You can get the mount at just about any auto parts store. Since this is what holds the engine in place, it requires a reasonable amount of BS&I (Brute Strength and Ignorance. You have to lift up the engine to take the weight off of the mount so you can change it.

 

^^ A small floor jack is all that is needed to hold the engine up while removing the motor mounts. You can remove a maximum of 2 at a time.


..But I'm not sure what the passenger rear mount is. It's either the passenger mount, or the rear mount. And based on the diagnosis that it's leaking oil, I'm going to assume it's the rear torque mount. Since this is the case, the engine crossmember should be removed altogether, and both F&R mounts should be done at the same time. Might as well since you're doing the labor, eh?

 

Couple of months back bought a 02 Maxima 6 spd. My buddy was selling his old hot shot headers and cattman catback. He had o2 sims replacing the rear o2 sensors on the after market headers. He had sold the car with the Sims on it and now I can not find any. I have looked and searched for sims on different threads to come up empty handed on finding where to buy them anymore. I know of o2simulators.com but they're still on back order and my inspection is up next month. I have found websites on o2 bungs and spark plug defoulers but I don't really want to drill a hole in the exhaust and weld on.

 

Just started having problems with this sensor. Bought my Maxima used, so I have no idea if the original owner had this checked. Looked up the recall notice and doesn't seem to fall under my VIN. The recall notice describes my problem and trouble code. I go to replace the part and guess what I break the damn pigtail harness. I can NOT find this pigtail anywhere so I rigged the pigtail and electrical taped it up. Someone help me find this damn pigtail I've looked everywhere. Camshaft position sensor bank 1 but not sure what the pigtail part # is, since I can't find it anywhere.

 

Hello.
While doing the clutch today, Ive noticed that my whole power steering pump was covered in power steering fluid. Ive inspected the hose and any other connections around it. Its obvious the pump is on its way out as my steering does whine.

Anyway, if anyone has any advice which pump is better, either this, or this or this one?

Second, which AT fluid should be used in the power steering in the 01 maxima? Dexron 2 or 3?

Thanks.

 

Sorry, no opinion on the p/s pump.

Use the Dexron III, it is the current version and is backwards compatible.

But are you certain that it is the pump? Have you had to add oil to the reservoir? I bring up this point because if the valve cover gasket leaks, it would cause the p/s pump to be covered in oil.

 

Well, so far i did not have to top off the reservoir yet, but i do have the steering whine and my rack and pinion is dry.

 

The whine does not guarantee that the pump is bad. Can you tell by the color of the oil? ATF is usually red, so if you wipe off some oil with a paper towel, hopefully you can tell that way.

 

Yes the oil off the pump is red and Ive checked my boots just to be sure, they are not ripped anywhere.

 

i thought the maxima is supposed to used power steering fluid not atf

 

from my understanding isnt red atf thicker than power steering wouldnt it ruin the pump

 

The FSM indicates you should use PS fluid, but you can also use ATF.

 

Hello all I am new to these forums, I am currently looking at getting some new wheels for my 2002 Maxima I am probly going to get some 19inch konig airstrike's I was wondering if anyone know what the maximum off set i could get while still allowing for the wheels to tuck into the fenders a bit, I have a coilover suspension so it is lowerd.

 

I have a 2003 se maxima with standard everything, but is it possible to have the following options installed (heated seats, heated steering wheel, memory seats, traction control switch)?

 

For all 4 of these features, the question is if the wiring is present.

Heated seats - yes, the harness is already present under your seat.

Memory seats - perhaps, if the harness is in your door/under your seat. You'll likely need to buy the memory button module and either buy a door panel or cut your existing one.

I'm not sure about the heated steering wheel or the TCS.

These are the type of frills features that will probably be expensive for you and not give you much return.

Personally I'd concentrate on other things, like stiffening up the suspension, or making the Bose system sound better, or perhaps a little bit of performance.

