pulling fresh cool air over the radiator you are pulling warm to hot air off of the condenser. Thus the reason for two fans.

If that didnt cover what you were asking then make your question a little more prominent.

impalaman

Yeah, sorry about that...The thing is that after changing out the thermostat, the car now runs normally with the AC off, but with the AC on, the temp gauge gets back into red "hot" area. I know the AC will make the car run a little warmer, but not enough to make the car run hot again. The only thing I can think of is the temp sensor on the engine. Can you point me in the right direction as far as testing the temp sensor for the gauge? I know many cars have two temp sensors, one for the PCM and the other for the gauge cluster. I could be wrong about the Maxima, but that's why I am here I need the location(s) of the temp sensor(s) and how to test them (if possible) with a volt/ohm meter. One other thing, when the gauge shows hot, there are no secondary indications such as boiling coolant coming out of the radiator cap or anything like that. Thanks again

-ImpalaMan

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The 5.5 gauge cluster temp gauge runs off of the ECTS, directly from the ECU.

Have you checked for dirt or debris in the condenser, and in between the condenser and the radiator?

impalaman

I can see through the radiator and condensor just fine. Small patches of dirt here and there, but nothing that should restrict the air flow much at all. Am I correct in assuming that if the water pump is out that it would be leaking out of the water pump? I mean, in my experience, if the water pump goes out, that it would be leaking like crazy from the pump because the bearings would be fried and no longer sealed.

-Jerry