The dashboards are the same for 2000 to 2003, so any radio that fits any of the 5th gen years will fit your car. The only "catch" is that if your car has a Bose system, you either have to change the speakers or get line balancing devices in order to use the Bose speakers.

Try reading our Audio And Electronics thread, it probably has the exact info you are looking for.

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-electronics-21/

 

Thanks Dennis I appreciate it.

 

In my '00 SE, there's a loud knocking coming from my rear wheels whenever I go over uneven surfaces on the road. It sounds like a clunk knocking back and forth.
My guess is something to do with the springs?

Need some help.. Thanks!

 

Maybe. It could also be the exhaust system. Try pushing on the exhaust system and see it it hits anything. The exhaust system is hung on giant rubberbands, so it will move some, but maybe an elastic hanger is broken or missing.

If it is a spring or strut, try bouncing the car and see if the noise happens.

 

I am attempting to replace my upper intake manifold gasket. I have the front bolts off, the throttle body removed, and I think I can lift the manifold enough to put in the gasket without removing the vacuum hoses but I can't get the back two bracket bolts. From feeling them with my finger I am pretty sure they are 10mm but there doesn't seem to be any room to get a socket on. Does anyone have a suggestion or experience with this?

 

PM me and I'll help you out with this.

 

It's either suspension or exhaust. As mentioned, bounce the car to see if it's suspension. If not, it could be the hanger bracket rusted off. Take it to a muffler shop, spot them a couple bucks and they can weld it back on.

 

I have a very strange issue with my car alarm. I have a stock 2003 Maxima GLE car alarm, and a couple of days ago I lost the key and remote fob when I was helping my friend on an old yacht he got (don't ask lol).

Anyway, I got a guy I know in the city to duplicate the key and chip from my second key I had at home and he also hooked me up with a used remote fob. The FCC ID# matches the standard one for my maxima and year and it's a 4 button remote, it also came with instructions on how to program it. I followed the directions, and it all worked smoothly. The new remote lock and unlocks the doors, unlocks the trunk, and the panic button makes the alarm go off, also just as it should, when I press lock the car beeps and the security light by the clock starts flashing, so seemingly all perfect.

However, here is the issue, for some reason, before I lost my old remote, unless I deactivated my alarm on the remote first it would go off even if I used my key to open the car door, and especially if I would unlock my car through an open window (without turning alarm off first). However, now even after I lock my car with the new programmed remote fob and it makes the beep sound and everything, EVEN if I reach in and open the door through an open window the alarm stays silent.

Any ideas guys?!?!

 

The alarm won't arm until about 1 minute goes by. That can seem like a long time if you are standing outside it testing it out.

 

how to you embed Youtube videos in a post? I'm trying to post my DYNO run videos but HTML not working......I've seen other people do this.

 

[ youtube ] link [ \youtube] without the spaces.

 

Dont work......all I get is text....

 

My bad.

Reverse the slash

[ youtube] link [/youtube]

Also, don't post the whole youtube link. Post just the letters and #'s after the = sign.

Example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kz1dn5OqZho

you would type [youtube]Kz1dn5OqZho[ /youtube] (no spaces)

 

LOLOLOLOLOL! Midget dance off!! Nice example. Thanks, you the man!

 

Update: I replaced all 6 coils last Tuesday. Car has been running smooth since then. No missfires (or at least I couldn't tell). I did not reset SES light.

Today I pulled the codes and I have P1320, P0306, P1320. Hmmm. I reset the SES light but it came on after I restarted the car.

However, I can't tell if the car is missfiring as it's running smooth.

What do I check/test next? I thought I had this issue licked. Damn! BTW, Thanks for all the help so far.

 

Those are still misfire codes, 1320 being generic, and P1306 being for cylinder 6.

Check the wiring to the coils, make sure those connectors are clean, seated correctly, and no wires are mashed.

Check your ground wire - it's funny where that sort of stuff will show up.

Last resort, pull plugs, perhaps replace them. Advance Auto sells the Denso Platinum+'s, the OEM spec, for something like $2.99 when I looked last week.
Link: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_PK20TT-Platinum-TT-Spark-Plug-Denso_11010036-P_960_R|GRPTUNEAMS_1740616644____BBV#fragment-2

 

Thanks. I'll check the wires. Which ground wire should I be checking. ?

I already changed the spark plugs with the NGK Iridium Ix (2 weeks before changing the coils). I don't need to change them again, do I?

 

You should not have to unless the one on cyl 6 is bad or screwed up somehow.

The main ground wire to check is the one from your battery that goes to the body and the engine, and make sure that's clean and not in any way problematic. A bad ground causes all sorts of electronic gremlins to come out to play.

 

Okay Guys,

I'm slowly whittling away my codes but got a few more to go. I replaced my cyl 6 coil and got rid of the miss my 2001 I30 had (stock, Cali spec, 137k mi). I read I needed to reset the computer so I disconnected the battery for a few minutes. Now the car starts hard and occasionally has an erratic idle after start up for a couple seconds. I had the car scanned again and have the following codes:
P0138 - bank 1 sensor 2
P0139 - bank 1 sensor 2
P0160 - bank 2 sensor 2

I was hoping the bad coil was causing the O2 faults but guess not. Why is there 2 codes for what appears to be the same sensor? I have an exhaust leak from a bad gasket where the mid pipe connects just behind the pass rear wheel. Could that cause an O2 fault? Finally, what side is bank 1/2 and where is sensor 2? Is the left side of the engine the radiator side? Is sensor 2 before/after the cat?

Thanks a ton in advance. This site and its members have been a tremendous help in diagnosing everything on my car.

