arkangelgabriel

Got another quick question. Moog inner tie rods came without the lock washer thing (dont know thr name) can i reuse the old ones?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

When unable to describe, a picture is worth a thousand words...

arkangelgabriel

My bad. Let me explain since i havent taken the front end apart yet. Wanna know before i do cause i dont have a spare car right now and wont be able to make a run to the part store. Ok so if you lookinga at a inner tie rod its a spacer that looks just like s flat washer that goes in bettween the rack and pinnion and that end of the tie rod. also...dont know how to post pics

arkangelgabriel

Ok so got the name of the instruccions. its called locking plate. it says new tie rod uses a thread lock compound. came with the tie rod! so no locking plate need it

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

That was easy.

Classic case of RTFM

arkangelgabriel

For real. Thats thr first thing i shloul have done! Thx anyways!

chw_21

I'm assuming TCS stands for traction control system. Why is it that I have a button on my dash that says "TCS Off" and when I press it in, it does absolutely nothing...? I wanna burn some rubber.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

A light should illuminate on your dash when you press the button to turn it off. Might want to make sure the bulb isn't burned out.

chw_21

Any EASY way to check that?? And is there a fuse or something i should check?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

No, there is no way a fuse will tell you if one single bulb is burned out.

RLDWV2003

Several weeks back I posted about my 2002 GLE busting it's radiator and overheating. The mechanic (after installing a new radiator), after letting it warm up, heard a sound in the engine and told me that I'd probably bend a rod or slipped a bearing. I'd figured the engine was shot. It's sat in his lot fror many weeks now until today. I got the car and drove it about 10 miles home, reaching speeds up to about 50. No issues at all, engine ran smooth, temps normal, etc.

So, here's the kicker - how do I know if there's really a bent rod or slipped bearing? Would something have tipped-me off on the ride home if that was the case? Or was I just really lucky? Any/all input is appreciated in advance. Thanks!

Bob

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

A spun bearing or a rod issue would almost undoubtedly have presented itself as an issue during your drive, if not immediately after startup. If you hear no abnormal noises, I'd call it good for now. While possible to have an intermittent noise from a physical issue, in most cases the noise will always be there.

arkangelgabriel

So finally got my front end worked up. Getting an aligment now. Gotta say moog is a rougher ride than expected. Love it! Just wanted to share in case anyone is planning to replace inner tie rods. Do not rent the tool from autozone, actually the tool itself ( the long tube) is goood the problem is they only have one socket. And its to big...after waisting coupla hours finally found the right tool at oraillys auto parts. Second fsbl were rusted out...had to cut them but had no blow torch till today i borroed one.

Thank you so much for te help you all and thank you for having patient with me as well

Good day

RLDWV2003

Is it worth taking it to Nissan to let them listen, or am I asking to put someone's kid through college?

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

got a quick question, just bought a 01 max and previous owner debadged everything on the rear trunk, how do i know i have a SE, GLE, or GXE???

Would the vin number tell me?

here some spec of the car to help you guys trim it down alittle bit!!
-Cloth seats
-manual heater controls
-i believe i don't have an lsd tranny (so not an SE i believe??)
-manual transmission
-tail-lights are the black housing one
-no sun roof/moon roof?
-seats are not heated/nor power slide
-no heated mirrors or heated steering wheel

anyways help would be appreciated!!

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

Vin number can tell you, I just dont know how.

I think you have an SE, but...There is always a chance that the owner added the black tail lights. What color are your interior door handles? What type of wheels? Or you can measure your sway bar and let us know

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I can tell you from the VIN, if you have it handy. Otherwise, just post the 5th letter of the body code.

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

^ thanks for the quick reply, about the interior door handles im not sure, probbly just grey like my cloth seats, and yeah forgot about the wheels, i got the "5 star" blade ones, 16 inch...and mearsureing the sway bar might be a couple days late as right now its raining in the middle of dec. (where i live in wis. should be snow instead but NOPE not a layer of snow fallen yet)

allornothing

Wow, I had an O2 sensor trigger an SES, turns out Bank 1, Sensor 2, parts guy at nissan store said he thinks it's part number 226a0-4L713, price blew me away $195.83 is that what these cost? This is going to be one expensive car to maintain.

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

You probably have an SE since GXE and GLE's had chrome handles.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Typo on your part number?

Try www.nissanpartsasap.com

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes, B1S2 part number is 226A0-4L713. Courtesy price $151.58

Get a good quality aftermarket brand for much cheaper, and you'll be fine. Keep in mind that just because there's a code for the B1S2 sensor, it doesn't necessarily indicate that the sensor itself is faulty.

Any car is expensive to maintain if you buy nothing but OE parts from the dealer.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Are you talking about interior or exterior?

I have a GXE. My interior handles are black, exterior are chrome.

allornothing

I hear you on being expensive to maintain using OEM part, but from what I've read on here, O2 sensors are one of the items that OEM is recommended.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Beg to differ...just don't get a cheap one.

