5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ias-stuff.html
'00 GLE
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 97
Could also be a rusted-out front lower cross-frame member. This is a notorious problem with 4th and 5th gens.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2
I have a question but I don't have the 15 posts to create a thread. I have read quite a bit about the process of replacing the struts in a 5.5 gen on here and a couple of other sites. All of the shops near me want 400 in labor to do all four so I am going to tackle it myself.
I have the following parts in my cart on Amazon :
Monroe 71462
Monroe 71461
Monroe 71327 (Quantity 2, Rear)
Moog K90467, Rear Bellow and Bump - Quantity 2
Moog K90463, Front Bellow and Bump - Quantity 2
Moog K90655 Strut Mounts - Quantity 2
I also have a pair of Moog 81079 rear springs on the way, I have the rear end sag and bottoming out that seems to indicate that they need replaced.
Am I missing anything here? Am I correct that I won't need any type of new mount on the rear?
Besides basic hand tools and a set of rental spring compressors do I need anything else before I tackle this?
Thanks.
I have the following parts in my cart on Amazon :
Monroe 71462
Monroe 71461
Monroe 71327 (Quantity 2, Rear)
Moog K90467, Rear Bellow and Bump - Quantity 2
Moog K90463, Front Bellow and Bump - Quantity 2
Moog K90655 Strut Mounts - Quantity 2
I also have a pair of Moog 81079 rear springs on the way, I have the rear end sag and bottoming out that seems to indicate that they need replaced.
Am I missing anything here? Am I correct that I won't need any type of new mount on the rear?
Besides basic hand tools and a set of rental spring compressors do I need anything else before I tackle this?
Thanks.
Why not KYB instead of Monroe?
Get OEM boots instead of Moog.
No rear mounts needed. Get a breaker bar. Electric impact will help tremendously if you don't have air.
Where are you located? My price is nowhere near what you're getting quoted. PM me.
Get OEM boots instead of Moog.
No rear mounts needed. Get a breaker bar. Electric impact will help tremendously if you don't have air.
Where are you located? My price is nowhere near what you're getting quoted. PM me.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2
Are the factory boots that much better? The fronts are the same price, but the rears are double. I was checking courtesy parts, anywhere else I should check for them?
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 18
From: VA
Thanks. I ordered new coils. When I pulled the two with the lowest reading's the car didn't really stall that much, when I pulled another one it almost stalled. I'm hoping that those two are bad/going bad.
I'll update this post when I change them.
I'll update this post when I change them.
I'm in Memphis. Monroes mostly for price, and all I do is interstate commute in my car and thought they would give me a softer ride.
Are the factory boots that much better? The fronts are the same price, but the rears are double. I was checking courtesy parts, anywhere else I should check for them?
Are the factory boots that much better? The fronts are the same price, but the rears are double. I was checking courtesy parts, anywhere else I should check for them?
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 18
From: VA
Here's something interesting with regards to my SES light, P1320/P0300 codes issue, one that I hope someone can explain...
One thing that I didn't mention was there are a couple of holes in the exhaust pipe of the muffler section. The holes are near the flange that connects to the middle resonator section.
So... when I patch these holes up the SES light flickers, misfires and engine shudders noticeably. Not to mention a racket coming out the rear end. Also, the misfiring conditions don't go away.
However, when I remove the exhaust tape Iie. open the holes again) and misfiring condition is not as severe, the SES light does not flicker, the rear end racket is a lot less and eventually the engine misfires subsides enough that you can't tell if it is misfiring to the point that it's running smooth. The only downside is a very throaty / sporty exhaust note. The smell of gas is not as bad either as when the SES light is flashing.
WEIRD. huh!!! Could my muffler be clogged (or something related) that is causing a backfire (or whatever it's called) type of condition ???
One thing that I didn't mention was there are a couple of holes in the exhaust pipe of the muffler section. The holes are near the flange that connects to the middle resonator section.
So... when I patch these holes up the SES light flickers, misfires and engine shudders noticeably. Not to mention a racket coming out the rear end. Also, the misfiring conditions don't go away.
However, when I remove the exhaust tape Iie. open the holes again) and misfiring condition is not as severe, the SES light does not flicker, the rear end racket is a lot less and eventually the engine misfires subsides enough that you can't tell if it is misfiring to the point that it's running smooth. The only downside is a very throaty / sporty exhaust note. The smell of gas is not as bad either as when the SES light is flashing.