Slim

 

Hey guys,

I'm new to the forums but not new to Maximas. i had a 2002 SE 6spd from 02-09 and had to sell it when I fell on hard times. I bought another 2002 GLE last week and had some questions and would appreciate your expert opinions. Thanks in advance.

1. I want to change out the stock hu as I'm experiencing the issue where the left side speakers cut in and out. i saw the link on the forums about fixing this with the ribbon cable but don't think that is worth the time/money. I am looking to get a JVC KW-AVX740. One of the deciding factors on this hu is that it has an adapter to incorporate the steering wheel controls. My question is that I've heard (not sure the validity of this statement) that the Bose speakers are designed in a system that makes aftermarket items not work well with them. Can I replace just the HU and still be able to have full functionality on all the other speakers and sub? I know I would lose the 6cd changer int he dash but i'll have blue tooth on the hu and can connect my droid X to it anyway.

2. I want to put an OEM spoiler with light on the back. i already have a hookup at an autobody place who will paint and install for me. I was just wondering where i can get the best deal on the spoiler. Good quality for a good price. I've found one for $58 and one for $166. Both say they are OEM replacements. Why would there be such a price discrepancy?

3. I'm looking to do a tune up and would like to know if i need to replace the ignition coils (as you would when replacing wires on older cars). What kinds of things should I do in a standard tune up? The engine is idling kind of rough but not all the time. It'll be smooth for a few seconds or so then idle rough for a few seconds. I figured the first place to start would be a tune up. Any suggestions/advice is greatly appreciated.

4. There is an exhaust leak at the muffler. My mechanic said i'd need to replace the muffler. Any suggestions on factory mufflers to get that will give it the factory sound? I am past my fast and furious days and really liked the way my old maxima sounded straight off the lot.

I think that is it for now. i have a million questions but don't want to overwhelm anyone in my first post. i appreciate any feedback you all might have for me.

~Chris

 

Congrats and welcome! Where ya located?

1. You can replace the HU and keep the Bose system. You just need to wire it using a Metra 70-7551 rather than the standard 70-7550. You can also keep your steering wheel controls - using an interface module. Purchase the Axxess ASWC.

I'll leave the rest of the answers up to others.

 

Sweet, thanks for the quick response. I live in northern VA about 15 minutes west of DC.

Probably dumb questions but the metra 70-7551 is a wiring harnes i assume? And for the steering wheel controls, i was just going to get whatever crutchfield has but i can research and get the one you suggest. I assume all of this is easy enough to do myself? i've replaced HU and speakers and subs and such in an older Eclipse and some other older cars as well.

EDIT: Just checked Crutchfield and they offer the Axxess ASWC for $70 so that works out perfectly.

 

Yes, it's a wiring harness

Axxess ASWC is the best steering wheel interface I've used - and I install a lot of radios.

Crutchfield may suggest a PAC unit - but for ease of install and ease of programming, Axxess is the best.

$70 is a ripoff. $40 off eBay or Amazon.

 

I paid $70 + tax for my Axxess but I'm glad I installed it.

Question though: When I use the station buttons on the steering wheel, it acts in scan mode. I want it to change to my next/previous preset station. Is there any way to do this? I have reset & auto programmed it a few times, but I can't get it to do so. TIA

 

There is definitely a way to do it - but I don't have a manual with me.

Call them up, the phone support is excellent.

 

Thanks, appreciate it.

 

I ended up getting the JVC KW-AVX740 for $336, the Metra 70-7551 for $12 and the Axxess ASWC for $41. Total with shipping was less than $400.

Thanks for the advice =)

 

Hey i just recently bought a 2000 maxima se and i want to 'smoke' the tail lights however after i take all of the 8mm bolts off and the wiring harness the light wont come out. any advise?

 

There are 4 nuts in total (I think). The reason the tail light assemblies don't come out is that the caulking used to seal them to the body to prevent water leaks is acting like a glue. You just have to pry, pound and swear.

And when you put them back on, get some sealer like windshield sealer. The original stuff will be gooey and sticky as hell but the tail light will probably leak.

 

hey thanks never thought about the window sealer idea. and trust me there has already been allot of swearing done during all of this

 

Lol, please dont pry or pound. Everything is plastic. I had to push really hard from the inside of the trunk to release the taillight from the sealant. Work from one side to the other.

 

Wow man, you are a genius and a true professional! Thank you! I think it that's one of the qualities of a professional - to find that the solution to the problem might be the simplest thing.

My alarm is all good!

Anyway to give you like "rep points" or somtin?

 

Heat also helps to soften the butyl. Hairdryer or heat gun - but be careful with a heat gun.

 

I didn't have to heat mine to remove them - the stuff back there is a lot softer and gooey that cold butyl. But you can't just "pop them out" with a hard push. Just use steady pressure and go slowly (think of it like pulling your feet out of deep, super thick mud). I started mine out with a screwdriver (wrapped in a towel) from the corner inside the trunk lip, then proceeded by hand.

As suggested above, remember to work both sides evenly - and put some protective stuff around your bumper and surrounding areas - that goo gets all over the place quick.

 

Anyone? Searching gets me partial answers or maybe I'm just overlooking the obvious?

 

Glad that was the issue. I don't think they have rep points here, but I'm just glad to help.

 

Question.
When i was replacing the clutch, i forgot to replace the pilot bearing.
How screwed i am?

 

I didn't say it was a requirement, just that it helps.

 

Anywhere from not at all to big time. There's no way to predict how long a bearing will last.

 

Found out that my car doesn't have an IAC valve, just an electronic throttle body that does the job.

1. Could a dirty throttle body cause the car to crank but rarely start?
2. If not, what else is likely causing the problem?