96Impala

hhmmm...I'll give it a check, however I'm not convinced that is our issue, The car ran fine when we parked it and then over night it won't start. If it was a bad ground it wouldn't it have run rough for a awhile before complete failure?


EDIT: Just called the dealership and my car isn't on the recall list for the crank and cam sensors, however I do believe that might be the issue.

Any thoughts, comments?

gvulakh

Mine ran very smooth and nice for about 24 hours into ownership. On a quick ride to the convenience store it ran terrible, bucking and limping to the store. Got back in the car and it ran perfect again on the 5 minute trip home.....the next morning no start and all the same symptoms as you....

SaltyMax

Getting p1320 error. I know of the possibilities crank/cam sensors and or coils. I picked up the error and my scan tool picked up 4th coil, replaced and a 2 months later got the error again. I was running smooth with the error on dash untill I installed a SRI, ghetto adapter, fujita high flow filter. Now I get a rough idle,acceleration,and cruising speeds. I reinstalled the stock air box and still running rough. Spark plugs were changed out a couple months ago with bosch irridiums. My scan tool is picking up the same p1320 ditributor sig error i believe was the message. I cleaned the MAF with proper cleaner and still hasnt smoothed out. Not sure where to go from here gotta get this fixed before it gets too snowy. thanks for any help

96Impala

Well I it turns out my spare key was the problem. I lost the original so I was using the spare and it wasn't programed to the car (I don't know why its the original spare from when I bought it) so the car wouldn't start because it didnt recognize the key. I found the original key and cleared the codes and it started.

Frank LLanes

I have a 97 maxima with 3.0 V6 engine, manual transmission with many miles someone is offering a much less used engine from a 2000 maxima that he says also has a 3.0 V6 engine, can I install it in the 97 ? does it fit directly or require adaptations?

fje_A33

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2000 maxima in gray shape but it's wasting coolant I think one of the heads is cracked. I was wondering if it's better to rebuilt the VQ30 or swap it for a VQ35? If a VQ35 were can I find one thanks

MrWilson44

I tried to go to autozone today, but it was raining and they said they don't come out to read codes when its raining , but im just gonna go back tomorrow because I didnt feel like arguing.

arkangelgabriel

Check your fuses and releays first. There was somebody with crank but no starting problem here turned out to be a fuse to the engine module blown i believe. go back 2 or 3 pages and you will see the posts

arkangelgabriel

They should give u a paper with all the codes the scanner picks up but if not make sure you write them down. If maf sensor is bad is most prob not going to throw u a code for it. And what else is exaclty the car doing? Is it just giving you problems ar startup or while you driving to?

arkangelgabriel

When u say waisting dp u mean leaking? Or going to the engine oil? Howd u come up with your conclusion?

fje_A33

iTrader: (1)

Is going to the engine oil. About once a month I have to fill the reservoir tank, I don't drive it that much and there is no puddle under the car.

arkangelgabriel

Wow first time i hear that on a maxima. As far as i know is basically the same engine with manifold intake and other mods. I have heard of people putting a 3.5 5.5 gen in their 4th gen max so might be a better opton for you so you might wanna look into that

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The radiators in these cars have a tendency to leak where the plastic top tank meets the aluminum core especially under the upper radiator hose. If the leak is small enough, the coolant evaporates before it has a chance to hit the ground. Inspect the radiator carefully. It will look like there is whitish stuff where the plastic and aluminum meet. If the leak is big enough to spray out, the engine will look like you went through a mud puddle. If you get the cooling system pressure tested, it will be easier to tell.

Swapping the engine adds it own set of headaches. With the pollution controls being different each year and the California/Federal standards being different for each year, you may have a constant check engine light until you figure it out. Putting in a 3.5 engine will have the most problems. You should the threads on doing a 3.5 engine swap.

arkangelgabriel

I was talking power wise with the 3.5. For what i have read in all the threads the 5th gen 3.0 seems to be better im terms of reliabilty and durability. In a personal opinion i had heard they were good but im still amaze how good my car runs with 188k. And i like to push it sometimes.

tseng1023

iTrader: (9)

Do '00 and '01 maximas both have 2y0001 MAF sensors?

Amber7301

Hello Everyone, I am new here so please bare with me as I learn all the rules and what not!