WEIRD. huh!!! Could my muffler be clogged (or something related) that is causing a backfire (or whatever it's called) type of condition ???
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 261
From: Lubbock, Texas
This is a great site. All of you are very helpful.
I was wondering if anyone could explain to me how to remove the automatic shifter housing on a 2000 Maxima GLE to replace the bulb with an LED? I've seen some posts on the forms regarding it, but none of them were really able to explain it well enough.
Any help would be appreciated!
I was wondering if anyone could explain to me how to remove the automatic shifter housing on a 2000 Maxima GLE to replace the bulb with an LED? I've seen some posts on the forms regarding it, but none of them were really able to explain it well enough.
Any help would be appreciated!
I'm in Memphis. Monroes mostly for price, and all I do is interstate commute in my car and thought they would give me a softer ride.
Are the factory boots that much better? The fronts are the same price, but the rears are double. I was checking courtesy parts, anywhere else I should check for them?
Are the factory boots that much better? The fronts are the same price, but the rears are double. I was checking courtesy parts, anywhere else I should check for them?
From what I remember, they will last longer, I bought 4 new ones from my local stealership when I installed my Illuminas, just because I needed them ASAP. Try giving Dave B a call. (888-254-6060 ask for Dave Burnette) He works for South Point Nissan in Texas, and gives pretty good rates to us maxima.org people.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
hi, im new to this so i would appreciate the help. i have a 2003 maxima and i wanna make it look something like this 
. ill get pictures of my car soon. i was thinking of getting blacked out tail lights and getting a charcoal paint job. good and cheap places to buy the blacked out tail lights? im also new to cars so i dont know much about cars so help would be appreciated. thanks
. ill get pictures of my car soon. i was thinking of getting blacked out tail lights and getting a charcoal paint job. good and cheap places to buy the blacked out tail lights? im also new to cars so i dont know much about cars so help would be appreciated. thanks
You have a Maxima yet you're posting pics of an Altima...
First, welcome. Second, kudos for asking questions.
You cannot open the tail lights to tint them from the inside. The only thing you can do is tint them on the outside using tint film or spray-on tint. Or you can just buy SE tails and swap them in.
As for the paint job, don't bother. For a PROPER job you're going to spend as much as the car is worth, money you'll never see back.
First, welcome. Second, kudos for asking questions.
You cannot open the tail lights to tint them from the inside. The only thing you can do is tint them on the outside using tint film or spray-on tint. Or you can just buy SE tails and swap them in.
As for the paint job, don't bother. For a PROPER job you're going to spend as much as the car is worth, money you'll never see back.
I'm in Memphis. Monroes mostly for price, and all I do is interstate commute in my car and thought they would give me a softer ride.
Are the factory boots that much better? The fronts are the same price, but the rears are double. I was checking courtesy parts, anywhere else I should check for them?
Are the factory boots that much better? The fronts are the same price, but the rears are double. I was checking courtesy parts, anywhere else I should check for them?
KYB GR-2 shocks or Tokico HP Blues will give you the OEM ride you're looking for. Cost should be the same as the Monroes, unless you're dealing with a shop that exculsively deals with Monroes. Most shops will push Monroe simply because they're easier to get.
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Slip/TCS lights
so here is a list of problems in the order they happened that numerous different mechanics have tried fixing.
the service engine soon light turned on.... guy thought it was the air flow sensor ...replaced that drove from New York to Tennessee and then it turns back on and has stayed on for about 2 years now...
on 8/9/11 i had to replace my battery at FIRESTONE because i had to get a boost every time i started my car....
2 months later (this week) out of nowhere my slip and tcs lights turned on.. i thought this was because of the very very worn front tires so i replaced my two front tires (21555R16) for newer tires however their size was 21560R16. after the change those lights turned off thinking all is over (service engine soon light is still on but thats been on for 2 years)
then once that goes off the battery and Break lights turned on...... after 2 days my car died and i took it back to FIRESTONE after a boost to have em check it out. They claimed it was my alternator so 500$ later all the lights i have been having problems with turned off thinking all my problems are fixed (no more slip/tsc/bat/and break lights)
2 days later my battery and break lights turned back on for 15 minutes and then turned off. they have stayed off now for about 24hrs but the slip and tsc lights are back on along with the service engine soon light
my questions come down to this
why are my service engine soon/slip/tsc lights back on and why did the battery and break lights turns back on and turn off at the same time even after replacing alternator AND battery
any help will be very appreciated. im tired of being taken advantage of at all these BS car shops
the service engine soon light turned on.... guy thought it was the air flow sensor ...replaced that drove from New York to Tennessee and then it turns back on and has stayed on for about 2 years now...
on 8/9/11 i had to replace my battery at FIRESTONE because i had to get a boost every time i started my car....
