Stason

Hey guys! Just wondering if anyone knows from the top of their head, which cylinder is which on 35DE? Like which one is 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc.

6 - 4 - 2
5 - 3 - 1

is that right or?

Thanks.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

No, that's not it.

passenger --> drivers side
. firewall
1 - 3 - 5

2 - 4 - 6
. radiator

LVcityMax

My 2002 nissan maxima has lost most of its power, the engine still sounds good, no leaks, and rides well on the streets at normal speed but if I try going on a hill or if I to punch it, it will struggle to pick up speed... Can anyone please tell me what might be wrong? Hope it's a simple fix. Thanks!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

CEL? Any codes?

Have you pulled the coils and checked the plugs? I would suspect an oil soaked plug tube, for one.

Did it just start doing this one day, or did it get worse over time? If suddenly, did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car immediately prior to it starting?

Have you been keeping up with routing maintenance?

LVcityMax

Thank you so much for the respond. I have done all the required maintenance. Also, I've had the car for almost 5yrs and has ran excellent until now. Last thing done to the car was replacing the radiator and the thermostat, it did start doing it soon after, but I don't see how that could had affected the power. I will replace the plugs and the coils as you suggested and hope that it does fix the problem.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

So...

LVcityMax

As far as I know, it did start doing this one day but it hasn't gotten worst, I will check the plugs and the plugs tubes. The check engine light is not on. Thanks, and I will keep you posted as soon as I check.

scout118

Can you replace or validate that the strut bearing marking out are actually installed correctly with out removing struts? Had them replaced along with struts lca,lower ball joints,inner and outer tie rod ends and stab.links.After alignment when turning right turn it pulls to the right.Same thing on the other side left turn pulls to the left.Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks in advance
Kevin

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Nope, assembly has to be removed.

But the part you're talking about is not called a strut bearing.

So...when you're turning, the car is 'pulling' in the direction you're turning?! I think better explanation is needed here.

ChiTeMax

iTrader: (1)

Will these wheels fit 2003 maxima?

What size tires should go with it? both uniformed and staggard.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18-5X...Q5fAccessories

The wheel match tool they use says it wont fit a 03 maxima se.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Will fit perfect, 5x114 / +35 / 18x8.

I'd go with 245-40-18. What's your suspension set-up like?

ChiTeMax

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

My suspension is totally stock ATM. I do have plans to do Tein SS soon after.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Any thoughts on say an 8.5" and +30 or even 28?

Stason

Opps.. Thanks. Although that makes no sense for me. I sometimes have a CEL of random/multiple misfire. 50% of the time its the CEL for cyl.2 misfire. The one that I "thought" was #2 (actually #5) had lots of oil in it when I was changing spark plugs. No CEL for #5 yet.

Any suggestions? Bad #2 coil? And no, there are no grey dots on the coils.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

A misfire can be caused by a lot of things, not just the coil. Check the plug (seen many bad brand new plugs, and even more cracked during installation), test the coil, test the injector, swap the coil with another cylinder to see if the code follows the coil. From there you go into either electrical or mechanical problems.

ChiTeMax

iTrader: (1)

I don't know much about offset. Or how to determine fitment based on wheels. : (

But the same seller also has 18x8Fr, 18x9Rear

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18X8-...Q5fAccessories

This would be staggered set up obviously. But the offsets are +42Front +42Rear.

Will that work?

Otherwise, I suppose I could just call these people and ask if they have it in 18x8.5 with a +30offset.

arcueda

iTrader: (3)

Car wont turn over..consult tool won't read. Just installed obx headers....any ideas??

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Turn over as in crank or start? Many people seem to have a different idea of what that term means.

Are you saying you've got no power at the DLC, or it just won't read from the ECU?

Have you checked for spark? Fuel?

Checked for power and ground at the ECU? DLC?

scout118

After a right/left hand turn is completed it will not track back to the center,pulling in the direction of the turn until you make a opposite turn and the process starts over again.Vehicle has not been wrecked and the problem did not start until after parts were replaced.
Thanks for any input
Kevin

arcueda

iTrader: (3)

Cranks wont start. Coils/plugs have like 10k scan tool gets power...saying link error..tried starting fluid /brake clean with no success

Kensai

When I remount my tail light housing back into the rear of my car, would it be safe to use RTV Ultra grey to reseal it, instead of the butyl black stuff?

I read this in another post asking a similar question: "As for RTV, I think that wouldn't be thick enough and wouldn't provide a good seal. It may work just fine but I would be concerned with water getting into the housing. Then again, RTV gaskets work wonders, but the distance between the body and the light may be too great in some places for RTV to really work."

Has anyone used RTV to seal their tail lamps?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Okay, so...

arcueda

iTrader: (3)

I don't have a multimeter @ my house....no spark
Security light is on accessory if that means anything

JesseM

I have a Stillen short ram air intake. Any comments on how this affects performance?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The black goo Nissan uses works because it never dries and sticks to the surfaces. If somehow the body or tail light moves/flexes, the black stuff will move with it. I would think that you could put rtv on thick enough to fill the gap but rtv will dry and possibly not stick to the surfaces.

Nelsito65

To avoid any potential confusion with the location of the cylinders, keep in mind that what's shown as being the "FRONT" in the diagram below is the front of the engine, not the front of the car. The front of the engine is towards the passenger side of the car, the side where the belts are located.

CF161FF

I just recently bought a 2001 Maxima SE and my service engine soon light came on today. but when I checked it with my code reader it said there is no trouble codes. Anyone ever heard of this or had it happen to them?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you tried a different code reader? Some can be flaky, at best.