 

I'd like your opinion on this. I knew that for the 3rd gen maxima, Nissan actually specified Dexron ATF for the power steering. I had never looked at the specs for the 5th gen until you answered jdaddy89. Here is what is in the 2001 FSM, MA-11 -

"Genuine Nissan PSF, Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid, DexronTM III/MerconTM, or equivalent ATF may also be used."

So my question is, when you look at all of the acceptable choices, especially the "Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid", do you think that the "Genuine Nissan PSF" might just be Dexon ATF under another name?

 

It could be, but I think it's actually power steering fluid (which is rather close to ATF anyway), but ATF is completely compatible.

Come to think of it I don't think I've ever looked at a factory filled reservoir to see what the fluid looks/feels like. I bet if you were to buy a bottle of the OE PSF it would be like most any other power steering fluid, clear and a bit lighter in viscosity than ATF.

 

Whats the proper procedure in bleeding the power steering system?
Add fluid, start the car, add more until no more is sucked in. Turn off car, jack up the front and turn the wheels side to side. Start the car again, top it off and repeat til whine is gone?

 

I always fill the reservoir, turn the wheels lock to lock a few times, repeat until it's not taking any more, then start it up and go lock to lock again to check for noise or roughness in the steering. This is with the front end raised up, of course. Makes it a lot easier.

Now that I look at it, that's also the procedure indicated by the FSM.

 

Well i did it side to side while the car is running. I was doing the clutch and i had the infamous whine along with the pump being covered in ATF.

So i replaced the clutch along with the pump because of much better access to the pump while the CV join is out.

Going to jack the car up tomorrow and do the bleed properly.

 

I am looking for replacement motor (torque) mounts for my 2k1... the radiator (front) and firewall (rear) mounts only. I have an auto but want to put in the standard (non-electric) mounts.

Question is: where is best? Most sites are confusing, not sure I'm getting the right thing. Some sites have a separate new mount bracket listed, saying the original doesn't work anymore... is that true?

Any links to good sites or part no's I can look for?

Thanks very much...

 

If you are not looking at Nissan (OEM) manufactured mounts, then I have no idea what awebsite might call it. If you give us the link to a mount, we could look at it and tell you yes or no. The names Nissan uses are:
Front by radiator = Insulator engine mounting, front right-hand
Rear by firewall = Insulator-engine mounting, rear

Manufacturers will change the way something is made or maybe the materials used or various other reasons. The manufacturer than uses a different part number to identify the new version and also stops making the old one. To say the old ones won't work is not accurate. All the versions will fit and work, it's just that you can't buy the old one version any more. They have been sold and no more are available because the manufacturer does not make the old version anymore.

 

This is what I'm looking at right now. It's a kit with all 4 mounts, I'd use only the front and rear mounts since that's what I believe to be bad.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=AYZ062M1ZWK81

But this site suggests I need a new front mount bracket:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3-1624579.html

That site also has the same (appearance-wise) front and rear mounts as is in the picture in the first site, but quite a bit more expensive since I don't get all four in the case that the pass. and driver side are also bad.

Thanks for your help!

OH YES... I know these are probably not the best performance-wise. But I'm not interested in urethane solid mounts like the ES. Nor electric ones that go bad and fry the ECU (or so I'm told) so I'll live with the extra vibration at idle. If they last another 60-70K miles I'll be peachy fine!

 

The 2nd link is the bracket that bolts on to the transmission and then the motor mount attaches to that. That bracket is on the driver's side of the car. Unless the old one is damaged, you don't need that part.

Since you are going to buy all 4 mounts, what they are called no longer matters. And since no 2 mounts are made the same way, you can't get the positions mixed up. Get the set of 4 and you will be all set to crawl under the car and get dirty.

 

Another thing.
Since Ive replaced the clutch recently, it feels like when i press the clutch pedal all the way while accelerating hard, the clutch disk seems to be touching the pressure plate fingers, due to the weird vibration i get on the pedal.

