MrIncome15

OK 5th generation people i need ur help! I have a 2003 maxima and a friend and I were in the process of installing my pioneer deck bc the 6 disc bose desk made my speakers cut out. So anyways in the process when we pulled out the the big connector that was in the big connector out of the back of the 6 disk changer, the connector came apart and the wires came out. So i dont know where all the wires were origionally at in the connector! I looked online for the right wiring diagram and i put the pins in it according to that but it still didnt work on my head unit so i plugged the original 6 disk changer back up and it now didnt work. Can anybody please tell me the wiring diagram for pins that go into the connectors? I cant stand driving around with out any music!

Intrepid1

I do not notice any difference.

I think if they are disconnected, the "soft" setting is always "on" since there is no power to them, and they work by "energizing" themselves (to harden up) at higher speeds, yes?

J57ltr

Thank you for the response, but as I stated I have already searched this site for many hours concerning this code. I don't have the code number at this time but the description of the code is Lean bank #1. I also am not going to replace a part that I can not verify is bad, I just can't afford to start swapping parts.

Every thread that had this problem ended the same way. The person bought a new MAF and put it on and it worked for a short time then threw the exact same code. All threads ended this way, or there was no follow up as to if it even fixed the problem. One was Avlipbird (sp?) and his thread lasted for a while and ended up with the code coming up again.

There were lots of people that said that swapping in a new MAF requires a trip to the dealership to reflash ECU for the new MAF. And I have gotten differing information even from the Nissan stealership.

There has to be a way to check the MAF. I have worked on many different brands of cars and they all have a spec for checking the MAF output. Chevys used to use a PWM signal on the TPI systems using the bosch MAF the pulse width was X at idle and Y at a ceriain speed. Fords like my Thunderbird SC used a variable voltage 0-5V and would be like .6V at idle and about .95 at 60 mph steady state cruise. I have searched but was unable to find this information. I am not new to searching at all but maybe I am not using the terminolgy that you guys use.

As far as cleaning the MAF causing damage, well I only used the spray and didn't use anything else. And it only seemed to work long enough to get the car to pass inspection. But since the code that came back was the same as the one everybody said pointed to the MAF, no one was able to really fix the problem since it always seemed to return with the same code even after MAF replacment it doesn't seem like that is the Real problem. Maybe it just crutches another problem I don't know.

This car doesn't even have a way to check fuel pressure, which I find to be a pain since I could have a slightly weak fuel pump that could cause the same problem.

Thanks,

Jeff

bigpimpen092

iTrader: (3)

Please PM me if you have any instructions on how to remove the headliner from the car so I can gain access to the sunroof.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

My head hurts now

A few points:
I clean my MAF every time I clean my K&N filter, so about every 5k or so. My MAF lasted 120k miles, I'm currently on a used MAF @ 121k, and I see no reason to go the dealer to get a relearn either so Different for everyone I guess.



Here's how to check the MAF:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ight=Check+MAF

I highly doubt it's your fuel pressure/pump.

Also, just a hunch
From that list, intake air leaks, oxygen sensor #1, MAF, or incorrect PCV hose connection are very likely, the others ... not so much.

Check the obvious/free/no cost items first.
Check the MAF, check for airleaks, check PCV valve function/system, on both sides, (rear valve cover and vent hose) and for exhaust leaks (unlikely though).

Then, if all check out OK, I would start by buying the cheapest items first, in this case I think it would be MAF< but since it may have checked out, try the O2 sensor route. Although a 'dying' MAF may exhibit intermittent problems, and still may check out OK. My old one did, but I bought a used one on here for 50$, so that was a no brainier, and I never got a code for it just random misbehavior.

Then, at that point, after all is checked out and you have a new O2 sensor and MAF, then I'd start getting really frustrated.

Most dealerships will start with the obvious, and then just start replacing shat, and charge you for labor, so in the long run, a few minutes of your time, and perhaps a MAF and O2sensor later, you still saved $$ vs taking it in. But you knew that because you stated 'stealership'.

