Search feature not working dude.....

 

Really? Works fine for me

http://www.google.com/search?client=...utf-8&oe=utf-8
http://www.google.com/search?client=...utf-8&oe=utf-8

...etc

 

We are talking about the search feature in the forums, not google.......

 

Searching is searching, there's no need to restrict yourself to the integrated search feature. Doing so is just limiting your possible results, and in cases like these, an excuse to not search.

Did you look at the links I provided?

 

I didn't ask the original question....now his question is lost in amongst our own babble.....

 

Cheapest place to get a mass air sensor?

 

Look ~20 posts back.

 

I have a 2000 Maxima GLE. I need the 2 14mm and the center 17 mm torque spec for the rear struts. Is it 20ft lbs for the top hat (17mm) and 15 ft lbs for the 2 14 mm side bolts?

Thanks

Kenfro

 

See the link below (that's the suspension section of the FSM) and go to page SU-23; it gives you a range of torque for the rear shocks:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2000.5_Maxima/su.pdf

 

I have a 2001 SE 5spd with 200,000 miles. Owned since new. Have a 303 error code (misfire on #3). Replaced the MAF because I knew the old one was funky. Car runs better, but is still not right. Misfire at low rpm/load. Worse when cold.

The instructions that came with the new MAF (part# 22680-2Y001) say I need to have the ecu reflashed. Is that right?

Where should I look next? O2 sensor? Coil?

Thanks,
Mike R

 

I have a 2001 SE 5spd with 200,000 miles. Owned since new. Have a 303 error code (misfire on #3). Replaced the MAF because I knew the old one was funky. Car runs better, but is still not right. Misfire at low rpm/load. Worse when cold.

The instructions that came with the new MAF (part# 22680-2Y001) say I need to have the ecu reflashed. Is that right?

Where should I look next? O2 sensor? Coil?

Thanks,
Mike R

 

I have this really wierd problem with my 2000 and havent found someone who can pinpoint it yet...im not that car literate yet but getting there...well my car dont want to start when my engine is cold. it turns over fine but after that it will die out if i dont put some gas on it. i dont like revving my engine when its cold so i try and take it light...sometimes i have to start it ten times and giving it a little gas each time in between in order for the engine to warm up. and sometimes when i start about the 3rd or 4th time into this it starts up real hard and the rpm shoots up. once my car is warmed up though it runs like a champ. but it really dont sound good when i am trying to warm it up. sometimes you hear this sputter noise in the engine like its trying to get gas in it. and you can feel the whole car shake then bog out!!! HELP PLEASE!!!!

 

If that's the only code you got, I would replace the coil. No need for a ECU reflash.

 

I'm sure you checked your spark plugs by now, so now you should try and replace your engine coolant temp sensor. If these things go bad, your car will try to run rich.

 

Recently had a brake job done on our 03 Maxima SE, rotors were re-surfaced and new OEM pads all around. Fast forward to today and when you are slowly braking from 35+ mph, and I mean slowly pressing the brake pedal, I hear a slight ticking/clicking/annoying sound coming from the front left wheel. If you continue to brake and press down some more, the sound is gone. And braking moderately, also there is no clicking noise emitted.

What can be wrong? I plan on taking the car back to the shop once I start school again.

 

If a shop did your brake job I will take it back to that shop immediately and address to them. The sooner the better.

 

hello everyone,

my 2000 maxima gle kept stalling at stop lights so i took it to the dealer for a full check up. the mechanic told me that when he ran the electronic test he wasnt getting any signal from any of the coils (or something along those lines) and suggested that i replace ALL coils and spark plugs while i am at it. Anyways the dealer quote was $900-1000 which is a bit steep for me right now. Was wondering, can I buy the parts from somewhere else (if so could you please direct me?) and maybe have a non-dealer mechanic install the coils and plugs for me and maybe i shave a $100 or two?

 

Really don't have time to do alot of reading, so forgive me but whenever the Maf is change on an 01 maxima does the computer need tobe flashed or can it be reset by taking the battery post off?

 

They are on crack. Tell them to give you a good logical explanation on how all 6 coils can go bad at once? you can test the coils yourself here:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ow-w-pics.html

What were the troublecodes? A Autozone type store can retrieve them for free.

 

No.

 

Well I cleared the original code, I posted it a bit back, dont think it had to do with the coils at all. but when i brought it to the dealer they said the reason they have to replace the coils is because they cant get any codes and if i dont fix it, it would screw up the electrical system. i dont know if it was a scare tactic to get me to spend a grand or what but the original code i got was p0174 "system too lean, bank 2"

 

I tried to do the research and tried to solve this problem my self. I changed all the sparkplugs for like 50, i just bought and changed all 6 coils for 200 and the code is still there. I dont know what to do. Should i just pay to get diagnostic done? can it really pin point the problem to its source? HELP cause iits really making me hate ma car, making me want to get rid of it and i love my car!!!

 

Besides having the code, what symptoms are you having with your car? and, where did you buy ALL coils for $200? Were they brand new?

 

Besides having the code, what symptoms are you having with your car? and, where did you buy ALL coils for $200? Were they brand new?

i can feel the acceleration laggin when i floor it, i bought coils from amazon, the were suppose to be brand new. i get about 225 miles from full tank of premium. i can just tell its not running the way its suppose to. btw it has 133k miles if anyone wanted to know.

 

I asked about the coil packs because, at around $30 each, they seem pretty cheap so I wasn't sure if you've got them from some unknown or shady source. I got mine from Amazon and Autozone about a year ago. 225 miles per tank is pretty low (I get about 340), so something is definitely wrong there. A lot of factors contribute to low mileage. You don't mention if you're getting a misfire so I'm not sure what exactly made you change all the spark plugs and coils. By the way, are those spark plugs NGK? Also check the new coils to see if they have a gray dot indicating that they are the updated version. On some aftermarket coils that dot is hidden by a silver sticker or something. If your only symptom is the acceleration issue a bad MAF could be responsible for it.