2 months later (this week) out of nowhere my slip and tcs lights turned on.. i thought this was because of the very very worn front tires so i replaced my two front tires (21555R16) for newer tires however their size was 21560R16. after the change those lights turned off thinking all is over (service engine soon light is still on but thats been on for 2 years)
then once that goes off the battery and Break lights turned on...... after 2 days my car died and i took it back to FIRESTONE after a boost to have em check it out. They claimed it was my alternator so 500$ later all the lights i have been having problems with turned off thinking all my problems are fixed (no more slip/tsc/bat/and break lights)
2 days later my battery and break lights turned back on for 15 minutes and then turned off. they have stayed off now for about 24hrs but the slip and tsc lights are back on along with the service engine soon light
my questions come down to this
why are my service engine soon/slip/tsc lights back on and why did the battery and break lights turns back on and turn off at the same time even after replacing alternator AND battery
any help will be very appreciated. im tired of being taken advantage of at all these BS car shops
so here is a list of problems in the order they happened that numerous different mechanics have tried fixing.
the service engine soon light turned on.... guy thought it was the air flow sensor ...replaced that drove from New York to Tennessee and then it turns back on and has stayed on for about 2 years now...
on 8/9/11 i had to replace my battery at FIRESTONE because i had to get a boost every time i started my car....
2 months later (this week) out of nowhere my slip and tcs lights turned on.. i thought this was because of the very very worn front tires so i replaced my two front tires (21555R16) for newer tires however their size was 21560R16. after the change those lights turned off thinking all is over (service engine soon light is still on but thats been on for 2 years)
then once that goes off the battery and Break lights turned on...... after 2 days my car died and i took it back to FIRESTONE after a boost to have em check it out. They claimed it was my alternator so 500$ later all the lights i have been having problems with turned off thinking all my problems are fixed (no more slip/tsc/bat/and break lights)
2 days later my battery and break lights turned back on for 15 minutes and then turned off. they have stayed off now for about 24hrs but the slip and tsc lights are back on along with the service engine soon light
my questions come down to this
why are my service engine soon/slip/tsc lights back on and why did the battery and break lights turns back on and turn off at the same time even after replacing alternator AND battery
any help will be very appreciated. im tired of being taken advantage of at all these BS car shops
the service engine soon light turned on.... guy thought it was the air flow sensor ...replaced that drove from New York to Tennessee and then it turns back on and has stayed on for about 2 years now...
on 8/9/11 i had to replace my battery at FIRESTONE because i had to get a boost every time i started my car....
2 months later (this week) out of nowhere my slip and tcs lights turned on.. i thought this was because of the very very worn front tires so i replaced my two front tires (21555R16) for newer tires however their size was 21560R16. after the change those lights turned off thinking all is over (service engine soon light is still on but thats been on for 2 years)
then once that goes off the battery and Break lights turned on...... after 2 days my car died and i took it back to FIRESTONE after a boost to have em check it out. They claimed it was my alternator so 500$ later all the lights i have been having problems with turned off thinking all my problems are fixed (no more slip/tsc/bat/and break lights)
2 days later my battery and break lights turned back on for 15 minutes and then turned off. they have stayed off now for about 24hrs but the slip and tsc lights are back on along with the service engine soon light
my questions come down to this
why are my service engine soon/slip/tsc lights back on and why did the battery and break lights turns back on and turn off at the same time even after replacing alternator AND battery
any help will be very appreciated. im tired of being taken advantage of at all these BS car shops
As for your Firestone experience, I hope your butt hole has healed. A rebuilt alternator costs around $150 - $175, so anything over $300 is highway robbery. Tire stores, not just Firestone, are not places to take you car to for anything other than tires.
The brake & bat lights flashing could be an indication that the rebuilt alternator that was installed will be crapping out on you. If you take it back to Firestone and the lights are off, they probably won't find anything wrong.
If you have a voltmeter (or know somebody that does), measure the voltage on the battery after you start the car. The voltage should read between 14.1 and 14.7. If its not in that range, the alternator has a problem.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
Intake Valve Timing
I'm getting the code for IVT Bank 1. I replaced the sensor, no luck. The dealership tells me I need the solenoid for bank 1. When I went to order the part, the local auto parts store asked me if it's left or right. I thought bank 1 was on the rear of the engine (firewall side). Naturally, I thought I would be ordering either the front or rear, not left or right...