Ohmare_Q

Hi, I just bought a 2000 Maxima and I'm getting horrible gas mileage, about 13.5ish mpg. My commute is all highway so I don't see why it's so horrible. What type of gas do you guys fill up with? Is there anything else I can do to help the gas mileage? BTW this is a 5spd. Thanks.

islingpaint151

would that be required even if the mechanic reset the computer with an obdII?

The6spdMax

iTrader: (23)

How many miles on the car? Either way, lets start with a tune up first; Fluids change, tire pressure, air filter, pcv valve, spark plugs, MAF, o2 sensors and more.

islingpaint151

anyone ever had to replace the fuel gauge sending unit in a 03 maxima? can it be done? I figured i would ask before ordering the parts just to find out it cant be done without replacing the whole unit.

OdurtyG

If I understand you correctLy, I had this very same probLem!
What I found out was that the front-right "dust cover" for the rotor, (not sure if that what you caLL it but 2me it looks Like a sheiLd around the rotor) was bent in and touching the rotor.
-it wouLd happen when I wouLd make right turns and when I wouLd go over bumps asweLL.

I hope this heLps!!!

J57ltr

Thanks for your reply, I know I put a lot of info in there, but I try to include as much as possible. I should have mentioned that the O2 sensors seem to be up to par and have never had a code other than the P0171. I have also checked for vacuum leaks along with the PCV system using an unlit propane torch, visually, and by hand.

I never came acrosss the "how to check the Maf" thread. I guess after hours of pouring over this info I guess I was a little bleary eyed and I missed it.

I also doubt it's the fuel pump, but there is no easy way to check I cannot verify this. But since it's been 2 years it would have died by now I am sure.

Also I never take my cars to anybody, since I couldn't even get an oil change without some idiot crossthreading the drain plug. Never been to the Stealership for anything, I just know how they are.

I will check out the MAF and see what the whatall is. Thanks again for the link, and report back.

Also I was unable to find a fuel filter and I cannot find one listed in any of the usual suspects (AZ, Hi-Lo, Advance, XL parts). Am I missing something or is the only filter the strainer on the fuel pump?

Jeff

J57ltr

Here are the results:

Between ground (black wire) and Signal (White) these are the readings
I got using a Fluke 112 meter.

Key on Engine off: 1.092V
Idle: 1.426V
2.5K rpm: 2.322V
4K rpm. 3.062V
The max voltage I could get out of the meter at no load is 3.692V

The test method I used for getting the max reading was to use the max hold feature on the meter and reved the engine to almost 5.5K peak.

I know that typically a MAF meter measures the amount of air coming into the engine in Kilograms per unit of time. I also have seen that reving an unloaded engine and reading the MAF is less than the the loaded value, like actually driving the car or having it on a dyno. I know on my SC I would never hit near 5V just reving the engine, but on the dyno it would show 5V.

I know that one of the guys in the thread on the how to check the MAF had 4V at 4K, I also had different wire colors as well (My car has Red Grey instead of Red Green).

Also when we first got the car the CEL would come on usually while just getting the car going from a stop around 20-30 mph driving like any normal 30 something with kids would do. The engine rarely goes to 3K and is driven by my Wife primarily. The output is linear at anything near part throttle so I am a little stumped why it's giving this code. I have used an Accuratron code reader and it will monitor several items and one of them was the O2 sensors and they were fine.

So is this MAF toast or what? Like I said earlier I can reset it now and and it will come right back on start up.

Thanks again.

Jeff

J57ltr

Update:

I went to Autozone tonight and checked the code again even though I told my Wife to take it to Advance and have them reset the code after cleaning the MAF. She said today that she had gone inside (with the keys) and that a woman was reseting the code and made a big deal about it like there was some sort of wrong doing in reseting the code after I had worked on the car. Well my Wife told me that the light was on as soon as she started the car. So obviously the woman that was trying to reset the code was not qualified to work a calculator. So since she didn't have the keys she was not able to access the computer or reset the code.