 

So all the anti-squeal clips were there, no real rust issues with them. However the tech said there is slight rust build-up on the edge of the rotors, (they only have 19K on them, and definitely not an aggressive braker my mom is like myself).

He took everything apart and put some of the mentioned paste. Took a for a spin around the block and right back into the garage it went. Second time around I heard a little grinder action and he took it out again. This time he parked it in front.

So apparently the pads haven't seated properly the first time around and the pad was a little glazed. He also took some of the rust build-up off the rotors and said to take it easy for the next couple of days. The annoying clicking is definitely gone (wasn't too hard on the brakes, but the noise only happened with slight pedal action anyway) and pedal feel is firmer, we have noticed it being a little softer after the brake job, but now it's back as it was before.

So how does a pad glaze? Since the brake job, I will admit that I took the car a couple times to school and around town, but I definitely don't brake hard in my mom's car like I do in my Saab 9-2X.

 

yes i got the coils from amazon, and code p1320 is some sort of misfiring code. the car is not studdering as if its really misfiring. The real issue is the low mpg and the bad accelerration. so should i get a diagnostic done, is it gona locate the real problem because i dont wana waste more money on something that mite not fix the problem.fyi i got sparkplugs changed at pep boys so am not sure what kind they put in there, i assume theyd put in the right kind.

 

I realize you left this comment about 3 yrs ago, but I can't find where you posted yr findings on yr Maxima engine. My 2002 SE just started burning oil and I'm not sure which path to take with it...

 

I've been searching this alllll day! I've found one person who may have the same prob. but haven't heard from them. So, sorry if this is a repeat question...

2002 SE 78,000 miles. Just started burning oil, def not leaking oil. Lost 1/2 qt. in 3 wks & I don't drive if very far but I do drive every day. There is blue smoke, though it is not extreme. It starts/runs fine & it sounds great. I've taken it to 2 trusted mechanics, one says new engine, the second says just keep giving it oil & see where it goes. I am aware of the "Pre-cat" issue but I've also seen plenty of posts where the owner just fed it oil and "all was well." Advice? Suggestions? Anything? Please help me save my maxima!

 

If you are getting blue smoke, that means oil is getting burned in the cylinders....not very good.

 

Ok, so I'm assuming it is the pre-cat issue. If I replace the engine, is there anyway I can know this same issue won't occur again?

I do plan on contacting Nissan about this.

 

I don't know if there is any way you can know if the issue won't come back again, but if you are still under warranty, and it looks like you are on the borderline if it is 80k miles/8 yrs, by all means contact Nissan before it's too late, and take it from there.

 

Is the 80k/8yr. a standard warranty for Nissan or is it just an option for the initial owner? I just want to know my rights.

Thank you for yr help guys!

 

I wouldn't know for sure as I am not an original owner either. That warranty could be for just specific part(s) and/or component(s) on the car (such as catalytic, transmission, etc.), in addition to the originial bumper to bumper coverage. I'm not sure where I've seen that number.
EDIT: A lot of the same type of engine that is in your car are notorious for developing oil consumption. I don't know how much it can be done, but from what I've read, some owners just live with that and just keep a sharp eye on the oil level.

 

8 years/80k miles is a federal thing:

 

^^Thank you.
So the 8k miles/8 yrs warranty is for some emission components only.

 

I have an '01 SE 5-speed 142K. Every two years (when the emissions test rolls around) I need to get the check engine light off by replacing an O2 sensor, MAF sensor, Cat, or wiring harness. Kind of expensive for a $20 test. Each time I fix one of these, the light stays off for anywhere between 5 miles and 1000 miles - but I can guarantee it will come on before 1K.

In the latest episode, I got the MAF replaced at the beginning of December. Within a week, it is now throwing a Cat code. I brought it to a performance garage (I am by no means a car guy - so please bear with me) and they said they are getting good readings off the Cat and the O2 sensor. They say the problem is a design flaw - Cat and O2 are too close, which is giving false reading to the car which is throwing the 'check engine' light. They also said this is a common problem with this car.

Well, it has been a VERY common problem with MY car, but I don't see any posts here saying it's a design flaw (which I would have expected). On the other hand, it doesn't seem normal that I should be blowing sensors all throughout the life of this car.

Any info to help me find the truth behind what may be going on is greatly appreciated.

 

Are you getting the exact same code over and over again? In either case, we need to know exactly which code(s) you are getting in order to help you troubleshoot it. Also, you mentioned that a Cat was replaced but you car has more than one, which one was it?

 

I apologize for the lack of info - This has been a life-long problem with the car, so I do not have the codes from each of the repairs. Each of the O2 and MAF sensor replacements have come after a mechanic has said the specific sensor was indicating it was bad. Therefore, I would have to assume that the code they are getting has not been the same, but has bounced around. I have not read any of the codes myself. As for the Cat - he said the forward Cat - I don't know if that is specific enough for you or not.

I'm guessing by your answer that there is (unfortunately) no known flaw in this system that would cause this type of behavior. It seems unreasonable to have had to replace 6 O2 sensors, a MAF sensor, and a wiring harness over 8 years...

 

I've noticed over the last couple of months, whenever my sons car sits for a couple of days or so, there is a small oil leak on the driveway. About 4-5 inches in diameter. Check the oil, and while it may be low, it is not horrendously low. Don't see leak at other times. Any ideas? Saw some postings about a TC cover. Possibly on this? Seems as if it is right around the area of where the oil filter screws in. When I changed the filter though, I did not see anything out of the ordinary. Any help or ideas appreciated.

Thanks