Also, how's your charging system? An unstable power supply can cause no-code CELs.


Security light is on accessory? As in it is lit when the key is in the accessory position? Is this lit, or blinking?

Is the security light on when the key is in the on position?

No multimeter, or a test light, anything? Well, I guess diagnosis will have to wait until you have some of this basic equipment handy, then. Without even being able to check to see if the ECU's got power, you won't be going far in figuring out the no comm link issue. Likely the ECU is either dead or has lost it's power supply/ground, causing both the no start and dead comms.

Have you checked all of the fuses, notably those powering the ECU?

CF161FF

no i haven't i was using a mac tools reader im trying to get it through emissions so i can register it

2000-Maxima-Guy

Hello, I'm basically new to the Forums. My car has nearly 98000 miles on it. Recently, I got a service engine soon light. The two codes: P0302 and P1320. From research, it means 2nd cylinder misfire. At times the car does vibrate upon ignition. Otherwise, no performance issues. No problems reaching 4000 rpm to pass slower vehicles. Gas mileage: 450 highway miles per tank @ 65-70mph.

Oil/filter change every 3K-5K miles, depending on how much long distance highway travel is done. Very few stop-n-go traffic situations.

$250 (tune-up) + $70 (for OEM coil) sound about right in terms of price and required service? Thanks.

2000-Maxima-Guy

How about $145 for a set of 6 ignition coils from 1Aauto.com and/or eBay? Probably sounds too good to be true, but feedback rating is 99.7%.

Anybody have experience with this vendor and these specific parts sold (Part #1AERK00003)? Thanks.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I would go with OEM for the coilpacks.

What's included in the $250 tune up?

Bufflomike

I would make sure you get the correct plugs while they are in there. You have to remove the Intake Manifolds to change coils and plugs so that number for labor is not too outrageous. Fairly easy to do and there are plenty of write-ups here if you want to do it yourself. I would go with OEM Coilpacks but again that is discussed in detail as well.

MOR95MAXSE

Got another question, I changed the oil last weekend (2002 maxima se 6mt) and the drivers side axle about two days before that. Now i've lost about 4mpg. Does anyone know why this happened. These two things are all that i've done to the car.

L36

iTrader: (4)

Is there any difference between rack and pinion used in maxima models with stock 16 inch wheels and the 17 inch?

Also, should i get it new or used off car-part?
Mine giving me the "whine of death" so rather do it soon when the transmission will be off while i change the clutch.
Thanks.

MOR95MAXSE

if it's whining, you probably need a pump not a rack and pinion.

Nelsito65

Can you tell us exactly how you came to that number? Which method did you use to calculate the mpg on your car?

L36

iTrader: (4)

Well, the thing is that it makes a somewhat growling like noise when i turn the wheel all the way either way. The growling noise engages when i nearly hit the turning wall. No matter is the car is stationary or moving.
No leaks anywhere. I guess il try to record a audio of this.

Dj*Bogus*31

Hello everyone. I have a 2000 Maxima Gxe with about 150k miles. It has been out of commision for 2 years. Here is what happened. I noticed some smoke from my hood stoped to take a look. Noticed a radiatior leak. I made it to autozone and bought prestos stop a leak for radiators. It was the pellets crap. I did everything the bottle told me to do. I drove the car and noticed it was fixed. The next morning i was driving to work (70 miles 1 way) and noticed my engine was overheating. I checked when i got to work and sure enough there was another small leak next to one i just fixed. So.... during Lunch i went and bought another stop a leak and did everything exactly the same. The car was good after that. 4 hours later i get off work, the car turns on fine and i drive out to the stop light. The car just dies on me. It would not start or even crank. All the lights worked but it would not turnover. I pushed it into my workplace. To make a long story short, i towed it to a mechanic shop and couldnt figure out what was wrong with my car. My first thought was the starter or ignition switch. Well its been through 5 mechanics and no 1 has been able to fix my problem. Thats what i get for going to part changers and not high tech mechanics. Well right now My mechanic who has the car says its almost like there is no spark to the injectors. Its not a short,or starter, or fuel pump. My indications go to this list of things: crankshaft sensors,cam sensors, iacv sensor, ecm, t.p.s sensor. ANY ideas??? Im stumped and i dont have much money to waste. My wife says Junk that piece of crap, but im not giving up that easily even though its been 2 years. Oh yeah i towed it the Nissan Dealership and told me they would not touch it because it was not put back together the way it was. Basically like it was never touched. Oh and Mechanic says he put the scanner and nothing pops up. Bad Ecm???

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Spark to the injectors? That doesn't even make sense.

Second, stop leak? No. All you're doing with that (especially two bottles. Seriously? No.) is clogging up the cooling system, and creating future issues to deal with. You have a leak, you fix it properly; this crap in a can is bad news.

Now, you say it won't even crank? I'm curious to know what 'injector spark' has to do with a no crank scenario. I would definitely stop going to whatever shop(s) you have been.

How exactly have you ruled out a 'short', the starter, and the fuel pump? Also, everything else you listed has nothing to do with cranking.

Have you checked all of the fuses? Checked connections at the battery and starter? Battery good?

When you turn the key on, do the dash lights come on? What about the CEL?

When you turn the key to start, do you hear a click from the starter, or absolutely nothing? Do the lights dim considerably, or no noticeable difference?

When the key is turned to start, are you getting B+ at the starter signal wire? Are you getting power both into, and out of, the ignition switch?

There are many things to try, and you've given us nothing to start with other than 'it doesn't crank'.