I reset the code myself at Autozone and we drove about 7 miles home and I told my wife not to go past 3K for a while since I do not know yet if the MAF is bad or not. I'll wait and see what happens to see if I can get it to pass, while I figure out what the problem really is.

At dinner this evening my Dad mentioned swapping the O2 sensors for Bank 1 and Bank 2 to see if the problem moves to bank 2.

What do the experts think?

Thanks

Jeff

pepox369

first of all..use 91+ octane gas, also check ur tires air pressure. low pressure will kill ur mpg. Next, check the air filter, a dirty air filter is another big reason to get terrible mpg..

if its been 3000+ miles since you did you last oil change.. DO IT now! i like to use synthetic.. this doesn't affect gas millage so drastically but i feel good knowing my car is running clean..

If all of the above doesn't help ur millage.. then run a Seafoam fuel system cleaner thru ur engine.. (the one you put in the gas tank)...

After you drive you car around for a while and you run low on gas again .. replace the spark plugs.. seafoam tend to clean the injectors and the such so well that the gunk gets stuck in the spark plugs..

if this doesn't help.. then you need to do research in here about MAF problems and other gas millage problems..

max_the_knife

I need help!! My 2000 Nissan Maxima SE M/T sometimes would not start. When i turn the key, all the lights are on in the dash and they don't dim in brightness, so I am tempted to say it is not the battery.

I have no hesitation when it does start, so.. I don't think its the starter.

The car has never shut off on me while driving. so... i don't think its the alternator.

I cleaned the battery terminals a couple days ago and it started up instantly so I thought problem fixed, then today at the post office it refuses to start. Triple A (AAA) tows me to PEP Boys and when the mechanic looked at the car it started immediately.

Has anyone ever encountered or heard anything like this? I am lost.

I am think maybe lose ground wire? Or a relay switch maybe?

J57ltr

I would agree with low tire pressure causing bad gas mileage, but only getting 13.5 mpg on the highway points to only one thing running pig rich. A dirty airfilter on a MAF controlled car will have NO EFFECT on gasmileage at a steady state cruise, and will have no other effect than lower power output at max load at high RPM. A MAF controlled car measures the amount of air entering the engine and calculates how much fuel to add. If there is a reduction in air there is a reduction in fuel. Besides at steady state cruise you don't use that much fuel anyway.

Also if you were to use a fuel system cleaner, unless there is an injector stuck open or leaking then that's isn't going to do anything anyway.

Driving style has a lot to do with it, I drove a 07'or 08' Maxima about 400 miles in a little over 3 days and about 300 of that was all highway. I beat the heck out of the car and when I returned it to the rental car place and had calculated the gas mileage (which I do with every car I rent) I got 15.7 mpg.

There has to be more to your bad gas mileage than you drive all highway and it's a 5 speed. You must have some other issues. Does it run rough? Include more details. If you are driving normally and everything is running fine you should be in the mid to high 20's. If you beat the crap out of it then it's probably your driving style and you are going to get bad gas mileage. I have had a TBird SC 5 speed that had very few stock componets on it and could get 26 mpg but when I would beat on it I would drop into the 12's.

More info needed.

Jeff

drumham

I need to know if anybody has used or has the cat back exhaust for the maxima from custommaxima.com. It claims to be built after the Greddy Evo2 exhaust but I don't want to buy it if it sounds like a fart can. I'm not really going for performance which is why I'm thinking of buying it. Help a fella out

J57ltr

By your description I would check the switch for the clutch and any relay in the system. Does your car have an aftermarket alarm?

Jeff

Herofmine

Hey guys i'm just curious about swap 5.5 gen maxima steering wheel to 2009/2010 maxima steering wheel, if anybody knows is it gonna fit or not?

SEMaxima2000

I was wondering if you could hook up a sound system to it?

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

I know others gave you some advice there. You're running around half the mileage you're supposed to be getting, so it's likely that there is more than one thing seriously wrong.