Is this normal for a new clutch?

 

Thanks a lot... it wasn't just the names that lead to confusion. I know Nissan frequently makes changes mid-run of a model and I had no idea if I"m getting something that won't work on my car. Skimming other sites (including Courtesy Nissan's) certainly led me to believe that may be a possibility. Too, pictures could be similar but movement of a mounting hole just a few thousanths in something like a motor mount would make an already difficult install impossible.

 

I test drove a 2000 Maxima yesterdy...one owner car, 185K, in really good shape. I absolutely loved the car, but I did notice one problem with it. While driving on the highway, or around town, it sounded great, but when I would come to a stop light, the idle was quite rough, almost like it was running on 5 cylinders. The RPM's dropped 1 or two hundered while it was idling rough as well. You could feel a substantial vibration in the car when it was doing this. After doing some research on this, it seems the coil packs are a possibility. However, there was no "check engine" light on. Will there be a code that can be read to figure out what the issue is even though the check engine light was not on? Other than this issue, the car had excellent power, the engine sounded great.

 

One thing about the SES light: Make sure that it comes on when you switch the key to the "ON" position, without starting the car. That will tell if the light is working or not (or if the bulb has been removed to prevent potential buyers from seeing it). You can always scan the car and it will tell you if it has an active or pending code(s).

 

If you can test drive the car again, drive to an auto parts store such as autozone and ask them to check the codes. As long as you are not in California where it has been made illegal to do, they will connect an OBD II reader to the car and tell you the codes at no charge.

 

I will definately check for the SES light with the key in the "on" position, good tip. And I'll definately check for the code at an autozone. Are the coil packs on the back bank hard to get at?

 

Where would be a good place to run the power wire for an amp? I don't want to drill any holes and I would rather not go through one of my wheel wells, there isn't one of those rubber things somewhere on the passenger side?

 

Changing plugs on my 2k1 this weekend and the boot of one ignition coil separated and stayed behind on the plug. I tried to pull it out with an o-ring hook but it seems mostly to want to come apart. So, being afraid I'd never get all of it out, I just put the coil back in.

With 5 new NGK iridiums and one old platinum opened up to 55 (where the rest were, at least) it's running OK for now.

Question is: has anyone had this occur? It is in the worse possible position: right bank (next to the fire wall), last plug (driver end).

What can I do to fix this without taking the valve cover off?

Thanks a bunch!

 

so im just wondering what are the *mods* or things to do to a 01 maxima that most would consider a must. Or if you dont have any mods that *need* to be done what about like the top 3... exhaust, rims, styling, cpu, engine... whatever it is I'd like to know to help make my decision on what car to buy. thanks and opinions are welcome

 

not familiar with maximas but im sure it has a firewall you can go thro or a rubber grommet. The other wires have to get inside somehow right? just take a look it wont be hard

 

could be a vacuum leak. use soapy water and check for a leak only take a minute

 

Having gone though many, many SES light issues I can tell you that yes, there may be a pending code. Any good code reader should read pending codes.

The owner could have recently reset codes so the light is out. It can take several drive cycles before the ECU determines there's a fault. BUT, a good code reader will tell you that the car hasn't completed all necessary drive cycles too!

IMO, anyone buying a used car should take a code reader along and read codes as part of the test drive.

 

i have a 2001 maxima se 5 speed. i need to replace the drivers side carrier bearing. have anyone done this? is it easy does the trans have to come out?

thanks

 

hi i need help finding a maxima se manual? i am new to maximas, can someone help me? i am from chicago

 

Try looking in our parts for sale thread. AND please don't be posting the same thing in 2 forums, we don't like that.

http://forums.maxima.org/parts-sale-wanted-41/

 

look in the parts for sale for a car?
and thanks, sorry im new lol wont happen again
is there anywhere for noobs like me to post?