I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima and recently when I start the car in the mornings when it's cold it makes a weird noise, not really sure how to describe it but it's like "wuuiiiiiiiii", it only happens the first start of the day. Also the car dirves perfectly it's so smooth and a wonderful ride but when I come to a stop and/or put the car in neutral it will die. This morning it got a little worse as when I started it died right away and then I started it again and it was fine but now the RPM is really high. What do you think it could be? Maybe the idol air control or crank sensor? I tried to read a little about it and it seemed to me that those might be the problem but I have no idea! I just want to know what I'm talking about a little bit before I take it to a shop so they don't over charge me for something. Please any help would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU.

Amber

arkangelgabriel

Amber you could record the engine when you start the car cold and post the video then post the link so we can hear the sound. Cause "weeeiiii" could be a number or things. From a simple loose drive belt to tensioner pully going bad to steering pump related. However im not able to diagnost but some of the guys here with more knowledge and experience might be ablr to help you.

The weeiii noise could be related to the dying one. could be a vacum leak on your maf system. How many miles does your car have?

TheDude00

So my mechanic told me I need to replace my front struts and he mentioned something called "quick struts" that have the spring, struts, and all the other little pieces all in one pre-assembled so all I would have to do is drop the current ones out and bolt these on. Do they exists? I can't find any at any local parts stores. Please if any knows if "quick struts," or maybe they are called coil overs, can be bought I need them.
Thank you for all the help.

arkangelgabriel

First time i hear quick struts. I just replace almost all my front end and i didnt change the sprjng coils since they still good. Do u wanna change your struts because they are worn out or there is another reason?

Amber7301

Thanks for responding! My car has 134,xxx miles. I will try my best to record the sound. I guess that doesn't bother me so much as the car actually dying when I shift it into neutral or come to a stop. Do you think that they are related issues or two different ones? Thanks again, I really appreciate it!

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

Amber, possibly two issues 1. the start up noise, possible the CPS (crank position sensor) and 2. the car dieing, possibly cause by one of the Cam sensors. there was a recall notice on the engine just shutting down as a result of faulty Cam sensor.

Check with your local dealership by giving them your vin number to see if your car was one in the recall notice way back when it was issued. Just a couple of items to check into first, but the car shutting down after all the threads that I have read tends to point at the cam sensors.

arkangelgabriel

Yes the video would help a lot since "weeiii" is not much lol. And yes it coulf be related as if it was a vacum on the maf system would make the sound and kill the car when stoped. But like i mentioned before it could be many other things and i cant really give u and acirate diagnostic not untill a video of it. Could also be the iddle control sensor but kust a thpught.

TheDude00

They are worn out and he told me he was going to get quick struts and install them since they were faster and would also replace the worn out bearing plate I have. I really don't wanna deal with compressing the spring.

arkangelgabriel

Gotcha. My coils and bearings were in very good shape so i just did the struts. Compressing the spring wasnt hard at all (with the right tool. Bought the red one from harbor freight.) also find out what brand for the purpose. I put kyb struts without knowing it would make a stiffer ridr. For me is wonderfull sinse i like the sportier ride rather than confort. I hear monrow is good for confort

Hawkeyes10

I've got a 2000 Maxima. When I accelerate, I hear a rattle coming from the front end around 2000 - 2500 rpm. Anyone know what could be causing this noise? Also, I was wondering if anyone uses any fuel additives to clean out their engines and I was wondering what kind of oil you guys use if you use anything special like synthetic or high mileage oil. I just inherited the car and want to get as many years out of it as I can.

Thanks.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

You should try to only put premium gas in there. Usually when you put regular grade gas in you will get a rattle from the valves knocking I believe. My dads 5th gen does the same thing. I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil because it is a true grade 5 oil and it is available at walmart for a good price. Putting quality fluids in your car is very important.

arkangelgabriel

Very much agree with shocknawe there. 5th gen take regular gas but it is recommended by the manufacturer to put premium (octane 93) i personally pump shell v power. Althou when i did pump regular gad in it i never got valve knocking. I noticed an improvement in performance. And same with full synthetic, its recommended. Check out autozone for specials. My last two oil changes i got a galon of castrol edge full syntetic and a k & n oil filter for 32 bucks

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

I used to use castrol synthetic until I found out they arent grade 5 and they can call there oil "synthetic" through a legal loop hole. good read here http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/m...son/index.html

arkangelgabriel

Wow nice piece of info. So u definally recommend mobile1 then?

IntegraEater

Lol what's wrong with the Anni edition? I think it's quite pimpin in fact, and she seems to sit nicer than every other 5th gen I pull up beside.