How does the car drive? Sluggish? Does it slow down more quickly than it ought to when you let go of the gas?

Non-electronic stuff:

1. Tire pressure.
2. Check tire wear, are the edges feathered? When was the last time you had an alignment?
3. The biggie: brakes - are your rear brakes dragging, either because of a seized parking brake cable or rear caliper? Are any of your wheels much hotter than the others?

Just a slightly dragging rear brake on one side cost my max 5 mpg. It didn't even feel like it lost that much power, but when it in neutral on a sight hill, it would not roll on its own.

4. Axle CV joints okay? The boots aren't cracked?

----

Electronic:

5. Are you getting a check engine light? Are you sure the bulb is working (as in, does it come on when you turn on the ignition but the engine isn't running?)

6. What are the codes, if any? You can usually get them read for free at an auto parts store.

----


If I had to take a wild guess, I'll bet it's dragging brakes if the CEL light is off as the primary, but not sole cause. But Jeff is right, we'd need more info to help out.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

yes and no

connecting the actual steering wheel would be the easy part...trying to get all the buttons to work is the hard part...would probably require yards of new wires and wire harnesses

J57ltr

One more thing I thought of. I had the line to the fuel pressure regulator break on one of my cars once, and it ran pig rich and I didn't mess with it at first. I did notice that one day it ran real rough then after a few days of driving it got better. Then I noticed that the gas mileage had dropped from about 18 to 13 just driving back and forth to work. I never heard the hissing, and didn't really have time to check, but when I did and found the problem I ended up having to reset the computer (pre OBD 2).

Just something else to check.

Jeff

trent25

I have a question...I have an 03 and recently I have noticed a clicking noise when applying the brakes. The noise appears to be coming from under the shifter (auto trans) and sounds like a relay or something electronic. It is only one click when the brake light goes on and one when it goes off. It's not a huge deal and doesn't even happen every time I drive but just bugs me. Thanks in advance

pepox369

there is about 100 threads talking about this.. search for a minute..

J57ltr

That's the solenoid that allows you to shift the car out of park so you just can't pull the car out of park without pressing the brake first.

Jeff

ColdRain

I have a question for 2001 maxima GLE.

PAST : -
I've always had SES light for long long time, most of the time i got it checked it was O2 sensor codes or lean mixture. Also, I always needed to warm up my car for about 3 minutes to let the rpm hand go down around 900 rpm. Reason behind this is that I learned if I drove my car without being warm/hot enough, it'd give me starting issues next time i'd start my car, I usually needed to press gas pedal for car to start after wards, but this would not happen if car was warm/hot.

Past week : -
Car suddenly died on me, it wouldn't start. I heard it crank up a bit when i was turning keys and pressing gas pedal. Battery was fine, Alternator seemed fine. So car was towed, and mechanic had rebuilt starter for it to work. Since then, tho I've seen my original starting issue happening all the time now, even if car is warmed. Sometime it takes lot of cranking before car starts.

Now:-
I took my car to nissan dealer for diag. and i also had SES (P0505). They said Throttle chamber assembly is needed for around ~1000 bucks worth of costs. This may be an issue since I've cleaned my TB once before, also changed MAF sensor as well about a year ago. But, then they cleared my SES code, and havent seen it come back in 2 days. Although starting issue is still there. What could be the issue here? Is it knock sensor? Is it my starter is just gone(rebuilt didnt help)? or is this IACV motor malfunction like P0505 meant to say. Or is this my ECU(tried taking out but no luck with screws). I also have drive belt squeaking which dealership also mentioned that I needed for about ~200 damage. Please help, I've got some big trips coming and it feels like car will be dead in mid-trip. On side note my Exhaust/muffler seems to be gone(noises), so dealership quoted ~2700 (ouch) for new muffler, tube, pipe etc.

Twokidsandadad

iTrader: (2)

Still a Newbie here... My question is it normally required to replace the wheel hubs when replacing wheel bearings. How would I know if the hubs needed to be replaced. I know that my right front wheel bearing is bad, sounds like a prop plane at highway speeds.........