Does anyone have a part number or know if I need the left or right one?
Does anyone have a part number or know if I need the left or right one?
I'm getting the code for IVT Bank 1. I replaced the sensor, no luck. The dealership tells me I need the solenoid for bank 1. When I went to order the part, the local auto parts store asked me if it's left or right. I thought bank 1 was on the rear of the engine (firewall side). Naturally, I thought I would be ordering either the front or rear, not left or right...
Does anyone have a part number or know if I need the left or right one?
Does anyone have a part number or know if I need the left or right one?
Bank 1: http://www.courtesyparts.com/23796a-...957_1958_1967&
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
I ACCIDENTLY TOOK OFF THE ECM WIRE OFF THEN I PUT IT BACK IN WHEN I PUT IT BACKON I TRIED TO TURN ON MY CAR BUT IT TRYS BUT IT WONT START I NEED HELP PLEASE THIS IS THE ONLY CAR THAT HELPS ME TAKE MY FIANCE TO WORK ... AND IAM OUT OF WORK... AND WE CANT AFFORD A NEW CAR ..
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
I NEED HELP PLEASE.. I NEED TO FIX MY 2000 NISSAN MAXIMA... I ACCIDENTLY TOOK OFF THE ECM WIRE OFF THEN I PUT IT BACK IN WHEN I PUT IT BACKON I TRIED TO TURN ON MY CAR BUT IT TRYS BUT IT WONT START I NEED HELP PLEASE THIS IS THE ONLY CAR THAT HELPS ME TAKE MY FIANCE TO WORK ... AND IAM OUT OF WORK... CUZ I DO CATERING BUT THINGS ARE EXTREMELY SLOW RIGHT NOW AND WITHOUT THE CAR IF THERE IS WORK I CANT WORK ... AND WE CANT AFFORD A NEW CAR ..
I ACCIDENTLY TOOK OFF THE ECM WIRE OFF THEN I PUT IT BACK IN WHEN I PUT IT BACKON I TRIED TO TURN ON MY CAR BUT IT TRYS BUT IT WONT START I NEED HELP PLEASE THIS IS THE ONLY CAR THAT HELPS ME TAKE MY FIANCE TO WORK ... AND IAM OUT OF WORK... AND WE CANT AFFORD A NEW CAR ..
I NEED HELP PLEASE.. I NEED TO FIX MY 2000 NISSAN MAXIMA... I ACCIDENTLY TOOK OFF THE ECM WIRE OFF THEN I PUT IT BACK IN WHEN I PUT IT BACKON I TRIED TO TURN ON MY CAR BUT IT TRYS BUT IT WONT START I NEED HELP PLEASE THIS IS THE ONLY CAR THAT HELPS ME TAKE MY FIANCE TO WORK ... AND IAM OUT OF WORK... CUZ I DO CATERING BUT THINGS ARE EXTREMELY SLOW RIGHT NOW AND WITHOUT THE CAR IF THERE IS WORK I CANT WORK ... AND WE CANT AFFORD A NEW CAR ..
If you took the ECM connection off with the battery in the car still connected, that's very bad.
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Inspect ECU connections. Considering the time of day you posted this you may have not been thinking clearly, or you may have been messing with the car all night. Look for bent pins, mashed clips in the connector, and try to straighten them as best as you can.
3. Connect the ecu cable. Straight on. Gently - they don't like force.
4. connect battery
5. try to start car. Does it turn over? yes? does not start? Are the dash lights on?
6. If yes, check for blown fuses and fusible links in the fuse box.
7. If no, your battery and/or starter are either broken from cranking them until 0430 in the morning or whatever it is you were trying to fix at the time. Charge battery. If it cranks but does not start see item #6.
Last resort: Pull ECU. Open it up, look for burned things, look for broken solder connections, especially around the ECU connector - if you mash them too hard, they like to break. Either get a new ECU from a wrecker or send it to one of the ECU rebuilders listed elsewhere on this forum. You'll need a dealer to code in your keys for the thing afterwards.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
Let's start by finding out why the SES (Service Engine Soon) light is on. Drive the car to an auto parts store and ask them to check the codes for you. Most auto stores will do this at no charge. Except California, where it is illegal to do this. Come back here and let us know.
As for your Firestone experience, I hope your butt hole has healed. A rebuilt alternator costs around $150 - $175, so anything over $300 is highway robbery. Tire stores, not just Firestone, are not places to take you car to for anything other than tires.