Soo, anyway I guess the general consensus is that I'm getting ahead of myself with the 400+ whp ambitions .. lol. Well, maybe so .. but I'm still not really sure what something like that would cost me. I don't mind spending money to go fast if I can get THAT kind of power out of my Maxima .. up to about $7k (max) initial investment .. to setup a turbo and/or whatever else (engine swap?) to increase longevity. If it would cost more than that then it wouldn't really be worth it ..

I don't know anything, and could be very mistaken, but from what I've gathered, it was seeming to me like 400+ whp might be doable for $4-5k or so, which is why I asked .. cuz that sounded like a decent deal to me.

Due to not knowing anything, I would be paying for labor .. which I can probably get a good deal on.

So is it all a pipe dream or what?

arkangelgabriel

Sounds like not so much of a dream. I have a friend with a 450 hp 240! So your 400 hp max is just around the corner. Plus you dont need to know everything, just the basics since you wont be doing it yourself.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

To start off, there is no '02 AE.

Yes, it's basically a pipe dream. A custom turbo setup done by a reputable and decent shop will likely cost you over $7k and take quite a bit of time to get done. Most people underestimate the amount of labor involved in custom fabrication, not to mention the cost of a proper EMS and tuning.

You also have to take into account downtime down the road, parts and labor costs for things that will break due to the substantially higher than OEM power levels.

It really seems like you're just shooting for numbers that look good, and a turbo setup 'just because'. Get some bolt ons, be happy with an NA 250WHP.

IntegraEater

O .. I see. Well it says SE on the back, and it has chrome Nissan rims, and a spoiler. I've never seen these rims on any other '02 SE. The dude who sold it to me posted the ad as "Anniv. Edition".. I dunno .. The car does look unique I've honestly never seen a 5.5 like it .. I should put up some pics.

Anyway Thanks for the input. I thought I could purchase/install a turbo kit and parts which were already fabricated? Is there always custom fabrication involved?

And what exactly is meant by "bolt ons" ? .. sry .. #noob

And 250 whp is just a tease. I want MOAR

jason_10

Hi guys! I just acquired an A33 Cefiro with a VQ20 engine to replace my A32.

The A33 is in the shop now and won't start. Brought it there for a water pump replacement. The mechanic advised me to replace the tensioner as well. After installing back everything, the car won't start. There is normal sounding crank but won't turn. They scanned for codes and it turns out to be a broken Cam Sensor.

They replaced the Cam Sensor still no start. The sound now is like the engine has no compression.

They opened it up the side cover and found out that the tensioner bearing is a wrong part. The timing did not go off, still the same. They managed to reinstall my original tensioner bearing but will try to start the engine again tomorrow.

My question is what are the chances of damaging the valves due to the wrong tensioner?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Quick struts do not exist for the 5th gen.

Not to mention, Monroe struts are awful.

Where are you located? PM me, I can provide you with some better suspension info.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Titanium edition.

Yes, there is a LOT of fabrication involved. And the owner of a turbo'd car needs to understand cars because they require a SIGNIFICANT amount of maintenance. You don't have nearly enough knowledge. I wouldn't bother. Get some good bolt ons and call it a day. Going to cost you at least double the cost of the car.

You have what I call "new car ambition." Happens to the best of us. My advice to you is to READ READ READ as much as possible everywhere you can. LEARN about your car, then make an appropriate decision based on what is realistic, in your budget, and providing a worthwhile return in enjoyment. Arrive at your choice, don't make your choice then shoehorn the car in there.

IntegraEater

Cool man good stuff. If a turbo is gonna be that much hassle and cost +7k then yeah there's no way ....

Maybe I'll just get some rims and a paint job .. lol.

I'll do some more research and see what's good .........

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I don't know that the wrong tensioner would cause a problem but when changing the tensioner, it is somewhat easy to get the timing chain off a tooth. I don't think one tooth is a problem, 2 teeth????

SaltyMax

I fixed my issue, Thanks to bigfatty for the right up on coils got misfire on coil 2 , replaced, and now running Like hot butter so were thanks to no one for replyin ha jk I love maxima.org top site on the web! heres the reference link http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ow-w-pics.html

randalk

just finished reading thru 20 pages of OBX header write up, and still cant find the info i want. i cant seem to find OBX headers for sale on ebay for a 02-03. Were they discontinued? i dont wanna pay 600 for them on thier website. do headers from the 3.0 fit on 3.5s? im starting to lose my mind over this. i just want cheap headrs, help me.