Thanks
William

J57ltr

More information:

So My Wife calls today on the way to get the car reinspected (took it in at 70 miles after the reset and it wasn't ready yet), well the light came back on. So I took it back to Autozone where my friend is the manager so I would have free use of the meter. So I came up with P0171 (No real suprise) and P0720 (Which is a speed sensor of some type I'll look it up in a while). I also got the fuel trims and other info I could get with the little Accutron meter. Here is what I got.

O2 sensors were not ready yet, but the heater tested OK.

DTC that caused the freeze frame P0171
RPM 1637
Speed 44 mph
Load Value 35.2%
Temp 188F

Short term fuel trim #1= 8.5%
Long term fuel trim #1= 33.5%

Short term fuel trim #2= 8.5%
Long term fuel trim #2= 33.5%

Short term fuel trim #3= -100.6 %
Long term fuel trim #3= -100.6%

Short term fuel trim #4= -100.6%

Fuel System 1 Closed

Fuel System 2 Closed

I guess I missed Long term fuel trim number 4

The thing that gets me is that if the MAF was intermitant it would seem that I would be able to replicate this by tapping the MAF housing with a screwdriver handle and get some kind of odd reading. I have tried this in the past, but not with my meter attached. Now I have tried it with the meter and I get no fluctuation at all. I gave the housing a good whoppin' and the reading is rock solid.

I need some real help on this one please. I have less than 15 days to get this fixed and also need to have time for the system to reset.

Thanks

Jeff

trent25

Thank you Jeff...any way to get it to stop clicking? it has never done that until recently and it's getting pretty annoying (i hate abnormal car noises). also - when I apply the brakes at higher speeds I've noticed it doesn't do it, only when coming to and from a stop.

jowo9

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, mine does that too! At low speeds, i'll press the brake and there's a clicking noise from the shifter area. Why? Is it supposed to make that noise? I get what it's function is.. just don't know if you're SUPPOSED to be able to hear it clicking...

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I hear and feel it to, probably a relay that say's it's ok to shift even though I'm off (the car) or a limit type switch item that activates said actuator.

04flspecv

iTrader: (1)

hey there,

i have a sentra swapped vq35de from a 2003 maxi. when replacing my plugs back in feb, i noticed some oil in the plug tubes. How would i go about replacing my valve cover and the seals so oil won't be found in the plug tubes?

sorry i've never took off a valve cover before.

thanks for the info. can PM me for details/instructions.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Might be a little tighter on your Spec V


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/694281/13

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

hopefully it isnt bad rings like a lot of VQ35s

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'd be worried about that if the VC wasn't cracked, and just oily.

ninja1monkey

Hey guys, I have a Nissan Maxima 2000 SE,
The Bose sub woofer randomly works and then stops working.
Could someone suggest on a solution?
I really don't want to take to the mechanic and have them tell me the sub is bad and to just replace it for like $500.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

dont take an electronics problem to a mechanic

check all the connections...if they are all good, we can post some other things to try

J57ltr

I know my wifes car does it and ther may have been a rubber bumper on the end of the solenoid, but right now it's the least of my worries with this car. I wouldn't worry about it too much, it is just a solenoid that blocks the shifter from moving. Hell if you really don't like it you could just remove it (unless you have kids you leave unattended in the car, but that's another matter all together) and if you are the only one that drives the car nothing to worry about. It's another one of those lawyer things. Most older cars never had it and people that do need it.

A relay and solenoid are kinda the same but a solenoid usually is a device that converts electrical energy to mechanical. It's really just a plunger that when the brake is pressed moved a pin out of the way to allow the car to be shifted.

Jeff

J57ltr

Look in the one of the other threads at the top of this page I think the FAQ or common problems thread. There is info about Bose systems randomly cutting out and the fix. I didn't read it but ran across it looking for information I needed on my Lean problem.

Jeff