The brake & bat lights flashing could be an indication that the rebuilt alternator that was installed will be crapping out on you. If you take it back to Firestone and the lights are off, they probably won't find anything wrong.
If you have a voltmeter (or know somebody that does), measure the voltage on the battery after you start the car. The voltage should read between 14.1 and 14.7. If its not in that range, the alternator has a problem.
As for your Firestone experience, I hope your butt hole has healed. A rebuilt alternator costs around $150 - $175, so anything over $300 is highway robbery. Tire stores, not just Firestone, are not places to take you car to for anything other than tires.
The brake & bat lights flashing could be an indication that the rebuilt alternator that was installed will be crapping out on you. If you take it back to Firestone and the lights are off, they probably won't find anything wrong.
If you have a voltmeter (or know somebody that does), measure the voltage on the battery after you start the car. The voltage should read between 14.1 and 14.7. If its not in that range, the alternator has a problem.
thanks for the heads up. when i left the shop he showed me test results for b4 and after
b4 it was charging at 6.3 volts not the alt is at 14.3 however the battery/break lights keep turning on and off at random point through out my drive
btw if the slip and tsc off lights come on at the same time what would that mean?
thanks for the heads up. when i left the shop he showed me test results for b4 and after
b4 it was charging at 6.3 volts not the alt is at 14.3 however the battery/break lights keep turning on and off at random point through out my drive
btw if the slip and tsc off lights come on at the same time what would that mean?
b4 it was charging at 6.3 volts not the alt is at 14.3 however the battery/break lights keep turning on and off at random point through out my drive
btw if the slip and tsc off lights come on at the same time what would that mean?
Since you had that replaced, and we'd like to think the replacement works, this leaves some other possibilities, in order of likelihood:
- other electrical: connections to battery, ground, or battery is bad too
- a wheel rotation sensor isn't working or the wire is broken
- there is an ECU or harness problem
I am going to agree with the other poster though and say your alternator is still suspect. It happened to be working when the shop looked at it. Take it there with when the lights are on, or better yet, have a voltmeter with you and check your voltage when the lights do come on.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
Please Help
Brake light and battery light keeps flickering on and of. Changed alternator, alternator belt, new battery. When the belt was changed the flicker stopped for a few days, now it started flickering again. I noticed when I accelerate, it happens. Can someone please help me figure out whats wrong?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6
From: Knoxville TN
Exhaust???
Any tips to remove exhaust bolts on these cars ive broke them on previous vehicles trying to avoid that this time. Im getting the catalyst deficiency code with my car and im trying to right it by putting on some str8 through down pipes off my factory manifolds since i cant afford headers now.
^^ You're probably going to have to break them off, or drill them out. Rust is not friendly to exhausts.
Try soaking it with PB Blaster every day for a few days before the job. You may have some luck.
Try soaking it with PB Blaster every day for a few days before the job. You may have some luck.
Brake light and battery light keeps flickering on and of. Changed alternator, alternator belt, new battery. When the belt was changed the flicker stopped for a few days, now it started flickering again. I noticed when I accelerate, it happens. Can someone please help me figure out whats wrong?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5
Hi everyone,
I have 2002 Max SE with about 170k miles.
Recently had the alternator replaced. Since then it has had some idle issues like it dying if I didn't give it some gas.
Then the last couple days it's barely started at all. It's cranking and turning over and if I give it some gas it sometimes starts but it takes forever and once even killed the battery.
1. I've read on here I may need to clean the IAC Valve, but I can't find it. And could the IAC valve get bad enough that the car wouldn't start at all or do I have a different issue?
2. Also read on here that I should check the vacuum hoses. Well there is one that seems to be unattached, but its not clear to me what it should attach to! I'll link to some pics of it; it's right in the middle of the pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
Thanks!
I have 2002 Max SE with about 170k miles.
Recently had the alternator replaced. Since then it has had some idle issues like it dying if I didn't give it some gas.
Then the last couple days it's barely started at all. It's cranking and turning over and if I give it some gas it sometimes starts but it takes forever and once even killed the battery.
1. I've read on here I may need to clean the IAC Valve, but I can't find it. And could the IAC valve get bad enough that the car wouldn't start at all or do I have a different issue?
2. Also read on here that I should check the vacuum hoses. Well there is one that seems to be unattached, but its not clear to me what it should attach to! I'll link to some pics of it; it's right in the middle of the pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
Thanks!