RLDWV2003

Is it possible that I just burned the oil badly and that clicking sound is related to that, like a valve lifter? If so, what's the best way to flush/clean the burned oil out, other than pour several quarts of oil through it (straight out the drain plug)?

arkangelgabriel

i know of a quick way to know about your oil being burned or thinned. pull your oil dipstick and keep it vertically. if it drops quick then yeah its burned and thinned. and also the color. i change my oil before 3000 miles (full synthetic) and never gets dark black.

i know they sell something at the auto parts store called engine flush. i have different opinions on it. some say its good other don't. so i go with don't lol.

I did read a thread about engine making noise because of the motor oil. if that is your case get an oil change and run it verifying whether the noise is there or gone. that's all i know about that! hope it helps

imported_Nismo_max

iTrader: (5)

sure my vin is JN1CA31D51T834586

oh, ok but another note, does that mean i should have a LSD tranny?

RLDWV2003

Thanks. I know it overheated pretty badly, and I had to drive it about a half mile or so to get it to a safe spot to pull off the interstate. I guess the oil change is chump change at this point compared to going forward with an engine pull. I'd heard of some people flushing engines with kerosene and giving the engine a few cranks with the coil wire removed, but that process sounded kind of dicy to me.

RLDWV2003

And of course, while it was sitting in the back lot of the repair shop, my remaining gas was stolen ;-( I hope somebody got a mouth full.

arkangelgabriel

Wow i wouldt go back to that shop ever lol you could do a not so expensive oil change. Over here autozone had a deal of castrol edge full synthetic and k & n oil filter for 32 bucks.

On the engine oil flush what i heard is that it does work but itd not good for the seals...so thats why rather not.

When your car overheated, how bad was it? Did the needle went all the way up?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

SE model.



No, the only USDM 5th gen to have a VLSD trans was the AE model.

RLDWV2003

It did eventually, but as soon as it did I pulled the car over and turned the ignition off. So, I think the general concensus here is that if I HAD damaged the engine when it overheated, the car would not have made the 50+MPH 10 mile drive home, correct?

BlackHawk3G

like allot of other people with a 5th gen I have the foglights wired so i can run without the headlight on, i was wondering can i wire it so once it gets dark and the light sensor reads its dark it will turn on my headlights without me having to switch it manually? is this possible has it been done before?

arkangelgabriel

Yes. I definally agree with pmohr on that. The car would have definally showed noticeable. And as he also said if the car is running good now then dont fight that lol. Now what you saif about the engine oil being burned up cause of the overheating i doubt it since it is desine to withstand high temtetures. but like we discused before might be better to change it just .to be better safe than sorry. just keep watch on the temp needle all the time in case it ever overheats again the needle doesnt reach all the hot.

RLDWV2003

Good advice. I'll be watching it closely after I change the oil and start with short trips first. Thanks!

Cutthroat

iTrader: (4)

I need a little help, I have a 02 Maxima SE. Here in the past few weeks the drivers window has been rolling up real slow like the motor was getting weak and just yesterday it stopped completely about 4 in from the top. Is there a way to manually move window up ? Also Is changing the window motor a DIY job ?
Thanks for any help !

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

If you pull and disconnect the window switch, you can manually apply power to the window motor on the blue wire (pin 2) and ground on the green wire (pin 3). Normally if the motor has failed, this wouldn't do anything, but an uncommon trick I've learned is to hook up two batteries in series, and apply 24v to the window motor. This works more often than not.

If that doesn't work, pull the door panel and you have a few choices. You could unbolt the window glass from the regulator, move it all the way up, and chock it up with a piece of rubber or something between the glass and the inner door frame. You could also pull the window motor, move the window all the way up, then reinstall the window motor (leaving it unplugged).

Replacing a window motor is definitely a DIY job. Pull the door panel, pull the regulator out (assuming the motor bolts are facing the inside of the door, I haven't done a 5.5 in forever. If they're facing out, you shouldn't even have to pull the regulator), then swap out the motor. I've got a regulator vid here, for the 4th gen but things should be somewhat similar.

Cutthroat

iTrader: (4)

I appreciate it that helped me quite a bit, I just picked up a 01 20th anniversary edition that was hit in the front driver side, I will get the window motor and a few other things I need then part the rest out.

randalk

alright, i am not exactly new here but here it goes. while doing some online shopping this fine holiday season, i came across somthing on ebay theat really got me thinking. a universal wet nitrous kit. for 325 bucks and minimal labor, it really seems like the way to go for that little bit of power i want. i feel like i have a pretty good idea of what i will need to do to get spraying, but im not sure if i have all the details, so let me know if im missing any thing.
1. 12v power to operate system
2. mount the bottle
3. run the line from bottle to the engine bay
4. a place to put the nozzle (where?)
5. wire the switch/button
i feel like im missing somthing though, please fill me in if i am.
i was also wondering how long a 10 lb bottle is going to last/cost to fill
Thank you