Last edited by ronrule; Oct 15, 2011 at 10:47 AM.
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 261
From: Lubbock, Texas
I was recently doing some work under the front seats of my car, and I noticed there was wiring going into the seats. I know the front driver seat has an electric positioning thing, but the passenger seat has no electronic components.
Could this be for heated seats? I've seen OEM switches on eBay, so could this possibly just be a plug-and-play thing if I get the switches?
Could this be for heated seats? I've seen OEM switches on eBay, so could this possibly just be a plug-and-play thing if I get the switches?
Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 261
From: Lubbock, Texas
Hi everyone,
I have 2002 Max SE with about 170k miles.
Recently had the alternator replaced. Since then it has had some idle issues like it dying if I didn't give it some gas.
Then the last couple days it's barely started at all. It's cranking and turning over and if I give it some gas it sometimes starts but it takes forever and once even killed the battery.
1. I've read on here I may to clean the IAC Valve, but I can't find it. And could the IAC valve get bad enough that the car wouldn't start at all or do I have a different issue?
2. Also read on here that I should check the vacuum hoses. Well there is one that seems to be unattached, but its not clear to me what it should attach to! I'll link to some pics of it; it's right in the middle of the pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
Thanks!
I have 2002 Max SE with about 170k miles.
Recently had the alternator replaced. Since then it has had some idle issues like it dying if I didn't give it some gas.
Then the last couple days it's barely started at all. It's cranking and turning over and if I give it some gas it sometimes starts but it takes forever and once even killed the battery.
1. I've read on here I may to clean the IAC Valve, but I can't find it. And could the IAC valve get bad enough that the car wouldn't start at all or do I have a different issue?
2. Also read on here that I should check the vacuum hoses. Well there is one that seems to be unattached, but its not clear to me what it should attach to! I'll link to some pics of it; it's right in the middle of the pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
Thanks!
Hi everyone,
I have 2002 Max SE with about 170k miles.
Recently had the alternator replaced. Since then it has had some idle issues like it dying if I didn't give it some gas.
Then the last couple days it's barely started at all. It's cranking and turning over and if I give it some gas it sometimes starts but it takes forever and once even killed the battery.
1. I've read on here I may need to clean the IAC Valve, but I can't find it. And could the IAC valve get bad enough that the car wouldn't start at all or do I have a different issue?
2. Also read on here that I should check the vacuum hoses. Well there is one that seems to be unattached, but its not clear to me what it should attach to! I'll link to some pics of it; it's right in the middle of the pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
Thanks!
I have 2002 Max SE with about 170k miles.
Recently had the alternator replaced. Since then it has had some idle issues like it dying if I didn't give it some gas.
Then the last couple days it's barely started at all. It's cranking and turning over and if I give it some gas it sometimes starts but it takes forever and once even killed the battery.
1. I've read on here I may need to clean the IAC Valve, but I can't find it. And could the IAC valve get bad enough that the car wouldn't start at all or do I have a different issue?
2. Also read on here that I should check the vacuum hoses. Well there is one that seems to be unattached, but its not clear to me what it should attach to! I'll link to some pics of it; it's right in the middle of the pics.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
Thanks!
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 10
From: Tomball TX
Any tips to remove exhaust bolts on these cars ive broke them on previous vehicles trying to avoid that this time. Im getting the catalyst deficiency code with my car and im trying to right it by putting on some str8 through down pipes off my factory manifolds since i cant afford headers now.
There's some great stuff called Kroil. It's a penetrating oil. Put some on and let it soak into the threads. I'm not sure if it will work for you in this case, as I have not done this, but it might help. I have used it with other stuck threads and it has worked well but you need to let it sit a while.
I know it's used in gun applications and I got mine at midwayusa.com if you have trouble finding it elsewhere.
Good luck.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,767
From: Moore, OK
Many options.
Take a look here:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-thread.html
I got a 2000 Maxmia SE and the stereo is crap. Volume wont go up or down and it wont play CD's and I dont own any tapes :|
Going to Walmart, Autozone and O'Reilly I could only find dash installs for anything up to 99 and 2001 and above. If I did find one for a 2000 it said for non bose cars on it. can somebody post a link or send me in the right direction to get a dash install so I an get another radio.
Going to Walmart, Autozone and O'Reilly I could only find dash installs for anything up to 99 and 2001 and above. If I did find one for a 2000 it said for non bose cars on it. can somebody post a link or send me in the right direction to get a dash install so I an get another radio.
